Hi folks, just picked up a '77 B6000 4wd and have a few questions. Did an oil change as this tractor has been sitting - took a full day of heat cycling/breaker bar/bolt extractor to remove oil strainer bolt -what a pita! I had to redress bolt with file and square as bolt extractor completely rounded bolt - toughest bolt to remove that I have experienced in over 20 years of wrenching -I hope the hydraulic side goes easier. Tomorrow, I will drain the transmission (clean filter) and will use a Kubota UDT equivalent as I have a FEL. Trans is milky from water intrusion (yes, torn boot) Looks like drains are in the rear inboard of each wheel, yes? Completely lower FEL to expel as much fluid from hydraulic rams for max drain? I am going to back tractor into barn where floor drops about 6 inches to encourage as much drain as possible. As fluid is quite milky, should I flush first with anything (after draining) or, just add fresh fluid and then drain again in summer on a hot day? Noticed that when I measured output on new battery it read 12.47 when running - shouldn't alternator be putting out over 13 or more volts when running? Light switch is missing (anyone recommend a good source for oem style replacement and would also like to add a key switch as PO wired in a simple off/on switch (probably lost key) I know I can get rattle can orange paint from Tractor Supply but what about the gear case blue gray color for the trans/engine/front diff etc - is there a known near match out there in Rustoleum land? Best source for parts for this little beast? Thanks so much!
A Few Questions from New B6000 Owner
- Thread starter warmblood58
- Start date
Welcome!
Yep. It's not charging. Another project for ya!
If it were me, I'd replace the contaminated fluid with the cheapest compatible fluid I could find, run it through its paces (raise, lower everything a few times), then immediately drain and replace with a good fluid. I would not leave it for summer. (I might even run a couple of cycles with the cheap stuff. Sure a lot less expensive than a transmission.)
Yep. It's not charging. Another project for ya!
I think I remmber seeing Kubota gray at TSC last time I looked. Might want to check on that. I know I've seen it on the Amazon.
Welcome!
If it were me, I'd replace the contaminated fluid with the cheapest compatible fluid I could find, run it through its paces (raise, lower everything a few times), then immediately drain and replace with a good fluid. I would not leave it for summer. (I might even run a couple of cycles with the cheap stuff. Sure a lot less expensive than a transmission.)
Yep. It's not charging. Another project for ya!
I think I remmber seeing Kubota gray at TSC last time I looked. Might want to check on that. I know I've seen it on the Amazon.
Thanks so much! Good advice that I will take! Hopefully the trans screen bolt will not be as big a pain as engine oil strainer bolt. What is typical output like of alternator?
RCW
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Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
B6000 could be a USA model or a "Grey Market" tractor. Are the tags, labels, etc. in English or Japanese? Good first clue. Looks like per link below, both are pretty much the same.
www.orangetractortalks.com
I would get a Workshop/Service Manual (WSM). Looks like one here - https://kubotabooks.com/
A tractor of that vintage could be equipped with a dynamo instead of an alternator. Works differently, I think with AC output sent through a rectifier.
Could have also had the dynamo replaced with an alternator at some point.
Ultimate gray market must read
Want to have a Get Together with other orange owners... maybe have a regional wrenching weekend to assist each other with modifications, Fabrications or repairs etc... Then join a Regional Group. See http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31393 START HERE!!!! to get a...
www.orangetractortalks.com
I would get a Workshop/Service Manual (WSM). Looks like one here - https://kubotabooks.com/
A tractor of that vintage could be equipped with a dynamo instead of an alternator. Works differently, I think with AC output sent through a rectifier.
Could have also had the dynamo replaced with an alternator at some point.
Ahh, appears to be 90W or 13.5ish -makes sense - since my headlight switch is missing and wiring too no doubt and a simple on off switch in place of keyed switch, I am guessing there is some goofy wiring anomaly happening. Still possible to get an oem style light switch? Horn is non op too I noticed but might just be dirty contacts. Has anyone sourced a good shift boot replacement so I can keep the water out of my transmission?
Well . . . pulled the rear trans plugs (center bolt) under each rear wheel and the two forward under the seat, one of which is the trans screen filter and had what looks like elmers glue come out! Yep, lots of water so have decided rather than use a concoction of ATF, diesel and isopropyl alcohol, I will use the UDT equivalent hydraulic fluidI purchased and do a complete drain and refill. I will cycle and drain out a gallon and replace a gallon and proceed forward that way each time I use it until that fluid starts looking normal. Could not remove trans filter because FEL support needs to be trimmed slightly in order to do so but just a little die grinder work should take care of that (on support) so I am guessing that trans filter has never been removed ever. Fortunately, all drain plug bolts, unlike oil filter bolt, came out easy. My local dealer even had the proper shift boot cover so I can keep the rain out of the fresh trans fluid . . onward upward
Yeah, the "official" number usually quoted is 13.8v, but 13.5 will do nicely. That number is for an alternator. I have no clue about a dynamo. See RCW's comment on that.
