Hello. I'm attempting to rebuild my rcr??72 rotary cutter due to the stump jumper breaking off. Part of the stump jumper is still on the shaft/ bolt. I'm having the worst time removing it. Needing to know if its screwed on or if it slides off. If it slides off I'll buy a parts puller, if it screws off I'll go buy a bigger breaker bar. Any tips would be much appreciated.
Need help removing this part from bushhog
- Thread starter tootall81
- Start date
By any chance would it be reverse thread?
Russell King
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
What do you think is left that screws off?
I just see the shaft and hub remnants in that picture. The stump jumper is usually very difficult to remove!
I just see the shaft and hub remnants in that picture. The stump jumper is usually very difficult to remove!
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Thats what it looks like to me also, (Just pulls off)
Try a pry bar on the back side.
Don
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
two identical pry bars, 180* apart. equal force. or a BIG 2 jaw puller or a slide hammer
Sure looks like it should slide off when you can convince it. An air chisel worked for me on something similar. In my case it was removing a wheel from a slightly tapered shaft. This was on a small scissors lift. The guys jacked the wheel off the floor, removed the nut & washer and commenced beating the end of the shaft (with a nut mostly back on the shaft to protect the threads). No dice. I got an air chisel with a pointed bit and hammered the snot out of it while another guy pulled on the wheel. and the wheel came off.
Even the smallest amount of in/out play in the shaft makes it possible. Pull on the part that you want to come off. If there's something that can be inserted to pry, all the better. The idea is to give the shaft a place to go when it's smacked. If the shaft can't move or if you aren't trying to keep it pulled towards you it may not work. The pointed bit in the little blind hole kept the bit in position. Because of what was around the wheel we didn't want to do much with heat. In your case it probably won't hurt to heat up that piece you're removing.
Even the smallest amount of in/out play in the shaft makes it possible. Pull on the part that you want to come off. If there's something that can be inserted to pry, all the better. The idea is to give the shaft a place to go when it's smacked. If the shaft can't move or if you aren't trying to keep it pulled towards you it may not work. The pointed bit in the little blind hole kept the bit in position. Because of what was around the wheel we didn't want to do much with heat. In your case it probably won't hurt to heat up that piece you're removing.
Its the part that my pipe wrench is on. It was connected to the stump jumper but broke.
Old Machinist
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota LX3310 cab, JD 4310, NH 575E cab backhoe, JD F725, Swisher 60", etc.
That is pretty obvious it's a splined hub on a splined shaft. It ain't gonna turn. You might be able to get a bearing puller on it. Heat it with a torch or have at it with a air chisel if a bearing puller doesn't work or split it with a cutoff disc..
Whatever you do screw the nut back on part way to protect the threads.
Whatever you do screw the nut back on part way to protect the threads.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Not knowing the exact construction of your bush hog, I think you can now remove the gear box if that is in your plan. If that is not in the plan, it might be easier to work on if it is removed from mower and on a workbench.
If it was on a workbench you could turn it vertically (upside down) and get some good penetrating oil to run down the splined shaft. I use PB Blaster but there are others (Kroil, Mouse Milk, Knock ‘er loose, Big Break….). You may have better access for a puller to be installed.
You would also have better access to cut the hub off the shaft, if it comes to that. But you might want to drain the oil out of the gear box before it drains onto the work bench.
Rusted splined shafts are often very difficult to separate if there is rust involved. One thing to remember is that you may need to get the hub moved further onto the shaft to help get it off the shaft. In other words, if the puller gets it to move a little bit, it may be a good idea to stop pulling, spray both ends of the hub/shaft area and then use a hammer to move it back that same little bit. That will get the penetrating oil to spread along the shaft and start breaking down the rust better. Just continuing in one direction can pile the rust up and jam the shaft/hub junction worse than before.
Good Luck!
If it was on a workbench you could turn it vertically (upside down) and get some good penetrating oil to run down the splined shaft. I use PB Blaster but there are others (Kroil, Mouse Milk, Knock ‘er loose, Big Break….). You may have better access for a puller to be installed.
You would also have better access to cut the hub off the shaft, if it comes to that. But you might want to drain the oil out of the gear box before it drains onto the work bench.
