l2350 Hydraulics not working

[Rick Mareske]

It was really cold yesterday. I started up the tractor and it mad an unpleasant sound. After warming up it sounded ok but the hydraulics were not working. I let it warm up another 15 minutes and they worked fine. I did some work turned it off for 2 hours, turned it back on and hydraulics haven't worked since. There is an occasional leak around steering wheel for the last 2 years. Otherwise it's tight. I'm guessing the pump. I had the joy stick front loader hydraulic thingie replaced several years ago. The three pt doesn't move either. Is there a sure way to test the pump? What else could it be?

 

[Roadworthy]

I'm not familiar with your tractor but some have a screen in the hydraulic system which can become clogged. It's also possible your hydraulic filter has collapsed or clogged. Of course low fluid level could be an issue, too. The pump is probably the meshing gear type and they rarely fail.

 

[Rick Mareske]

I'm not familiar with your tractor but some have a screen in the hydraulic system which can become clogged. It's also possible your hydraulic filter has collapsed or clogged. Of course low fluid level could be an issue, too. The pump is probably the meshing gear type and they rarely fail.

That's good news. It looks like the screen is attached to one of the drain nuts. So maybe a place to start is to change the fluid. I think there is enough fluid in there but the little fluid window is discolored and very hard to read. The tractor was probably built in the early '80s. Thanks. Is there another way to check the fluid?

 

[Flintknapper]

I'm not familiar with your tractor but some have a screen in the hydraulic system which can become clogged. It's also possible your hydraulic filter has collapsed or clogged. Of course low fluid level could be an issue, too. The pump is probably the meshing gear type and they rarely fail.

Agree with filter and screen. First things to check. I always let my L2350DT warm up real well before trying to operate the hydraulics (cold weather). Damage to the pump can occur otherwise.

There is a screen in the side of the transmission housing....that if never changed/cleaned is likely clogged up. Easy to pull and clean or replace.

If the OP has a 4wd tractor 'L2350DT' the hydraulic kit on it gives priority to the power steering....so any issues there can be contributing.

 

[Flintknapper]

That's good news. It looks like the screen is attached to one of the drain nuts. So maybe a place to start is to change the fluid. I think there is enough fluid in there but the little fluid window is discolored and very hard to read. The tractor was probably built in the early '80s. Thanks. Is there another way to check the fluid?

No, the screen is in the side of the housing. Couple of bolts hold the cover on. Remove that and extract the screen. Clean it in mineral spirits or something similar or replace.

Your tractor is a circa 1990's (91-98). So newer than you thought. I have the same tractor.

Part Details | Coleman Equipment

 

[Flintknapper]

 

[TheOldHokie]

It was really cold yesterday. I started up the tractor and it mad an unpleasant sound. After warming up it sounded ok but the hydraulics were not working. I let it warm up another 15 minutes and they worked fine. I did some work turned it off for 2 hours, turned it back on and hydraulics haven't worked since. There is an occasional leak around steering wheel for the last 2 years. Otherwise it's tight. I'm guessing the pump. I had the joy stick front loader hydraulic thingie replaced several years ago. The three pt doesn't move either. Is there a sure way to test the pump? What else could it be?

FIRST thing to check is pump output. Its very eady to check at the loader valve and if you fave flow the suction side os fine.

Dan

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

FIRST thing to check is pump output. Its very eady to check at the loader valve and if you fave flow the suction side os fine.

Dan

FAT fingers, tiny phone, in the cold?
Or have we been hitting the cider a little early today?

Translation:
There is a supply hose that goes to the loader valve, that can be cracked and verify you have hydraulic flow.
Keep the stop rod pulled and crank the engine, if there is flow then you should have hydraulics.

One thing that is very common with these is that water gets in the hydraulic system and freezes and can block or damage parts.

 

[TheOldHokie]

FAT fingers, tiny phone, in the cold?
Or have we been hitting the cider a little early today?

Translation:
There is a supply hose that goes to the loader valve, that can be cracked and verify you have hydraulic flow.
Keep the stop rod pulled and crank the engine, if there is flow then you should have hydraulics.

One thing that is very common with these is that water gets in the hydraulic system and freezes and can block or damage parts.

All of the above. Ice in the system is my primary suspect.

Personally I would just put the end of the hose in a clean bucket and start the engine.

Dan

 

[Rick Mareske]

All of the above. Ice in the system is my primary suspect.

Personally I would just put the end of the hose in a clean bucket and start the engine.

