When 2 Galaxies collide, are there any casualties???????

[Runs With Scissors]

Well ever since I got into this whole “3D printing” thing, I have been forced to play/practice with my computer (which I have a "natural aversion” to doing)

So after trying a few of the “Major Players” in the CAD world, @Sidekick suggested that I try Alibre, well after trying it, I decided to buy their “middle of the road” license.

I would like to build/make a "carriage stop” for the lathe, so I get my “calipers and bar napkins” out, start measuring and sketch up a “half assed” version of what I want to do.

Hmmmmmm??????……..(Here is where the "Old School galaxy collides with New School galaxy)

Then it hit me…..”Hey why dont I draw this up in Alibre, and print it out” as a sort of “proof of concept” thing, instead of actually machining it out and finding out I F’d it up AFTER I have all that time and materials wasted?"

Well I know it’s not a “novel concept” for y’all in “the industry”, but for a beginner like me……it was/is.

Well I have gotten “Ok’ish” at drawing things on the computer, so it only took me a few minutes to take my measurements and draw it up.


Here is my “concept” on my machine.

Here is the “First Iteration”.

Here is the “bottom locking” part….(note that the “pivot titty” is a wee bit small so that need to be enlarged)

It took about 35 minutes to print it out, and here it is, on the machine.

I am “absolutely blown away” by the “good fitment” of it.

I had no idea that I could have/did get the measurments this close.

Does anyone "see something” that I don’t?……………... (besides the “pivot titty”….I have already addressed that in the drawings and am printing a new one out as we speak)

 

[85Hokie]

As a 3D printer user - I find that the "INFILL" percentage is one of the most important parts of the build that are sometimes overlooked.

I made a ton of crazy stuff - and it all worked well, until the sun made it brittle or the heat of being inside the car caused problems.

What is the plastic being used? PLA? ABS? or?

 

[lynnmor]

I think that you only want contact on the angled surfaces, all others should be clearance.
If you keep it shorter (perhaps just one clamp bolt) you would have more travel, particularly useful when using a face plate.
Many stops have a micrometer type of adjustment, maybe you could come up with a dial on the stop bolt.
Put a large chamfer on the inside, top corner.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

As a 3D printer user - I find that the "INFILL" percentage is one of the most important parts of the build that are sometimes overlooked.

I made a ton of crazy stuff - and it all worked well, until the sun made it brittle or the heat of being inside the car caused problems.

What is the plastic being used? PLA? ABS? or?

PETG is what’s is in the printer.

I am only printing it as a “proof of concept” though.

The “real one” I am thinking of making might be a stainless body with contrasting harderend and blackend bolts.

Still kicking that around though.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I think that you only want contact on the angled surfaces, all others should be clearance.
If you keep it shorter (perhaps just one clamp bolt) you would have more travel, particularly useful when using a face plate.
Many stops have a micrometer type of adjustment, maybe you could come up with a dial on the stop bolt.
Put a large chamfer on the inside, top corner.

I had not considered the “face plate” use…..good thought.

I do like the “micrometer” thing too…...

I am kind of on the fence about that though…….I mean it would be cool, but do I really need it considering I will be using the DRO for the actual measurements???

But there would be a “cool/satisfaction" factor in making one……...

 

[ken erickson]

Fun project and cool you can "prototype" with your 3D printer!

I had the same thoughts that lynnmor has , keeping it shorter. I had a 13 x 40 gap bed lathe and at times doing faceplate work needed or wanted to get the saddle as close as possible to the headstock.

I think adding a micrometer stop is something worth considering. You never know when the electronics of your DRO might fail or it is just more convenient to dial in a extra .002 for example and have a mechanical stop.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

The “real one” I am thinking of making might be a stainless body with contrasting harderend and blackend bolts.

Be careful with blackening things. Every part you blacken in your work shop makes it darker, because no light is being reflected any more. If you blacken everything you end up in a black hole, and from what I hear from Mr. Hawking it is not a place you want to be...

Great 3D print, by the way, looks phantastic! And the accuracy is amazing! Getting tempted myself to buy a 3D printer ...

 

[lynnmor]

I do like the “micrometer” thing too…...

I am kind of on the fence about that though…….I mean it would be cool, but do I really need it considering I will be using the DRO for the actual measurements???

I have one on mine and use it often. Being able to bump up against the stop while roughing and then measure, you can simply dial in the remainder and continue. I don't like watching the DRO and would rather watch the workpiece while coming up against a hard stop.

 

[Sidekick]

Welcome to 2025. In 2026 3d metal printers should be affordable . Don't you wish we had this stuff as kids growing up?

 

[skeets]

OK I was thinking you were talking about a couple of old fords

 

[bird dogger]

Very nice! Especially for a practice prototype model.