No doubt! I'd try to find a factory manual so you can re-create the wiring. Dunno where to source OEM parts, though. eBay, maybe?
Yes, or it could even be the horn. I once had an old La Bomba car (74 Olds) that had a non-op horn. Went to a wedding and participated in chasing the bride and groom getaway car with everyone honking horns. Mine didn't work, but I 'honked' anyway. After a while, I started getting muffled squeaks, then louder, and eventually, it was working fine again. Turns out the diaphragm was just rusted in place. I kept hitting it and broke it loose, and eventually cleaned it up enough to work.
Horns are cheap, though, and easy to test. Long jumpers will do the job.
Thanks -yep, tractor came with a parts manual, service and owners manual -reprints from Ebay source -most likely (will check today closely) a dynamo, need to research how to test a dynamo if that is the case. Battery is brand new and I believe still holding around 12.47 volts with a dozen or more starts but will double check this today. Tags labels are english (yea!!)B6000 could be a USA model or a "Grey Market" tractor. Are the tags, labels, etc. in English or Japanese? Good first clue. Looks like per link below, both are pretty much the same.
Ultimate gray market must read
Want to have a Get Together with other orange owners... maybe have a regional wrenching weekend to assist each other with modifications, Fabrications or repairs etc... Then join a Regional Group. See http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31393 START HERE!!!! to get a...
I would get a Workshop/Service Manual (WSM). Looks like one here - https://kubotabooks.com/
A tractor of that vintage could be equipped with a dynamo instead of an alternator. Works differently, I think with AC output sent through a rectifier.
Could have also had the dynamo replaced with an alternator at some point.
What loader does it have? I haven't seen a 6000 that uses tractor hydraulics. The b206 had it's own pump and resivoir
It uses its own pump shared with transmission -appears to be a stock unit. Need to also have a few hoses made up - I assume that as trans is drained and FEL is lowered down it is safe to crack a few hoses? Nube here -thanks
Im
As far as your other question if the loader is down on the ground and bucket in resting position then you can crack open hoses. Basically just don't have the loader in a position where it would have pressure on anything. And if the pump is not turning then you wouldn't have any high pressure anywhere. The cylinders are double acting cylinders meaning what fluid goes in one end the other end releases the same amount of fluid on the other end. So without the tractor running their really isn't any high pressure on the hoses
I'm not following you I guess. You say it has its own pump but then say it shares it with the transmission. So is the pump for the loader mounted on the loader subframe on the side of the engine with a belt connected to the crankshaft turning it?
As far as your other question if the loader is down on the ground and bucket in resting position then you can crack open hoses. Basically just don't have the loader in a position where it would have pressure on anything. And if the pump is not turning then you wouldn't have any high pressure anywhere. The cylinders are double acting cylinders meaning what fluid goes in one end the other end releases the same amount of fluid on the other end. So without the tractor running their really isn't any high pressure on the hoses
Yep, so there is a engine fed pump and my understanding is these B6000 share their hydraulic fluid with the transmission
If there is a pump mounted on the loader subframe being driven by a belt from the crankshaft then no it does not share the hydraulic from the tranny. If you follow the lines you'll see the upright post for the loader frame is the resivoir for the loader. ( The hose on the bottom is suction and will have a screen insert that you clean when you change fluid). The tractor has a hydraulic pump mounted up against the engine with the hard lines connected to it. 2 separate systems
OK Mountainman,we are on different pages. So yes, my 3 point is shared with my transmission, but my FEl runs off a belt driven pump up front. Looks like the hydraulic tank is integrated into the upright FEL support as I can see where the low pressure hose connects at the bottom. It appears that I fill it by removing vent cover? Cannot see any other way to do so - drainage would happen by disconnecting the low pressure hose and allowing it to drain out that way? One question I have is how much fluid to add to the tank after draining - 2/3 or more up to the top of the vent? I assume the hydraulic fluid can expand a fair amount when hot, no way to really gauge level in tank - any thoughts here? Thanks
Good deal. Makes more sense now. I usually fill them to about 4 or 5 inches or so below the breather for expansion. Yes fill it thru the breather hole. And just use a rod of some sort to stick down there. Once you pull the lower hose to drain remove the larger hex, that'll be the screen and try to clean out the cavity best you can
Lil Foot
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Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
Excellent, thanks! I am going to take another look under the FEL post (aka the reservoir) to see if there is a drain plug under there and will definitely remove and clean filter - I have about 6 high pressure hoses to replace (split, webbing underneath rubber showing) and will replace low pressure hose at the same time as mine are pretty hard and aged