I don't remember hearing the results of the armrest contestNow we have a “whose stones are bigger” argument going on. Have to break out the popcorn and beer for this.
What did you do to or on your Kubota today?
- Thread starter gurn
- Start date
Because there were no results, just claims of this and that. Once questioned and asked for data they're never to be seen again.I don't remember hearing the results of the armrest contest
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I too am building a shed gravel pad. Your’s looks like it is a dug down pad and will have some lumber around the perimeter and then a wall at the back and sides.
Where mine is going is a similar situation but slopes diagonally across the pad diagonally. The slope is pretty good and unfortunately I need the door at the low end of the slope so I am trying to build up the low end and dig down the high end. I haven’t done a pad like that before, I usually just do a build up pad since I don’t have a good way to dig like your FEL. I do have a rear mounted dirt scoop but my small L185F lacks a lot of digging power due to traction.
Would you be able to take and post some pictures of the lumber around the perimeter as you build it out? I am unsure if you need to have the lumber as a solid perimeter at the top of the gravel or if the gravel can just be against the dirt on the dug down area (like the far wall in you picture). I realize that the lumber has to be across the wall above the gravel but if you were putting 6-7 inches of gravel back there would you need two timbers or only the top 3.5 inches of gravel touching the perimeter lumber (assuming the lumber is 4x6).
FWIW I built a 10' X 16' shed on a slight side hill - don't know if it fits your situation though. Our ground is very solid and rocky and we also have deep frost, but I didn't want to dig. I removed what little sod there was at the corners and the centers of the long walls and used flat stones set on the ground to make a set of 6 level "posts". I built the sill from 6 X 6 Pressure Treat with some 45* 2 X 6 braces dadoed into the corners. Then I filled the box with 3/4" stone. That was 21 years ago. The shed is still there and still straight as an arrow.
A couple years ago
gg
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
@g_man
Thank you for the information. The ground where I am building is poor in support since it is clay and some gravel. Not too difficult to dig, I just hate digging.
I see that on the left side you built up the site with gravel (unsupported by any lumber). I suppose that you eventually covered that with dirt or the grass is aggressive enough to grow through the gravel.
My questions are more about the right side and if you had dug it down to be level with the left side of the site. If you had to dig down 10 inches on the right would you have used two 6x6 timbers or just the top 6x6 with the remaining 4 inches just an earthen wall to contain the gravel?
Did you tamp the gravel or just dump it out?
In your situation I would have started out with a timber in contact with the ground on the left to contain the gravel, stacked another timber on top of it to level it with a timber that is sitting on the surface on the right side. There might be a little digging down on the right side to achieve a level situation For the gravel surface.
Then along the front and rear the timbers would be leveled and die out into the slope. A second timber would be added to join the leveled lumber on the right and left ends.
So in that case the gravel is completely contained inside the top perimeter of timbers.
Thank you for the information. The ground where I am building is poor in support since it is clay and some gravel. Not too difficult to dig, I just hate digging.
I see that on the left side you built up the site with gravel (unsupported by any lumber). I suppose that you eventually covered that with dirt or the grass is aggressive enough to grow through the gravel.
My questions are more about the right side and if you had dug it down to be level with the left side of the site. If you had to dig down 10 inches on the right would you have used two 6x6 timbers or just the top 6x6 with the remaining 4 inches just an earthen wall to contain the gravel?
Did you tamp the gravel or just dump it out?
In your situation I would have started out with a timber in contact with the ground on the left to contain the gravel, stacked another timber on top of it to level it with a timber that is sitting on the surface on the right side. There might be a little digging down on the right side to achieve a level situation For the gravel surface.
Then along the front and rear the timbers would be leveled and die out into the slope. A second timber would be added to join the leveled lumber on the right and left ends.
So in that case the gravel is completely contained inside the top perimeter of timbers.
You rock guys are lightweights…these are the rocks I got outa digging just a little area to widen my trailer storage…
Sawdust&Shavings
Active member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX1870,LA203A,BX6315,BX2767,RCK48-18BX,GCK60-23BX
In my case the shed is supported mainly by the 6 flat stones. The thickness of the stones vary to make a level plane to lay the sill on. When I finished the sill the right side was pretty much at ground level and the left side was up about 8" off the ground. I dumped in 3/4" washed stone and worked the edges so that it filled in under the sill and ran out on the outside. I filled to the top of the sill and just raked it level - no tamping. Washed stone is more or less self packing and very little settling will occur. They are there to act as a floor and keep the shed from shifting around. Also they are dry and don't hold moisture. I just left it alone and the outside stones got covered with natural debris over the years.
I'm not a civil engineer but if I had dug it out to make a level depression rather than setting it above ground I would fill the depression with a material that packs, like gravel, and then pack it really well. I can't see the need to double up timbers below grade. On the other hand, I would not want the shed below grade either. If I understand what you have I would fill the area in front of where the door entrance is to bring it up to the shed floor height and make the entire pad above the present grade. There must be some common practices in your area. Find out what the locals do would be your best bet.
gg
Last edited:
I already have the shed on the other side of the house. I didn't dig down but instead added fill to build up the ground. I'm tracking it in as I add it so it should be a solid base. I'll top it with gravel when I get to the end.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Oh I see that the two bare dirt pictures are different places! I thought the pile of dirt was a dig out but see that it was a supply of dirt to level the new site.
