Lately, my L2950's temp guage has been creeping very close to the 'HOT' range and I'm not sure where to start the diagnosis. When the tractor was not under load it started to creep to 'HOT". However, when I was running at 540 RPM using a bush hog, the temperature stayed in the normal range. But now when I used it last for snow blowing at 540 RPM, the temperature started to climb again. I shut the tractor down to allow it to cool before parking it. Where should I start?
L2950DT Temperature Issue
- Thread starter HVanderlaan
- Start date
I'm quite sure it has water pump cooling. When you say clean rad, do you mean give it a rad flush or clean the outside fins, or both?
Ok yes you've got a water pump, looked at the parts diagrams. I've heard the thermosyphon tractors usually overheat due to the radiator being clogged or dirty. Something easy to check. Since you've got forced water if the rad looks clear and clean I'd change the thermostat. it's cheap and easy and they don't last forever. It's in the upper water neck coming out of the head, two bolts.
Some people think anti-freeze last forever but that is far from the truth. It will never loose it's ability to keep from freezing but it does loose it's ability to disipate heat. Your cooling system needs to be serviced just like any other fluid. 2 years is normal unless you are using extended life coolant which in most cases goes 5 years.
I agree with Stumpy, start by cleaning the outside first just because it's the easiest place to start.
I agree with Stumpy, start by cleaning the outside first just because it's the easiest place to start.
You mention brushhogging.
Bet you picked up a load of foreign material in your radiator fins.
Flush the radiator gently both directions with a water hose. Keep at it until runs clear both ways (front to back, back to front). Gently without pressure so as to not bend fins.
You might be surprised what comes out.
If even slightly oily or sticky from coolant spills use a few squirts of dishwash liquid detergent. Or foam the detergent through a garden pesticide hose-end dispenser.
After cleaning, use a cheap ($1) fiberglas home HVAC filter of the approximate right size or cut to fit in front of radiator. Later, when temps climb, just pull and shake or replace the new prefilter.
Make certain coolant level is correct using 50-50 mix quality antifreeze mix.
After all that if still trying to overheat start looking at water pump and / or thermostat.
Bet you picked up a load of foreign material in your radiator fins.
Flush the radiator gently both directions with a water hose. Keep at it until runs clear both ways (front to back, back to front). Gently without pressure so as to not bend fins.
You might be surprised what comes out.
If even slightly oily or sticky from coolant spills use a few squirts of dishwash liquid detergent. Or foam the detergent through a garden pesticide hose-end dispenser.
After cleaning, use a cheap ($1) fiberglas home HVAC filter of the approximate right size or cut to fit in front of radiator. Later, when temps climb, just pull and shake or replace the new prefilter.
Make certain coolant level is correct using 50-50 mix quality antifreeze mix.
After all that if still trying to overheat start looking at water pump and / or thermostat.
One other question regarding the coolant level - when the engine is cold, where should the coolant level be inside the radiator? To the top where you can see it? The reason why I'm asking is because the level of fluid in the overflow chamber is correct but I don't see fluid at the top of the radiator.
On any vehicles of mine with an overflow tank, the radiator should be absolutely full to the top, no air. I would definately top it off if it were mine.
So I topped up the rad with almost 2 quarts. After filling it, I ran the tractor for about 20 minutes 'hard' and the temperature gauge never went past 1/4. At one point, the gauge dropped from 1/4 to about an 1/8th and then climbed back up to 1/4. I guess that's when the thermostat opened up and the rad fluid started to flow. Is that correct?
Anyway, that's a lesson learned! Never use the overflow as an indicator of how full the rad is! Check the rad always!
Anyway, that's a lesson learned! Never use the overflow as an indicator of how full the rad is! Check the rad always!
I just read E/S's comment. I hope that's all it is! I think I'll change the cap before I do anymore work on it.
2qts it a lot for just a bad rad cap but since the reservoir tank is still full it's a pretty good bet that's your problem. Just in case check your oil level and make sure it's not overfull. Sometimes a casting plug (freeze plug) or the oring on the internal water neck can fail and coolant will leak directly into the crankcase.
Installed a new radiator cap and the problem is solved!
Now I need to address a soft, bulging, bottom radiator hose issue and a leaking 'T' valve that diverts warm rad fluid to a my cab's heater...which, by the way, has stopped working!
Now I need to address a soft, bulging, bottom radiator hose issue and a leaking 'T' valve that diverts warm rad fluid to a my cab's heater...which, by the way, has stopped working!
Cab heater failure tied to low coolant. Got an air bubble somewhere creating a fluid flow block. Keep adding coolant and run machine enough to bounce it a little. Assuming no heater control valve malfunction (cable, vacuum, pneumatic, valve internal clogged or failed closed) the heater should come back.
Is this something new, or did this happen before your temp issue?
My fan belt broke a month or so ago. It also turns the water pump. I boiled over but caught it quickly. It happens.
My fan belt broke a month or so ago. It also turns the water pump. I boiled over but caught it quickly. It happens.
The parts diagram shows a mechanical fan that doesn't appear to have a thermal clutch. That type should never stop spinning when the engine is running. My machine uses that type. Is that what you've got there or did someone fit an electric fan to it? Can you spin the fan with the engine off?