What did you do to or on your Kubota today?

[Old_Paint]

It’s a manual breaker setup inside to isolate from the utility. Partly because I don’t know for a fact what code is here and partly because there’s enough power involved to kill a person or three, I hired a licensed electrician to spec it and install it. My only instructions were whatever he installed had to meet code regardless the cost.

Doesn’t take much for a back feed to end a life. This was always our greatest fear when we were doing paper mill maintenance outages and there were thousands of little generators scattered all over the place. A few milliamperes is fatal given the right path through the body, and the step down transformer for a service drop is a step up just as well.

What you have is the minimum requirement here as well. Transfer switches (auto or manual) are a bit pricier than the usual mechanical lockout for two breakers. I want to replace my meter socket with an outdoor distribution panel and socket combo to add a 200A disconnect outside the house (required for all new construction) and feed the existing panel inside from that with a 100A breaker. Apparently the service tri-plex is rated for 400A (I asked) and the power company replaced the transformer just last year with a larger unit. The 1978 version kinda bit the dust. That would allow me to run a new circuit to my shop to get a little more capacity out there and add a split unit to cool it in the summer. It would also allow me to do exactly what you have with a manual interlock for isolation. I’m a retired field service electrical engineer for heavy industry, so I’m probably not going to need an electrician. Don’t have to have a license to work on your own property in this area but may have to get a permit. I can get everything I need at several suppliers around here. It’s probably harder to schedule the power company to disconnect it in the morning and return to reconnect when I’m done with the mods. I have to get it completely disconnected before I can start because there’s no disconnect between the meter and the inside distribution panel. The meter socket sits right on top of the wire going to the distribution panel. Hindsight is 20/20. I had to replace the socket about 8 years ago when the power company swapped out all the old meters with new smart meters. They didn’t seat the new meter correctly and it blew out the stabs on one side. Of course, the socket belongs to me, doesn’t it. I didn’t think quite far enough ahead and I was a bit rushed to get the power back on, so didn’t do the upgrade then. Exterior isolation is now required for any service modifications because of new fire codes. If I add an outdoor connection for a generator, it would be another selling point if we decide to sell and move. One more thing it would do is make it a lot easier to add solar power to the house if we decide to stay.

 

[ajschnitzelbank]

My brother bought the lot next to me as a vacation spot. He’s rather busy, so hasn’t gotten to this tri-axle load of gravel since last fall. I spread it for him today.







Then there was a broken white pine top stuck in a maple. I pulled as much of that out as I could. There’s still a little up there.





And the rest of the pine needed to come down. I misjudged the lean by a few feet, so it didn’t thread perfectly between the trees I wanted it to. It hit a maple, the top snapped off and came right back toward me. It ended up just behind the stump. Luckily I’m well trained and wasn’t standing there to get whacked with it.

 

[NCL4701]

The bit of wind we got a few days ago felled a couple trees across the sewer line, which is one of the “roads” we use routinely. This one had an old injury at the base from I don’t know what. Top 95% was in good condition, so decided to get some firewood out of it.

Stripped the limbs off the top and left them laying. Pulled the top ~30’ out of the limb tangle and skidded it back to the wood yard to work up another day. After the top section of trunk was removed, used the grapple to shove all the limbs and remainder of tree top off into the woods.
Did a straight pull on the rest of the trunk to get it out on the open. Then hooked up the logs to the chain slotted drawbar for the ride to the wood lot. Probably could have cut them longer or pulled two at a time, but there was no point in pushing the equipment that hard as there was no deadline or production quota. First of two creek cuts on the way to the wood yard. Made a little pile off to the edge of the wood yard to work on some time it isn’t quite so hot. Further west, a long dead half rotten tree fell completely across the right of way. Cut in into two pieces and grappled them out of the way.

 

[KubotaHawg]

Graded new neighbors driveway—previous owner had gravel tailgated too thick/deep so even a sxs would spin going up it. Previous owner grew up in a big city so he didn’t know any better.

