frozen backhoe pins

[jaxs]

In case my comment "First I'll do no harm" didn't ring a bell, correct me if I'm wrong.
Is it not a given pin can only move in one direction,that being in direction which porta power is pushing in post #21?
If it were possible to remove pin without removing retainer, the retainer would serve no purpose. Point being those teeth marks from pipe wrench will not allow pin to pass through bore after pin is freed up.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

All my suggestions have been posted.

However; I will say that this post reminds me to remove my BH77 and lube everything.....Cause it has been a while since it was removed.

 

[jaxs]

As they say "a stitch in time saves nine".

 

[GreensvilleJay]

if (IF ) you do get the pins freed up using the pipe wrench rotator, you can use a file to smooth the pins and they should pop out, providing the ends haven't mushroomed from the BFH.....

sad thing is I'd rather work on 2 pins than having to clear paths to 20 windows being replaced here on friday.....

 

[Tughill Tom]

Pro tip#1 Never seize before seizing.

 

[lugbolt]

I've had this happen.

gotta remove the tires. Period. Not enough access with them still on.

then torch a hole through the center. the heat will slightly shrink the pin as it cools back to ambient temp, and they'll usually just fall out

tried everything else and couldn't get them to move, rusted, stuck, bonded to each other, whatever ya call it

coworker used to drill the end and tap it, and then had some kind of pullin tool that he used to yank them out. All thread for the puller, but the part that the nut fit against was something I haven't seen before or since. I think he said it was some kind of outboard tool used for pressing (or pulling) bearings out of a lower unit. I tried it with a piece of pipe and caved the pipe in, but in my own defense, it was just exhaust tubing so it wasn't much.

a funny story. I installed a backhoe on one of the grand L's many years ago and the buyer threw a fit because he kept getting grease on him every time he took the backhoe off. I grease those pins, every single time I put them in. You can't please anyone it seems. He wouldn't be griping because the pins were rusted into the subframe, he'd probably just lose his mind. But people don't ever realize that.

 

[BX25D Rookie]

I've been having some chronic trouble with rusty door hinge pins on a 40' hi-cube shipping container.
I have tried every commercial rust buster/penetrating oil product on the market.
Kroil, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster and several others. Also ATF, motor oil, and gear lube.

The only thing that has helped free up those rusty hinge pins is a homemade mix of Ed's Red.
Equal parts of Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid. (50%/50%)
In my case, I had Lowe's Home Improvement store Acetone, and Dexron II ATF in stock in my shop.
You can actually see the Ed's Red "wick" into the rusty hinge pivot point.

It's better, but still not what I want/need. You shouldn't need to break a sweat opening a container door.
It is on my list for things to do this year.
My plan is to drill & tap the hinges for grease fittings, and grease them at least once per year.

 

[chim]

I like the idea of slicing the pins into 3 pieces if you have access to do that. The backhoe would detach and some of the 6 pieces would fall out. The remaining pieces should be easy to drive out because there's nothing to bind them, plus there would only be one corroded interface at a time to deal with.

The portapower route would have concerned me. If you overdo it with a casting - SNAP. If you overdo it on steel, as you saw it'll bend.

 

[lugbolt]

Here's the deal with stuck pins, no matter what they are. Same for Polaris bushings and sleeves, bolt gets stuck in them and you have to cut them out.

All the penetrating oil you can buy won't penetrate enough when they get "that" stuck. The two parts are basically welded together at that point, and the rust/corrosion is what "welds" them together. They are now one part. In order for penetrating fluids to work, they have to get between the two parts, which is often impossible because the two parts are one. If it can't get in there it can't penetrate as it's supposed to.

Kind of like guys trying to clean carburetors with seafoam. If the jet(s) won't allow anything through, they won't clean out. I've learned 30 some odd years ago that if it ain't running right just take it apart and fix the clog. Now sometimes that can be "fun" depending on what you're working on--and the worst are some of the Yamaha 40 & 50hp 4 cylinder outboards. If you have done them and succeeded, pat yourself on the back because they are a pain in the backside!!!!

now I don't know about yall but if it won't move with a portapower, the two parts are basically one, so you have mimimal choices. Cut it apart (if you have room to get a blade in between the parts) or torch it out as two folks have eluded to earlier. I like to work smart and not hard, so I usually torch them out if possible. Once you get a hole cut through it, let it cool...a lot of times the heat will shrink the pin and it'll let go enough that you can just slide it out.

 

[notforhire]

No new suggestions.
Just wondering if OP has ever taken the backhoe off, or was it mounted when he bought the tractor?
I bought a brand new backhoe that had (badly) misaligned mounting brackets from the factory. Kubota replaced it.
Could it be that the pins were driven into a slightly misaligned bracket on day one???

 

[lugbolt]

No new suggestions.
Just wondering if OP has ever taken the backhoe off, or was it mounted when he bought the tractor?
I bought a brand new backhoe that had (badly) misaligned mounting brackets from the factory. Kubota replaced it.
Could it be that the pins were driven into a slightly misaligned bracket on day one???

