I need a little advice. I have a ZD28 with slightly less than 1000 hours. Approximately a year ago when I would try to start it would click a few times and then start. I thought it was the starter selenoid and replaced it over the winter. So far this year it was good. The other day I went to start it and all the lights worked, but it wouldn't even click. I worked on it today, cleaned out the grass and stuff underneath, thinking perhaps it was a safety switch. After cleaning, it started right up. It started 8-10 times, no issues. Put it back together and went to start and it clicked several times and then started. Question is, could it be the starter? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
ZD28
- Thread starter Debaglio
- Start date
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
The clicking is the solenoid moving the pinion into the flywheel.
Simultaneously it closes a contact for the rotor current to flow (fat cable from battery). When it is clicking and starter not moving it can be that those contacts are burnt. Alternatively the brushes for the starter rotor could be worn.
Other than that there is only the cables from the battery (also ground wire!) that you said you checked already. Or the battery itself. You may put a voltmeter from battery minus to the fat starter plus cable and check voltage while starting. A new battery can be dead too (unfortunately).
Is there any adjustment on the solenoid? In this case maybe it is not pushing the pinion far enough for the contact to close.
Simultaneously it closes a contact for the rotor current to flow (fat cable from battery). When it is clicking and starter not moving it can be that those contacts are burnt. Alternatively the brushes for the starter rotor could be worn.
Other than that there is only the cables from the battery (also ground wire!) that you said you checked already. Or the battery itself. You may put a voltmeter from battery minus to the fat starter plus cable and check voltage while starting. A new battery can be dead too (unfortunately).
Is there any adjustment on the solenoid? In this case maybe it is not pushing the pinion far enough for the contact to close.
Typically there isn't.
Check the voltage while starting, this rules out battery, cables, connections.
If voltage good I would check the high current contact. If those are in the solenoid they should be good, because you replaced that (picture of starter would help). That leaves the brushes. Or windings themselves.
Wrt the contact: it burns off when releasing the start key, the stored energy causes a spark. So the contact opening last burns off even more, the gap getting bigger. In most faulty starter cases I had it was sufficient just to turn the moving contact part by 180 degrees and cleaning the contacts a bit.
Ok, got the starter drawing:
The contact is in the solenoid, you changed that, so contact should be fine. Should, not must
Check the voltage between battery minus and the plus contact (orange arrow) when starting. If this is good check voltage between battery minus and behind contact (green arrow).
If voltage is good in both cases the brushes are behind the cover (blue arrow).
Do you have a work shop manual? This outlines detailed testing and repair procedures the starter.
The contact is in the solenoid, you changed that, so contact should be fine. Should, not must
Check the voltage between battery minus and the plus contact (orange arrow) when starting. If this is good check voltage between battery minus and behind contact (green arrow).
If voltage is good in both cases the brushes are behind the cover (blue arrow).
Do you have a work shop manual? This outlines detailed testing and repair procedures the starter.
That is the inside of the starter. In cannot see any adjustment on the solenoid. Nuts for cables tightened correctly?
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
1st besure tractor is in NEUTRAL.....nowOk, got the starter drawing:
View attachment 160510
The contact is in the solenoid, you changed that, so contact should be fine. Should, not must
Check the voltage between battery minus and the plus contact (orange arrow) when starting. If this is good check voltage between battery minus and behind contact (green arrow).
If voltage is good in both cases the brushes are behind the cover (blue arrow).
Do you have a work shop manual? This outlines detailed testing and repair procedures the starter.
if you carefully, connect a spare battery ,using jumper cables , -ve say on that lower mounting bolt, and the +ve on the orange pointed lug, when you press the jumper clamp onto the batter the starter should spin. if it does , the starter is fine....probable problem will be battery cables.
And please report back when you found the fault so that others can benefit from this thread.
Sorry for the delay in reporting back, was out of town for a bit. The saga continues. Today I was mowing, it started right up, and received a phone call and shut it off. After the call, I went to restart and the lights lit up, but nothing happened. I made sure I had all the levers in the correct position and the brake set. Tried multiple times, but nothing. I let it sit for about an hour while I did other things. Went back, lights lit up, and it clicked but did not turn over. I tried the switch several more times and it fired up. I finished mowing and parked it.
I have done all that has been suggest, and checked the battery before the first start and when it wouldn't do anything. 12.8 and 12.9 respectively. As I understand it, this is in the normal range. I am at a loss, unless it is the starter. Any other suggestions? This is becoming frustrating. Thanks in advance.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
1st WSM is at www.kubotabooks.com, look in lawn mowers section....
in section 5 of the manual, you'll find the ZD28 wiring diagram...
starter is on upper right side. has big red and small blk/wht wires on it.
with unit in neutral, jumper the b/w lug to the red, starter should spin
if it does, NOT a starter problem....
means one of the safety switches may be 'bad' or the 'computer' is 'bad'. odds are good it'll be a switch.
they're cheaply made and 'gunk' like dirt, grass, etc can get into them. Also connections can rot/corrode, mice can chew wires as well.
One SOB chewed 11 wires in my riding snowblower.......grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
in section 5 of the manual, you'll find the ZD28 wiring diagram...
starter is on upper right side. has big red and small blk/wht wires on it.
with unit in neutral, jumper the b/w lug to the red, starter should spin
if it does, NOT a starter problem....
means one of the safety switches may be 'bad' or the 'computer' is 'bad'. odds are good it'll be a switch.
they're cheaply made and 'gunk' like dirt, grass, etc can get into them. Also connections can rot/corrode, mice can chew wires as well.
One SOB chewed 11 wires in my riding snowblower.......grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
Checking the battery voltage before starting is a first step but does not give us the full picture.
Did you measure the voltages as I had suggested in post #11 while starting? If yes, what were the values?