Spread thin and pack it down. Dragged all the excess up top by his house/flat parking area and spread it thin. BB definitely has its advantages.

The way I was taught you want a good neighbor, be a good neighbor—not to mention nice young couple, first time homebuyers with a couple of little ones.

 

[Sidekick]

Trimming the bushes. Who needs a chipper when you have 5 acres of woods and a RTV

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

Today I cheated on my girls…I felt dirty, but that was mainly from mud and grease. really good friend had some bad luck and is in hospital so I volunteered for tractor duty. So I spent the afternoon on an L3302 manual transmission with a woods finish mower in tow. Approx 4 acres, and it needed mowing bad. The L3302 did a pretty good job. It’s a very nice machine.

I missed my Pats quick hitch and did not like the stepping thru with the gear shift lever on the floor. It did not generate near the heat or wine that my HSTs do either. Otherwise it was easy peasy.

 

[S-G-R]

Put a solid 10 hours in of yard work. Had to clean both the rear finish mower and cub decks twice due to grass buildup. Greased the tractor and mower and then called it a day.

 

[lynnmor]

Trimming the bushes. Who needs a chipper when you have 5 acres of woods and a RTV
View attachment 176319 View attachment 176320 View attachment 176321

Is that tree of heaven or sumac? It is hard to tell the difference so Google it to be sure. If tree of heaven, keep the chainsaw running because spotted lantern flies will be a big problem.

 

[Sidekick]

Is that tree of heaven or sumac? It is hard to tell the difference so Google it to be sure. If tree of heaven, keep the chainsaw running because spotted lantern flies will be a big problem.

Sumac along with other edge growing weeds. We definitely have the spotted lantern flies up here.

 

[MotoBBQ]

Used the pallet forks to move my vapor blasting cabinet from garage to pole shed for storage. It's 95% finished, just waiting on my sheet metal friend to fab up a couple pieces. My neighbor welded up some angle iron for the bottom legs to be on a dolly. Now I can move it to the house for blasting, since that's where the air compressor is.

 

[KubotaHawg]

Serviced boy wonder’s ZG222 top to bottom—finally, after bugging him for a month to get it done. Girlfriend was busy so he didn’t have his nose up her a$$ for once.

Greased all the points, checked oil, air filter, and hydraulic oil myself while he’s under the deck trying to get the first blade off with his Milwaukee impact driver to no avail. I then proceeded to break out my 24” ratchet handle, slide my 3’ pvc cheater bar over it and it comes loose ez pz.

It is damn fun to show an 18 yo 210 lb son that a skinny 56 yo dad knows how to do things—work smarter not harder—and next time don’t tighten it so hard with your impact driver…

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

I used the B to load my new eggpliment so I could take her for a drive.

 

[nerwin]

Guys, I can’t decide between the BB1266 and BB1566. The 12 was $1171 and the 15 was $1635. Plus tax of course. I’m just trying to regrade my driveway which is a hard sta-mat but doesn’t take much the rip it up either.

I dont know if my L2501 will bend the 1266 or if it’s 370 pounds of weight is enough to dig into the driveway.

it’s hard to justify the near $1800 cost of the 15 series.

What would you do?

 

[RMS]

Got some practice with the mulcher head. I'm still learning how to operate the excavator and adding the mulcher makes it even more interesting.

 

[MotoBBQ]

Guys, I can’t decide between the BB1266 and BB1566. The 12 was $1171 and the 15 was $1635. Plus tax of course. I’m just trying to regrade my driveway which is a hard sta-mat but doesn’t take much the rip it up either.

I dont know if my L2501 will bend the 1266 or if it’s 370 pounds of weight is enough to dig into the driveway.

it’s hard to justify the near $1800 cost of the 15 series.

What would you do?