Correct. I got 12-13 tandem dump truck loads from the province last summer from a ditching project. I'd say I used at least 1.5 loads for this project.
MILF (Mowing Is Lotsa Fun) - but, other things are too. The loader normally gets removed as soon as the task it was mounted for is completed. It didn't happen on Wednesday. This morning while puttering around I noticed the grass could use a trim by tomorrow. Then I remembered the loader was still on the tractor.
Since the tractor needed to be jockeyed around to remove the loader, may as well move some of the bigger pieces of dead trees from the fence row to the brush pile. OK. Drop the bucket and grab the forks. The forks went on easier than before thanks to the plasma cutter exercise the other day.
Sure was nice not handling the junk with poison ivy growing on it. Only a few CAREFUL saw cuts were needed. Everything else was either already detached or was ripped loose with the forks.
Today was a welcome change from yesterday when I spent too long welding in a tight spot under the truck. At the time it seemed like skipping the hood and using the "Close eyes/Squeeze trigger" method was a good plan. In retrospect it was not. There were two problems. A few times the Close Eyes/Squeeze trigger weren't well coordinated. This morning one eye felt like it had sand in it. Feels better as the day goes on. Second issue is I've been using PPE religiously for so long I didn't remember how easy a face can get "sunburn".
Since the tractor needed to be jockeyed around to remove the loader, may as well move some of the bigger pieces of dead trees from the fence row to the brush pile. OK. Drop the bucket and grab the forks. The forks went on easier than before thanks to the plasma cutter exercise the other day.
Sure was nice not handling the junk with poison ivy growing on it. Only a few CAREFUL saw cuts were needed. Everything else was either already detached or was ripped loose with the forks.
Today was a welcome change from yesterday when I spent too long welding in a tight spot under the truck. At the time it seemed like skipping the hood and using the "Close eyes/Squeeze trigger" method was a good plan. In retrospect it was not. There were two problems. A few times the Close Eyes/Squeeze trigger weren't well coordinated. This morning one eye felt like it had sand in it. Feels better as the day goes on. Second issue is I've been using PPE religiously for so long I didn't remember how easy a face can get "sunburn".
Attachments
Chim,
You forgot the turn head & close mouth steps to your "Close eyes/Squeeze trigger" method!
That way only one side of your face gets burnt.
Seriously, for times like that for tacks or short welds, I'll use my gloved off hand to cover the nozzle to provide some shielding to my body but still use the "Close eyes, turn head, close mouth" method.
Hope you didn't burn yourself up too bad.
You forgot the turn head & close mouth steps to your "Close eyes/Squeeze trigger" method!
That way only one side of your face gets burnt.
Seriously, for times like that for tacks or short welds, I'll use my gloved off hand to cover the nozzle to provide some shielding to my body but still use the "Close eyes, turn head, close mouth" method.
Hope you didn't burn yourself up too bad.
Nice! Are those installed on the original seat.
Where are they available, I would like a pair.
Pretty much OK now. Face isn't too scorched and the eye feels more normal. At least forgetting to turn my head eliminated getting a two-tone face. Many years ago both eyes got it worse while wearing a hood. Note of advice - don't weld a utility trailer frame under a large white open garage door. Them nasty rays can sneak in from the back unless you have a monkey hood
Kubota part # L2280. I purchased online from Coleman Equipment. $105 shipped to my door. Less expensive than Messicks, cheaper shipping too. They bolt directly to the original seat. The factory seat has dimples where they go.
Two days ago my JD Z-turn gave up the ghost on its drive motor idler pulley, pushed it into the garage with the MF ... Yesterday I had time to look at it, and figured out it was gonna be a bit to get it going again ... Nice to have options!
Looks like I need a new casting ... The belt looks good, just need a couple of parts, the bearing was starting to make noise on Saturday, I sprayed some lube on it, and got 45 minutes of cutting with it, can't hear it with ear plugs in, or blades engaged, looks like it has been "complaining" for a while though!
So ... I put the new spacers and bushing on the FDR finish mower and adjusted it down to 4" and greased it ... Normally cut the grass by the house at 3.25" ...
Since I had buzzed the lawn around the house back last Saturday, I wanted to hit it again before I left out yesterday afternoon ... So I only cut off about an inch or so, wasn't any rain or much growth this last week, couldn't get in and under some areas, but got the majority done ...
Looks like I need a new casting ... The belt looks good, just need a couple of parts, the bearing was starting to make noise on Saturday, I sprayed some lube on it, and got 45 minutes of cutting with it, can't hear it with ear plugs in, or blades engaged, looks like it has been "complaining" for a while though!
So ... I put the new spacers and bushing on the FDR finish mower and adjusted it down to 4" and greased it ... Normally cut the grass by the house at 3.25" ...
Since I had buzzed the lawn around the house back last Saturday, I wanted to hit it again before I left out yesterday afternoon ... So I only cut off about an inch or so, wasn't any rain or much growth this last week, couldn't get in and under some areas, but got the majority done ...
