We have a M125X that for the past year or so sometimes the loader will not work until you rev it up for a little while or park it with the loader in the air so when started you can drop it then it will work fine. After it starts working it operates normally until the machine sits for more than 6ish hours. Recently it has not had that issue however now the remotes are INOP, the 3 point functions properly and the loader works properly along with steering, PTO, etc. When the remotes are actuated you can hear the engine load but there seems to be no pressure being applied to the implement, I know the implement functions as it works on our other tractors. I don’t have a pressure gauge set available currently so I don’t have numbers. Im looking for some help on where to start with further diagnosis of what I believe is most likly the switching valves under the cab or if anyone has any other insight to possible causes.
M125X Remotes INOP loader and 3-point work
- Thread starter JaxsonFrye
- Start date
Switching valves is probably the wrong name for them, however I don’t remeber what Kubota calls them, I am referring to the hydraulic spool valves that control the remotes, I.E what the handles are connected to
I changed filters as the first part of diagnosing, but it gets serviced twice a year normally, it had 260 some hours on the filters we normally service at 300ish
They are called directional control valves or more specifically the rear remote control valves.
Since everything else works and the tractor loads up when you operate the control valve you appear to have system pressure at the valve.
I would suspect one of the quick couplers on the valve is not working. Are you sure they are the same type as on the other tractor?
Dan
I know they should be the same as we use an assortment of differant hay and manure and feed implements across our three 125-150 horse tractors for years and never had an issue before now. Would it be a bad call to go ahead and replace the quick couplings on the tractor just to try before digging into the valves, two of them have small leaks anyways so they are on the to do list.
I would not "dig into the valves".
I would test the valve and couplers before doing anything. Here is a picture of the remotes on a M125x. Do you have one or two sets?
Have you tried both sets? Seems highly unlikely both would be bad but stranger things have happened.
Dan
Then test them
- Remove both female couplers from one set of pipes.
- Start tractor
- Position a bucket under the disconnected pipes
- Quickly operate remote control in one direction
- You should get oil from one of the pipes
- Operate remote control in other dieection
- You should get oil from other pipe
- Put both female couplers back on the pipes and cleanup mess
- Place a male tip on a short kength of hose.
- Plug the tlp into one of the couplers
- Put other end of the hose in your bucket
- Start trsctor
- Operate remote control to send oil to the connected coupler
- You should get oil from the hose.
- Disconnect hose and plug it into yhe other coupler.
- Operste remote control in the opposite direction
- You should get flow from the hose.
Dan
Let me guess ... Faster couplers A.K.A. garbage.
I've had zero leaks since swapping out all six Faster couplers for Summit Hydraulics Ag couplers. Of course I lose the supposed nice features that I never needed. I leave the top-n-tilt cylinders connected all the time to two pairs, and the third pair feeds the 4X multiplier. Adios Faster!
Very strange that couplers would suddenly go bad after working for more than a year, and then not just one pair but two pairs. As always I bet there's more to this.
Exactly why we test.Very strange that couplers would suddenly go bad after working for more than a year, and then not just one pair but two pairs. As always I bet there's more to this.
To test flow, couldn't you make up a hose with a male on one end and female on the other or two males, or two females, basically whatever's needed, and connect it to a set of rear remotes? You'd soon know if the oil was dead heading. You could pull a hose off an implement to do that.
Snd then what woud we know.
The procedure I laid out testz individual elements separately and you can SEE the results.
Dsn
Dan, I have no issues with your trouble-shooting approach. I'm just more inclined to start out trying things that don't require removing fittings and dumping expensive oil in a bucket.
What's your explanation for the issues with the loader that suddenly went away, and then all of a sudden there are issues with the rear remotes? Is there a connection, is the loader issue unrelated?