I went with the 15 series just because I wanted it to stand up to some abuse. The 3 pt mounts are reinforced, and what I like most the scarifies lock in place with a pin. I usually have my box blade on all the time for counter weight, unless I'm mowing. The added weight is a plus.

 

[NCL4701]

Guys, I can’t decide between the BB1266 and BB1566. The 12 was $1171 and the 15 was $1635. Plus tax of course. I’m just trying to regrade my driveway which is a hard sta-mat but doesn’t take much the rip it up either.

I dont know if my L2501 will bend the 1266 or if it’s 370 pounds of weight is enough to dig into the driveway.

it’s hard to justify the near $1800 cost of the 15 series.

What would you do?

I have a 1572. I like it, and it has stood up to some hard use. I wouldn’t want anything lighter built.

 

[NCL4701]

Started off working on creek crossings. Two were bad enough the Mule is starting to drag. This one had a hole on the right side a 12” CMU with a 2” concrete cap just about filled perfectly. The other side swallowed an 8” CMU. Some 3” thick flat concrete on both sides finished it off. The “dirt” is clay silt so it’s hard as concrete when dry and mashed potatoes when wet. When it dries in a couple days so I can cross without damage, I’ll work on the other one. The next job was taking this piece of maple tree from over the creek to the wood yard. Figured I might as well pick up whatever deadfall needed working up to firewood while I had the winch on. Really need the box blade for the other creek crossing work, so the winch will be coming off soon.
Hooked up a choker and the winch line to pull it sideways away from the main tree. It wasn’t far from the trail, but couldn’t have gotten it without the winch.
Crossed the creek with the Husqvarna 455 to knock out the smaller limbs in the top. Halfway through the first pull to start it, the starter handle came off in my hand and the rope disappeared into the starter housing. Maybe I should have taken that as a sign, but I didn’t.

Back across the creek for a screwdriver from the OEM pencil box that holds a surprisingly diverse smattering of stuff. 10 minutes later, climbed to the other side with the saw again and limbed it up.

There were two limbs about 3” to 4” jammed in the creek bed holding up the 40’ +/- section of tree. Figured the winch would break those off pulling it out and I’d trim them off before skidding it out. If you look closely you can see one of them sticking up at about a 45 degree angle near a little elm tree.

I noticed it, but didn’t look close enough, so I thought it was near the little elm, not jammed up against the elm such that the elm was preventing the whole log from rolling. So of course as I’m cutting the limb off, instead of falling off like it would if it was just hanging in the air, the kerf closes and catches the saw. At that point, I see the limb is stuck in this little tree, so I figure I’ll just push it off to free the saw. Pushed on it a little and it disengaged from the elm.

Then things get weird. Apparently this 40’ log REALLY wants to roll to the same side the saw and I are on. So with the speed of a Bruce Lee punch, it snap rolls and now the limb that was stuck on the little tree is jammed on the ground. The saw is still stuck and the limb landed on my right boot. Wearing 8” steel toed loggers was one of my better decisions today. My foot wasn’t hurt at all, but it was stuck. Tried lifting the limb to roll the log; negative. Unbuckled my chainsaw chaps, unlace my boot, and remove my foot.

No worries. I can lift the log with the grapple, then retrieve my boot and saw. But I’ve still got the bucket on from where I was messing with that crossing earlier. And I hadn’t unhooked the winch line or choker yet, thinking I’d get the choker on the drawbar after removing those last two limbs. When the log rolled over, it rolled on top of the choker hook and the hook on the winch line. Choker was banjo string tight and wouldn’t rotate around the log at all. Couldn’t get to either of them to unhook the tractor. Had to laugh at myself just a little. I have just been outmaneuvered by a log that in one swift quarter roll simultaneously trapped my boot, saw, and tractor. Well played maple log. Well played. But the day isn’t over.

