L2350 DT — strange transmission issue

[DrakeRemoray]

Ok, if you guys have been following the rebuild of the 2350DT…I am so close!!! I think…

After rebuilding the clutch and getting the tractor back together, I was able to move the tractor under its own power but the high gears would hardly even get it to move unless I was on a decline and then it would start to go. I had first gear but it was not like I remember. It would just lack power to move dirt.

I initially thought the clutch was not mating with the flywheel…but I had no smell of a burnt cluth. To add to my confusion. I can engage the PTO and it has constant and direct power. I also removed the fill cap over the transmission case and the top shaft that I can view is moving as well. It’s just I have no gears… I was able to get it to move at first…now I can’t get the tractor to move in forward or reverse under its own power.
So what inside the transmission would have failed that lets the PTO engage but won’t move the tractor?

 

[DrakeRemoray]

I’m trying to brain storm here and figure out what’s going on…..Would over temping the hydraulics have anything to do with it? I dead headed the hydraulic pump accidentally but not hooking back up the front end loader…probably ran it for 8-10 minutes. Could that have done anything?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It sounds like you have a clutch disengagement and engagement issue.
Essentially it's floating between 2 states.
Push the clutch pedal in does the PTO stop spinning?
Does putting it in gear take force or grinding to happen?
Put it in first gear, with the clutch in does the PTO quit spinning?

 

[whitetiger]

now I can’t get the tractor to move in forward or reverse under its own power.
So what inside the transmission would have failed that lets the PTO engage but won’t move the tractor?

Have you checked to see if your High-Low shifter is fully shifted one way or the other?

 

[Flintknapper]

Have you checked to see if your High-Low shifter is fully shifted one way or the other?

I was thinking the same thing. IF the PTO lever is engaged the PTO would engage and spin once the clutch pedal was released about 1/2 way (regardless the range or gear selected). So that is to be expected.

However, IF the transmission were in neutral OR the 'Range Selector' between ranges, the tractor would have no forward or rearward movement.

So as you suggested, OP should check to see that the lever is fully moved one direction or the other and that the roll pin hasn't sheared.

Range Selector L2350DT:

 

[whitetiger]

However, IF the transmission were in neutral OR the 'Range Selector' between ranges, the tractor would have no forward or rearward movement.

If the sliding gear or shift fork is worn enough, the tractor may be driven off the splines' edge. It would only move in a low gear on flat, hard ground.

 

[DrakeRemoray]

I am currently out of town and will be back on Monday and start going through the suggestions. Thanks guys for the input. By the end of this I am going to be really proficient at splitting a tractor.

 

[DrakeRemoray]

Ok, I’m back fellas. Here is what is known.

1: The flywheel and clutch pressure plate are spinning. If I press on the clutch I can engage a gear. If I don’t press on the clutch I can’t engage a gear as it’s grinding like crazy. Not gonna force it.

2: I can engage PTO and I put it at the lowest possible RPM and grabbed a hold of the PTO and there is no way I can stop it. I am getting power to PTO

3: I have checked the High and Low gear setting as advised and all seems in order there. Not an issue there.

Is it possible that it’s this as posted by Whitetiger above:
“If the sliding gear or shift fork is worn enough, the tractor may be driven off the splines' edge. It would only move in a low gear on flat, hard ground.”

This is pretty close to what is happening. I could hardly get it into the shop under its own power. I had the transmission fill port off and was watching the top shaft as I drove…that top shaft would just come to rest and I would loose all forward movement. I raised the RPM over 3k and it finally eaked its way over the concrete lip and onto the shop floor.

 

[DrakeRemoray]

Please let it be as simple as popping the top off and replacing the fork…

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

My money is on one of these bosses are striped!

 

[DrakeRemoray]

My money is on one of these bosses are striped!
View attachment 140369

I don’t want that at all Wolfman!
What do you think, open up the top and take a look at the forks and see if they are bent…if all looks good…split the tractor (again) and start breaking into the transmission?

I just keep on going back to when my dad and I were pulling the tractor in after it had been sitting for 2 years and for some reason he just slammed it in gear…all the wheels locked up on him and I whipped my head around cause I felt the backhoe jerk hard. That may have been the cause…I won’t tell him though…he will feel terrible!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes that will very well strip the bosses right out!

 

[DrakeRemoray]

Well… anyone have a good video on breaking down the transmission? I’ll be trying to do this next month.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Well… anyone have a good video on breaking down the transmission? I’ll be trying to do this next month.

I have a bunch of pictures of a L3450GST, but I don't think that will help you much.
I have found the Parts diagrams are much more useful than the WSM for parts layouts.

 

[DrakeRemoray]

I have a bunch of pictures of a L3450GST, but I don't think that will help you much.
I have found the Parts diagrams are much more useful than the WSM for parts layouts.

So we are pretty confident based on my dad slamming it into gear that the bosses are more than likely striped. Is there any procedure that would confirm this? I should check the forks on the top of the transmission….correct Wolfman?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes check the forks first, just on the off chance that it's something that simple.
When you have it open, if the bosses are stripped, you should be able to turn the gears without turning the shaft.

 

[DrakeRemoray]

Ok here is what I have done. Took the PtO and gear shift off and I am looking at the forks…. I have no idea what I am doing at this point. . Here are some pictures. Do you guys see anything out of the ordinary?

 

[DrakeRemoray]

Well, scratch all that!! Here is what I found out.

The main shaft coming from the clutch will turn as long as the a gear is not selected.

The counter shaft spins as long as a gear is not selected.

The PTO shaft spins as long as a gear is not selected.

Once a gear is selected the main shaft stops spinning along with counter and PTO.

So, that means it has to be a clutch issue with the pressure plate not applying appropriate pressure to the clutch disc.

Is there anyway to adjust the brand new pressure plate? These ones purchased were not a Kubota branded pressure plate or clutch disc. Could that be the issue?

What’s also throwing me is that I had to modify the clutch pedal in order to disengage the new clutch. I had to have more throw on the clutch pedal to get the pressure bearing to push the pressure plate teeth in enough to disengage the clutch.

 

[Workerbee]

Thats sounding like your throwout bearing fork got bent. Or your clurch linkage is way out of adjustment

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Something is wrong with the clutch pack or the install.
The fact that you had to alter anything to make the drive clutch work throws up huge red flags.

Good news, you already know how to split it.

Bad news you going to have to split it.