B7100 Hydraulic oil leaking into crankcase

[Lil Foot]

Apparently my B7100 has developed this problem and I understand there is a shaft seal on the hydraulic pump that fails, allowing hydraulic fluid to mix with engine oil.
My engine oil level keeps creeping up, and hydraulic oil is slightly down.
How big a job is this repair?
Anything to watch out for?
I would assume remove everything necessary to access the pump, remove hard lines, remove pump, (gasket?) swap seal, re- install everything?
Any insight greatly appreciated .

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You my good sir need a hydraulic pump seal.

Here is the seal you need: 31381-76190

Part Details | Coleman Equipment

 

[85Hokie]

yeah, hydraulic pump seal!

I think I have the same problem - but very very slow!

 

[Russell King]

I had the same problem on my L185 and the repair was fairly simple and straightforward.

There will be o-rings inside the pump that you might want to replace while you’re in there.
There are probably some o-rings between the pipes and the pump housing that you might also want to replace. Probably none of them really need to be replaced.

It looks like there is only one seal available so that makes it simple. On mine there were three different seals depending upon the serial number and the pump was not original so it was a guessing game but it was obvious when the correct seal was received since it fit!

Use clean disposable aluminum pans to work in and use clean rags to cover up the parts if you don’t get it back together in a reasonable amount of time (2-3 hours??). Use clean rags to keep the oil under control, it will want to get everywhere. Using di gloves will help.

Buy a quart of your hydraulic fluid to use to lubricate the pump parts as they go back together.

If possible try to get the pump lubricated by putting some fluid in the top port before installing the top pipe.

And don’t be over zealous on tightening up any of the bolts. They are all pretty small diameter and the pum case might be aluminum.

 

[Lencho]

Hi Lil Foot,
I did the same job in March 2023. Mine took the PN NIW listed. I replaced the O rings on the pipes but not in the pump. Pretty easy job and no more thinking I overfilled the engine. I wish I’d figured out the problem sooner. Here are a few picks of the job.

 

[Lil Foot]

Thanks gentlemen!

 

[Lil Foot]

All of this would be a lot easier if the FEL was removed.
This was torn down at the cabin, 150mi from my shop, so limited access to tools.
Engine oil drained, oil filter replaced.

Engine side cover & air cleaner removed.

 

[Lil Foot]

Views of the pump.

 

[Lil Foot]

Fuel filter assy swung out of the way & bracket removed.

 

[Lil Foot]

Intake manifold removed.

 

[Lil Foot]

Banjo bolts removed.

 

[Lil Foot]

Pump removed.

 

[Lil Foot]

Parts on order, still lots of cleanup & gasket removal to be done.

Lots of fun trying to find 26mm (lower banjo bolt) and a 29mm (upper banjo bolt) open end/box end wrench. (at the cabin)
Was able to break loose the bottom one with a 12" crescent and the top one with a 16" crescent, without mangling them, but I doubt I could get the bottom one (high pressure side with copper crush washers) tight enough to seal with a crescent.
Have a 26mm in the home shop, and a 29mm is on order from NAPA.
Cannot get a socket or probably even a box wrench on them.
Tight access to the intake manifold bolts and the four that hold the pump on, but otherwise pretty straight forward.
I recommend a good variety of open end/box end wrenches, 1/4" & 3/8" sockets, ratchets, extensions, u-joints, and flex drives.

When the wrench & parts come in, I will head back up and take more pics as work proceeds.

 

[Lil Foot]

I will probably replace all the o-rings and shaft seal in the pump in my shop before heading back to the high country.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I will probably replace all the o-rings and shaft seal in the pump in my shop before heading back to the high country.

What are you doing about the rusted out hydraulic tube?

Dan

 

[Russell King]

Seems like that one stud should be installed on the upper inside hole. That does not look like a spot you can even get one eyeball on!

My tractor is so much easier to get to the pump on! You have as many steps (if not more) just getting ready to pull the pump as it takes to get the pump off.

Glad it went well though!

 

[trial and error]

Parts on order, still lots of cleanup & gasket removal to be done.

Lots of fun trying to find 26mm (lower banjo bolt) and a 29mm (upper banjo bolt) open end/box end wrench. (at the cabin)
Was able to break loose the bottom one with a 12" crescent and the top one with a 16" crescent, without mangling them, but I doubt I could get the bottom one (high pressure side with copper crush washers) tight enough to seal with a crescent.
Have a 26mm in the home shop, and a 29mm is on order from NAPA.
Cannot get a socket or probably even a box wrench on them.
Tight access to the intake manifold bolts and the four that hold the pump on, but otherwise pretty straight forward.
I recommend a good variety of open end/box end wrenches, 1/4" & 3/8" sockets, ratchets, extensions, u-joints, and flex drives.

When the wrench & parts come in, I will head back up and take more pics as work proceeds.

I remember doing the clutch last year and buying a 26mm wrench and using a large adjustable wremch for the other one. That was sketchy
I think we used the adjustable to put it back together l, but I may have used a socket, I know I didn't have a 29 wrench open or box end

 

[Lil Foot]

What are you doing about the rusted out hydraulic tube?

Dan

It has 45 years of seepage, covered with some dirt/dust, then a black engine oil drip on it.
But it does look like it is rusted through.
It is as solid as the upper one under that dirt & oil.

It looks a little better in the 2nd pic in post #8 and the 2nd pic in post #9.

 

[Lil Foot]

eems like that one stud should be installed on the upper inside hole. That does not look like a spot you can even get one eyeball on!

You are absolutely correct, it would have been easier. Breaking that back one loose wasn't too bad, but unscrewing it all the way out was a PITA.

I might have been able to get that back bolt out without pulling the manifold, but it seemed easier to pull the manifold rather than fight it all day.