Owned this tractor since May, 2013. 1800 hours on it. Complete replacement of A/C system by A/C mechanic this past summer. No issues for 4 months after. Replaced in line lower Rad hose heater about 2 months ago. All was well until 3 weeks ago when heater started blowing cold then warm intermittently. This is more than inconvenient as most of December has been in minus 20s and 30s with nearly 3 feet of snow. Often blows warm after idling then cold when working the tractor with 74 inch snow blower and front end loader. Lower rad hose is cold while upper rad hose is hot. Do I need to buy a vacuum filler system and, if so, what brand will fit my L5740 system? Looks like two hoses or wires going into thermostat housing. Rheostat style "dial" gauge for heater on overhead control dash. Could this be the issue? No trailer to haul this thing into the dealer and roads are bad. I'm 11 miles from dealer with 5 miles of gravel roads heavily snowed in.
Intermittent heat from heater in 2013 Kubota L5740
- Thread starter AgEnToRaNGe1954
- Start date
Is your engine producing enough heat at -30 (F or C?) degrees? Otherwise the thermostat may close and you get no heat.
Or it is malfunctioning of the A/C system, possibly due to a faulty actual temperature sensor. Controller is seeing a high temperature then and is trying to cool. Or the control dial is faulty and has intermittent contact, again, similar outcome.
Or it is malfunctioning of the A/C system, possibly due to a faulty actual temperature sensor. Controller is seeing a high temperature then and is trying to cool. Or the control dial is faulty and has intermittent contact, again, similar outcome.
Don't think the engine temperature is an issue as the gauge reads the same when the tractor is working hard as it has in past years when we were in the minus 40s. Control dial sounds like an avenue worth pursuing. I will have to look at how to remove the small overhead dash panel and access the control dial inner workings.
Thanks
P.S. We had minus 55.8 degrees Centigrade in the Yukon one day last week. This was the coldest temperature recorded in Canada in 50 years. Long range forecast calls for more very cold temps and lots of snow. We desperately need the moisture as we have had two years of drought in North Western Alberta.
Thanks
P.S. We had minus 55.8 degrees Centigrade in the Yukon one day last week. This was the coldest temperature recorded in Canada in 50 years. Long range forecast calls for more very cold temps and lots of snow. We desperately need the moisture as we have had two years of drought in North Western Alberta.
I thought more of a cabin temperature sensor, not the engine. But engine temperature gauge showing warm is good.
Do you have a workshop manual describing the A/C system and its sensors?
Do you have a workshop manual describing the A/C system and its sensors?
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
This is just a “shot in the dark” cause I have never worked on one of those.
One time I replaced a radiator hose on an Dodge Intrepid. It came back the next day with an “overheating” complaint.
Very, very, very long story short, the hose did not come with the “anti-collapse” spring installed from the factory, and I did not notice it.
It would idle forever with no problem, but when you drove it, the hose would collapse and cut off the flow of coolant and it would overheat.
Maybe something similar is happening to you, but due to the extreme cold, it is not overheating, just not circulating coolant, hence no heat?
One time I replaced a radiator hose on an Dodge Intrepid. It came back the next day with an “overheating” complaint.
Very, very, very long story short, the hose did not come with the “anti-collapse” spring installed from the factory, and I did not notice it.
It would idle forever with no problem, but when you drove it, the hose would collapse and cut off the flow of coolant and it would overheat.
Maybe something similar is happening to you, but due to the extreme cold, it is not overheating, just not circulating coolant, hence no heat?
BAP
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
2012 Kubota 2920, 60MMM, FEL, BH65 48" Bush Hog, 60"Backblade, B2782B Snowblower
With your engine idling, open your radiator cap and watch to see if there is any bubbles. Air in the system from being trapped OR from compression leaking in will cause what you are describing.
I don't know that tractor, but an Air locked heater core (if the heat is from coolant like a car) can certainly do it.
Minus 20s without wind chill? May need to block off part of the radiator. My little L likes it 1/3 blocked wien it's single digits.
I use the Schwaben vacuum tool for coolant fills on everything I own. It's priced well and works on everything I have from BMW to Yamaha.
Minus 20s without wind chill? May need to block off part of the radiator. My little L likes it 1/3 blocked wien it's single digits.
I use the Schwaben vacuum tool for coolant fills on everything I own. It's priced well and works on everything I have from BMW to Yamaha.
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Yea, those things work great.
I have this one, and although I hate dealing with coolant, this tool makes refilling any system, a little more “bearable”, and prevents “air locks”.
https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000...id=1767350172&sprefix=airlift+,aps,155&sr=8-1