Kubota T1880 Won't Drive

[Hugo Habicht]

"Mohawk" refers to the strip in the center that isn’t being cut.
How can I correct this issue?

If this pattern is not due to the driving (like in my case, typically ) it could be that wrong blades had been fitted, like ones for a narrower cutting deck. The width cut by each blade should overlap each other. I do not think the blade height is adjustable, only the deck height, so all blades together.

Check the blade part number and its length from the Kubota parts catalogue and compare it to the length of the blades fitted. You should be able to do that without removing the deck, but make sure to put wooden blocks under the edge of the deck, never trust the lifting mechanism.

 

[Pat_USA]

If this pattern is not due to the driving (like in my case, typically ) it could be that wrong blades had been fitted, like ones for a narrower cutting deck. The width cut by each blade should overlap each other. I do not think the blade height is adjustable, only the deck height, so all blades together.

Check the blade part number and its length from the Kubota parts catalogue and compare it to the length of the blades fitted. You should be able to do that without removing the deck, but make sure to put wooden blocks under the edge of the deck, never trust the lifting mechanism.

I hired someone to work on this mower 2 yrs ago; he removed the blades, sharpened them, and reinstalled them. After the repair, it would not cut in the center, so I assumed the blades might need to be positioned in a specific way.

 

[Pat_USA]

Russell King - Thank you for providing the details of the repairs along with the photos.
I'm an older woman without much experience or physical strength. Unfortunately, I don’t have friendly neighbors or friends nearby. If I can’t handle the repair myself, I’ll hire someone since I know where the problem is. I messaged a guy who repairs small engines after the incident, and he quoted $160–$275. I’ve been a little tired today, but whenever I work on it, I’ll take some pictures and update the results here.

 

[Russell King]

That sounds like a reasonable amount for the work being done.

Glad you have access to someone who can do the work.

And you are welcome for the advice/answers.

 

[Caden]

@Pat_USA , I think you are capable of doing the belt job, but if you are more comfortable hiring it out I would guess anything under $200 is reasonable. Take your time when doing the work and be wary any time you are dealing with a spring under tension.

I had been involved with this thread earlier but got busy, so I will try to answer a few of the new questions I saw reading through.

Yes, any of the V belts you likely can buy most auto / agriculture/ small engine stores. They can measure the belt to do this, so take the old belts when you go.

For the issue of the blades. I would recommend you start by buying a new set. This will solve any issues related to blades sharpened incorrectly, broken, chipped or bent. More than likely this will correct the problem but either way it is probably due based on your timeline of past service. Dull blades always push over grass in the middle.

It is also important to remember that on a mower like that, the two blades are can spin totally independent of each other but manage to not hit one another. The reason the desk is angled so that one blade is further forward than the other is so that they can overlap in a way, without hitting each other. Because of this, when making turns or cutting in a curve, sometime grass can mange to "slip between" the blades without being cut. This is not a flaw unique to your mower but rather a common issues among all brands. Just something to think about when you need to follow a curve while mowing.

Let us know what you end up doing, and good luck.

 

[Pat_USA]

I checked the mower and found that the belt came off only on the top pulley by the front wheels, likely knocked off by the lug nut wrench. I tried to pull it back on, but it was impossible. Following Russell King's advice, I removed the spring on one side and was able to pull the belt over the front pulley easily without removing the deck. This method only takes a couple of minutes.
While cutting the grass, when I made a turn in the opposite direction (perhaps too sharp, as I usually drive in one direction), the belt slipped off again, so I put it back on. After using the mower for an hour & driving more careful after the first incident, I lowered the cutting height for the 2nd. round.

Shortly after resuming, the belt slipped off again. This time the pulley was hot (from using) and the belt felt tight with less slack than before. Even after allowing the mower to cool down, I couldn't pull the belt over the pulley as easily as I had previously. Could anyone explain why this might be happening?

I also noticed the belt might be twisted and not properly seated in the groove as it should be (V-belt). This could be why the belt keeps slipping off. I tried to twist it back into place while reinstalling, but it was unsuccessful because the belt isn’t as slack as before and it's difficult to twist it back into the correct position.

Since I didn't remove the deck so I don't have the picture. I tried to remove the front tire for easy access to the front pulley but I can't simply pull the tire off. Do I need to use a hammer to knock it out? (pic 1 & 2).

I checked the blades, it's 21.5" Kubota blade (42" model), I have the problem of the grass uncut in the center like Mohawk hair after a guy sharpened the blades & installed it back 2 yrs ago. What did he do wrong? How to install the blades correctly? (pic 3 & 4). I might use the mower 10-20 hrs per year, or even less hours when I have a problem with the mower.

To remove the deck, do I simply pull out each pin at 4 locations--2 on each side (pic 5 & 6)?
For pic 5, which one is a better choice, pin 1 or 2?

 

[Russell King]

I assume you put the spring back in place. I also assume that the belt has fallen off other pulleys and is stretched out now so will probably continue to come off repeatedly. I think you need to replace that drive belt now.

