Too fat/lazy/old to unlock your SSQA?????……..Then follow me ;)

[Runs With Scissors]

DHH has a guide on how to measure lengths and clock fittings

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1/4" hose is more than adequate. I suggest their standard R16 hose. They promote their HT hose (also R16) but personally its a waste of money. Whatever you chose get hoses with JIC-06 female swivel ends.

Are you doing a diverter or directional valve? You need to buy and mount it before you can measure hose runs.

Dan

OK.

This is the link for the valve I was/am considering. I think it will do everything I need.


https://surpluscenter.com/12-vdc-13-2-gpm-sae-8-double-selector-valve/


It is the one I posted above. From the description it should do everything I need.

In my head, when I am finished, switching between bucket and forks, will go like this.

1. flip switch…..(this diverts flow from grapple ports to “new cylinder”)

2. use loader buttons to release

2. back away from bucket, align SSQA with forks.

3. use loader buttons to lock cylinder into place.

4. flip switch to original position…..(Now hydraulic pressure is going to “grapple ports” again.)

4. Done…..


What say you?

 

[TheOldHokie]

OK.

This is the link for the valve I was/am considering. I think it will do everything I need.


https://surpluscenter.com/12-vdc-13-2-gpm-sae-8-double-selector-valve/


It is the one I posted above. From the description it should do everything I need.

In my head, when I am finished, switching between bucket and forks, will go like this.

1. flip switch…..(this diverts flow from grapple ports to “new cylinder”)

2. use loader buttons to release

2. back away from bucket, align SSQA with forks.

3. use loader buttons to lock cylinder into place.

4. flip switch to original position…..(Now hydraulic pressure is going to “grapple ports” again.)

4. Done…..


What say you?

Thats it.

Dan

 

[Old Machinist]

OK.

This is the link for the valve I was/am considering. I think it will do everything I need.


https://surpluscenter.com/12-vdc-13-2-gpm-sae-8-double-selector-valve/


It is the one I posted above. From the description it should do everything I need.

In my head, when I am finished, switching between bucket and forks, will go like this.

1. flip switch…..(this diverts flow from grapple ports to “new cylinder”)

2. use loader buttons to release

2. back away from bucket, align SSQA with forks.

3. use loader buttons to lock cylinder into place.

4. flip switch to original position…..(Now hydraulic pressure is going to “grapple ports” again.)

4. Done…..


What say you?

You can get China versions of this for a third of the price. Most of the cheaper ones come with #10 SAE or 1/2" BSPP ports so you have to pay attention to that to source the correct adaptors.

 

[TheOldHokie]

You can get China versions of this for a third of the price. Most of the cheaper ones come with #10 SAE or 1/2" BSPP ports so you have to pay attention to that to source the correct adaptors.

What makes you think thats not an over priced "China version" with SAE 8 ports

Dan

 

[Kennyd4110]

For those that know electric/electronics, a 'diverter' is like a DPDT switch for hydraulics.

 

[Old Machinist]

What makes you think thats not an over priced "China version" with SAE 8 ports

Dan

I'm sure it is but I haven't found any with the #8 ports that were in the $50 range. Not much differennce in adapter prices so it makes no sense to insist on the #8 ports.

Way back when I bought the selector valve for my JD it had the #8 ports and only cost $115 from Bailey.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I'm sure it is but I haven't found any with the #8 ports that were in the $50 range. Not much differennce in adapter prices so it makes no sense to insist on the #8 ports.

Way back when I bought the selector valve for my JD it had the #8 ports and only cost $115 from Bailey.

Could not agree more.

 

[selftot]

What value does the selector valve add ?
Is this so you dont have to disconnect SSQA when you use the grapple ?

You'll be at the connection anyway when you connect the grapple hoses. You could use the same 3rd function connection by switching SSQA hoses with grapple hoses.

Maybe I'm missing something...

