Box Blade For Lx2610.

[Foxrunfarms]

Hello,

I have a heavy duty 6ft rear blade I bought at auction this past summer and used it for dirt work and 2 times plowing snow. I'm not 100% happy with it.

I've been doing research and watching videos on box blades and I really think that's what I need to level out my atv trails, create drainage ways, and make scraps for duck hunting. I've watched videos of box blades for snow removal and I believe it'd work for my application. I like the idea of pulling the snow and then able to back up and push it with out getting off the tractor to turn the blade. I have 4 piles of snow I create so I have short 100 ft runs around my 100yd horse shoe driveway so I'm not worried about filling up the box. What used blades are going for I can sell mine and get a box scraper. The question is:
What size box scraper is appropriate for a lx2610?

I have a 6 ft blade now that when turned it covers the tractor. Would I want a 6ft box scraper or would that be too much for the tractor?

I looked in the owners manual and it said a 1266 would be a good match.

I can find 4 to 5 foot used blades for 400 to 500 but just curious if anyone used this model blade before or ran something more narrow than their tractor.

Thanks.

 

[BAP]

Remember that your 6ft blade when turned is actually covering a narrower path. So if you buy a 6ft box blade you will be pulling more material. Plus a box blade will carry more material taking more power and traction to pull. I have a 5ft box blade, the BB1260 that I use on my B2920, which has a couple more HP than your LX. When loaded with dirt it is a good load for it. Dirt here is a heavy type of soil and damp, so that adds weight fast. The 66” blade would work for you too, you just might need to take a little less of a load behind you each pass.

 

[dirtydeed]

Get a 5 footer...and also keep your rear blade. Rear blades work great for snow removal. If your plowing snow on gravel drive, using the back side of the blade (in either forward or reverse) will keep you from digging in to the stone.

The LP model you listed is a light duty version. I wouldn't go that route. Take a look at how the scarifiers mount on any model you look at. Thru-hole pin would be a better choice. Check out the Everything Attachments line.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

Get a 5 footer...and also keep your rear blade. Rear blades work great for snow removal. If your plowing snow on gravel drive, using the back side of the blade (in either forward or reverse) will keep you from digging in to the stone.

The LP model you listed is a light duty version. I wouldn't go that route. Take a look at how the scarifiers mount on any model you look at. Thru-hole pin would be a better choice. Check out the Everything Attachments line.

Thanks. I got the rear blade dialed in good for snow but thought if I had a one use tool the better. I just watched a video of I believe the 1266. No one is happy with those little clip deals

 

[dirtydeed]

I just watched a video of I believe the 1266. No one is happy with those little clip deals

Correct. I believe that the 15** series is a bit heavier duty with pinned shanks. You also want to take a look at how they connect to the 3pt arms. My opinion is that the yoke style is much stronger.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

Correct. I believe that the 15** series is a bit heavier duty with pinned shanks. You also want to take a look at how they connect to the 3pt arms. My opinion is that the yoke style is much stronger.

View attachment 118274

Thank you I just read that also. Youre pulling in the center of the pin and not the outside like the typical cat pins. My choices are getting narrowed down now lol.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

After the advice all of you given I found these 2. Both with in my budget, but an hour away.

The Titan Implement has chipping rusting paint......maybe the reason for the lowered price. This was on market place and seemed to be an Attachment Pimp/side business.

The Taylor Way is at a dealer that I know pretty well and little bit of an easier drive to get to. I texted the sales guy and he said he believes it set up for cat 2 but just change the pins......which wouldn't the Attachment frame be wider and taller? Where the pins are it looks pretty tight for a quick hitch to get in there. Maybe it's the pictures

.

 

[dirtydeed]

The Taylor way (red one) looks a bit beefier to me with the gussets. Replaceable cutting edges? Forward and reverse cutting edges (can't tell from your pic)?

Take your quick hitch along if you go to look at one.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

The Taylor way (red one) looks a bit beefier to me with the gussets. Replaceable cutting edges? Forward and reverse cutting edges (can't tell from your pic)?

Take your quick hitch along if you go to look at one.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

I'm kind of leaning towards the Taylor Way also. Country drive vs interstate, and a legit dealer I've dealt with vs some guy who has attachments in his back yard. The new pins or bushings can't be all that expensive.

From what I saw online dual blades, and can be flipped.

Not sure if is the same exact model or not but this one has a flap. The dealer only had one picture and no serial number which that is a pet peeve of mine looking online at stuff other than " call for price" I thought of bringing the hitch along lol or just get some measurements. I need to sell my other blade 1st to get some extra play money........and with no snow nothing is moving.