Didn’t want to pull on the log any more out of concern for damaging the saw and/or trapped boot. Figured me and my one boot could either walk a quarter mile back to the shop, get the Mule with 3500lb winch, ride up to my house to get the little 12” electric pruning chainsaw, change into my insulated winter work boots; or pull out a bunch of winch line and very carefully maneuver the tractor to lift the end of the log with the bucket enough to free the tractor. Decided to go with the loader option as Plan A. Almost shocked it worked. Got the winch line unhooked, which freed the tractor to lift the log near the saw to release both the saw and my boot.
Skidded the whole thing in one piece to the wood yard. Then cut it in half to add to the stack of stuff to turn into firewood later.
As sort of an aside, this trail was actually the worst part of retrieving the maple. It’s narrow, about half washed out, and replete with exposed roots. It also rises about 60’ in 100’. It used to be the main access from the end of the plateau where we live to the creek bottom. Those exposed roots have a coefficient of friction similar to glaze ice. It’s condition is the result of trying to pull 5000lb trailer loads of firewood up a steep dirt trail with a 2WD tractor with R1’s and no diff lock. The L in 4WD didn’t slip but even with the loader on, a little brake steering was needed. Front wheels weren’t doing much.

 

[KubotaHawg]

Guys, I can’t decide between the BB1266 and BB1566. The 12 was $1171 and the 15 was $1635. Plus tax of course. I’m just trying to regrade my driveway which is a hard sta-mat but doesn’t take much the rip it up either.

I dont know if my L2501 will bend the 1266 or if it’s 370 pounds of weight is enough to dig into the driveway.

it’s hard to justify the near $1800 cost of the 15 series.

What would you do?

I have a 1260 on my 28 hp L2800–comparable tractor—weighing 346#. Don’t even know it’s back there lifting it. It’s plenty sturdy for what I need but the extra 75# with the 1560 would dig a lot better.

1266: 373#
1566: 450#

If that will be your only bladed implement go with the heavier weight blade every time. Granted all I use the BB for is pulling gravel washed down the steep driveway back up the hill and don’t need anything heavy to dig. I can feather the 3 pt lever gently and adjust the angle to get a cleaner result with the BB than my 7’ three way blade that weighs 500#. I use the 7’ blade on the upper section and it does a lot better job of completely resurfacing a rough gravel/dirt driveway due to the weight but it has angle, tilt, and offset adjustment. I definitely know its back there when lifting it, and if I’m not careful it will stop and stall my little 2600# 28 hp tractor if I take too deep of a bite.

 

[nerwin]

Well I walked in thinking I was going to buy the BB1266 and I saw a used Kioti BB2066 on the lot. Well managed to get it for just over a grand.

I had them load it into my Nissian Frontier





Man this is one rugged blade. Extremely durable, probably more than the LP1566. This thing weighs 528 pounds.

I messed around with it in my driveway, can’t ruin it any more than it already is! I honestly don’t know what I’m doing but the teeth didn’t take much to rip through this hard pack sta-mat. I experimented with the geometry of the 3 point to get it to angle for crowning, digging and smoothing.

what I have a hard time is figuring out how to level everything. I just gotta learn how to do it.

But yeah, kind of glad I went with this.

I had it full of dirt at one point when pulling it and just about to roll over the top. The L2501 didn’t even struggle, just kept pulling. Impressed.

 

[g_man]

Started off working on creek crossings. Two were bad enough the Mule is starting to drag. This one had a hole on the right side a 12” CMU with a 2” concrete cap just about filled perfectly. The other side swallowed an 8” CMU. Some 3” thick flat concrete on both sides finished it off. The “dirt” is clay silt so it’s hard as concrete when dry and mashed potatoes when wet. When it dries in a couple days so I can cross without damage, I’ll work on the other one. View attachment 176451 The next job was taking this piece of maple tree from over the creek to the wood yard. Figured I might as well pick up whatever deadfall needed working up to firewood while I had the winch on. Really need the box blade for the other creek crossing work, so the winch will be coming off soon.
View attachment 176452 Hooked up a choker and the winch line to pull it sideways away from the main tree. It wasn’t far from the trail, but couldn’t have gotten it without the winch. View attachment 176453
Crossed the creek with the Husqvarna 455 to knock out the smaller limbs in the top. Halfway through the first pull to start it, the starter handle came off in my hand and the rope disappeared into the starter housing. Maybe I should have taken that as a sign, but I didn’t.

