What did you do to or on your Kubota today?

KubotaHawg

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
L2800DT, LA463, Landpride ΒΒ1260, RCR1260, ZG222
Jan 9, 2022
147
306
63
NW Arkansas
Got my $35 Chinesium replacement seat belt in. Now just have to let the PB Blaster work for a few days to get 20 year old bolts off to replace the old one.
IMG_4868.jpeg
 
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PoTreeBoy

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
L35 Ford 3930
Mar 24, 2020
3,759
2,323
113
WestTn/NoMs
I came into possession of a NOS 2 ton mini-split to put in my shed. It's so old it uses R22 and is cool only, but the price was right. I decided to mount the outside unit on the wall, elevated to keep it out of the weeds. Got the brackets fabbed and mounted, then I realized how heavy it is. Katy was still wearing her forks, so she graciously carried it around and lifted it into place.

Then we dug a few small stumps to get ready to mow. I had mentioned to my nephew what a PIA mowing was going to be with the Ford (since it has standard gear drive), back and forth since ice storm damage has the trails messed up. He offered his, formerly his dad's, 5' Ford 953A cutter. That sounded good, so I took the backhoe off and installed the 3ph. Then the fun began, putting the cutter on. In 60 years, I've never had that much trouble putting a 3 pt implement on. It was on a slight incline, so I had to set the brake to keep the tractor from rolling. Which meant I couldn't roll it by hand to line up the pins. Then those _ _ _ turnbuckle stabilizers. Now I see why so many guys cuss them.

After 2+ hours, I have a 5' Ford 953A cutter on my L35. It was too late to try it out tonight, but weather allowing, we'll go tomorrow. It's heavier than I expected, I haven't found the spec's, but it's all she wants. Just a note, the L35 is tough in most areas, but the 3 pt lift looks somewhat vulnerable. Both the lower arm and the lift arm mounts appear a little weak. I'll try not to abuse them.
 
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g_man

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Equipment
L3010DT, M5640SUD, Dresser TD7G
Feb 3, 2023
371
1,716
93
NE Vermont
Just a long story with a maybe, maybe not, happy ending.

About a month ago I put the chipper on the M5640 to clean up a mess from a broken off pine. I noticed that when I engaged the pto the tach did not switch over to pto RPM. When I got done chipping I checked to see if the engine would start with the pto engaged. It did - so I had a safety switch problem but not a critical one.

The other day I had time to look into it in the afternoon. I could barely reach in behind the large rear tire to remove the two bolts that hold the switch cover on and when I got the cover off I could not see the switch w/o a mirror. The view was very limited. I could feel that the switch spring lever seemed to be swinging properly when the pto lever was moved but I could not feel a plunger or button on the switch for the spring to push against. I had no idea what was supposed to be there so I looked the switch up on Messicks. There was no view of the active side of the switch where a button might be in their picture of the switch. I blew around back there with the air hose, sprayed in some WD40, tapped on the switch, and blew some more. Nothing changed. The swich was still stuck closed or wiring shorted. Tractor started right up with the pto engaged and not pto tach. I stuck my camera back behind the tire and took a couple blind pictures to see what was there.

pto OFF

pto-OFF.JPG

pto ON

pto-ON.JPG

Got to be supper time so I just left it and wondered if it was worth digging any deeper except I hate lurking unknowns.

We Had a stormy night and the next morning when we got up there was a medium sized maple tree laying across the road. So, I put the switch cover back on, took three tries to get both bolts started by feel, got my saw, and went out on the tractor to move the tree. I cut the top up and grappled it away. I hooked the winch cable onto the log to drag away for fire wood. When I engaged the pto to run the winch the tach switched over to pto RPM ???? Huh, - turned off the tractor and it would not restart with the pto engaged. The switch problem fixed itself over night as if by magic ???

gg
 
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S-G-R

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
Grand L5460, X1100C RTV
Jun 17, 2020
1,688
4,397
113
PEI Canada
Mowed 11 acres of grass and then cleaned off what seemed like 11 acres of grass off of the bottom of the FDR2584 😆
 
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NCL4701

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Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
3,491
6,300
113
Central Piedmont, NC
We live in one of the few places in NC that has the irritatingly invasive Spotted Lantern Fly. This time of year they look like this… IMG_9600.jpeg Later in the year when they reach adulthood they look like this one from last year that’s stuck on the wall. They seem to highly prefer another Asian invasive, ailanthus altissima trees. IMG_9603.jpeg Of many, many thousands of trees on our place, we have very few ailanthus altissima. To my knowledge, they were all in two relatively small areas. Last year, late summer or fall, I cut and chipped all of them except one.