 

[RCW]

I agree with @dirtydeed -- Taylor Way looks a little more solid.

Don't know anything about them, but looks pretty good.

Hopefully the panels, blades and welds of the implement are stout.

Through-hole in a 4x4 tube for the scarifiers with pins. Good things.

Blades are curved, obviously replaceable, and maybe reversible (cutting edge top and bottom). More good things.

Like the yoke lower-link attachment. Another good thing.

I looked at 48" BB's years ago at well over $1,000, before COVID and the cost escalations.

I got a used lighter duty King Kutter. But for $300, love the thing for work I get out of it, but it's just a BX pulling it.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

I agree with @dirtydeed -- Taylor Way looks a little more solid.

Don't know anything about them, but looks pretty good.

Hopefully the panels, blades and welds of the implement are stout.

Through-hole in a 4x4 tube for the scarifiers with pins. Good things.

Blades are curved, obviously replaceable, and maybe reversible (cutting edge top and bottom). More good things.

Like the yoke lower-link attachment. Another good thing.

I looked at 48" BB's years ago at well over $1,000, before COVID and the cost escalations.

I got a used lighter duty King Kutter. But for $300, love the thing for work I get out of it, but it's just a BX pulling it.

For the price and everything you pointed out it looks like a nice piece. There's a used 5ft older king butter an hour away on market place. It looks a little bit more solid than newer ones. It might be good It might not be and I figured buy sonething once . The other day the manager at tsc asked if I wanted any extra income for the holidays. If you work a min of 4 hours a week you get a 15% employee discount...............any tsc shoppers remember when you use to get that for your birthday or spending x amount before it it was spend 50.00 get 10.00 off? I don't really see it being worth my time to get 15% off something I don't truly like. I should be getting some bonuses and Christmas/Birthday money in the next few weeks and hopefully sell my other blade to get this one.

 

[Trimley]

FWIW

Seven years ago I bought a LP BB1248, that has the clips behind the scarifers. I've not had an issue with them.

I would buy older attachments before new/junk. You'll get yourself better quality buying used, if you can wait for one in your vicinity.

 

[nbryan]

Hello,

I have a heavy duty 6ft rear blade I bought at auction this past summer and used it for dirt work and 2 times plowing snow. I'm not 100% happy with it.

View attachment 118244
View attachment 118245
View attachment 118246
I've been doing research and watching videos on box blades and I really think that's what I need to level out my atv trails, create drainage ways, and make scraps for duck hunting. I've watched videos of box blades for snow removal and I believe it'd work for my application. I like the idea of pulling the snow and then able to back up and push it with out getting off the tractor to turn the blade. I have 4 piles of snow I create so I have short 100 ft runs around my 100yd horse shoe driveway so I'm not worried about filling up the box. What used blades are going for I can sell mine and get a box scraper. The question is:
What size box scraper is appropriate for a lx2610?

I have a 6 ft blade now that when turned it covers the tractor. Would I want a 6ft box scraper or would that be too much for the tractor?

I looked in the owners manual and it said a 1266 would be a good match.
View attachment 118247
I can find 4 to 5 foot used blades for 400 to 500 but just curious if anyone used this model blade before or ran something more narrow than their tractor.

Thanks.

I got the BB1560 for my (equivalent tractor) B2650HSD and can say it's sized just right for it IMO.
Covers my tracks and I can load it up with gravel, soil, snow, or whatever and have enough traction and hp to handle it well. Have R4 industrial tire on my unit.
And raised up on the 3-point it's also more than sufficient ballast when I'm loading the forks to the max load the hydraulics can lift.

 

[jyoutz]

Thanks. I got the rear blade dialed in good for snow but thought if I had a one use tool the better. I just watched a video of I believe the 1266. No one is happy with those little clip deals

You will find that a good rear blade is better for snow removal than a box blade. I had both and got rid of the box blade because I didn’t use it. Box blades are great for leveling dirt or gravel, but not very useful for cutting and cleaning ditches or doing snow removal. You can’t angle them to deposit snow on the side of the road or pulling gravel from ditches back on the road. But if you’re going to buy a box blade get one that will be a few inches wider than your wheels on both sides.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

You will find that a good rear blade is better for snow removal than a box blade. I had both and got rid of the box blade because I didn’t use it. Box blades are great for leveling dirt or gravel, but not very useful for cutting and cleaning ditches or doing snow removal. You can’t angle them to deposit snow on the side of the road or pulling gravel from ditches back on the road. But if you’re going to buy a box blade get one that will be a few inches wider than your wheels on both sides.