Back across the creek for a screwdriver from the OEM pencil box that holds a surprisingly diverse smattering of stuff. 10 minutes later, climbed to the other side with the saw again and limbed it up.

There were two limbs about 3” to 4” jammed in the creek bed holding up the 40’ +/- section of tree. Figured the winch would break those off pulling it out and I’d trim them off before skidding it out. If you look closely you can see one of them sticking up at about a 45 degree angle near a little elm tree.

I noticed it, but didn’t look close enough, so I thought it was near the little elm, not jammed up against the elm such that the elm was preventing the whole log from rolling. So of course as I’m cutting the limb off, instead of falling off like it would if it was just hanging in the air, the kerf closes and catches the saw. At that point, I see the limb is stuck in this little tree, so I figure I’ll just push it off to free the saw. Pushed on it a little and it disengaged from the elm.

Then things get weird. Apparently this 40’ log REALLY wants to roll to the same side the saw and I are on. So with the speed of a Bruce Lee punch, it snap rolls and now the limb that was stuck on the little tree is jammed on the ground. The saw is still stuck and the limb landed on my right boot. Wearing 8” steel toed loggers was one of my better decisions today. My foot wasn’t hurt at all, but it was stuck. Tried lifting the limb to roll the log; negative. Unbuckled my chainsaw chaps, unlace my boot, and remove my foot.

No worries. I can lift the log with the grapple, then retrieve my boot and saw. But I’ve still got the bucket on from where I was messing with that crossing earlier. And I hadn’t unhooked the winch line or choker yet, thinking I’d get the choker on the drawbar after removing those last two limbs. When the log rolled over, it rolled on top of the choker hook and the hook on the winch line. Choker was banjo string tight and wouldn’t rotate around the log at all. Couldn’t get to either of them to unhook the tractor. Had to laugh at myself just a little. I have just been outmaneuvered by a log that in one swift quarter roll simultaneously trapped my boot, saw, and tractor. Well played maple log. Well played. But the day isn’t over.

Didn’t want to pull on the log any more out of concern for damaging the saw and/or trapped boot. Figured me and my one boot could either walk a quarter mile back to the shop, get the Mule with 3500lb winch, ride up to my house to get the little 12” electric pruning chainsaw, change into my insulated winter work boots; or pull out a bunch of winch line and very carefully maneuver the tractor to lift the end of the log with the bucket enough to free the tractor. Decided to go with the loader option as Plan A. Almost shocked it worked. Got the winch line unhooked, which freed the tractor to lift the log near the saw to release both the saw and my boot. View attachment 176455
Skidded the whole thing in one piece to the wood yard. Then cut it in half to add to the stack of stuff to turn into firewood later. View attachment 176456
As sort of an aside, this trail was actually the worst part of retrieving the maple. It’s narrow, about half washed out, and replete with exposed roots. It also rises about 60’ in 100’. It used to be the main access from the end of the plateau where we live to the creek bottom. Those exposed roots have a coefficient of friction similar to glaze ice. It’s condition is the result of trying to pull 5000lb trailer loads of firewood up a steep dirt trail with a 2WD tractor with R1’s and no diff lock. The L in 4WD didn’t slip but even with the loader on, a little brake steering was needed. Front wheels weren’t doing much. View attachment 176454

That's quite a story - it's amazing what happens and how fast. I've gotten caught by the pinch and role trick played by wise guy logs but one never managed to grab my boot





Two good examples of the importance of PPE if you value your body parts .


gg