To remove the front wheel (see the diagram below) it looks like you are mostly there.
Remove the cotter pin (done).
Remove the washer (#20)
Jack up the front of the tractor. Block it up with wooden blocks and set the tractor back on the blocks with the tire not touching the ground.
There is a plastic bushing (bearing) that is stuck into the wheel hub (item #90). Get it out if possible but don’t damage it. I would try to use a flat blade screw driver to get between the wheel and bushing to pry it off. Don’t stab yourself in the hand with the screwdriver.
Grab the wheel and tire and pull it off
If it is stuck, then you can use a piece of wood against the rim and try to hammer it off. If you have a rubber mallet you can use that without the wood. Just don’t damage the steel rim by hitting it and bending it.



To remove the deck, lower it so the weight is on the deck wheels and pull the pins that you labeled #2 (lower pins through the orange parts. There may be some type of clip on the far side (inside) of the pins that needs to be removed but I can’t tell what is there. You might want to try to get a picture of the side where the pins sticks out and see what they have put there to keep the pins from falling out. If you have the owner’s manual, that would tell you how to remove the deck.

Once the pins are out, then set the deck height to maximum height to lift the grey arms out of the way. Then pull the deck out towards the side. Sometimes it has to be one side of the tractor and finagled between the front and rear tires. You may want to use some sort of rope or a ratchet strap to pull it out. Don’t fall backwards and hurt yourself when pulling it out. It is pretty heavy.

 

[Caden]

I also assume that the belt has fallen off other pulleys and is stretched out now so will probably continue to come off repeatedly. I think you need to replace that drive belt now.

Agreed.
This was the benefit to pulling the deck, to see the rest of the belt routing. At this point I would see about getting a new belt.

On the other hand, You may be on to something if the belt is twisted. Again it is kinda necessary to get under there to see the whole length of the belt to correct this.

For the deck. You are correct, pull pin you labeled 2. Good needle nose pliers are your best friend for pulling a deck.

The blade picture is confusing me. Are we looking through the discharge opening?
Assuming that when you are sitting on the mower, the grass comes out to your right side: If this is the case the blades would spin clockwise when looking down from the top.
Again assuming this is the case, it looks like the back of the blade is doing the cutting.

Maybe it is me misinterpreting the picture - Because I have never encountered that senario before. What do you think @Russell King ?

 

[Russell King]

@Caden may be onto something.

I have no idea how the blades cut but looking at the Kubota USA website there is a right side blade part number and a left side blade part number. There are also two types of blade sets, one called a “blower blade”, the other just “blade”.

I don’t see that the blades are mounted upside down but perhaps they are mounted on the wrong side of the mower.

@Pat_USA please take a picture through the discharge opening showing the leading edge of the blade just as it gets to the discharge chute or just a picture of the front of a blade and the rear of the blade to show the cutting edges. If you can locate any stamping (part numbers, top, bottom, RH or LH then take pictures of that also and note what side of the mower deck it is mounted. (By the way that may be difficult to impossible since it is so close to the ground.)

You could also buy a new set of blades and have the dealer mark them carefully as to right hand top and bottom and left hand top and bottom (assuming they are not marked well). Then compare them to how the blades are currently mounted.

@Caden - can you look at the illustrated parts list of the mower deck and see if that helps you understand how the blades are mounted? It didn’t help me but you may be able to spot a blade detail that I don’t “see” to figure it out.

 

[Caden]

I have no idea how the blades cut but looking at the Kubota USA website there is a right side blade part number and a left side blade part number. There are also two types of blade sets, one called a “blower blade”, the other just “blade”.

I don’t see that the blades are mounted upside down but perhaps they are mounted on the wrong side of the mower.

I'm thinking the same @Russell King .

I was just looking back at the digram @Bee-Positive posted on page one of this thread. Look very carefully at the deck belt routing. I followed the routing and it make the spindles counter rotate. Personally I've never seen this on a side discharge but everything is making sense now!

The blades swapped from their correct position I think. Another picture to confirm would be nice.

And also I see now that the cutting edge is not shiny like it would be if they were working as intended.

 

[whitetiger]

Your blades appear to be on the wrong sides. Looking into the discharge opening, the sharp edge should be facing the rear.
Typically, on a Kubota mower with RH & LH blades, one blade is painted black with the other painted red.

 

[Russell King]

@whitetiger
Please confirm my understanding of the blade rotation! One blade rotates clockwise and the other rotates counterclockwise based on the right hand and left hand threaded bolts.

I guess that when looking at post #11 the belt around the shaded pulley wraps around the upper side of that pulley making it rotate counterclockwise while the clear pulley would rotate clockwise (assuming the engine rotates clockwise, and that I followed the rotation correctly).

And I am also assuming that the hole through each blade is the same size/shape even though the bolt threads are different. Please confirm that also if you could.

 

[whitetiger]

@whitetiger
Please confirm my understanding of the blade rotation! One blade rotates clockwise and the other rotates counterclockwise based on the right hand and left hand threaded bolts.

I guess that when looking at post #11 the belt around the shaded pulley wraps around the upper side of that pulley making it rotate counterclockwise while the clear pulley would rotate clockwise (assuming the engine rotates clockwise, and that I followed the rotation correctly).

And I am also assuming that the hole through each blade is the same size/shape even though the bolt threads are different. Please confirm that also if you could.

Correct on all 3!!