B4200D Clutch & Pressure Plate

[apn73]

Greetings All & Happy Holidays!

I'm getting ready to order a replacement clutch and pressure plate in my '89 B4200D, it's totally shot and the tractor has hard time moving, even on a perfect flat and smooth surface. While I'm in there (famous last words), is there anything else that you folks suggest should be replaced/changed out? I want to order all of the parts at one time, and also only want to split the tractor just once. On that note, any tips, tricks, hacks, pointers, or suggestions on splitting and working this deeply into a sub-compact Kubota tractor? Thank you in advance for any guidance that you can provide.

Best regards,

Adam.

 

[Russell King]

Replace the throwout bearing and the guide bushing (or bearing) at the center of the flywheel also.

If there are any seals, on the front side of the transmission, that can be changed easily then change them also.

Engine Rear main seal can be changed also if you want

Here is a link to a similar clutch replacement that has pictures of the area so you know what it looks like

Clutch replacement, was not expecting this

I have a 2007 L3400 with about 800 hours on it. I bought it used ~2 years ago and have only put about 50 hours on it during that time. This is my first tractor. Everything on it was working fine until about 6 months ago when I realized the PTO clutch would not engage. I did the adjustment...

www.orangetractortalks.com

You will need some type of alignment shaft when installing the clutch and pressure plate onto the flywheel.

Try to get a work shop manual if you don’t have one already. Kubota books dot com may have it.

 

[D2Cat]

You've been a member for 13 years with 28 post, amazing.

One thing I'd remind you to do, have wedged wood blocks on both sides of the engine between the front axle and the bottom of the engine. This keeps the engine from flopping to one side or the other when it is disconnected from the transmission.

Have the rear tires blocked so they can not roll either direction. Have a block of wood under the oil pan and use a floor jack under the wood to support the engine. Best to do all this on a solid smooth floor, or at least some sheeting. With this arrangement you can roll the engine forward when you get all the components disconnected.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Throwout bearing pressureplate, clutch disk, and pilot bearing.
There might or might not be a seal behind the pilot bushing.
In the print below they call it an oil seal, it's really a dust seal, it is not imperative you put a new on in it.

Unless there is oil in the bellhousing I would touch the engine rear main seal.
The main seal is complicated and mutiple pieces.

Check this joint for excessive wear.

 

[apn73]

Replace the throwout bearing and the guide bushing (or bearing) at the center of the flywheel also.

If there are any seals, on the front side of the transmission, that can be changed easily then change them also.

Engine Rear main seal can be changed also if you want

Here is a link to a similar clutch replacement that has pictures of the area so you know what it looks like

Clutch replacement, was not expecting this

I have a 2007 L3400 with about 800 hours on it. I bought it used ~2 years ago and have only put about 50 hours on it during that time. This is my first tractor. Everything on it was working fine until about 6 months ago when I realized the PTO clutch would not engage. I did the adjustment...

www.orangetractortalks.com

You will need some type of alignment shaft when installing the clutch and pressure plate onto the flywheel.

Try to get a work shop manual if you don’t have one already. Kubota books dot com may have it.

Thank you! That is a good amount of information, appreciate it!

 

[apn73]

You've been a member for 13 years with 28 post, amazing.

Yeah, only come in an look around when I have a problem, otherwise life is just too busy. Thank you for advice, appreciate the input.

 

[apn73]

Thank you, good stuff! The pictures drawings are enormously helpful!

 

[apn73]

Throwout bearing pressureplate, clutch disk, and pilot bearing.
There might or might not be a seal behind the pilot bushing.
In the print below they call it an oil seal, it's really a dust seal, it is not imperative you put a new on in it.
View attachment 144780

Unless there is oil in the bellhousing I would touch the engine rear main seal.
The main seal is complicated and mutiple pieces.

Check this joint for excessive wear.

View attachment 144779

Question on this, on the upper drawing, item 120, bearing dry, is this what is being referred to as the guide bushing? Also, I see item 110 is and oil seal, do I have to pull the seal to get to item 120, the dry bearing? If so, then it would seem that I change that too, no? Thank you in advance!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Question on this, on the upper drawing, item 120, bearing dry, is this what is being referred to as the guide bushing? Also, I see item 110 is and oil seal, do I have to pull the seal to get to item 120, the dry bearing? If so, then it would seem that I change that too, no? Thank you in advance!

Yes 120 is a bushing, and yes you will need to pull the 110 oil seal (which is really a dust seal).

 

[Russell King]

Yes I would recommend you replace both of those (110 and 120) parts. In reality you should try to replace all of the wearable parts that you can while the tractor is split. It will probably allow you to not split the tractor again for many years.