BX2200 Do I really have to pull the engine to replace the radiator

[jbplaster]

Do I really have to pull the engine to replace the radiator on my BX2200?

I bought it used, with 1200 hours and it's been a great little tractor. Mostly used for mowing, but also light farm work in the winter when I remove the belly mower. Just last week, it overheated when my nephew was mowing. When I opened the hood, I saw that the black plastic top of the radiator had ruptured - there's about a 6" crack. Looking further, I found that the bracket that holds the alternator (dynamo?) and tensioning the fan belt, was broken, loosening the tension on the belt. So my theory is, that bracket broke, the fan stopped spinning, and the engine overheated, cracking the radiator.

I don't THINK there's any engine damage from overheating. My nephew shut it off as soon as he saw steam. And I cranked it right up several hours later and drove it back to the barn. But looking at that radiator, and reading online, I don't see how I can replace the radiator without pulling the engine.

Does anyone have experience with this same tractor? Also, any experience with aftermarket radiators? I can buy OEM from Messicks for about $500. Aftermarket is around $150. But if I have to pull the motor and aftermarket is only going to last a few years, I don't mind spending the money.

Any other thoughts? THANK YOU!

 

[Bee-Positive]

Hard to tell from just a parts diagram but it looks like once everything is disconnected from the radiator (hoses, reserve tank, etc.) the radiator stay (210) on top is the only thing holding it in. Hopefully there would be enough room to lift it up and out.

 

[jbplaster]

This is one of the earlier tractors, where the bottom flange of the radiator is wider than the shroud. See the second picture. My new strategy is to try to separate the shroud from the radiator and slide it forward. Hopefully this gives me room to slide the radiator out from behind it. I’ve seen some videos on later models, but the bottom flange of the radiator on this model complicates things.

Any other feedback on aftermarket radiators, etc? Does my theory track, that a basic overheated caused that big crack in the top of the radiator? That’s visible in the first picture.

Thank you!

 

[Bee-Positive]

Removing the shroud sounds like a reasonable option, hope it works. Looking at replacements I'd have no issues with an aftermarket. Found one for $46 - might stay away from that one.

I don't know if I would call this a "basic" overheating. You'll need to determine what caused the pressure to build up to the point of failure. My first guess would be a faulty radiator cap and I'd install a new one with the new radiator. You can go from there to check for other possible problems. I wouldn't just install a new radiator and assume you're good to go. Hopefully the heads not cracked. But one step at a time.

 

[lynnmor]

It might be possible to open the crimps holding the top tank and then replace it. Talk to a radiator shop.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It might be possible to open the crimps holding the top tank and then replace it. Talk to a radiator shop.

I don't know of a single radiator shop that will even touch a plastic and aluminum radiator.

 

[whitetiger]

Remove the alternator or dynamo, remove the 4 shroud bolts, and move the shroud towards the engine.
Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses from the radiator, and remove the 2 hairpin clips from the radiator mounting pegs below the support.
The radiator will pull up and out.