Hydraulic side link for BX series tractors

[91diesel]

Anyone seen, or bought the hydraulic side link for BX series available from Messicks?
(https://www.messicks.com/parts/wrlong/ttkubx2680-sl)

Of course they want a small fortune for it ($650). I have already made a hydraulic top link for my BX23s. I put a spool valve on the ROPS to operate it. I bought a 2 stick spool valve when I did it (because it was actually cheaper than a single version. So adding a hydraulic side link is now just plug and play. I'm thinking it will make the rear blade (and box blade) much more versatile when removing snow just like the top link did.
I tried searching around for a hydraulic ram that's close to those dimensions....... but there doesn't seem to be one
(2" Cylinder 13-1/4 to 16-1/4 ), plus the BX's weird angled side link ends ...... probably explains the $650. It's only good for this!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

A couple of things to know about that unit. It is designed to be fully retracted to have the implement level, so you will get no downward tilt to the left side. Pretty hard to make a unit that short and provide an equal amount of tilt to both sides and still have some lift capability. Purchase it without the hose kit, the hoses are one foot too long and have the wrong size couplers for the factory application as it mentions.
Since you have made your own rear remote set, I would get the hoses after the side link purchase and get what you need, not what is provided.

 

[91diesel]

Thanks for the response. Yeah I was wondering about the hoses, I'd get some low temperature ones for up here anyway and they'd definitely need to be longer than a foot. I think I could work around the 'level' implement problem and being able to adjust on the fly sounds like it would make it more useful than 'guessing' each time I get off the tractor. I set my top link up with pioneer connectors and would just do the same here, a little messier but they don't 'hydro lock' near as bad as the flat face ones do. I think I may bite the bullet on this (unless shipping is another $400). I saw that Summit makes a side link that looks like it'll fit the BX. It's shortest length is 13" (1/4" shorter than the Messiks one) but only extends to 15". It would be cheaper...... but the Messiks one would be more useful for ditches I would think with it's longer extension.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

When I said a foot, those hoses are 1 foot too long for the OEM coupler location as well as being the wrong couplers for the OEM rear remotes. ( The previous info is for others) But since you do not have the OEM remotes, they may very well be exactly what you need at 36". I have no idea.
As far as the Summit side link, I think that it is made for the 1000 series JD, just guessing though and having only a 2" stroke is almost a joke, to me anyway. The top & lower clevis angles are different from the BX and the JD models as are the pin hole sizes.

Shipping should be less than $100, even to Alaska.

 

[Russell King]

Look at ordering one from https://www.fitritehydraulics.com/

@MtnViewRanch is the proprietor and may be able to make you a custom version.

 

[91diesel]

I'm pretty sure the local Kubota dealer is going to make me an offer I can't refuse. While helping a widow neighbor pick up a snowblower for her B3030 I asked them about ordering me the side link for my BX. Well the salesman had a side link from some 'top and tilt' kit (I think for a B series) and the side link was too short for that tractor. So he now had this part that isn't good for anything and it looks eerily similar to the BX sidelink (except with a 4" stroke!). Well he let me take it home to try it out, and it fits! (sorta) He made me promise no modifications until I buy it. Well it fit's on the BX and 'works', but at it's shortest setting is slightly longer than the BX side link. The angles on the clevis mounts are slightly different, but with all the slop in 3pt hitches, it still mounted and worked at all hitch heights. It looks like there's room at the top mount and bottom mount to drill another hole closer to the ram part. This will shorten the overall length to something that will just be a touch shorter than the factory side link. With a 4" stroke I'm thinking it's better than the 3" stroke Messicks has. I looked at why the long area above the mount hole in the link....... well it's obviously so there's room for the bottom link at full droop or full raise. However, I think some of the design on BX side links is just following tradition. I don't think the links and travel on the 3pt hitch on a BX is great enough to require this much clearance in the upper or lower side link mounts (operating the 3pt hitch with nothing attached seemed to confirm that there's plenty of excess clearance to drill the mount holes closer to the hydraulic ram part of the link to shorten it. If this works, I'll post pictures/part #'s.

