Chanceywd
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Equipment
Kubota L2501DT BH77 VIRNIG URG60-CT 1950 8N WC-68
What did you do to or on your Kubota today?
- Thread starter gurn
- Start date
I've looked at DOM tubing in the past, and it's a good option for top link bushings, but the lift arm bushing sizes weren't ideal (to me), though if I had a lathe I'd have figured out a solution using DOM. I'm good with what I have now with minimal cost and effort.
I don't know what I'll need to do to the 3-point frame on the FIMCO sprayer to get it to fit the QH20 but hopefully it's fairly easy. I'll cross that bridge once the sprayer shows up.
Relocated RFM that is being repainted underneath. Started working on it under the BARE trees. Before I got to work on it again, the trees are now dropping pieces of buds on it. Moved it away from the trees.
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I made up some new hoses for the M6060 top-n-tilt today. I stopped by the local Kubota dealer yesterday and had them put 1/2" NPT fittings on one end for 1/2" Ag couplers (which I installed today) and JIC-8 on the other end. I like protective sleeves on hydraulic hoses so added them today and did my usual trick of melting the ends to prevent fraying. I would have finished the installation this afternoon if not for the dealer giving me a JIC-8 (male) to SAE-08 (male) rather than SAE-06 (male) as I'd requested. I'll have to stop by the dealer tomorrow and see if they have the correct fitting.
It's coming out good though and I'm much happier with the set up now. It only took me four years to remedy the piss poor job that someone did when the cobbled together the top-n-tilt. I'll get the last hose switched out tomorrow.
It's coming out good though and I'm much happier with the set up now. It only took me four years to remedy the piss poor job that someone did when the cobbled together the top-n-tilt. I'll get the last hose switched out tomorrow.
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Finally have a coat of paint and the sharpened (rusty) blades on the RFM. The grass is green and growing. To allow plenty of time for the paint to dry the Ford may need to fill in if the grass gets too tall.
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Picked up correct JIC-08 to SAE-06 (ORB) male to male fitting this afternoon and finished the top-n-tilt hose job. The three sets of hoses that connect to the three sets of rear remotes should never need to be disconnected now. Also, no more leaks from the Summit Hydraulics Ag couplers that I used to replace the Faster ones that had more leaks than a Welsh allotment.
Dry summer last year made the beetles very hungry, so now I have 4 large pines that have to come down. The smallest is about 20 inches at the stump, but that bugger must be at least 140 feet tall. Would have just let 'em stand and let the woodpeckers have them (along with several other beetle casualties), but one is about 30 inches at the stump, 120 feet tall, and pointed at a neighbor's house, which is only about 30 feet away. If it comes down, it'll cut his house in half. So, I opted to have a tree service drop it and three more about midway of my lot. Gonna top it and then buck it down in 10 foot sections, and I'll grind up most of the brush with the WC-68. I've been accumulating logs for a few years from other tree work I've had done, in anticipation of buying a hobby level sawmill. Turns out, they were piled under three of the 4 newly dead (within the last few months) pines, so I'm likely to have caused their demise with infested logs. I don't feel quite as bad about it, though, considering I have very few trees that don't have a large catface on them from lightning strikes or from when the property was developed (and burned off) in the 70's. So, I had to move two log piles to prepare access room for the tree service to put them down without destroying more pines around them, or injuring them and making them susceptible to beetles again this year. There were 75 logs in two piles. A few could have been moved two at a time, but I moved each one individually and restacked them in another part of the yard where beetles killed a couple large pines about 10 years ago. Kinda fun playing twister with 16-foot logs going between trees that are only 12 feet apart. I sprayed them with some stuff to kill the beetles, so maybe I won't kill any more of my trees. The run-off from about 30 surrounding acres goes across my property, so there's not much hope of leveling it for lawn/garden, so I keep it pretty natural back there other than mowing the brush a couple times each year. I don't want to just clear cut it because of the run-off ditches, which this time of year are all wet-weather streams and bogs. Slowly but surely, I'm trying to manage the runoff along the sides of the property into fewer ditches and washes so that maybe it'll be economical to put in a couple large culverts to get rid of the water that backs up in one part of the lot leaving me with a giant skeeter breeder through most of the spring and early summer. You can see a few more of the older dead pines in the background. I have to leave them because all woodpeckers are protected species in Alabama, and there's some pretty stiff fines for disturbing their home. I may knock them down this winter after the peckers are gone.
A bit of heavy lifting for the little tractor. One of the 75 logs is too heavy for the LA-535. But I grappled it from the top and kept the boom raised while I curled the grapple to get it about 10 inches off the ground. The box blade (and ballasted tires) were all I needed. I considered putting the chipper back there in preparation for the other trees coming down, but I have some other projects I need done before the tree service comes.
The grapple is a light duty LS MCG1154A. It's pretty light duty, and if you look close, you can see where I welded gussets in the teeth of the clamshell. It still gets a little snaggle toothed on occasion, but not as bad as it did without the gussets. That little dude is only about 200 pounds, so I still get nearly 1000 pounds capacity from the LA535. It'll pick up the big oak knot behind the tractor with no problems. That thing's nearly 30 inches in diameter. I saved it in anticipation of maybe making some slabs for someone to buy for a table project. It was from a very large forked water oak.
