Thanks to all the useful advice that I have received based on my initial post. Based on all that advice and the jobs I want a tractor for, I am preparing to order an L3302 or L3902. I have been totally convinced that the BX is too small for my needs and the L4802 frame (or bigger tractors) is too big for maintaining some of the established forest trails. Now that I am "set" on the tractor I am preparing my "must have" vs "nice to have list". I am hoping that some of the experienced members can weigh in.
Tractor - order pending L3302 or L3902 HST with FEL
R14 ballast filled tires
Implements
- Rotary cutter 72" vs 60"
- Box Blade BB12 vs BB15
- Grapple SGC06 vs SGC10
Brush Guard - Front Grill vs Front and side grills
3rd function valve - diverter vs true 3rd function
? rear hydraulic function to tilt boxblade
? Quick hitch for rear
? PTO quick link
Am I missing anything "essential"? Are there "unnecessary" things on the list?
As others have noted, R4s are more construction focused, and heavier duty. Probably doesn't matter, but if you do get a puncture in the woods you'll be thinking "wish I got the R14s". To me you get the R14s if you have a specific reason for it, the default is the R4s. You didn't have a lot of lawn type work where the R14s might be easier on the lawn. If you are, then R14s make sense, but otherwise, I'd go R4.
I'd go true 3rd function if the cost difference isn't much. They both work, the true 3rd function would be nicer. I'd guess when you're buying it there's not too much price difference, changing later is a big price difference (the diverter spend is wasted when you take it off).
I personally have no rear outlets, no quick hitch, and I don't really know what a PTO quick link is but I don't think you need one. My tractor is a bit smaller, so I can horse my implements around a bit, but I find once you get the hang of how a 3ph works you can do a lot using the machine hydraulics - once you get one side on you're pretty much off as you can push/pull with the tractor. Most of my implements sit on concrete, so I built dollies for them - I can roll them around. You may not have that luxury with a box blade and a rotary cutter - they're probably too big.
Of the three you list, quick hitch would be my first choice, it would be a big improvement on horsing implements if they're heavier and on gravel or dirt. Quick link sounds like something that would go wrong, and it's not hard to connect a PTO shaft. Doesn't sound like you'll be swapping implements every 5 minutes to get benefit from it.
Outlets are mixed. Plenty of people don't have them. Those who have them swear by them. But they would.... Neil from Messicks had a video on his tractor the other day, and he'd put a hydraulic top link on. He didn't really love it - because it had no check valve and leaked down all the time. If you're not using it all the time, I'd say you'd be better with manual adjustment. It also depends what you're doing with your box blade and how much fine adjustment you need - when I use rear implements I tend to set them and leave them, but if you're up and down all the time you may need to feather it a lot.
I have pallet forks and use them a lot. When I go to do work I typically take a bunch of tools. If it's not too many they go in the bucket. If it's lots and lots, I have a pallet that goes on the forks, and all the tools go on that. I also use it as a work platform for picking fruit, pruning trees and a bunch of other stuff. It's not the pallet forks so much, as the ability to put a platform/carry all on the front of your machine.