 

[91diesel]

I wonder too about putting the adjustable side link on the left side when I add the hydraulic side link. I could then make that side longer to make up for the hydraulic side not being able to go much past 'level'.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I would take a really good look at this before you purchase it and start altering things. With the side link with a 4" stroke, I sure don't see how the 3pt is going to have much lift height. If you are only on flat ground, that is probably fine, but if you have hills-bumps or load onto a trailer, I'm pretty sure that you are going to have issues.

Good luck, please post pictures.

 

[91diesel]

Well I purchased it from them and will have it mounted soon. If I can get it slightly shorter than the non-adjustable lifting rod (Kubota's term for it), why would I have a problem with lift height? I'm pretty certain (because I mounted it and ran the hitch and side link through the full range of movement) that by simply drilling mounting holes a little closer to the hydraulic ram (and there's room for that) that the compressed length of the hydraulic side link will be about 1/2-1" shorter than the non adjustable side.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Well I purchased it from them and will have it mounted soon. If I can get it slightly shorter than the non-adjustable lifting rod (Kubota's term for it), why would I have a problem with lift height? I'm pretty certain (because I mounted it and ran the hitch and side link through the full range of movement) that by simply drilling mounting holes a little closer to the hydraulic ram (and there's room for that) that the compressed length of the hydraulic side link will be about 1/2-1" shorter than the non adjustable side.

Please post some pictures of it installed on the tractor.
Curious as to how well the different angles for a B series work out on a BX.
I know that the OEM CL pin-pin distance is 3" different . If you can get a 4" stroke unit to work for you, then that's great for you.

 

[91diesel]

It's going to be -25*f tomorrow........ so it'll be a day or two! and apparently this was part of a top and tilt kit for a LX 26 series?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

It's going to be -25*f tomorrow........ so it'll be a day or two! and apparently this was part of a top and tilt kit for a LX 26 series?

There is no 26 series, there is a 2610 model.

There are the B series and B01, then the LX 10 series (same as the B series as far as the 3pt) and the LX20 series and it definitely is not from the LX20 series.

 

[RCW]

@91diesel -

@MtnViewRanch knows A LOT about hydraulic top and tilt systems for tractors.

I think his website where he manufactures and sells them has been linked before in the thread at post #5.

I don’t know Brian and have not done business with him.

That said, over many years here on OTT I’ve seen MANY recommendations for his product and expertise.

You seem to be somewhat argumentative about his assessments/suggestions.

I only suggest you give strong consideration to his advice. Not his first rodeo.

He’s a real expert in his field and can help you if you let him…..

 

[91diesel]

Well ok, I'm just repeating what the salesman said it came from, not claiming any sort of expertise on kubota models. As far as not listening to his advice?? 'The problem' with tilt kits for a BX is them not being able to get short enough (as MtnViewRanch stated in his first response, that I thanked him for). This would cause me to have to drag a ditch on my very steep driveway uphill, so yeah I thought about it, my BX would have a little issue doing that. Right now I don't use the blade on ditches at all because of the PITA of getting a tool to adjust it back and forth.
Now, forward to the piece of kit the kubota dealer offered me. I actually mounted it to my tractor, ran the 3pt up and down and extended and compressed the hydraulic lifting rod to check for interference. In doing so I noticed that as is, this particular 4" stroke ram was a touch longer than the left side non-adjustable lift rod (so even worse than what MtnView warned about). So....... I then looked at the holes drilled in the mounts and the clearance around them at various 3pt hitch heights. I determined that I should be able to drill mounting holes closer to each other that should bring the mounted compressed length to between 1/2" and 1" shorter than the fixed lifting rod on the left side. Which from all available information is the best you can hope for on a BX setup. I took the chance and bought it at $365 with hoses and fittings attached. I'm not arguing with anybody...... I have a baby tractor (the only one I've ever owned) that I do baby stuff with and have never pretended to know anything more. I have built a few motorcycles, rebuilt several trucks, modified all kinds of vehicles. I myself was surprised to find this thing that apparently will work. If it does I will absolutely take pictures, share the model # on the ram, etc. If not, I will also share that.