That one had a large poison ivy vine in it. I wasn’t allergic to poison ivy until I was 35, but since then I avoid it when possible. I’m certainly not putting a chainsaw in it if there’s any way to avoid it. During the ailanthus altissima purge last year, I removed a chunk of the bottom of poison ivy vine with a bush axe. Then girdled the tree with the exception of the 1.5” or so where the ivy had been. Figured being the Lantern Flies feed on the tree’s sap, maybe the girdling would close the buffet even with the tree still standing. Until a couple days ago, forgot about the tree still being there.

Apparently the 90% girdling mostly worked. A couple days ago, on a dead calm day with no wind, heard a tree fall. The last ailanthus altissima had put out leaves, but also fell over all by itself. The top half of the poison ivy vine had fallen out away from the tree. IMG_9589.jpeg Cut up the top and ran it through the chipper. IMG_9593.jpeg
The larger parts of the trunk still had some remains of the dead ivy on them. Was able to cut it into three chunks without hitting the vine, but really didn’t care to manually deal with the logs or vines on them. Used the grapple to pull them out to the nearby field to pile them up, then picked up all of them and hauled them to the scrap log pile. It was pretty nice to pick up and remove the stuff too big to chip without ever touching it at all. IMG_9601.jpeg
This guy hung out for a while supervising the operation. Exactly the kind of supervisor I like: watched, but kept his mouth shut and let me work. IMG_9583.jpeg
 
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Killer Bee

Member
May 15, 2026
72
89
18
Show-Me State
We live in one of the few places in NC that has the irritatingly invasive Spotted Lantern Fly. This time of year they look like this… View attachment 176050 Later in the year when they reach adulthood they look like this one from last year that’s stuck on the wall. They seem to highly prefer another Asian invasive, ailanthus altissima trees. View attachment 176051 Of many, many thousands of trees on our place, we have very few ailanthus altissima. To my knowledge, they were all in two relatively small areas. Last year, late summer or fall, I cut and chipped all of them except one.

That one had a large poison ivy vine in it. I wasn’t allergic to poison ivy until I was 35, but since then I avoid it when possible. I’m certainly not putting a chainsaw in it if there’s any way to avoid it. During the ailanthus altissima purge last year, I removed a chunk of the bottom of poison ivy vine with a bush axe. Then girdled the tree with the exception of the 1.5” or so where the ivy had been. Figured being the Lantern Flies feed on the tree’s sap, maybe the girdling would close the buffet even with the tree still standing. Until a couple days ago, forgot about the tree still being there.

Apparently the 90% girdling mostly worked. A couple days ago, on a dead calm day with no wind, heard a tree fall. The last ailanthus altissima had put out leaves, but also fell over all by itself. The top half of the poison ivy vine had fallen out away from the tree. View attachment 176052 Cut up the top and ran it through the chipper. View attachment 176053
The larger parts of the trunk still had some remains of the dead ivy on them. Was able to cut it into three chunks without hitting the vine, but really didn’t care to manually deal with the logs or vines on them. Used the grapple to pull them out to the nearby field to pile them up, then picked up all of them and hauled them to the scrap log pile. It was pretty nice to pick up and remove the stuff too big to chip without ever touching it at all. View attachment 176054
This guy hung out for a while supervising the operation. Exactly the kind of supervisor I like: watched, but kept his mouth shut and let me work. View attachment 176055
quite an operation there!

if you wouldn't mind when you have a moment, please tell us more about your chipper. model, hours you've used it, size of material, pto hp you run it with, repairs, regrets, etc.

again, if you wouldn't mind. I did see your brief comment in skeets thread, maybe you could share some details there when you get a chance.


thank you! 🍻
 

NCL4701

Well-known member

Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
3,491
6,300
113
Central Piedmont, NC
quite an operation there!

if you wouldn't mind when you have a moment, please tell us more about your chipper. model, hours you've used it, size of material, pto hp you run it with, repairs, regrets, etc.

again, if you wouldn't mind. I did see your brief comment in skeets thread, maybe you could share some details there when you get a chance.


thank you! 🍻
It’s a Woodland Mills WC-68. https://woodlandmills.com/wc68-6-pto-wood-chipper/. I co-own it with my brother. It doesn’t have an hour meter so hours on it is a swag, but I’ve probably put 150 hours on it. My brother has probably put another 50 on it for a total of around 200 hours.

So far, I’ve touched up the reversible blades with a diamond hone, but I haven’t needed to turn them around or have them professionally sharpened yet. Set the bed plate gap after. May not have been necessary. That was a bit of a trick being the gap you’re measuring is at the bottom of the flywheel housing, but not too difficult after planing out a board to the right thickness to act as an unusually long feeler gauge.

