Recent content by GreensvilleJay

pet peeve of mine.. the electrical wiring diagram SHOULD be in EVERY owner's manual. No excuse not to. tick tock.... went to www.kubotabooks.com and there's BOT Op and WSM there for the ZD1211 !

ACE is acetone

If the hourmeter is connected to the oil pressure switch, then hours IS actual running engine hours. If it's tied to the main switch, it'd be 'key on' time , which really is idiotic to do.

Whatever you have on the shelf ! Well, use the 'chevy' stuff if you only have Fords..... Really doesn't matter. Helps to preheat the other end, to get the mix to 'wick' it's way to the heat.

so the pins are #130 . seems they have to be installed from the inside with 'retaining pin sliding into a hole underneath. If so,I'd think they have to be pushed from outside to get them out. The worst case I can see is removing the subframe. Looks like straps #080 come of then a few more nuts...

carryall and a skid with a box on it,you fill with 'ballast'. I have 2 skids, light and heavy. light for mulch/compost loads, heavy for dirt/gravel/patio stones. install carrayall then slide up light or heavy as required

if (IF ) you do get the pins freed up using the pipe wrench rotator, you can use a file to smooth the pins and they should pop out, providing the ends haven't mushroomed from the BFH..... sad thing is I'd rather work on 2 pins than having to clear paths to 20 windows being replaced here on...

yes, BIG pipewench on tight, 4' helper and see IF the pin will slightly rotate. IF it does, go other way,then keep reversing direction,getting more and more 'arc'. Keep adding more oil too(ATF or 'thin' oil ) whatever you have. You're trying to work the oil into every nook and cranny.

well it IS a Water Displacement chemical, so it'll leave the steel 'bare', and so 'attracts rust', well allows rust to form.... WD-40 is NOT a 'lubricant' or 'oil' or 'rust protector' or 'penetrating oil' or .....

sigh, this has gone from bad to worse and I feel the OP's frustration and pain. In the last pix I can see a gap in the pieces but no hint of dripping 'oil' on the orange parts. 'rust welds' are a bear to deal with ad pretty sure you'll have to rotate the pins to break the rust up The big...

yes 50/50 of ACE + ATF, best choice' decades ago guy did a good controlled study on off the shelf and homemade 'oils' and ACE+ATF was the winner in both application and cost. I usually gently heat the 'where it has to go end' to help getting the oil to migrate that way. heat end, apply oil...

glad you got it on, and NO band-aids !!!

My usual way to get a spring into the hole is to loop a stout cord through the open eye of the spring then firmly, carefully pull on both ends to get the end of the eye into the hole. Once in, pull on one end of the cord and you're done. The BIG thing is to LOOK where hands might go if the cord...

curious... is this it ? https://www.amazon.ca/Furukawa-FW-C-2F-B-Ignition-Waterproof-Connector/dp/B0D12JZXC9?th=1

wow 4 inches ,nice. Picture makes it look 'close'.thanks I've got an inch to get mine into garage,due to 7' door height,which isn't 84" high OPENING......