BX 2350 hard line repair options

[Tranberg]

Good morning y'all
What are the options to repair severely leaking hydraulic lines?

When I picked up my BX2350 from the auction yesterday (Friday morning), the so-called “leak” in the description was actually a proper jet of oil shooting out from under the middle of the driver’s seat.The foreman had one of his lads add nearly a liter of oil so we could lift the front sweeper, then basically told us to load it and piss off.A much nicer mechanic who came to park the service van said it was a specific steel pipe that was leaking. He suggested cutting out the rusty bit, putting compression fittings on the steel pipe ends, and joining them with a hose.Quick question: Does anyone know the exact dimension (OD) of that pipe on a BX2350? And is this repair method considered kosher / reliable for the long term, or is it better to replace the entire pipe?

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Take the pipe out and bring it to a hydraulics shop. They can make you a replacement.

Or make it yourself. Bend the pipe to shape and fit the cutting ring connections. The parts you get here for example (plenty hydraulics online shops around): https://www.hytec-hydraulik.com/

 

[Runs With Scissors]

To me, a "proper repair” would mean replacing the line entirely,
HOWEVER:

I have been know to use compression fittings with a great amount of success in the past.

So depending on the cost, or the complexity of replacing the line, that might dictate my repair method.

For instance, if replacing that line involved splitting the tractor, and the line cost $1,000 dollars……I would be embracing the compression fitting fix.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Remove the pipe ( tie small rope on it first....)
buy new pipe from dealer
use rope to 'fish' new pipe into place

be sure to cover ends with tap to keep 'stuff' out !

 

[Trash Panda]

To me, a "proper repair” would mean replacing the line entirely,
HOWEVER:

I have been know to use compression fittings with a great amount of success in the past.

So depending on the cost, or the complexity of replacing the line, that might dictate my repair method.

For instance, if replacing that line involved splitting the tractor, and the line cost $1,000 dollars……I would be embracing the compression fitting fix.

Yeah, unless a new line is prohibitively expensive, I’d be avoiding compression fittings.

 

[Mowbizz]

What year is the BX? On my first BX 25D (year 2000 range) the same lines sprung a major leak as well…I trailered it to my dealer and surprisingly, I was a factory defect, fixed under full warranty.

 

[Tranberg]

The culprit here is that the tractor was only ever used for spreading salt, and that has taken its toll.
It's going to be a bear to get the line in and out.

Has anyone here tried replacing the old rusted-out steel hard lines with dash-6 PTFE hose (only about 0.43" OD) instead of the standard dash-5 rubber hydraulic hose (which is typically 0.65" – 0.69" OD)?I haven’t cut anything yet – I’m just thinking ahead while looking at my rusty steel lines. The PTFE option would save quite a bit of space, especially in the tighter spots on the tractor. That’s more than 0.20" (over 5 mm) slimmer per line, which could make routing a lot cleaner and easier.For around 150 bar / 2200 psi, is the thin-wall PTFE hose a good choice, or are there any practical downsides I should watch out for (flexibility, abrasion resistance, fitting compatibility, etc.)?Would appreciate any real-world experiences before I start ordering parts.

 

[Tranberg]

The standard flat rate time for replacing one of the lines is 3.8 hours, so it would take me a couple of days.

 

[Trash Panda]

The culprit here is that the tractor was only ever used for spreading salt, and that has taken its toll.
It's going to be a bear to get the line in and out.

Has anyone here tried replacing the old rusted-out steel hard lines with dash-6 PTFE hose (only about 0.43" OD) instead of the standard dash-5 rubber hydraulic hose (which is typically 0.65" – 0.69" OD)?I haven’t cut anything yet – I’m just thinking ahead while looking at my rusty steel lines. The PTFE option would save quite a bit of space, especially in the tighter spots on the tractor. That’s more than 0.20" (over 5 mm) slimmer per line, which could make routing a lot cleaner and easier.For around 150 bar / 2200 psi, is the thin-wall PTFE hose a good choice, or are there any practical downsides I should watch out for (flexibility, abrasion resistance, fitting compatibility, etc.)?Would appreciate any real-world experiences before I start ordering parts.

If the tractor really is that rusty, it sounds like replacing that hard line would be a great time to go through the unit to address any other would be weak points.

I don’t have any real-world experience in swapping between PFTE hose and traditional hydraulic hose, so hopefully someone can chime in there with some knowledge.

 

[TimAT]

If you can figure out what size line it is there is a fitting called "Swedgelok" or something like that. I've used them on 3000 psi aircraft hydralic lines for a permanent repair. Both ends have to be cut square. but once it's in place it's there for good.

 

[Tranberg]

I bit the bullet and ordered 3 new hard lines. The 5/16 ID hoses are twice as thick as the 3/8" hard lines, and would possibly be rubbing against moving parts.
I could not see exactly where the fluid was coming from in situ, nor when inspecting the lines, once I got them out.
They are badly pitted, the picture was taken after i cleaned off the loose rust with a steel scouring pad