I've had this happen and usually the assembly techs pound the pins in...the pins are swelled on the end, and it's obvious at that point what they had to do. Ticked me off because someday that backhoe had to come back off, and if I was the one who had to take it off, I'd say bad things about every single one of the 80 or 85 assembly techs that came and went since. They went through them pretty often.

worst one. They hired a guy who was supposedly experienced. Great, I won't have to do much training. Sure was experienced. Sometimes loader main frame attachment bolts went into the bellhousing and front frame. Some of the bolt holes weren't much count (rusty) so he'd just hammer them in. A few wouldn't go in tight after damaging the threads, so he just threw some super glue on the bolts and shove em in. Now I can't see everything happen (don't have time to supervise everything) but the first time I caught him, I gave him a pretty stern warning. It happened again a couple years later and I discussed it with the big boss and we had no choice but to let him go. Good guy, just the type to take a shortcut once in a while and that kind of shortcut wasn't cutting it with me.

 

[Chanceywd]

I worked with a guy like that, couldn't get a drain plug started on a piece of german made monofilament machinery. So he would hit it with a hammer while turning it with a wrench. Didn't quit till it was stuck but not tight and then refilled it with oil. I got the job when production complained of the oil leak. Had to order a metric thread chaser tap and a new plug to fix it. I was able to repair only because these plugs had a o-ring to seal
He had an 8lb sledge head on a 1 ft handle on his tool cart and I swear that was the first tool he grabbed.
Damned sledge hammer mechanics!
I was shown early in life to start things like that by turning slowly backwards until you feel the thread drop in, then start turning in. I use that method all the time on bolts, pipes etc.

Bill

 

[jaxs]

I worked with a guy like that, couldn't get a drain plug started on a piece of german made monofilament machinery. So he would hit it with a hammer while turning it with a wrench. Didn't quit till it was stuck but not tight and then refilled it with oil. I got the job when production complained of the oil leak. Had to order a metric thread chaser tap and a new plug to fix it. I was able to repair only because these plugs had a o-ring to seal
He had an 8lb sledge head on a 1 ft handle on his tool cart and I swear that was the first tool he grabbed.
Damned sledge hammer mechanics!
I was shown early in life to start things like that by turning slowly backwards until you feel the thread drop in, then start turning in. I use that method all the time on bolts, pipes etc.

Bill
[
That's how I do it and since they started randomly using metric on things that
has spared me from messing threads up from time to time.

 

[whatsupdoc]

If there is enough clearance to cut the pins with a sawsall that would help.

Before you go crazy and make the job worse call a couple of professional welders near you and find out if they can burn through the pin with a thermal lance.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

so the pins are #130 . seems they have to be installed from the inside with 'retaining pin sliding into a hole underneath. If so,I'd think they have to be pushed from outside to get them out. The worst case I can see is removing the subframe. Looks like straps #080 come of then a few more nuts and bolts, should free the tractor from backhoe. I know sounds terrible,miserable job BUT it'd get it off and give you real good access tot hose stuck pins.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

Pipe wrench was a good idea. Multiple Liquid Wrench applications over days and wouldn't budge with a sledgehammer on the wrench.

darn..... if big pipe wrench wouldn't break the pieces apart you are suffering through a case of laminating rust I have never seen before in my lifetime.

i'm at a 100% loss for any better advice.

plse let us know how it turns out in the end as something I am interested in following.

cheers and good luck

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

View attachment 152070
so the pins are #130 . seems they have to be installed from the inside with 'retaining pin sliding into a hole underneath. If so,I'd think they have to be pushed from outside to get them out. The worst case I can see is removing the subframe. Looks like straps #080 come of then a few more nuts and bolts, should free the tractor from backhoe. I know sounds terrible,miserable job BUT it'd get it off and give you real good access tot hose stuck pins.

that would be my next guess / step as well.

with frame off then option like drilling the pins out come to mind.

maybe ream the pins out, straighten flanges, and re-sleave the rusted/damaged eyes to accept new pins of whatever size to match. So much for simply getting the pins banged / twisted loose.

thats very doable but requires some equipment from the local machine shop when brackets removed I suppose.

 

[RCW]

Not helpful to the OP at all, but I've been shopping for a porta power since the other day.

I've got a couple applications I could use one for.

I certainly hope @meinnovations finds an easy solution. After looking at the responses from a couple experienced techs, looks like it's not an uncommon problem.

 

[jaxs]

Not helpful to the OP at all, but I've been shopping for a porta power since the other day.

I've got a couple applications I could use one for.

I certainly hope @meinnovations finds an easy solution. After looking at the responses from a couple experienced techs, looks like it's not an uncommon problem.

Not uncommon at all as result of riding hard and hanging up wet. Second only to "why won't my tractor start" is "how big of _______will my ______handle?

 

[RCW]

Not uncommon at all as result of riding hard and hanging up wet. Second only to "why won't my tractor start" is "how big of _______will my ______handle?

I didn’t accuse/ allege that. You did.

Don’t know the history of the tractor, backhoe nor their use. Sounds like it can happen irrespective of history.

You must know something the rest of us don’t know?!?!

If so, please share ….