MtnViewRanch:
The salesman (and we know how technically knowledgeable the average one is) stated that it was for an LX ........ 26 something, and he was seeing about fitting it on a LX 40 something. Also, something about a model of tractor that was only out for a few years or something. Here's what it is if you have can tell what it actually is supposed to fit on.

again, according to the salesman, the top link worked on whatever tractor he was putting it on, but this side link was way too small.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The top clevis angles are only 1* different, so no big deal as you have mentioned. the lower clevis angles are 3* different. If that is enough to make a difference long term, I won't say for sure.
The ideal measurement with the rod extended 2" is to have a pin-pin distance of 13 1/4". this provides an equal amount of tilt angle to both sides. Install the cylinder as you have already and fully raise and lower the rod. Make a note of what the clearance is for the pinch point between the draft arm and the clevis at both extremes. That will tell you where you can safely drill your new clevis pin hole. If you can, leave about 1/4" clearance.

so if you can end up with a pin-pin distance of 11 1/4"- 15 1/4" then it simply does not get any better than that.

If you have a shop press, before you drill the pin location, bend the clevis (straighten the angle) to the correct angle of 4 1/4*.

Good luck and please show pictures once you are done. The unit was most likely built for a Kubota LX2610.

Your dealer needs to look at the tractors before he orders this stuff. The LX20 series tractors are completely different animals.
Different top link and way way different side links, steeper angles and a ball swivel at the top.

 

[91diesel]

Thanks for the tips! will do. Fully retracted (and with my probable terrible measuring), the 'factory' mounting holes are 14" apart. So about 16" if the ram is at 2" out as you suggested. I'm thinking I won't get 13 1/4" pin to pin at 2" extension, but I'll see what I can get. Maybe 12" pin to pin retracted?
A machinist buddy of mine recommended bending the clevis as you stated as well, do I just use a metal block of the correct width to place in between the clevis legs to keep them parallel?

And I'm lucky the dealer doesn't look at what he's ordering! There isn't much farming work around here (all that is in Delta Junction or south near Anchorage), so the local dealer is ESI (Equipment Source Inc). I'm guessing they sell more telehandlers, SxS's and Skid Steers than tractors, so sometimes they are a little awkward, but that's what you get living at the end of the logistics line.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Yes, use a spacer between the clevis legs to maintain the correct spacing while bending.
The ideal length is that of the fixed link when the rod is halfway extended.
Really anything close (within 1/4") is good and then use the current manual adjustable link on the left and adjust it so that you have an equal amount of tilt with the hydraulic unit.

 

[91diesel]

I have a press for bending pipe that I built a bumper with. I wonder if I can fab something up and use it as a press to do this with? or if it would bust the welds on it.

 

[91diesel]

Ok! got it put on and operating! Here's a couple pics, because of the 3 hour days here now, I'll have to wait until tomorrow to get a good 'overall' picture of my set up. I ended up getting a friend to straighten out the angles on the clevises a bit. He got the bottom clevis almost straight with the rod, it was pretty much perfect. I then drilled new mounting holes in the top and bottom mounts using a drill press. The factory bottom mount hole was too big for a BX pin anyhow. So far I like it. I think it will help me the most when hooking up to implements that aren't on level ground (which is all of them). Secondly, I like it with the rear blade by being able to use the one edge to 'cut' a little more. Due to the lack of weight of the rear BX blade, and the BX in general, I'll say that the increase in performance using the rear blade isn't as spectacular as I thought it might be. The hydraulic top link, however, was another story. The difference in rear attachment performance (blade, box blade, even snowblower) that the hydraulic top link provides truly is a game changer. So the hydraulic side link isn't quite as 'epic' in my opinion.
With the re-drilled mounting holes, I ended up with a side link that is slightly shorter than the non-adjustable link when fully retracted (looks like it lifts the bottom arm up about 1" higher? maybe a touch more. Fully extended, it's extended significantly further. I have yet to move the adjustable link over to the left side and probably run it a touch longer than the non-adjustable link when I do.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Chocked on my coffee when I looked at that Messisk's link !
yeesh 65 us is almost $1000 Canucks. I KNOW I can get the cylinder made for a LOT less...
don't know HOW I got Italics though...