The drying time of Loctite 577 is KILLING ME!!!!!!!!

[Runs With Scissors]

So one of the 287,976 projects I have going on right now is making “air drops” for each machine I have in the “main shop"

Amazingly, I decided to not buy a threading tool for the black pipe…..I instead have made a series of “quick trips” to the Depot, and that is getting annoying FAST…..

I have never done this much piping before and WOW, has it turned into “quite the project”.

Since I really don’t have a good handle on exactly what I want done, nor how to fit and measure properly, I decided that putting it together “dry” at first, then taking it all apart and re-building it again using pipe dope was the best way to go.


I’m not sure my thinking was “sound”, but I digress…….

One of the big dilemmas I have/had was the whole “which pipe dope is best"

It was weighing on me heavily….too heavily actaully….I just could not get past it.

The last time I used this “Blue Rectum Sealer"



Now although I did get a 100% leak free joints, I did not get them that way on the first shot.

I had to take a few of them apart once (or twice)….I was dreading having to do that again considering all the joints this project is going to have.

I have spent entirely too much time on the inter-web trying to figure out the “perfect sealer”, it was/is MIND BOGGLING how many opinions/options there are AGGGGGGGHHHHHH!!!



I finally decided to “pull the trigger” and go with my “gut” (kinda)

I decided on Loctite 577…….I have no affiliation with the Loctite company, but I do like their products in general, and this “anaerobic sealer” idea holds a special place in my heart for some strange/odd/curious reason(s).

I normally just “swing for the fences” and do an entire job and hope for the best, but I have decided to “lay up” this time.

I fear that if I completed the entire job and ended up with many leaks, I would be so demoralized that drastic actions may occur…..



SO, I decide to divide the job into a 3 part series, and do about 1/3 each day, and “pressure test” as I go.

Here are the first couple of joints


Oh yea, I also decided to put in a few random “unions” in case I ever need to repair/modify something, I will/can take out only that section…(at least thats the theory)






Here is the “main connection” that will go to the compressor.




I have been taking my time and prepping each thread by cleaning with a wire wheel, then degreasing very well, using rags and “brake clean”.

Then I “schmutz” on the sealer and tighten……I am trying not to “over-tighten”, but who knows?


But now the waiting 24 hours part is killing me …..Damn IT!!!!!!

 

[Tughill Tom]

Blue+ is good stuff. But why Iron and not PEX?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Are you running natural gas or propane to each piece of equipment?
Plastic / pex is a much faster, cheaper, and simpler way to go.
I have my entire shop done in pex and it took me less than and hour to put in 9 drops.
It's also much easier to be able alter it when things move or change.

And @Tughill Tom beat me in typing the same though.

 

[Kurtee]

Plain and simple I like galvanized pipe for air piping. I have done several industrial locations and found that when moisture gets into the black pipe it tends to rust and can move through the system and cause problems with the air tools. In a large shop I install valving to create zones in the event of a failure in a coupler or pipe damage. Shut down a zone and keep most of the shop operating while repairs are being done. Never ever use PVC as it is dangerous.

 

[Sidekick]

With black iron always mount slightly off level with a drop drain at the low end for condensation. Most tiny leaks will rust up in less then a week I found . Threads from home depot Chinese pipes are usually crap to start with so may take lampwick with compound I have found.

 

[whatsupdoc]

If this is for shop air you could of used Pex-AL-Pex, it handles higher pressures than standard pex and much easier than threading black pipe.

 

[Workerbee]

I really dont think RWS is about doing things easy….

 

[William1]

If this is for shop air you could of used Pex-AL-Pex, it handles higher pressures than standard pex and much easier than threading black pipe.

This is what I'll be piping my shop with at some point. As I understand it, it is pretty stupid proof. I bet I can prove that wrong.

 

[Dustball]

No need to wait 24 hours. 3-6 hours will get you most of the way there.

https://datasheets.tdx.henkel.com/LOCTITE-577-en_GL.pdf

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Although I considered Pex, in my mind, I lumped it together with PVC.

And yes, yes, yes….I know they are not the same, but the voices in my head said “Use Black pipe dummy”….So blame them.

I probably should have considered galvanized though…..Oh well, maybe in my next life.

@Dustball thanks for that info….The only problem with those graphs is that they left out one very important data point…….I have added it for clarification

 

[Runs With Scissors]

With black iron always mount slightly off level …..

Oh trust me sir, there is nothing level about this project….

 

[Kennyd4110]

This is one reason my I used mostly 1/2" copper for my system when I built my house. Yes its expensive but much simpler for me to sweat a joint vs deal with threading and cheap Chinese fittings that have terrible NPT threads.

In the pole barn, I mostly used DOT air tubing and push-to-connect fittings.

 

[Yooper]

I’m with Ken on this one. Did my shop with 3/4 copper because I just don’t get along with npt threads. Yeah, its old school, but I’m getting to be an old guy so it all fits.

 

[hedgerow]

I have two different shops and both are piped with copper. One inch, three quarter inch and half inch pipe. Use the heavy pipe and the heavy fittings on all of it. Did one almost forty years ago and one just over twenty years ago. Wasn't cheap then but I have had zero issues with it over the years. Had to replace several quick connects but never a piece of pipe or fitting. Have a good buddy that used black pipe thirty years ago and has had to put filters on all his drops to catch the rust. I think next winter he is going to tear out the black pipe and go Pex.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Me too am in the copper fraction. Easy to work with, easy to modify, all solder joints, 3/4" and 1/2" pipes.

When it comes to sealing threads my plumber recommended hemp. Yes, hemp. Scratch the thread with a saw blade, wrap the hemp around, add a bit of lubrication gunk (I use Neo Fermit, which you most likely cannot get in the US) and put together. Works every time for me, no waiting time, full pressure straight away.

He tested Loctite, PTFE tape and hemp with gas pipes. All were assembled and leak free. He then opened the thread. PTFE failed immediately, retightening the thread did not seal it any more. Loctite failed after less than half a turn but resealed when tightened. Hemp could be opened 1 1/2 turns before starting to leak and resealed immediately when tightening.

So despite all the advances in technology and chemistry, nature still has something to offer.


p.s.: is the Loctite specified for that type of pipe? Some sealers need specific materials to cure, like brass. Most of the ones I know cure when there is lack of air. So drops clinging on outside will never cure. Is that your problem maybe?

p.p.s: you can get activators for some sealers. They speed up the curing process dramatically. Gunk on one side, activator on the other and then assemble.

 

[Bee-Positive]

FYI
Plumber's hemp, also known as oakum, should only be applied to fittings with fixed female and male threads. With lock nut or compression fittings, it is the nut that compresses the thread (or the olive in the case of a compression fitting) and makes the connection watertight. Applying hemp or pipe sealing cord to these connections would prevent the joint from being compressed correctly.

 

[Sidekick]

FYI
Plumber's hemp, also known as oakum, should only be applied to fittings with fixed female and male threads. With lock nut or compression fittings, it is the nut that compresses the thread (or the olive in the case of a compression fitting) and makes the connection watertight. Applying hemp or pipe sealing cord to these connections would prevent the joint from being compressed correctly.

This is what I have used for close to 60 years. A couple strands in the threads.

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