But I'm curious as to the title of, and where you picked up your copy of a book of "thread titles"?? Along with how may chapters or categories does it cover?

Asking for a friend, of course!!

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

Well ever since I got into this whole “3D printing” thing, I have been forced to play/practice with my computer (which I have a "natural aversion” to doing)

So after trying a few of the “Major Players” in the CAD world, @Sidekick suggested that I try Alibre, well after trying it, I decided to buy their “middle of the road” license.

I would like to build/make a "carriage stop” for the lathe, so I get my “calipers and bar napkins” out, start measuring and sketch up a “half assed” version of what I want to do.

Hmmmmmm??????……..(Here is where the "Old School galaxy collides with New School galaxy)

Then it hit me…..”Hey why dont I draw this up in Alibre, and print it out” as a sort of “proof of concept” thing, instead of actually machining it out and finding out I F’d it up AFTER I have all that time and materials wasted?"

Well I know it’s not a “novel concept” for y’all in “the industry”, but for a beginner like me……it was/is.

Well I have gotten “Ok’ish” at drawing things on the computer, so it only took me a few minutes to take my measurements and draw it up.


Here is my “concept” on my machine.

View attachment 161963


View attachment 161964






Here is the “First Iteration”.


View attachment 161965

View attachment 161966

Here is the “bottom locking” part….(note that the “pivot titty” is a wee bit small so that need to be enlarged)



View attachment 161967
View attachment 161968




It took about 35 minutes to print it out, and here it is, on the machine.



View attachment 161969



I am “absolutely blown away” by the “good fitment” of it.

I had no idea that I could have/did get the measurments this close.

View attachment 161970

View attachment 161971


View attachment 161972




Does anyone "see something” that I don’t?……………... (besides the “pivot titty”….I have already addressed that in the drawings and am printing a new one out as we speak)

It’d be hard for me to judge the pivot titty without have ample time to tweak it. 2 are better than one IME.

snarky comments aside I think you are doing great with your skills / home made solutions.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Actually, with respect to the "pivot titty":

I would not make that wider. It seems it is touching the upper block on the inner edge only, so you would only reduce your clamping forces (lever ratio edge-bolt to bolt-bed). You could round it off on the top to reduce the pressure a sharp edge would have.

Or leave it off completely and save you some time. As long as the upper block is slightly thinner than the bed part it will clamp.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Actually, with respect to the "pivot titty":

I would not make that wider. It seems it is touching the upper block on the inner edge only, so you would only reduce your clamping forces (lever ratio edge-bolt to bolt-bed). You could round it off on the top to reduce the pressure a sharp edge would have.

Or leave it off completely and save you some time. As long as the upper block is slightly thinner than the bed part it will clamp.

I have considered the “force reduction”, however; I think the final product will have some sort of “compromise’.

Something like a little wider but also a little rounded on the top to give it more “grabbing power”.

I don’t want to get too “wrappped around the axle” about it either. I mean it doesnt need to be too “beefy” I guess.

It’d be hard for me to judge the pivot titty without have ample time to tweak it. 2 are better than one IME.

snarky comments aside I think you are doing great with your skills / home made solutions.

Sorry…I think “pivot titty tweaking” is against OTT policy…… (BTW try saying “pivot titty tweaking" five times fast…..it’s difficult)

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I think that you only want contact on the angled surfaces, all others should be clearance.

Interesting……

Do you mean, that the circled area should have a small gap?

(sorry for the delay, it takes me a while to do certain things on a Mac)

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Something like a little wider but also a little rounded on the top to give it more “grabbing power”.

i'd say that will be perfect.

Another idea I just had: if the part does not have to be moved too often you could machine round grooves into both parts and insert a small piece of round bar.

 

[Cape Cod]

add a 1/4-20 tapped hole to mount a dial indicator. Might need a block to contact the plunger mounted to the carriage.

Game changer

Plunger-Type Dial Indicator: 0 to 1" Measurement Range, ±0.001" Accuracy, White Face (301- 451) | CME Tools

1'' TRAVEL .001'' DIAL INDICATOR.

cme-tools.com

 

[lynnmor]

Interesting……

Do you mean, that the circled area should have a small gap?

View attachment 162036

Yes, usually the top and front surfaces aren't precision ground, using only the angled surfaces will prevent any rocking.

I see a slight mismatch where the ways meet, maybe the gap filler isn't fitted correctly or there is debris under it.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

Nice work. Very impressive.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Ok, well I forgot to “shorten” it before I hit “print”, and although I thought I gave enough room for a gap at the top, I need to “revisit” that…..For some reason it looks identical to the first one’s….

Here it is with the face plate attached. It would probably be OK, but I think shortening it a 1/2 inch or so, might be beneficial.

I did however like the”tweaks” made to the “pivot titty"