Functional upgrades to the M6060 including sprayer controls, LEDs, power distribution and more.

[McMXi]

I have a TeeJet sprayer control kit coming next week and have started to think about how I want to mount the control box. I can't find any information on the dimensions so called TeeJet and was told that that the box is 7"x3-1/2"x2-1/2" (WxHxD). I think the B-pillar, for want of a better description, on the right side of the cab is the way to go.

I know that I want to add an additional display at some point for mapping and/or cameras front and rear so something that is expandable is important. I saw a pillar mount on Displaybracket.com (shown below) that looks good so could make something similar that could mount to a plate that's bolted to the B-pillar.

I have a nice rivet nut kit so could drill four holes (see white dots below) and mount a plate with standoffs that I could either weld or bolt brackets to as needed for additional accessories. I'll also be adding a Painless Wiring power distribution kit behind the seat to run various accessories including LEDs.

More to come on this project as it progresses.

 

[Kennyd4110]

Great project!
Just KNOW what's in there before drilling! The JD's have a large wiring harness in that right side B-pillar, and the coolant lines in the front two A-pillars.

 

[McMXi]

Great project!
Just KNOW what's in there before drilling! The JD's have a large wiring harness in that right side B-pillar, and the coolant lines in the front two A-pillars.

The M6060 does too! I can only imagine the horror of drilling through something important such as a wiring harness. I think this is where the mag drill and sheet metal annular cutter would/could earn their keep. Much less chance of running a drill bit through a wiring harness using a mag drill. The other option is to weld some studs to the B-pillar.

It might be worth seeing if the wiring harness can be unplugged and pulled up enough so that there's no chance of it being damaged. A piece of string tied to the connectors could be used to pull it back down once the drilling or welding is complete. It would depend on the size of the connectors and the size of the hole that has the grommets (#100) in them.

I suppose it's unrealistic to expect Kubota to make it easy to add common upgrades to these tractors.

 

[bobnic]

Why risk drilling? Use magnets like these:

https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Adhesive-Anti-Scratch-Neodymium-Threaded/dp/B0F6C1LPFL?th=1

I have used them to mount cameras and displays. Then you can relocate them as needed. They are very strong so no worries about them falling off.

 

[Kennyd4110]

Click Bond has cool stuff too:

Click Bond, Inc. - Adhesive-Bonded Fasteners For Aerospace, Defense, Marine, Automotive, Rail, Energy, & Industrial Sectors

Innovative adhesive-bonded fasteners. Explore flexible fastening solutions for air, sea, land, and industrial applications to prevent corrosion and make your products lighter, stronger, faster, safer, and smarter.

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Adhesive Bonded Studs & Standoffs | Click Bond

Reliable, drill free bonded studs and standoffs; no welds, no brackets. Available in metals, composites, and thermoplastics. Offers flexible attachment options with fixtured precision for durability in any environment.

www.clickbond.com

 

[McMXi]

Why risk drilling? Use magnets like these:

https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Adhesive-Anti-Scratch-Neodymium-Threaded/dp/B0F6C1LPFL?th=1

I have used them to mount cameras and displays. Then you can relocate them as needed. They are very strong so no worries about them falling off.

Magnets are about as elegant as Mick Jagger in a dress, and my tractor isn't a refrigerator! Thanks for the suggestion but I ain't using magnets.

 

[McMXi]

Click Bond has cool stuff too:

Thanks for the suggestion Kenny but I've got a nice plan going in my head that will look factory and work like a charm to allow for adjustment and expansion.

I like elegant, factory-looking solutions whenever possible and so I'm going to add approximately 60° bends to both ends of a piece of 3/4" black pipe (1" O.D.). I'll weld each end of the pipe to rectangular plates (1/8" thick or so), and then bolt the "grab handle" to the B-pillar. Once it's painted Kubota grey few would think it wasn't factory. It'll only be about 1" or so off the B-pillar, enough to look right and function as intended. It'll be almost as long as the section of B-pillar that it mounts to.

To mount various items such as a control box or display screen I'll make brackets that bolt to a pair of my favorite tube clamps from Schosche. I can rotate the clamps and bracket relative to the "grab handle" to adjust the location of whatever is mounted to the bracket. I have an idea to allow me to rotate the device relative to the bracket too.

