Talk Me Out of Buying Aftermarket Clutch Components

[Pete Puma]

(Skip this paragraph if you don't want to hear me complain.) I'd really been hoping to get a concrete pad poured before I needed to replace the clutch on my L245DT, but Thursday I woke up to discover that in the overnight windstorm a tube on my act of desperation Vevor metal carport had buckled so I pulled everything else out from under it and was positioning the loader with pallet forks to brace it so it didn't collapse completely when the clutch went out with the tractor at a silly angle under the roof. Which then meant that when I woke up yesterday to a snow storm that lasted 24 hours the wooden box on my vintage 1954 utility trailer got completely filled with wet heavy snow, which is one of the things I bought the cheap carport to avoid. It's been a frustrating couple days.

Anyhoo... A while back I took a risk on a starter from Reliable Aftermarket Parts because if it turned out to be junk it would at least be easy to replace. But it's been great so far. Which means when I look at their clutch parts and see a disc and pressure plate for like 1/10th the OEM prices I scratch my head and wonder "Is it worth it?" I'm feeling a bit old to be as enthusiastic about replacing a clutch as younger me was, and replacing a clutch twice because I got cheap parts doesn't sound like any fun at all. The last time I replaced a clutch disc was on my old '89 Ranger, and the aftermarket one I bought at NAPA blew up after about a hundred miles. I don't want to deal with that on my tractor.

Any experiences or words of wisdom people can share?

Semi-related: Is there any advantage to doing the brakes at the same time?

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Which means when I look at their clutch parts and see a disc and pressure plate for like 1/10th the OEM prices I scratch my head and wonder "Is it worth it?"

The last time I replaced a clutch disc was on my old '89 Ranger, and the aftermarket one I bought at NAPA blew up after about a hundred miles. I don't want to deal with that on my tractor.

I think you pretty much answered your question yourself.

The more work is involved the more I am inclined to buy genuine parts, even if the expense hurts.

There is a lot of junk out there when it comes to aftermarket parts but it is often possible to get the original part from an OEM supplier as aftermarket part for a much lower price. So if I can buy a clutch from a reputable OEM supplier I would go for that.

 

[jimh406]

It's the same amount of labor to put in the non-OEM that you don't know will work or not or what the longevity looks like with non-OEM. I'm assuming the clutch components aren't that expensive. I think OEM gives you a higher likelihood of success.

 

[Pete Puma]

I think you pretty much answered your question yourself.

The more work is involved the more I am inclined to buy genuine parts, even if the expense hurts.

There is a lot of junk out there when it comes to aftermarket parts but it is often possible to get the original part from an OEM supplier as aftermarket part for a much lower price. So if I can buy a clutch from a reputable OEM supplier I would go for that.

It's the same amount of labor to put in the non-OEM that you don't know will work or not or what the longevity looks like with non-OEM. I'm assuming the clutch components aren't that expensive. I think OEM gives you a higher likelihood of success.

Yeah, you both rose to the occasion and talked me out of it. I was 99% of the way there but if someone had popped in with a counter story about how good the aftermarket clutch parts they bought were I might have listened. The price difference is enormous.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

This is one time OEM is overrated.

There are excellent sellers of aftermarket clutch components.

I have never used an OEM clutch disk or Pressure plate on any of my rebuilds and I've never had one of them fail.

 

[Pete Puma]

This is one time OEM is overrated.

There are excellent sellers of aftermarket clutch components.

I have never used an OEM clutch orr pressure plate on any of my rebuilds and I've never had one of them fail.