Edit : i think i get it now. Rather than using flat face/ pioneer connectors for for the SSQA cylinder you are going to plumb it directly ?

 

[TheOldHokie]

What value does the selector valve add ?
Is this so you dont have to disconnect SSQA when you use the grapple ?

You'll be at the connection anyway when you connect the grapple hoses.

Maybe I'm missing something...

He is adding a cylinder to the SSQA levers to let him unlock the SSQA from the operators seat. He needs a way to control that cylinder.

The selector allows him to switch the third function valve to the SSQA cylinder when locking or unlocking the SSQA. Otherwise its connected to the third function outlets.

Still missing something?

Dan

 

[selftot]

Still missing something?

Yeah - kinda.

I just switch hoses at the third function quick disconnect and third function operates whatever i have plugged in. The selector seems unnecessarily complicated unless you need a forth function on the front for something.

More than 1 way to skin a cat.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Yeah - kinda.

I just switch hoses at the third function quick disconnect and third function operates whatever i have plugged in. The selector seems unnecessarily complicated.

More than 1 way to skin a cat.

This way the SSQA is aiways connected, there is never a need to switch hoses, no additional couplers, and the third function is aways free.

That may be unneccessarily complicated to you but it is a common feature on skid loaders.

Kubota will charge you about $800 for their factory version of this cat skin.

Dan

 

[selftot]

Yeah - that's the "direct connection plumbing" i realized after my first comment.

Make sense.

I would be tempted to try for a dedicated toggle switch to control ssqa but i guess that requires a bit more plumbing and a valve rather than diverter.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Yeah - that's the "direct connection plumbing" i realized after my first comment.

Make sense.

I would be tempted to try for a dedicated toggle switch to control ssqa but i guess that requires a bit more plumbing and a valve rather than diverter.

About the same cost and very simple plumbing.

Dan

 

[Old Machinist]

I kinda like the Linear Actuator suggestion. This 8 inch stroke unit with 220 lbs of force should operate it. 16 seconds to cycle full stroke isn't too bad of a wait.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D728CS53?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

I used the 4 inch version on my seed spreader

 

[Chanceywd]

I put a linear actuator on mine. It only worked a couple times and quit so I reverted to manual.
I got around to looking at it and it was all rusted inside the motor and it said indoor use only. I never had it out in the rain. have been going to look one up or get another and seal the motor somehow.

it was a vevor and rated for 6000Nmax load

One thing I could add to this is I got a couple hemi ends and longer bolts for the manual linkage pivot point. so there was really no complicated figuring out the stroke needed.

Bill

 

[Chanceywd]

These are the hemi ends I used.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324050550812

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I put a linear actuator on mine. It only worked a couple times and quit so I reverted to manual.
I got around to looking at it and it was all rusted inside the motor and it said indoor use only. I never had it out in the rain. have been going to look one up or get another and seal the motor somehow.

it was a vevor and rated for 6000Nmax load

One thing I could add to this is I got a couple hemi ends and longer bolts for the manual linkage pivot point. so there was really no complicated figuring out the stroke needed.

Bill

Excellent idea sir.

How/where did you attach those end?

Those would help with the cylinder length, buy giving me a decent “fudge factor”.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

So far, the valve I posted is the one I plan to go with, but as per-usual. I found a “similar valve" on Flea Bay for about 100 bucks cheaper……




https://www.ebay.com/itm/126872183233?_skw=12v+dc+solenoid+hydraulic&itmmeta=01KXD6SA3CHXGBSZ3MKQGJACNM&hash=item1d8a2be1c1:g:12cAAeSwwatqFm0Z&itmprp=enc:AQALAAABAGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xBXIHDKXUF2dbRsJb7XkeHt89SyRPW5xsShpbBXNtfWpCm0OWds1SrYPuXZL7xWFqroy97I8kp2plHlmuzET/8Wa4TGPQlIuI5KerFfblqV/gupESxklnf0WBPWjizhHeLyYkiKIE3zE/5+yS+10LuIMUe21gKWL0gnnArzarqyGvWTcUEAPzyz8AhjUoGO9xcEc5598K68TUQ+scf7JyYcmfs6lvN68r7gndu6wdKSrg5rUz8EKtFY872cp7Uxqxo+d8eOYieDVwm3MxmQZfsMyHun7m9V+Q4UHFepHRQ479/3Fir2KBqdtzlPRxZU0xs=|tkp:Bk9SR_ih5abrZw


