Looking for creative DIY ways to add weight to box blade

[trikepilot]

I want to add weights to my box blade to help it not "float" so much. I have pondered building a wood frame to hold solid concrete blocks. I have looked at used tractor suitcase weights to hang off back edge but these are way more expensive than you might think.

I cant be the only one to have thought this through. Has anyone out there found or developed a creative system to add weights to a box blade in an economical way?

- I'm not sure how much I need. Would 200lbs be adequate? Too much?
- It needs to be easy to put on/off and attach securely so it's not bounced off.

Surely some creative kubota owner has found a good solution.

 

[#40Fan]

Would a water tank that you could drain afterwards, work for you? Put a big enough tank and then you can add as much water as you'd need.

Edit to add: A 55 gallon barrel laying on its side where you could add water to the large plug and drain it out of the small plug. That should be easy to ratchet strap to the box blade.

 

[KKBL]

We just strap a log onto ours.

 

[Russell King]

Go to brake repair shop and see if they will give you enough rotors to suit your needs. Then put a pipe across the box blade that will support the rotors.

You could fab a few pipes sticking out towards the rear and angled upwards to then stack the rotors on those - a bit more elegant and easier to load weight onto.

 

[trikepilot]

All good ideas.

I know different situations call for different needed weights, but for those that do add weight to their box blade - how much weight is enough?

 

[jyoutz]

All good ideas.

I know different situations call for different needed weights, but for those that do add weight to their box blade - how much weight is enough?

As much as your 3ph can lift. LOL. Heavier is always better when it comes to blades. Concrete blocks are way too light.

 

[#40Fan]

As much as your 3ph can lift. LOL. Heavier is always better when it comes to blades. Concrete blocks are way too light.

That is what I'd do too.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Go to brake repair shop and see if they will give you enough rotors to suit your needs. Then put a pipe across the box blade that will support the rotors.

You could fab a few pipes sticking out towards the rear and angled upwards to then stack the rotors on those - a bit more elegant and easier to load weight onto.

+1 on this idea.

My 3/4 ton rotors are pretty heavy, so it wont take too many, and they have the advantage of being removed/added individually for a “custom fit” if necessary.

 

[Ping]

I added the ability to add up to an additional 340# to my box blade if needed.

 

[trikepilot]

I added the ability to add up to an additional 340# to my box blade if needed.
View attachment 177774

I have thought about this but CL and FBMP sellers are asking crazy prices for tractor-specific suitcase weights. I like this idea, though, as the weights would be easy on/off and secure along with the ability to put on more or less as needed. In my searches, I have stumbled upon sellers getting rid of 50lb barbell plates for WAY cheaper than tractor weights and that could be an option. I also like the idea of HD brake rotors and may hit up some local brake shops. Thanks guys - all good food for thought!

 

[Old Machinist]

I collected used barbell weights off CL and FB for a while. On CL if you have an account and are logged in you can save a search and set it to email you if something is posted that matches your key word. I ended up with over 300 lbs at a $40 investment over time.

This is a 6 ft that the 1" bar fit across just right. I welded it to the lateral supports and welded on some tabs to support both ends.



Later I notched the rear and added a couple of 100 lb suitcase weights. I lucked into those for $50 for the pair.



I let my daughter have this setup along with my old 4310 JD so I am working on another one now.

I bought a cheap 55" CAT0 boxblade that is pretty lightweight. I am going to convert it to CAT1 and weld some angle on it so I can bolt a 5ft job box on top. I plan to fill that with some patio blocks I have laying around. No pics to offer on that yet. Oh I got the steel job box off FB for $50.

 

[trikepilot]

I collected used barbell weights off CL and FB for a while. On CL if you have an account and are logged in you can save a search and set it to email you if something is posted that matches your key word. I ended up with over 300 lbs at a $40 investment over time.

This is a 6 ft that the 1" bar fit across just right. I welded it to the lateral supports and welded on some tabs to support both ends.

View attachment 177775

Later I notched the rear and added a couple of 100 lb suitcase weights. I lucked into those for $50 for the pair.

View attachment 177776

I let my daughter have this setup along with my old 4310 JD so I am working on another one now.

I bought a cheap 55" CAT0 boxblade that is pretty lightweight. I am going to convert it to CAT1 and weld some angle on it so I can bolt a 5ft job box on top. I plan to fill that with some patio blocks I have laying around. No pics to offer on that yet. Oh I got the steel job box off FB for $50.

NICE! thats what I am thinking about doing now. I am on the CL and FBMP sites all the time and use the search feature you mention. I have found all kinds of stuff on those sites and if you are patient (and a little lucky!) You can get some real steals!

Question... is the placement of the weights on the outboard ends of the BB coincidence or did you find that to be more effective?

 

[Old Machinist]

NICE! thats what I am thinking about doing now. I am on the CL and FBMP sites all the time and use the search feature you mention. I have found all kinds of stuff on those sites and if you are patient (and a little lucky!) You can get some real steals!

Question... is the placement of the weights on the outboard ends of the BB coincidence or did you find that to be more effective?

The outboard weights are where they mount on the bar. It has stops that prevent them from sliding inward. It all balances out by me welding the bar support in 4 spots.

Craigslist has a FREE category that people adhere to pretty well. FB listings abuse the category more so than not.

 

[Ping]

I have thought about this but CL and FBMP sellers are asking crazy prices for tractor-specific suitcase weights. I like this idea, though, as the weights would be easy on/off and secure along with the ability to put on more or less as needed. In my searches, I have stumbled upon sellers getting rid of 50lb barbell plates for WAY cheaper than tractor weights and that could be an option. I also like the idea of HD brake rotors and may hit up some local brake shops. Thanks guys - all good food for thought!

Those weights are homegrown. 3/16" steel plate welded together, rebar handles and 1/2x1 hooks fabbed up. I agree with you on tractor weight prices which is why I welded up my own.

 

[CounterMeasure]

The heavy chains I use for pulling up dead cedars/junipers are stored on the box blade for weight. I wrap them around the raised scarifiers. They are easier to remove and reinstall for my fused spine than suitcase weights.

 

[OntheRidge]

Solved.

 

[Ping]

Solved. View attachment 177780

You need a couple more for the MIL & SIL!

 

[#40Fan]

You need a couple more for the MIL & SIL!

Wider too.