Ah, yes....... a slow, choppy death.
It’s much more stable and rides better with the larger front wheels. Also, the loader capacity is more.
Personally I think you are in the right neighborhood with the models you are considering and I think any of them are better than not having one at all.
I think you put the Grand L LEs on a diet, less than 2200 lbs. I’ve the glossy here and it says 3649 and 3748 lbs. Also, none of the weights in the table include the weight of the FEL and bucket, which is around 500 to 1000 lbs, or any fluid ballast at 500 to 1000 lbs. The larger tractors being on the higher end of those ranges.
It's real to me as well, but I just drop it into 4WD if needed for traction, and move from M to L. I've encountered this with a landscape rake or land plane on our private road, dragging gravel back up hill. "Downshifting" doesn't seem like a big deal in this situation, though...
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I have found my MX is extremely nimble and maneuvers around trees and obstacles very well. I don’t think size is going to be an issue for you on 28 acres. I have 20 acres and wouldn’t go smaller. I had a small L series sized tractor for 21 years and was always a little tense and feeling tippy when using the loader, grading the road or plowing snow next to the ditch. The MX feels rock solid stable whatever I do and the pucker factor is gone.It's real to me as well, but I just drop it into 4WD if needed for traction, and move from M to L. I've encountered this with a landscape rake or land plane on our private road, dragging gravel back up hill. "Downshifting" doesn't seem like a big deal in this situation, though...
I will say to the common response of "buy as big and heavy a machine as you can afford"...at some point you're too big, and manuverability suffers, and you can't fit it in the woods, or in your shop, or on your trailer (and haul it with your half-ton pickup), etc. No one can tell you where that line is, but even though the next size up may be "just a little bit more", it may be bigger than you want/need.
Based on your situation, my vote would be for the 4802. Any of the machines will work, but I'd want the addtional weight/stability over the 3902. 4060LE would be a serious consideration if I didn't need the additional PTO HP. I'm on 28 acres with about 8 of it pasture/house/yard, and I really don't see a need for a larger machine than I have. Greater loader lift capacity would be nice (I've been moving stumps around right at or over the limit of the 4701 capacity), but I wouldn't take the trade-off of a larger form-factor.
The larger front wheels of the MX would be nice when mowing my pasture though
Not sure where he got that number but I pay $40 a month for KTAC so over 48 months its $1920. I’m guessing he financed a lot more for a longer period hence our big difference. I financed $31K for 48 months at 0%.
His number would certainly seem to be in proper perspective.
I often questioned my decision to go as big as I did, but I had some Cat II and wider Cat I implements for the old tractor and wanted a Cat I/II hitch and enough hp to spin the old implements. Last winter I was glad I had the beef (and the HST), as I was able to move (blow) snow drifts that my old JD 3020 (70-ish pto hp) would have struggled with. When I run a smaller tractor at my dad's or brother's place I envy the agility and maneuverability and there are times I would appreciate that in the trees, but, at least that once, I was glad I bought the bigger tractor (not saying my L is big, just that I was glad I didn't go even smaller).
Mine is nimble (small turn radius) as well…unbelievably so…even more so if using the brakes. That being said what causes the issue with manuverability is not the tractor or the width, is what’s hanging off the front and back…loader and cutter take up some lineal length…with time in seat you get used to it though.
If you are brush hogging up hill the brush hog uses most of the power so you don't have much left for the tractor. You end up slow up the hill. More HP would help a lot going uphill.Hello all! I am an aspiring first tractor owner and my top choices at the moment are the L3902 and the L4802, both in HST. Most of my neighbors have Kubotas, and I'm blessed with having a Kubota service expert as a neighbor. I have access to several reputable Kubota dealerships in the area. Seems like a no brainer.
My basic tractor needs are:
Mowing
We live in hilly country in Southern Appalachia with 5-10 acres of pasture land and endless forest, much of which I would never attempt to access with a tractor. Some of it I will want to access. We have some animals running on some of the pasture so I don't have to keep it finish cut mowed all the time. Twice annual rough cuttings would be sufficient.
War of the Roses
There are a few different streams that have been overgrown with invasive species, mostly multiflora rose, which I have personally waged war against, and seek to destroy
Grapple
I am likely going to want to add a grapple so that I can snatch up said rose bushes, along with logs, brush, and anything else that needs a'snatchin'.
Gravel Road Conditioning
I also have a half mile stretch of gravel road that I would like to maintain with something like a box blade and/or land plane. I'm sure I'd be helping neighbors with road conditioning from time to time as well, which I would happily oblige.
Other Notes
- At this time, the R14 tires are not offered on the L4802, but are on the L3902, which I found interesting.
- The idea of the L4802 having a wider stance than the L3902 certainly is a factor, mostly for stability and safety's sake. And the L4802 loader and 3 pt can lift much more than the L3902.
- The price of the L4802 would be pushing the budget, but the L3902 would be manageable.
Given these basic requirements, and the current price difference on comparable tractors from each class, are there any opinions?
Current price with HST, 4WD, loader, bucket, ballast box, some lights, but no other implements:
Short turning radius is nice, but length and width also matter. The last few days I've been parking the tractor under the side-shed on my workshop. It's a tight turn/fit based on the layout, and any increase in dimensions would limit my ability to get in/out.
Big pipe wrench (with cheater pipe if needed) + large hammer. Both applied judiciously with patience.
I have the same thing. My solution that I haven’t implemented yet: remove the metal back plate and install chains. They sell chain kits for cutters.
Exactly, my tractor new is now 78k, I bought used (only 170ish hours) for 57k, so that explains the KTAC difference.
As long as the blades rotate without hitting it, no worries. Otherwise a sledgehammer adjustment maybe in order. Mine has all sorts of battle scars and still does a fine job.