My thought is that I "know" where the wiring harness is where it enters and exits the B-pillar. Therefore, drilling holes as wide apart as is practical and useful and as close in elevation to the holes in the B-pillar will reduce the chance that the cable would be damaged. The dots in the bottom image indicate where I'd place nut rivets.

View attachment 173290

View attachment 173291

 

[bobnic]

Magnets are about as elegant as Mick Jagger in a dress, and my tractor isn't a refrigerator! Thanks for the suggestion but I ain't using magnets.

It's not that hard to utilize the magnets in a concealed manner that does not make your tractor look like a refrigerator (or Mick Jagger in a dress). You clearly have the time and energy to employ your rather complex plan for mounting the items which sounds very robust but appears to involve a lot of mounting hardware. Maybe the items you are mounting are much larger and heavier than I imagined. Anyway best of luck and be sure to post pics of the final install.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I have killer Riv nuts for just such adventures!

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I like the "Riv-Nut" idea as well.

That will be a very clean look when you're done.

 

[McMXi]

As Graham Greene's character said in Wind River, "this is basically solving itself".

I don't have fancy nuts like @North Idaho Wolfman but what I do have should work fine. I don't know if the point I made about using the mag drill came across, but with the annular cutter shown, which is perfectly sized for the rivet nut, there's way more control and the cutting tool isn't going to suddenly bite and punch through a bunch of stuff as standard drill bits in handheld drills tend to want to do. Even a standard drill bit in a mag drill is way more controlled.

I raided my scrap pile and found a perfect piece of 1/2" pipe that will just need a bit more of a bend added to both ends (going with 90°) and the legs cuts to the desired length to get the standoff I want. I need 18" for the vertical and the pipe shown is just about ideal. Interestingly, the door handles are the same .85" O.D. pipe and the clamping system that I use for the phone mount will work here too.

I modified the phone clamp shown below to suit my needs, but it's the same system I'll be using for this project. Projects don't always fall into place but this seems to be heading that way.

 

[McMXi]

I found something better than the Schosche clamps which are only available with a bunch of crap that I don't need or want. These clamps from VAZESWIN on Amazon are half the price and will work for my needs.

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminium-Mounting-Bracket-Motorcycle-Handlebar/dp/B0C9TML3HH/ref=ast_sto_dp_puis

View attachment 173338

 

[McMXi]

The B-pillar bracket is made and pilot holes drilled and hole locations transferred to the B-pillar. Next up is to drill four holes for the nut rivets breaking the cardinal rule of drilling and marking multiple holes at once, but that's why I'm following the "aim small, miss small principle".

So far I'm 98% pleased with how this going.

 

[McMXi]

3/8" holes drilled using the Hougen mag drill, followed by a 26/64" bit on the cordless nice and slow to get the desired hole size for the rivet nuts. Extra magnets really help to catch the chips.

 

[McMXi]

The mag drill is the way to go and @Kennyd4110 was spot on with the wiring harness comment. The harness is visible through the top left hole on the B-pillar but with the mag drill I didn't get anywhere close to it. The control of a mag drill for depth is hard to beat. With a hand drill, the flutes of a standard bit can catch a burr and suddenly the bit is buried up to the chuck.

 

[McMXi]

Next step was to get the rivet nuts inserted and tightened which was brutal with my hands still recovering from surgery but it's done and they're as tight as can be.

 

[McMXi]

Then drill out the bracket to the final size and test fit prior to painting. I might weld a small chain link or two to the bracket to secure any wiring harness rather than zip tie around the bracket itself. Also, I might do a little more shaping on the parts of the bracket that bolt to the B-pillar. All in all I'm 95% pleased with how it's turning out.

Kubota grey paint and a final fit up tomorrow and this phase will be done. I'll wait until the TeeJet sprayer control kit gets here on Tuesday before I make a bracket for it to hang off the B-pillar bracket. There's plenty of room for a number of accessories now and it's easy enough to make brackets as needed.

 

[S-G-R]

Excellent work! I'm always impressed with your fabrication projects.

 

[McMXi]

Excellent work! I'm always impressed with your fabrication projects.

Thanks! Necessity is the mother of invention.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Looking very nice sir!

I like your magnet idea for catching the chips.