Any names you're willing to drop?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Clutch disk:

Clutch Plate fits Kubota B2150 B9200 L225 L235 L245 L275 L295 L2050 L2250 L2350 L2500 L2550 L2600 L2650 L2850 L3000 34220-14300 fits Kioti 66419-13400

Clutch Plate, Disc for Kioti Tractor(s) LK2554, Kubota Tractor(s) B2150, B9200, L225, L235, L245, L260, L275, L285, L295, L2050. Replaces Kioti OEM Number(s) 66419-13400, Replaces Kubota OEM Number(s) 34220-14300, 38240-14300, 66419-13400, 32240-14300.

www.tractorpartsasap.com

or

Clutch Plate Fits Kubota L2350 L2650 L2050 L2550 L245 L275 L2850 L2600

One New Aftermarket Clutch Plate Fits Kubota L2350 L2650 L2050 L2550 L245 L275 L2850 L2600 L235 KiotiFits Kioti Tractor Model: LK2554Replaces Kioti Part Number: 66419-13400Fits Kubota Tractor Models: B2150, B9200, L225, L235, L245, L260, L275, L285, L295, L2050, L2201, L2250, L2350, L2500...

www.reliableaftermarketparts.com

Pressure plate:

Pressure Plate Assembly fits Kubota B2150 B2150 L2550 L2250 L2350 L2550 L2600 L2250 L2350 L2550 L2600 L2550 L2650 34220-14503 T1060-20160 fits Kioti

Pressure Plate Assembly for Kubota Tractor(s) B2150, B2150, B9200, B9200, B9200, L235, L245, L245, L245, L275, L295, L295, L2050, L2050, L2250, L2250, L2350, L2350, L2500. Replaces Kubota OEM Number(s) 34220-14503, 34220-14500, 37300-14500, T1060-20160.

www.tractorpartsasap.com

or

Pressure Plate Assembly Fits Kubota L245 L275 34220-14503 T1060-20160

Included Part(s)Pressure Plate Assembly Fits Kubota L245 L245 L245 L2850 fits Kioti LK2554Fitment DetailsReplaces Part Number(s): 34220-14503Seller profile:tractorpartsaccessoriesllc

www.reliableaftermarketparts.com

Throw out bearing and pilot bearing, Yes OEM for these:

Part Details | Coleman Equipment

Part Details | Coleman Equipment

 

[Pete Puma]

Clutch disk:

Clutch Plate fits Kubota B2150 B9200 L225 L235 L245 L275 L295 L2050 L2250 L2350 L2500 L2550 L2600 L2650 L2850 L3000 34220-14300 fits Kioti 66419-13400

Clutch Plate, Disc for Kioti Tractor(s) LK2554, Kubota Tractor(s) B2150, B9200, L225, L235, L245, L260, L275, L285, L295, L2050. Replaces Kioti OEM Number(s) 66419-13400, Replaces Kubota OEM Number(s) 34220-14300, 38240-14300, 66419-13400, 32240-14300.

www.tractorpartsasap.com

or

Clutch Plate Fits Kubota L2350 L2650 L2050 L2550 L245 L275 L2850 L2600

One New Aftermarket Clutch Plate Fits Kubota L2350 L2650 L2050 L2550 L245 L275 L2850 L2600 L235 KiotiFits Kioti Tractor Model: LK2554Replaces Kioti Part Number: 66419-13400Fits Kubota Tractor Models: B2150, B9200, L225, L235, L245, L260, L275, L285, L295, L2050, L2201, L2250, L2350, L2500...

www.reliableaftermarketparts.com

Pressure plate:

Pressure Plate Assembly fits Kubota B2150 B2150 L2550 L2250 L2350 L2550 L2600 L2250 L2350 L2550 L2600 L2550 L2650 34220-14503 T1060-20160 fits Kioti

Pressure Plate Assembly for Kubota Tractor(s) B2150, B2150, B9200, B9200, B9200, L235, L245, L245, L245, L275, L295, L295, L2050, L2050, L2250, L2250, L2350, L2350, L2500. Replaces Kubota OEM Number(s) 34220-14503, 34220-14500, 37300-14500, T1060-20160.