A bit of heavy lifting for the little tractor. One of the 75 logs is too heavy for the LA-535. But I grappled it from the top and kept the boom raised while I curled the grapple to get it about 10 inches off the ground. The box blade (and ballasted tires) were all I needed. I considered putting the chipper back there in preparation for the other trees coming down, but I have some other projects I need done before the tree service comes.
The grapple is a light duty LS MCG1154A. It's pretty light duty, and if you look close, you can see where I welded gussets in the teeth of the clamshell. It still gets a little snaggle toothed on occasion, but not as bad as it did without the gussets. That little dude is only about 200 pounds, so I still get nearly 1000 pounds capacity from the LA535. It'll pick up the big oak knot behind the tractor with no problems. That thing's nearly 30 inches in diameter. I saved it in anticipation of maybe making some slabs for someone to buy for a table project. It was from a very large forked water oak.
What brand paint are you using? It looks really nice!
I just picked up some rusteoluem gray farm and implement primer and their Kubota color spray cans from TSC but wondering if I should return it for something nicer. I Want to repaint the impeller area of snowblower from gravel chips.
XO Rust that i had on a shelf. I was lazy and didn't mix hardener with it this time. Brushed it on and it leveled nicely. I had cleaned it with wire brushes and hit it with Ospho about a week ago.
here it bonfire season till end of month as we burn off our winter brush / etc... we have scattered throughout the yard. Its been ongoing now for a few weeks.
then the burn bans come into play over the summer until the fall snow is upon us again.
then the burn bans come into play over the summer until the fall snow is upon us again.
Has anybody tried Line-X or a similar truck bed coating? Would require careful masking around the spindles, but otherwise...
Just wondering.
Cut the grass for the first time this year. Way too high already, but I had been away for a few weeks. The Kubota started and ran perfectly after sitting in the shed for the winter months.
It was 20°F this morning and elk were all around the house. I took some photos as I was making coffee. I had the wood burning stove going but now it's 60°F!!
This afternoon I got the box blade on the new QH20, checked the clearance of the new top-n-tilt hoses through the full range of motion and made a bunch of passes on the second driveway. A beautiful day to be out on a tractor.
This afternoon I got the box blade on the new QH20, checked the clearance of the new top-n-tilt hoses through the full range of motion and made a bunch of passes on the second driveway. A beautiful day to be out on a tractor.
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I found out a BX bucket makes a pretty handy sawhorse for cutting some rough 2x6s.
The space between the level indicator and the chain hook is just a bit bigger than a 2x6. Works great!
![Sawhorse 20260324_183232].jpg](https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/data/attachments/171/171798-cdbbf7c1c92735edc3b007b4970da06b.jpg "Sawhorse 20260324_183232].jpg")
The space between the level indicator and the chain hook is just a bit bigger than a 2x6. Works great!
If I was gonna go through that kinda trouble, I'd take the blades and spindles off the deck. Really not that much trouble once the deck is on saw-horses. No masking then, other than any threaded holes in the deck. Makes easier touch-up of the orange outer paint a lot easier, too. Most of the spindle housings I see are cast aluminum, so nothing's gonna really stick to those anyway unless it's powder coat. And even that has limited success.
I'd probably question the whole thought process of putting something that expensive in a place it will NEVER be seen and all that can happen to it is that it gets beat up with rocks/sand/sticks/pine cones, etc etc. NOTHING is going to stand up to the sandblasting that the underside of a mower deck gets. I think I'd just do some kind of cheap rubberized undercoat and just accept the fact I'm gonna have to do it again next year. I overhaul my mower deck every year anyway (mostly because it's a retail grade deck). Then again, I'm not that wacky that I want the underside of my mower deck to look like the top side of my truck. Guess we all have our priorities. To each his own.
While a truck bed line is tough, I highly doubt it would stand up to the abuse of a mower.
Even if the mower was made from some AR-400, anything you'd apply to it would likely wear off in a season. But, the metal wouldn't wear down!
Even if the mower was made from some AR-400, anything you'd apply to it would likely wear off in a season. But, the metal wouldn't wear down!
When I bought my Jeep TJ more than 25 years ago, one of the first things I did was remove the seats and carpet, throw the carpet away, sell the rear seat and apply Herculiner to the tub after a day of scuffing up the factory paint. It's held up really well over the years and still looks good and functions as intended, but for the underside of a mower ... hell no!
I've done a couple of truck beds over the years with Herculiner, and paid to have a couple of trucks sprayed, and my F-450 came with a factory spray in liner, but there's just no way it'd be a good choice for a mower. There are some coatings and/or surface treatments designed to protect metal from erosion but they'd be prohibitively expensive. I think Oshpo and paint is about the best way to go with the understanding that painting every few years might be needed. Personally I don't care about the appearance of the underside of my cutters. They'll clean up as soon as they're in the field.