BX 2200 Mower Deck Offset(?) Question

[Henro]

I put 1.25" wheel spacers on the rear of my BX2200 a couple/few years ago. The left gauge wheel arm is such that the pin (now a stove bolt) used for height adjustment changes hits the left tire when the deck is all the way up. BUT there is maybe an inch and a half clearance on the other side.

In the case of the BX I am not sure gauge wheel is the correct term, anti-scalp wheel is probably more accurate.

I plan on seeing if the blades are centered, by measuring the position of the outside spindles with respect to the edge of the floor pan. Maybe they are, maybe they are not.

My question is, is there a possible (read easy, anything is possible) way to adjust the offset of the mower deck? If there is not, then making the measurements I mentioned would serve no purpose and just be a waste of time.

I was thinking that the center spindle should be on the center-line of the frame, but I guess there is no reason why this needs to be the case.

 

[Workerbee]

Are your lift arms adjustable in width? That would be the only way I know of to center your deck.

 

[Henro]

Are your lift arms adjustable in width? That would be the only way I know of to center your deck.

l’m guessing not. Hopefully someone who knows will reply…worst case is I will take a look when the weather warms up. My gut tells me it probably is what it is.

 

[Workerbee]

Ive never been around a bx to know. But every tractor Ive ever seen has a way to constrain the lift arm movement from center. Some used turnbuckles, some used sway blocks, some have sliding bars with pins. Etc.

 

[Henro]

Sorry, I was not specific. It is a mid mounted mower...

 

[RCW]

I admit I'm not familiar with the BX2200 and its compatible mid-mount mowers.

That said, if they are similar to the mounting of my BX2360 and RCK54-23BX mower, I can't envision a way to offset the mower side-to-side.

The attachment points for deck to tractor are in a fixed lateral position. The tractor lift arms especially would be the key to the anti-scalp wheel hitting the tire. They have a fixed range of movement to my knowledge.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

No, there is no side to side adjustability, unless you have something seriously bent, then straightening it would fix the off set.

 

[chim]

Probably barking up the wrong tree. i have NO familiarity with your tractor or deck. If nothing else, maybe it will help someone think outside the box. I can't tell how the rear of the deck mounts. If your deck looks like the one below, could you put a 1/4" spacer on the left side of the two mounting brackets to even the deck?

 

[Tractor Gal]

Henro, you and I have worked on our mowers in the past! I know exactly what you are experiencing. So, I have a thought:

I wonder if tightening one side of the front link would pull it just enough to one side? (I know what I'm suggesting but don't know how to say it!) Since that front link is a metal bar, it may control the whole thing, but then again, it wouldn't take much...maybe a turn of two. Might be worth a shot.

Tractor Gal

 

[GreensvilleJay]

option #5...
Instead of moving the deck to the right, remove left gauge/scalp wheel to the left....?

 

[Henro]

Probably barking up the wrong tree. i have NO familiarity with your tractor or deck. If nothing else, maybe it will help someone think outside the box. I can't tell how the rear of the deck mounts. If your deck looks like the one below, could you put a 1/4" spacer on the left side of the two mounting brackets to even the deck?

I believe the deck pictured is exactly the same as my deck. I don't think spacers would work, due to the set up that Tractorgirl referred to, for the front of the deck. Great picture and will make my question make more sense to those reading after your post!

 

[Henro]

Henro, you and I have worked on our mowers in the past! I know exactly what you are experiencing. So, I have a thought:

I wonder if tightening one side of the front link would pull it just enough to one side? (I know what I'm suggesting but don't know how to say it!) Since that front link is a metal bar, it may control the whole thing, but then again, it wouldn't take much...maybe a turn of two. Might be worth a shot.

Tractor Gal

If I remember right, those adjustments are mainly for adjusting height of the front of the deck on their respective sides. So I would not want to change them since I used them to level my deck after about 20 years of using it as it came from the dealer, believe it or not.

The unit TG is referring to is the rectangular piece in the picture Chim posted, on top of the deck.

 

[Henro]

option #5...
Instead of moving the deck to the right, remove left gauge/scalp wheel to the left....?

The gage wheels and the shaft holding them are identical I believe, and anyway that is not the issue. The issue is that the bracket that holds the gage wheel assembly is too close to the tire...a close look at the picture Chim posted sort of shows this...

 

[Henro]

At the end of the day, I am almost certain that the Wolfmans assessment is perfectly correct...oh well...guess I will live with what I got...I will take a look after it gets warmer and report back...as long as my memory doesn't expire...what's the chances of that??? LOL

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Using picture in #8 as a ref, if you weld a 'tube' onto the existing tube, you'll move the gauge wheel about an inch or more further to the left, away from the spacered wheel.

 

[shelkol]

I cut a V out of the bracket holding the gage wheel. Bent it out and welded it back together. I drilled a new hole in the bracket so the gage wheel will be parallel again. Easier than offsetting the deck.

 

[Henro]

Using picture in #8 as a ref, if you weld a 'tube' onto the existing tube, you'll move the gauge wheel about an inch or more further to the left, away from the spacered wheel.

True, but the issue is space between the existing tube and tire is still so close that the existing tube will probably hit the tire likely hit the tire when the deck is fully raised even if the hardware related to the gage wheel is removed.

Not an issue normally when the deck is down for grass cutting. My guess is that if there is no easy solution, I will just live with it the way it is now. If the rear foam-filled tire shows signs of sidewall damage, I will have to do something I guess.

I cut a V out of the bracket holding the gage wheel. Bent it out and welded it back together. I drilled a new hole in the bracket so the gage wheel will be parallel again. Easier than offsetting the deck.

I'm having trouble visualizing this. Could you post a photo some time?

Edit: Ok, I think I see it. You cut the V out of the top horizontal surface, carefully bent the vertical piece so that the V closed, and welded it together. Then drilled a new hole that was orientated such that the wheel would track straight.

How did you ensure the bend was perpendicular to the ground surface?

Still like to see a photo...

 

[Tractor Gal]

If I remember right, those adjustments are mainly for adjusting height of the front of the deck on their respective sides. So I would not want to change them since I used them to level my deck after about 20 years of using it as it came from the dealer, believe it or not.

The unit TG is referring to is the rectangular piece in the picture Chim posted, on top of the deck.

Yes, Henro, it does affect the height of the deck but if the front edge of the deck is pulled forward a bit and lifted, the rear edge lowers. So, it could create a little more space between the rear tire and the deck.

But...I defer to your knowledge and the knowledge of others. Rube Goldberg has always been my middle name.

 

[Henro]

Rube Goldberg has always been my middle name.

And all this time I thought you middle name was either Ruby or Rubina!

 

[shelkol]

True, but the issue is space between the existing tube and tire is still so close that the existing tube will probably hit the tire likely hit the tire when the deck is fully raised even if the hardware related to the gage wheel is removed.

Not an issue normally when the deck is down for grass cutting. My guess is that if there is no easy solution, I will just live with it the way it is now. If the rear foam-filled tire shows signs of sidewall damage, I will have to do something I guess.


I'm having trouble visualizing this. Could you post a photo some time?

Edit: Ok, I think I see it. You cut the V out of the top horizontal surface, carefully bent the vertical piece so that the V closed, and welded it together. Then drilled a new hole that was orientated such that the wheel would track straight.

How did you ensure the bend was perpendicular to the ground surface?

Still like to see a photo...

Hi, to veirify it is square, I just lined it up after the bend and rebend if necessary to make it square. I'll try to get you a pic later, right now the deck is in storage