Now the big question:

Is the 160 dollar valve, simply a 60 dollar valve with a 100 profit built into it?

Damn, I hate the dreaded : Is the “more expensive” unit really better?” question.

Snap-on Vs. Husky????

Rotella Vs Wally World????


Half of me wants to go the "cheap route”, the smart side wants to go the “expensive route”?

Typical “paralysis by analysis” situation.


I will look for a cylinder today on my “spare time”

 

[TheOldHokie]

So far, the valve I posted is the one I plan to go with, but as per-usual. I found a “similar valve" on Flea Bay for about 100 bucks cheaper……

View attachment 176943


https://www.ebay.com/itm/126872183233?_skw=12v+dc+solenoid+hydraulic&itmmeta=01KXD6SA3CHXGBSZ3MKQGJACNM&hash=item1d8a2be1c1:g:12cAAeSwwatqFm0Z&itmprp=enc:AQALAAABAGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xBXIHDKXUF2dbRsJb7XkeHt89SyRPW5xsShpbBXNtfWpCm0OWds1SrYPuXZL7xWFqroy97I8kp2plHlmuzET/8Wa4TGPQlIuI5KerFfblqV/gupESxklnf0WBPWjizhHeLyYkiKIE3zE/5+yS+10LuIMUe21gKWL0gnnArzarqyGvWTcUEAPzyz8AhjUoGO9xcEc5598K68TUQ+scf7JyYcmfs6lvN68r7gndu6wdKSrg5rUz8EKtFY872cp7Uxqxo+d8eOYieDVwm3MxmQZfsMyHun7m9V+Q4UHFepHRQ479/3Fir2KBqdtzlPRxZU0xs=|tkp:Bk9SR_ih5abrZw


Now the big question:

Is the 160 dollar valve, simply a 60 dollar valve with a 100 profit built into it?

Damn, I hate the dreaded : Is the “more expensive” unit really better?” question.

Snap-on Vs. Husky????

Rotella Vs Wally World????


So went of me wants to go the "cheap route”, the smart s o to go the “expensive route”?

Typical “paralysis by analysis” situation.


I will look for a cylinder today on my “spare time”

KISS

I looked at this idea about a year ago and went so far as taking measurements. The easy way looked to be buy a cylinder and fab the arms to fit. With a plasma cutter in house you can easily "trial and error" the fit. Welding anything to a cylinder is a royal PITA.

This does not have to be an electric valve. I already have a "cheap" two spool manual valve on the loader so spool #2 was going to be used for the SSQA. You only use this function once in a blue moon and then for just a few minutes.

Dan

 

[Chanceywd]

Excellent idea sir.

How/where did you attach those end?

Those would help with the cylinder length, buy giving me a decent “fudge factor”.

What I did by attaching at the linkage point was make it so the whole thing comes on and off by just changing the 2 bolts. The existing large washer has to stay in its position to keep the handle in place so you use that both ways. The bolts I bought were 12mm 1.25 x 35 mm long.

I found that you need 8" of stroke so I started with that size linear actuator fully extended and the latches closed. Then when they are in the open position actuator pins clear nicely.
Electric or hydraulic 8" stroke should work,

Sorry I didn't have a picture of it mounted and working I could find so I just put one end on and took pictures this morning.

The last 3 pics are latches I made to keep the manual methods from getting unlatched and they work nice too.

Bill