L2550 rear wheels stuck after clutch replacement

[Lost_Jeep]

I acquired an older L2550 (non GST) with a slipping clutch last year. Thanks to this forum and the manual, I was able to determine I had a dual stage clutch. Tractor has 4 speeds on the column with high/low lever and shuttle shift fwd/rev. After confirming adjusting the clutch didn't help, I decided to split the tractor and replace the clutch this winter. New clutch is in (as of last weekend). The drive clutch-disc friction material was worn down almost to the rivets, which explains why it would slip with any load and only wanted to move in low gear.

Now the issue: after bolting the tractor back together I discovered it wouldn't roll, and the rear tires seem to be stuck / binding. I checked that everything was in neutral and looked over the shift linkage (everything seems fine). Clutch in/out makes no difference (even after adjust clutch pedal free play). I was able to spin the clutch assembly through the access hole as I adjusted the PTO clutch to spec. With PTO in neutral the PTO shaft spins free, engage the PTO and the shaft doesn't move (with clutch in or out). I drove the tractor into the garage before replacing the clutch, so it's likely something I did, but I can't figure out what. The only thing I can think of is when reassembling the tractor, it initially didn't want to push together the last 3/4". I pulled it apart and realigned the clutch with a better DIY alignment tool, and it slid back together with relative ease. I've searched and haven't come up with much, so any ideas would be appreciated.

 

[SDT]

I acquired an older L2550 (non GST) with a slipping clutch last year. Thanks to this forum and the manual, I was able to determine I had a dual stage clutch. Tractor has 4 speeds on the column with high/low lever and shuttle shift fwd/rev. After confirming adjusting the clutch didn't help, I decided to split the tractor and replace the clutch this winter. New clutch is in (as of last weekend). The drive clutch-disc friction material was worn down almost to the rivets, which explains why it would slip with any load and only wanted to move in low gear.

Now the issue: after bolting the tractor back together I discovered it wouldn't roll, and the rear tires seem to be stuck / binding. I checked that everything was in neutral and looked over the shift linkage (everything seems fine). Clutch in/out makes no difference (even after adjust clutch pedal free play). I was able to spin the clutch assembly through the access hole as I adjusted the PTO clutch to spec. With PTO in neutral the PTO shaft spins free, engage the PTO and the shaft doesn't move (with clutch in or out). I drove the tractor into the garage before replacing the clutch, so it's likely something I did, but I can't figure out what. The only thing I can think of is when reassembling the tractor, it initially didn't want to push together the last 3/4". I pulled it apart and realigned the clutch with a better DIY alignment tool, and it slid back together with relative ease. I've searched and haven't come up with much, so any ideas would be appreciated.

Such issues can be caused when the clutch disc is installed backwards.

Unfamiliar with double clutch assemblies used in your tractor, but double clutch assemblies used in vintage Ford tractors are sold as a pre-adjusted assembly. If yours is not, could you have installed one of the discs backwards.

Of course, one should never use the bell housing bolts to pull things together and I assume that you did not.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Did you install the clutch as a complete kit or just the travel clutch disk?

 

[Lost_Jeep]

Such issues can be caused when the clutch disc is installed backwards.

Unfamiliar with double clutch assemblies used in your tractor, but double clutch assemblies used in vintage Ford tractors are sold as a pre-adjusted assembly. If yours is not, could you have installed one of the discs backwards.

Of course, one should never use the bell housing bolts to pull things together and I assume that you did not.

The one disc is captive in the assembly and the other goes between the flywheel and the assembly, I don't think it will let you install it backwards as the center hub on that disc sticks out further in 1 direction. Also, looking through the access hole with someone depressing the clutch, I can see it move and create a slight gap between the disc and assembly, so I think that's working.

Did you install the clutch as a complete kit or just the travel clutch disk?

It came as a complete kit (dual clutch assembly with both discs).

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I would pull all three shift linkages and see if you can shift the transmission manually.

 

[Chanceywd]

As NIW is saying it may be in the linkage before you split it again.

Before I get accuse of going off topic again, I just wanted to share a similar experience with a non kubota,

I have an 8n with a sherman transmission and occasionally it would lock up when changing direction. This would stall the engine when I let the clutch out.
I would mess around manually pushing it back and forth by hand and it would unlock.
One day I changed direction on a slope and there was no way move it. I had to start my search for the problem right there. I finally pulled the shifter cover and more and found one of the transmission forks the screw holding it to the rod was sheared. This allowed it to be in 2 gears at once.
It was just a dog point set screw and and safety wired but the point sheared so it wasn't obvious until a closer look.
I ground the tip off a bolt to get me going until I fixed it right.

You say this is a non hst, maybe one of your shifting forks took this time to fail?

