Repair case where tie rod (ball joint) connects?

TheOldHokie

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I installed a new one, added a washer on the bottom. Tightened it real good. Was solid for about 2 days (16ish hours). Now sloppy again. May take off and add some shims as suggested. When they are new they are tight and easy to tighten the nut on. But once they are used and loosen up, how do you get the nut tight without the stud spinning?
The stud is a self locking taper. It spins because the matching female taper is damaged. The stud wont lock and loosens with use. Life would be a lot easier and probably cheaper if you bought a new case half.

Dan
 
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Scm

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Life would be a lot easier and probably cheaper if you bought a new case half
Not really. $950 for the two. I would have to join the slave class, work for at least a month to make that, after the government steals their "fair share". Then I would also be a month behind on growing food. Which would mean I would have to work more just to buy the food I could not grow that would take us through the year.
 

TheOldHokie

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Not really. $950 for the two. I would have to join the slave class, work for at least a month to make that, after the government steals their "fair share". Then I would also be a month behind on growing food. Which would mean I would have to work more just to buy the food I could not grow that would take us through the year.
You have already spent close to $300 and its no closer to being fixed. In fact its worse and getting "worser." But by all means keep on saving money.

Dan
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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This thread has spun out into a political debate, one more political commentary and thread will be closed and some will take a vacation!
 

Hugo Habicht

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I installed a new one, added a washer on the bottom. Tightened it real good. Was solid for about 2 days (16ish hours). Now sloppy again. May take off and add some shims as suggested. When they are new they are tight and easy to tighten the nut on. But once they are used and loosen up, how do you get the nut tight without the stud spinning?
Is the conical part now protruding under the axle part? In this case the nut and washer sits on the tie rod part without pulling it further in. You have to add a washer that is bigger than the conical part and thicker than the protrusion.

On my tractor there is a flat part under the rubber where you can hold the ball part with a normal open ended spanner. I have also seen hexagonal holes in the threaded part, so you can hold it with an allen key while tightening it with a spanner.
 

Scm

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Is the conical part now protruding under the axle part? In this case the nut and washer sits on the tie rod part without pulling it further in. You have to add a washer that is bigger than the conical part and thicker than the protrusion.

On my tractor there is a flat part under the rubber where you can hold the ball part with a normal open ended spanner. I have also seen hexagonal holes in the threaded part, so you can hold it with an allen key while tightening it with a spanner.
That's a good idea. I'll look tomorrow.