Bx2200 starting issue

[Uncle Alan's Yard]

I have a issue starting my BX2200

I think the problem is the fuel selinoid but I'm not sure.

It cranks but doesn't run

When I remove the fuel selinoid it runs.

With the fuel selinoid pulled off, the pin goes in but when key go run position, the pin comes back out.

I'm thinking it could be a bad ignition as well.

Some say safety switch, but it still cranks over. So if it was a safety switch it wouldn't crank at all correct?

 

[Russell King]

You have the facts correct.

Test why it is not holding in place. I believe there are two coils involved- a pull in coil and a hold coil. The hold coil should hold it in place after the pull in coil gets it there.

See if and how voltage is being supplied to the solenoid depending on the key position and terminal selected (I think you may have at least 3 wires, maybe 4 to solenoid.

You can find a Work Shop Manual at Kubotabooks dot com that will give you help in troubleshooting this. It could be some relay or computer box that is the problem.

 

[Uncle Alan's Yard]

You have the facts correct.

Test why it is not holding in place. I believe there are two coils involved- a pull in coil and a hold coil. The hold coil should hold it in place after the pull in coil gets it there.

See if and how voltage is being supplied to the solenoid depending on the key position and terminal selected (I think you may have at least 3 wires, maybe 4 to solenoid.

You can find a Work Shop Manual at Kubotabooks dot com that will give you help in troubleshooting this. It could be some relay or computer box that is the problem.

Thank you. I have 3 wires. I put a test light on the plug on each wire while running, I get no light on all three wires while running. It's there a way I can use my volt meter? (I'm not voltmeter expert lol)

 

[Russell King]

First when you reply to a post, please type your message below the last time you see QUOTE in some brackets or your post is hard to see and then when I reply there is no text (As shown above).

Here is how it would look if done correctly.

Thank you. I have 3 wires. I put a test light on the plug on each wire while running, I get no light on all three wires while running. It's there a way I can use my volt meter? (I'm not voltmeter expert lol)

Not a big deal, I just want you to know and the answer to your question is below.

The test light is fine it indicates that there is power or no power. But you would use a voltmeter the same way as a test light and be able to see a voltage reading to see what value is there.

Now how you use either is questionable with three wires! I assume that one of those three wires is a ground and the other two are positive voltage wires. So I would connect the ground wire of the meter to the ground wire in the connector and turn the key to run. Read voltage or light lights up. If no voltage or light then put positive lead on other terminal. Read meter and see voltage or light up.

Then do same test with the key held in the crank position. Someone else will be handy to have on the key switch!

If none of that results in any voltage readings (or light on) then I would move the meter/light ground wire to the battery negative terminal and do both the run position and start position tests again and this time probe all three wires for voltage or light on situation.

If you never get a voltage reading then you have a problem with the tractor side, possibly a bad fuse or mouse eaten wiring or a bad computer. If you get voltages then the solenoid is probably bad. You should also know which terminal is pull in (start position) and hold in (run position).

Test solenoid by attaching the ground wire (or case?) to ground and apply voltage to the correct terminal for pull in or hold the plunger in and see if the hold coil will hold it in (or out which ever way it is supposed to be).

But get the WSM to be sure how to test it really!

 

[Uncle Alan's Yard]

First when you reply to a post, please type your message below the last time you see QUOTE in some brackets or your post is hard to see and then when I reply there is no text (As shown above).

Here is how it would look if done correctly.


Not a big deal, I just want you to know and the answer to your question is below.

The test light is fine it indicates that there is power or no power. But you would use a voltmeter the same way as a test light and be able to see a voltage reading to see what value is there.

Now how you use either is questionable with three wires! I assume that one of those three wires is a ground and the other two are positive voltage wires. So I would connect the ground wire of the meter to the ground wire in the connector and turn the key to run. Read voltage or light lights up. If no voltage or light then put positive lead on other terminal. Read meter and see voltage or light up.

Then do same test with the key held in the crank position. Someone else will be handy to have on the key switch!

If none of that results in any voltage readings (or light on) then I would move the meter/light ground wire to the battery negative terminal and do both the run position and start position tests again and this time probe all three wires for voltage or light on situation.

If you never get a voltage reading then you have a problem with the tractor side, possibly a bad fuse or mouse eaten wiring or a bad computer. If you get voltages then the solenoid is probably bad. You should also know which terminal is pull in (start position) and hold in (run position).

Test solenoid by attaching the ground wire (or case?) to ground and apply voltage to the correct terminal for pull in or hold the plunger in and see if the hold coil will hold it in (or out which ever way it is supposed to be).

But get the WSM to be sure how to test it really!

Thanks! After reading your reply, I feel it's on the tractor side because I tried testing the plug like your said. I left out the tractor under my deck this winter. So I'm guessing moisture got in somewhere. I'm going to try the fuel selinoid on the battery to see. But I'm a hunch is another issues between the ignition and the fuel selinoid plug. Thank you again for the input and link to the work book.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Test light is fine:
One wire is ground.
One wire hold will have power anytime the key is in run or start.
One wire will only have power in start.

 

[Henro]

Small points but don’t be confused by the drawing showing two different circuits for the stop circuit. The 905 is the BX 2200. I believe the other one is the BX 1800 (the 722). I don’t know why they put both of those circuits on one diagram without calling out the difference.

The way the BX 2200 solenoid works is it has two coils. One coil is energized when you turn the key to the own position and it’s not a real strong magnetic coil, but it’s strong enough to hold the pin in so the tractor will run. But it’s not strong enough to move the armature by itself. When you turn the key to the start position the other stronger coil causes the armor to move and push the pin in, and once it’s moved in the coil that is energized the whole time the key is in the on position, has enough strength to hold it in.

Several years ago, I bought a cheap replacement off of eBay and it’s been working fine. This one alternative for parts. I don’t believe this was mentioned up above in detail, but if it was apologize for the repeat.

From your description, it sounds like the hold coil is not working properly. Once the pin moves in to push the rack in the injector pump or whatever it pushes, it should stay in that position until the key is turned off.