Replaced the rear pillow block bearing on the flywheel because I very stupidly pulled the wrong lever of the three to the right of the seat without looking, which pulled the hydraulic toplink on the tractor all the way in, bottomed out the PTO shaft, and thankfully busted the housing for the chipper bearing rather than busting the tractor’s PTO. Called Woodland Mills and had a replacement bearing in less than a week for less than I could buy the bearing from Grainger or McMaster Carr (it’s a pretty generic pillow block bearing).

PTO hp on my HST L4701 is listed in the manual at 37.8. Woodland Mills specs the chipper for 20 to 50 hp and 6” maximum material size. IME on my L, it will chip anything that fits in it, despite having only 37.8 hp. I do not run dirty/sandy wood through it or wood that may have imbedded metal (such as old wooden fence posts). The blades have to be paper slicing sharp to work correctly,

My only prior significant experience with a chipper was one I used long ago when I worked for a tree service for a couple years back in the late 80’s. That one was a 110hp Eager Beaver hydraulic feed with two infeed rollers and 12” capacity. The WC-68 has only one infeed roller, but I’ve found feeding the WC-68 to be very much the same as the old Eager Beaver. There’s a little bit of technique to getting a large thing started but it’s not difficult to figure out. Stand on the left side when feeding because if it kicks when the branch hits the flywheel, it kicks to the right. To avoid plugging the chip chute, slow the feed rate for sticky green stuff like fresh pine. If chipping a long hardwood limb near full capacity, if the engine starts losing RPM, pause the infeed to let it catch up and go at it again before it lugs down much.

Don’t have any regrets. Because I’d spent a fair amount of hours with a larger hydraulic fed chipper, I had some expectations. None of the “issues” or “tricks” mentioned above is any different than running the big commercial unit from the 80’s. It has met my expectations and has not disappointed me.
 

Killer Bee

Member
May 15, 2026
72
89
18
Show-Me State
It’s a Woodland Mills WC-68. https://woodlandmills.com/wc68-6-pto-wood-chipper/. I co-own it with my brother. It doesn’t have an hour meter so hours on it is a swag, but I’ve probably put 150 hours on it. My brother has probably put another 50 on it for a total of around 200 hours.

So far, I’ve touched up the reversible blades with a diamond hone, but I haven’t needed to turn them around or have them professionally sharpened yet. Set the bed plate gap after. May not have been necessary. That was a bit of a trick being the gap you’re measuring is at the bottom of the flywheel housing, but not too difficult after planing out a board to the right thickness to act as an unusually long feeler gauge.

Replaced the rear pillow block bearing on the flywheel because I very stupidly pulled the wrong lever of the three to the right of the seat without looking, which pulled the hydraulic toplink on the tractor all the way in, bottomed out the PTO shaft, and thankfully busted the housing for the chipper bearing rather than busting the tractor’s PTO. Called Woodland Mills and had a replacement bearing in less than a week for less than I could buy the bearing from Grainger or McMaster Carr (it’s a pretty generic pillow block bearing).

PTO hp on my HST L4701 is listed in the manual at 37.8. Woodland Mills specs the chipper for 20 to 50 hp and 6” maximum material size. IME on my L, it will chip anything that fits in it, despite having only 37.8 hp. I do not run dirty/sandy wood through it or wood that may have imbedded metal (such as old wooden fence posts). The blades have to be paper slicing sharp to work correctly,

My only prior significant experience with a chipper was one I used long ago when I worked for a tree service for a couple years back in the late 80’s. That one was a 110hp Eager Beaver hydraulic feed with two infeed rollers and 12” capacity. The WC-68 has only one infeed roller, but I’ve found feeding the WC-68 to be very much the same as the old Eager Beaver. There’s a little bit of technique to getting a large thing started but it’s not difficult to figure out. Stand on the left side when feeding because if it kicks when the branch hits the flywheel, it kicks to the right. To avoid plugging the chip chute, slow the feed rate for sticky green stuff like fresh pine. If chipping a long hardwood limb near full capacity, if the engine starts losing RPM, pause the infeed to let it catch up and go at it again before it lugs down much.

Don’t have any regrets. Because I’d spent a fair amount of hours with a larger hydraulic fed chipper, I had some expectations. None of the “issues” or “tricks” mentioned above is any different than running the big commercial unit from the 80’s. It has met my expectations and has not disappointed me.
thank you for taking the time to share! I'll try posting in skeet's thread as well for those watching there. 🍻
 
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