Kubota L2350DT clutch replacement

[DrakeRemoray]

Ok fellas, I think my dad and I are going to try and tackle this in the next month or so.

So far, I have watched all the videos on YouTube and for the most part it looks pretty straight forward. Not seeing any "gotchas". Might have to remove drive shaft if its seized, that's really the only thing I saw that might be a "gotcha". I have no issues tearing into stuff although I have never messed with a clutch at all.

When I got a ballpark quote the Kubota dealership, they said min of $3,000. He mentioned the flywheel being hard to come by and that it may need to be replaced as well...found it online for $1,200ish. I am guessing once you pull the clutch plate you should be able to tell pretty quickly if the flywheel needs to be replaced or resurfaced?? Totally in foreign territory as far as what I would be looking for. Any help would be appreciated!!

I am looking at the clutch kit already posted up by North Idaho Wolfman shown below. Is that the correct one?? CLUTCH for TRACTOR L235 L245 L275 L285 L295 L2050 L2255 L2350 L2550 L2650 | eBay

Also, might be a stupid question, what's the difference between L2350 and L2350DT?? Also, anyone have a service manual they can send my way please?? I will try an update along the way....should be a fun project for Dad and myself...we have never done mechanical stuff together...hopefully not too many wrenches will be thrown at each other

Thanks in advance!
-Stephen

 

[chim]

YouTube most likely has it pretty well covered. Split my Ford twice - first to replace clutch with an actual equipment mechanic to replace the clutch, then another time a few years later by myself (unnecessarily, but that's another story).

It was mostly a matter of removing stuff that would get in the way, then disconnecting everything that would keep the front and back from separating.

Big deal is controlling the halves so they don't flop and then controlling them as the are re-mated. In my case I had a comealong and chains to hang the front. I blocked the front axle/frame to help stabilize it because of its articulation.

Then I fashioned a prop that bolted to the trans to support the forward part of the back half. I could move the back half of the tractor like a backwards wheelbarrow on the rear tires. The prop kept it from rolling.

 

[Russell King]

See this article for information about what DT (dual traction = front wheel assist) means

OrangeTractorTalks » Kubota Model Variants Explained

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

L2350F is a 2wd
L2350DT is 4wd
and an L2350 could be either tractor.

Very very very rarely do you need to replace the flywheel.
DO NOT resurface the flywheel, doing so will change the dimensions too much and it might not work after.
As long as it doesn't have deep gouges or major damage, simply take a 80 - 100 grit sandpaper and clean up the surface, and run with it.
Do not let the flywheel, clutch disk or pressure plate get water / wet or dew cover, or any other moisture while it's open.
If you leave it open and in the weather cover it!
Seal the bellhousing when you put it back together.

You will need to drop the front drive propeller shaft when you split it.

And yes that is still the right clutch kit.

 

[D2Cat]

A couple of things to be sure to do; 1- cut wood blocks (one on each side) to place on each side of the tractor frame at the front axle. These keep the engine from flopping to one side when it is separated. 2- mark the holes on the flywheel so you can install it in the same bolted position. When you go to install the flywheel bolts screw them several turns by hand to be sure you have the flywheel clocked correctly. If the bolts don't thread easily, quit rotate the flywheel one bolt hole and try again!!!!

I'd suggest blocking the rear tires so they can't shift forward or back. Use a long handled floor jack under the engine (with a piece of wood between the jack and engine oil pan), then when the lines and bolts are removed you just roll the front forward.

Take a lot of pictures from various positions to be able to refer back to questions as you reassemble.

 

[DrakeRemoray]

Awesome guys! Thank you so much! If I do have to sand the flywheel, what should I clean it with? Good ole brake cleaner?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Awesome guys! Thank you so much! If I do have to sand the flywheel, what should I clean it with? Good ole brake cleaner?

Bingo, brake cleaner is the best.

 

[DrakeRemoray]

So we have the clutch bought and we are ready to move it into the shop….but we have the 2245 QT front loader on it. Any special way to unhook it? Looking for a manual but can’t find a free one online sadly.

 

[DrakeRemoray]

Do we even need to take off the front end loader before we split the tractor?

 

[DrakeRemoray]

Well I removed the bucket and the loader assembly. So yes it’s required. Coming along good.

 

[DrakeRemoray]

Oh I guess that’s why it was hard to shift! LOL!!!

 

[DrakeRemoray]

Well, what are my options fellas? Do I try and clean up the flywheel and have it resurfaced or by a used one on EBay? New is $1,100 !

Also, what would cause the white corrosion? Is that from possible antifreeze/water? It’s been sitting for over a year out in the elements…

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

White is aluminum oxide corrosion (just like rust)
Just clen it up.
For the flywheel:
DO NOT resurface it.
Just sand the surface with something like 40 / 60 grit sandpaper and call it good.

 

[D2Cat]

Seems to me there is a freeze plug above that bell housing. I had the same tractor with the same looking clutch and that plug gave up the ghost releasing the water to cause the trouble.

I had to remover the fuel tank to get to the damaged plug. It wasn't too much fun!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes like D2Cat said, pull the bellhousing off and check the back freeze plug.

 

[DrakeRemoray]

You guys are AWESOME! Thank you!

The new clutch is different than the old….any issues?

 

[DrakeRemoray]

Well, pulled it off and the freeze plug looks in great condition. On the pictures you will see where I circled…getting moisture in these areas?? Looks like they are coming from the bolt holes? Is that normal…I dont think so…. I cleaned the area and we will see if it’s leaking from the bolt holes.

On another note, should I see coolant come out of these bolt holes when they are removed?? See red circled bolts.

Thanks as usual guys! This has been a ton of fun and I could not have done it without you guys helping out along the way!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It's not uncommon for coolant to be behind some of the bolts, but I'm not sure yours is what i would call common.
Since you have everything still hooked up to the cooling system, I would do a pressurized coolant test.
Clean all the bolt holes with brake parts cleaner and dry them before you test.

 

[DrakeRemoray]

It's not uncommon for coolant to be behind some of the bolts, but I'm not sure yours is what i would call common.
Since you have everything still hooked up to the cooling system, I would do a pressurized coolant test.
Clean all the bolt holes with brake parts cleaner and dry them before you test.

I blew them out last night and no leaks or water shown at all. I guess possible residual?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I've had that happen to me the coolant just hangs out in the holes.
A leak test might still be good to make sure a plug or gasket is not leaking.
How does the split pin drain look?
If it's plugged it will cause condensation to not drain and that can do it too.