Thanks for the advice. I was thinking about that. How it's nice to throw the snow off to the side and did worry on if I got rid of the rear blade. I did find a cheaper box scraper now I thought I could buy and try and hang onto the rear blade.

 

[NCL4701]

The hinged rear blade is a nice upgrade from a fixed rear blade. Of the two choices, the Taylor appears superior in construction. Width to cover wheel tracks is preferable. More weight is better than less.

5’ is probably appropriate. I have a 6’. Your M would be fine with a 6’ (if it has been converted to a 3 point like my H) but probably too much for your LX.

Never tried plowing snow with a boxblade. I suppose you could push it around but you can’t windrow it off to the side so if you have much road to clear, seems like it would be a tough go with a boxblade. They’re pretty sweet for trail maintenance and keeping ditches clean, particularly if you have a hydraulic top link and side link. A lot of our dirt trails will get a little traffic damage/wheel ruts and start washing but they’re hard as brick when they’re dry so even a heavy backblade on a floating 3 point won’t do much for them and grading mud is usually an exercise in futility. A boxblade will cut into them when they’re dry and if it’s bouncing without cutting, just drop the rippers. They’re very good at filling potholes and generally leveling out trails.

Backblades are far superior at moving material sideways (windrowing). I have both and wouldn’t be very happy about giving up either, but for my uses I’d definitely give up the backblade if I could only have one.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

The hinged rear blade is a nice upgrade from a fixed rear blade. Of the two choices, the Taylor appears superior in construction. Width to cover wheel tracks is preferable. More weight is better than less.

5’ is probably appropriate. I have a 6’. Your M would be fine with a 6’ (if it has been converted to a 3 point like my H) but probably too much for your LX.

Never tried plowing snow with a boxblade. I suppose you could push it around but you can’t windrow it off to the side so if you have much road to clear, seems like it would be a tough go with a boxblade. They’re pretty sweet for trail maintenance and keeping ditches clean, particularly if you have a hydraulic top link and side link. A lot of our dirt trails will get a little traffic damage/wheel ruts and start washing but they’re hard as brick when they’re dry so even a heavy backblade on a floating 3 point won’t do much for them and grading mud is usually an exercise in futility. A boxblade will cut into them when they’re dry and if it’s bouncing without cutting, just drop the rippers. They’re very good at filling potholes and generally leveling out trails.

Backblades are far superior at moving material sideways (windrowing). I have both and wouldn’t be very happy about giving up either, but for my uses I’d definitely give up the backblade if I could only have one.

Thanks. I was debating on a 3 point for the m but have the Kubota already and each tractor is good for it's own thing. I have pretty short runs so figured the box blade would work. Usually using my rear blade by the last window I need to put the bucket down to push some snow from bottoming out. Pros and cons to each blade. I have time to think about it more or can buy a cheap one and try it then can upgrade

 

[fried1765]

Get a 5 footer...and also keep your rear blade. Rear blades work great for snow removal. If your plowing snow on gravel drive, using the back side of the blade (in either forward or reverse) will keep you from digging in to the stone.

The LP model you listed is a light duty version. I wouldn't go that route. Take a look at how the scarifiers mount on any model you look at. Thru-hole pin would be a better choice. Check out the Everything Attachments line.

ALL......EXCELLENT advice!

 

[fried1765]

The hinged rear blade is a nice upgrade from a fixed rear blade. Of the two choices, the Taylor appears superior in construction. Width to cover wheel tracks is preferable. More weight is better than less.

5’ is probably appropriate. I have a 6’. Your M would be fine with a 6’ (if it has been converted to a 3 point like my H) but probably too much for your LX.

Never tried plowing snow with a boxblade. I suppose you could push it around but you can’t windrow it off to the side so if you have much road to clear, seems like it would be a tough go with a boxblade. They’re pretty sweet for trail maintenance and keeping ditches clean, particularly if you have a hydraulic top link and side link. A lot of our dirt trails will get a little traffic damage/wheel ruts and start washing but they’re hard as brick when they’re dry so even a heavy backblade on a floating 3 point won’t do much for them and grading mud is usually an exercise in futility. A boxblade will cut into them when they’re dry and if it’s bouncing without cutting, just drop the rippers. They’re very good at filling potholes and generally leveling out trails.

Backblades are far superior at moving material sideways (windrowing). I have both and wouldn’t be very happy about giving up either, but for my uses I’d definitely give up the backblade if I could only have one.

FWIW : EA makes and sells a rear blade that has removable (wing?) ends.
Thus, it can serve as both a scrape blade, and as a box blade.