Bill

 

[Lost_Jeep]

I had some time today after work to look at the tractor. I pulled the trans cover and checked the shift forks for trans and PTO. Everything seems good there, counter shafts spin by hand when not in gear, forks are intact and move as they should. I also double checked the linkages, they seem good (can still engage / disengage by hand with linkages disconnected). Spinning the clutch through the access hole when in gear, I noticed the back tires jostled ever so slightly and it sounds as though gears aren't fully engaged in the rear / axle, so I'm thinking my problem may be in the rear housing. I'm wondering if removing the 3-point lift arm / control valve assembly would provide access to see what going on back there?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Did it run before you did the clutch?
If it did there would be no reason the rear is be bad.

Ummm before you go any further pull up on the brake pedals and see what happens. right now they are fully engaged, so the brakes are locked.

 

[Lost_Jeep]

Did it run before you did the clutch?
If it did there would be no reason the rear is be bad.

Ummm before you go any further pull up on the brake pedals and see what happens. right now they are fully engaged, so the brakes are locked.

I drove the tractor into the garage, so it worked prior to replacing the clutch.

The brake lock isn't engaged. Pedals are just sitting down with gravity since the return springs are off, they only pull up about 3/4". Maybe it's the angle of the photo?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I drove the tractor into the garage, so it worked prior to replacing the clutch.

The brake lock isn't engaged. Pedals are just sitting down with gravity since the return springs are off, they only pull up about 3/4". Maybe it's the angle of the photo?

View attachment 168218

Then there is no need to get into the rear end.
You have something wrong on the clutch end of things.
You should be able to put the transmission in neutral and turn one of the rear wheels and watch the transmission spin the main shaft.
What happens when you pick both rear wheels off the ground?

Loosen all the connection bolts on the bellhousing and see if anything changes.

 

[Lost_Jeep]

Then there is no need to get into the rear end.
You have something wrong on the clutch end of things.
You should be able to put the transmission in neutral and turn one of the rear wheels and watch the transmission spin the main shaft.
What happens when you pick both rear wheels off the ground?

Loosen all the connection bolts on the bellhousing and see if anything changes.

I used a jack to lift the rear end, still can't spin either tire. Checked the Diff-lock and that's not engaged. I'll try loosening the bellhousing bolts tonight or tomorrow and see what happens.

 

[Fedup]

What changes when you tie up and remove the weight from the brake pedals?

 

[Russell King]

How tightly locked are the rear wheels? Is it like the brakes are locked on (zero movement) or is there some gear lash movement and no further movement?

I don’t know how long it has sat but maybe the brakes are just locked on and can’t release. I would look at the linkages and make sure that everything between the pedals and the actuator into the rear axle are actually moving.

 

[Lost_Jeep]

How tightly locked are the rear wheels? Is it like the brakes are locked on (zero movement) or is there some gear lash movement and no further movement?

I don’t know how long it has sat but maybe the brakes are just locked on and can’t release. I would look at the linkages and make sure that everything between the pedals and the actuator into the rear axle are actually moving.

Its only been sitting in the garage for a few weeks. There's some slight movement in each wheel, akin to gear lash. Doesn't seem like the brakes are stuck (the rear tires don't drag, you can wiggle one or the other and it sounds like its hitting something inside). I'm hoping to get out of work in time tomorrow to delve into it a little more.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Its only been sitting in the garage for a few weeks. There's some slight movement in each wheel, akin to gear lash. Doesn't seem like the brakes are stuck (the rear tires don't drag, you can wiggle one or the other and it sounds like its hitting something inside). I'm hoping to get out of work in time tomorrow to delve into it a little more.

The brakes are on the differential output shafts, not the axles themselves, so there will be gear lash.

With the transmission and hi-lo box in neutral, the tractor should roll even if the clutch and engine are locked up. Your problem is behind the transmission, I'd start with the brakes.

 

[Lost_Jeep]

The brakes are on the differential output shafts, not the axles themselves, so there will be gear lash.

With the transmission and hi-lo box in neutral, the tractor should roll even if the clutch and engine are locked up. Your problem is behind the transmission, I'd start with the brakes.

This got me thinking. I pushed the brakes in and set the lock, the slight tire movement / wiggle didn't change (seems like this is brake issue). I released the brakes and put a clamp on the pedals to hold them all the way up, still no change, got a strap and drug the tractor (in neutral), the brakes broke loose within a foot. Lesson learned, with the return spring off, gravity was enough on the brake pedals that the brakes stuck after sitting for a couple weeks (which surprised me).

Thank you all for the suggestions and help! Saved me from splitting the tractor again or delving into the rear. Now to get back to the reassembly. On the plus side, since it was taking longer, my wife decided to clean and repaint the tins while they were off.

 

[Chanceywd]

That is so good to hear!
Thanks for letting us know.

Bill

 

[Russell King]

The brakes are on the differential output shafts, not the axles themselves, so there will be gear lash.

With the transmission and hi-lo box in neutral, the tractor should roll even if the clutch and engine are locked up. Your problem is behind the transmission, I'd start with the brakes.

Thank you for clarifying how the brakes work. I was just assuming that was the problem and also assumed the brakes would be “at the wheel level“ so would be a tight lock with no slop.

Glad he got it fixed somewhat easily!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Good to hear.