Rusted splined shafts are often very difficult to separate if there is rust involved. One thing to remember is that you may need to get the hub moved further onto the shaft to help get it off the shaft. In other words, if the puller gets it to move a little bit, it may be a good idea to stop pulling, spray both ends of the hub/shaft area and then use a hammer to move it back that same little bit. That will get the penetrating oil to spread along the shaft and start breaking down the rust better. Just continuing in one direction can pile the rust up and jam the shaft/hub junction worse than before.
Good Luck!
whitetiger
Moderator
Staff member
Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
The hub you are trying to remove from your rotary cutter gearbox is a tapered spline.
Removal will require a heavy-duty gear puller and probably a rosebud heating tip. The hub only needs to move and then can be removed from the shaft.
Removal will require a heavy-duty gear puller and probably a rosebud heating tip. The hub only needs to move and then can be removed from the shaft.
Yep. Gear Puller. (and maybe a little head…but BeWare: Heat can damage the lower oil-seal of the gear box.
But if you plan to replace the stump jumper…. the new one should be examined and the answer as to how it is removed will be evident.
But if you plan to replace the stump jumper…. the new one should be examined and the answer as to how it is removed will be evident.
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
It's hard to tell from the pics, but if it will fit, this type of gear puller works pretty good
but you gotta be able to get to the "back-side".
https://www.amazon.com/Bicos-12pcs-Bearing-Separator-Puller/dp/B0CMQGVS93/ref=sr_1_13_sspa?adgrpid=1331509146393009&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.8RkcmjMT2ALMuPOrS_jVAfAdvjgctp3MTQ2Ud6y6YHpcDHotnRUchvvnscdWG5IxcXuKhv3RtpZK5tA2INn9VEjUnbhMWbdSIHWwTDHKKe-AE8NZbgBYRDZXQGaQRH4gZn33zj3FpIj2ouS5sM3ZrN9_WPdCeuDeEU1DCyxv9PUxOotUXffhlxhiEnU66ULxZOhlY6lI2_GrJUboKn0CM97bMe0ttfXLtiHy4sgzY-tKUFNdjHEk92XsW5oWi1UcMwrUJeq0MNa8DN6yo7JP3uiK6O77OiblQ6BQ9K_mQF4.S_syISqKW5UIte1zjhV2559cPFdgUsbOvLEYx1yfTkY&dib_tag=se&hvadid=83219471036304&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=106362&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83219670199442:loc-190&hydadcr=24664_13493371&keywords=gear+puller&mcid=ac31765b19b83e16935a9e20a836e96f&msclkid=0c05b40d67371257bbfedc94d1162acc&qid=1754904148&sr=8-13-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1
along with a little heat.
but you gotta be able to get to the "back-side".
https://www.amazon.com/Bicos-12pcs-Bearing-Separator-Puller/dp/B0CMQGVS93/ref=sr_1_13_sspa?adgrpid=1331509146393009&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.8RkcmjMT2ALMuPOrS_jVAfAdvjgctp3MTQ2Ud6y6YHpcDHotnRUchvvnscdWG5IxcXuKhv3RtpZK5tA2INn9VEjUnbhMWbdSIHWwTDHKKe-AE8NZbgBYRDZXQGaQRH4gZn33zj3FpIj2ouS5sM3ZrN9_WPdCeuDeEU1DCyxv9PUxOotUXffhlxhiEnU66ULxZOhlY6lI2_GrJUboKn0CM97bMe0ttfXLtiHy4sgzY-tKUFNdjHEk92XsW5oWi1UcMwrUJeq0MNa8DN6yo7JP3uiK6O77OiblQ6BQ9K_mQF4.S_syISqKW5UIte1zjhV2559cPFdgUsbOvLEYx1yfTkY&dib_tag=se&hvadid=83219471036304&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=106362&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83219670199442:loc-190&hydadcr=24664_13493371&keywords=gear+puller&mcid=ac31765b19b83e16935a9e20a836e96f&msclkid=0c05b40d67371257bbfedc94d1162acc&qid=1754904148&sr=8-13-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1
along with a little heat.
Old Machinist
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota LX3310 cab, JD 4310, NH 575E cab backhoe, JD F725, Swisher 60", etc.
After reading all the other suggestions and mine I would take this approach. Don't even mess with a puller or heat if you don't have those available. Heat MAY damage the shaft and seal. Pull the gearbox to get better access. If you have a puller you could try that first. Screw the nut part way on and split what is left of the hub with a cutoff disc. Be careful not to get into the splined shaft. Once you cut a slot almost to the shaft you can probably break it open with a thick chisel. At that point it should pull off by hand.