www.tractorpartsasap.com

or

Pressure Plate Assembly Fits Kubota L245 L275 34220-14503 T1060-20160

Included Part(s)Pressure Plate Assembly Fits Kubota L245 L245 L245 L2850 fits Kioti LK2554Fitment DetailsReplaces Part Number(s): 34220-14503Seller profile:tractorpartsaccessoriesllc

www.reliableaftermarketparts.com

Throw out bearing and pilot bearing, Yes OEM for these:

Part Details | Coleman Equipment

Part Details | Coleman Equipment

I was just wondering what sites you found had decent stuff, but thanks for going to all the trouble of linking exact parts.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

When I had to replace the dual mass flywheel (the "Worlds Dumbest design EVER") in my truck, I decided to go “performance aftermarket”, but not because I wanted to save money.

The setup I went for was more money (much more), but it was rated for more “power”.

I looked at it from a “longevity” standpoint.

Although R@R’ing an automotive trans is a relatively simple task, I just have better things to do; So I reasoned that the “extra money” was worth it, just to not have to worry about it until the "wheels fall off”, or I die.

Not sure if the tractor world offers “performance clutch packages” though.

Just my $.02

 

[SDT]

(Skip this paragraph if you don't want to hear me complain.) I'd really been hoping to get a concrete pad poured before I needed to replace the clutch on my L245DT, but Thursday I woke up to discover that in the overnight windstorm a tube on my act of desperation Vevor metal carport had buckled so I pulled everything else out from under it and was positioning the loader with pallet forks to brace it so it didn't collapse completely when the clutch went out with the tractor at a silly angle under the roof. Which then meant that when I woke up yesterday to a snow storm that lasted 24 hours the wooden box on my vintage 1954 utility trailer got completely filled with wet heavy snow, which is one of the things I bought the cheap carport to avoid. It's been a frustrating couple days.

Anyhoo... A while back I took a risk on a starter from Reliable Aftermarket Parts because if it turned out to be junk it would at least be easy to replace. But it's been great so far. Which means when I look at their clutch parts and see a disc and pressure plate for like 1/10th the OEM prices I scratch my head and wonder "Is it worth it?" I'm feeling a bit old to be as enthusiastic about replacing a clutch as younger me was, and replacing a clutch twice because I got cheap parts doesn't sound like any fun at all. The last time I replaced a clutch disc was on my old '89 Ranger, and the aftermarket one I bought at NAPA blew up after about a hundred miles. I don't want to deal with that on my tractor.

Any experiences or words of wisdom people can share?

Semi-related: Is there any advantage to doing the brakes at the same time?

In decades past, nearly all clutches were replaced with aftermarket (rebuilt) discs and pressure plates. At the time, there were clutch remanufacturing companies in just about all cities of any size. Nearly all of these companies supplied quality parts at reasonable prices. The same can be said of starters, generators, alternators, even solenoids, but I digress.

This is no longer the case as most (all?) remanufacturers have gone the way of the doo doo bird and suppliers of new, nearly always foreign made, aftermarket parts have filled the void. At the same time, quality control has also gone the way of the doo doo bird, except in the case of suppliers of parts to OEM manufacturers, who demand such. Accordingly, the use of aftermarket parts has become a pot luck situation.

FWIW, I am not fond of A & I.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I was just wondering what sites you found had decent stuff, but thanks for going to all the trouble of linking exact parts.

Several sellers have mutiple product lines, and product variations, so easier and safer to list the exact one's you would need.

 

[Pete Puma]

Several sellers have mutiple product lines, and product variations, so easier and safer to list the exact one's you would need.

One question since I believe you've done a few of these: Do you worry about refacing the flywheel at all?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

One question since I believe you've done a few of these: Do you worry about refacing the flywheel at all?

Oh Sorry, I really forgot to say this DO NOT surface the flywheel!
If anything use an orbital sander and 120 / 80 sandpaper to clean off any surface contaminates or rust.

Milling any material off the flywheel can cause some very serious operational issues.