Hi folks; Just got my used '19 B2650HSDC and adding front and rear LED light bars. Bought the bracket kits from Paul in Canada, quite stout. Trying to figure out a good place to source the 12v. From what I can tell, the Fuse block does not have any good spot to tap into. Only solution to run a feed to the battery ?
Electrical tap into B2650HSDC Fuseblock
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Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Thanks !! I've found the the outlet is always Hot tho. FYI; Found this very cool Cigar lighter, USB / Phone Charger/ Digital 12v Display, I'm also using as a Ammeter on my B2650 dash. On the B2650 Cab, on the Dash lower right, there are two vacant square holes with covers. Used in the B3620 for Re-Gen . I'm putting toggle switches here for the F&R LED light bars. To get at these and the wiring / relays etc., yup, got to pull the steering wheel. One phillips screw center dash above LCD dash display, one bolt to just loosen under each lower dash bezel end, so not that bad. So I plan to tap into the switched F&R feed to the work light relays, so the fuses in the block will handle them, and accessible. A 21" LED bar is about a 6 amp draw, the 35w Halogen Work-lamp is 3 amp.. A new Feed wire and ground will be run to each new LED bar. So I do not see a wiring overload at the fuse block / relay issue. Have to take the roof off to run the front wires neatly. While I'm at it, friend owns a stereo store, donated a pair of 4" co-ax speakers to replace the cheap wizzer cone ones while the roof is off. What the heck.
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Thanks Russell. If that fuse block and harness was more hidden and not so much under foot, I'd do that. Going to try to get into a feed supplying the work light relay up in the dash, so it's hidden. Have get in the dash anyway, to add two toggle switches, where the 2 square hole plugs are, lower right on this B2650 (used for re-gen on the B3620's). That means pulling the steering wheel to get the plastic hood off. My first week owning a Kubota and a used B2650HSDC, and already taking it apart.
I used to make my living installing cellular phones, back in the 80s before they all became hand-helds. I have seen plenty of installations by good installers and fly-by-night clowns, and I made a lot of money cleaning up other peoples messes.
I do NOT recommend any kind of fuse tap. They spread out the fuse terminals so that they are never right again. Yes, they can work, but that's a bush league shortcut.
Do it right. Go to the battery. It's really not that difficult.
You'll be glad you did.
Agreed. This add on fuse block I would get from Blue Sea Systems, Marine Quality, stainless terminals , for the tractor or my RV. As my first Kubota (used '19 B2650HSDC), glad I downloaded the PDF Parts and service manuals. Need to pull the steering wheel and plastic dash cover, to see what room is there to mount a relay. Like to use the switched 12v. "ignition on" to enable the relays for the Aux F&R LED Bar lights, as done for the factory Work Lights.
I'm a fan of Blue Sea Systems and have added quite a lot of their stuff to my boat. However, for automotive applications I prefer and use Painless Wiring. They have combination 12V constant and 12V ignition distribution blocks with relays and in multiple sizes. I have their kits in my F-250 and Jeep TJ to run all manner of accessories including lights, audio systems, etc. They've very well made and very durable.
CirKit Boss Auxiliary Fuse Block/3 Circuits (1 Constant 12V – 2 Ignition 12V) Part No 70103
Other three circuit CirKit Boss®™ kits available: 70113 - Three ignition-hot circuits with a maximum total amperage handling of 40 Amps. 70103 - Non-weatherproof version of 70203. 70203- Provides one 30 Amp constant hot and two 20 Amp ignition hot circuits. 70213 - Weatherproof version of...
painlessperformance.com
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Yes, Thanks All !! Even tho a huge brite 6K LED lite bar is hard to miss leaving it on, still a good practice to have devices like that on the ign. key. That smaller 3 fuse block is nice. I bought from "Painless Wiring Products". Great supplier.I was going to suggest adding an "ignition on" 12vdc auto relay to feed your terminal block. But the kit above from @McMXi post includes it. That's a nice kit! Might have to remove my old relay and install that kit for a much cleaner install.
Corrected to show the kit I have.I was going to suggest adding an "ignition on" 12vdc auto relay to feed your terminal block. But the kit above from @McMXi post includes it. That's a nice kit! Might have to remove my old relay and install that kit for a much cleaner install.
This is the kit I have in my F-250. It has three 12V constant and four 12V ignition circuits. It also comes with a rubber cap that fits over the fuses. Oh, and I don't use crimp connectors for anything. I solder and heat shrink.
CirKit Boss Auxiliary Fuse Block/7 Circuits/Weatherproof (3 Constant – 4 Ign.) Part No 70207
Other three circuit CirKit Boss®™ kits available: 70113 - Three ignition-hot circuits with a maximum total amperage handling of 40 Amps. 70103 - Non-weatherproof version of 70203. 70203- Provides one 30 Amp constant hot and two 20 Amp ignition hot circuits. 70213 - Weatherproof version of...
painlessperformance.com
I think there's some confusion here. You're thinking of a wrap-around tap-
Where the add-a-circuit uses the same size blades as the existing fuse so there's no spreading out of terminals that you're talking about.
Yes, you are correct. Those add-a-circuit gizmos don't damage anything, but they can overload the existing wiring TO the fuse block.
Better than the others, but still not great. If you are doing a permanent addition, why not do it right?