Dan

OK. It's above freezing and the hydraulics are working fine. Should I then assume there is water in the line and that I should drain the hydraulics, change the filter etc. Should that fix the problem. Is there any other reason they wouldn't work under freezing conditions? Thanks so much for all your help.

 

[TheOldHokie]

All of the above. Ice in the system is my primary suspect.

Personally I'd just put the end of the hose in a bucket and start the engine

Dan

OK. It's above freezing and the hydraulics are working fine. Should I then assume there is water in the line and that I should drain the hydraulics, change the filter etc. Should that fix the problem. Is there any other reason they wouldn't work under freezing conditions? Thanks so much for all your help.

Sure sounds like an ice issue but cold oil is harder to suck out of the sump. Its possible your suction side strainer is dirty and combined with cold thick oil the pump simply cant pull it out but thats a long shot.

What hydraulic oil do you have in the tractor? SUDT2 is going to be a big plus both in terms of lower viscosity and its ability to suck up any free water so it does not freeze.

I would suggest you drain thoroughly, clean the strainer, and refill with SUDT2. If you find signs of water in the drain oil you might consider a flush with an inexpensive UTTO before the final fill.

Dan

 

[Rick Mareske]

Sure sounds like an ice issue but cold oil is harder to suck out of the sump. Its possible your suction side strainer is dirty and combined with cold thick oil the pump simply cant pull it out but thats a long shot.

What hydraulic oil do you have in the tractor? SUDT2 is going to be a big plus both in terms of lower viscosity and its ability to suck up any free water so it does not freeze.

I would suggest you drain thoroughly, clean the strainer, and refill with SUDT2. If you find signs of water in the drain oil you might consider a flush with an inexpensive UTTO before the final fill.

Dan

Excellent advice. Thanks so much. What a relief it isn't busted. It was time for a hydraulic oil change anyway.

 

[Flintknapper]

Excellent advice. Thanks so much. What a relief it isn't busted. It was time for a hydraulic oil change anyway.

Clean your strainer screen while you have the fluid drained. I can guarantee you it will have a black film all over it and some metal particles if its never been serviced.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

OK. It's above freezing and the hydraulics are working fine. Should I then assume there is water in the line and that I should drain the hydraulics, change the filter etc. Should that fix the problem. Is there any other reason they wouldn't work under freezing conditions? Thanks so much for all your help.

One issue would be wrong fluid.
Too thick of fluid, and the pump can't pick it up.
UDT or Mystik JT5 will fix that issue.
DO NOT USE generic cheap fluid.

 

[Flintknapper]

One issue would be wrong fluid.
Too thick of fluid, and the pump can't pick it up.
UDT or Mystik JT5 will fix that issue.
DO NOT USE generic cheap fluid.

I am able to run ISO 46 in my L2350DT but I am in a hot climate. Did flow fine after warming up recently in 10 degree weather however.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I am able to run ISO 46 in my L2350DT but I am in a hot climate. Did flow fine after warming up recently in 10 degree weather however.

ISO 46 usually indicates a plain hydrauluc oil which is not suitsble for use in a common sump tractor.

Dan

 

[Flintknapper]

ISO 46 usually indicates a plain hydrauluc oil which is not suitsble for use in a common sump tractor.

Dan

Traveler Premium.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-premium-tractor-hydraulic-fluid-5-gal-t806391

Can only say it runs fine in mine and is supposedly good to -44 °F (depending on application).

• Formulated from select base stocks and an advanced additive system
• Engineered for use on a variety of farm equipment, off-highway machinery, industrial tractors, final drives, power take-off units, wet brakes, power steering units, and hydraulic systems
• Provides superior protection and performance for modern farm equipment
• Employs a common sump to lubricate hydrostatic transmissions, differentials, wet brakes, hydraulics, and final drive gears
• Helps to maintain optimum equipment performance and component durability
• Features a temperature rating of -44F to 439F
• Comes in a 5 gallon container

No doubt a lower viscosity and full synthetic would be better for the OP.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Traveler Premium.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-premium-tractor-hydraulic-fluid-5-gal-t806391

Can only say it runs fine in mine and is supposedly good to -44 °F (depending on application).

No doubt a lower viscosity and full synthetic would be better for the OP.

Traveller Premium is a UTTO specifically formulated for common sump tractors and has a viscosity profile very similar to standard UDT. Its usually described as a SAE 10W30 grade oil rather than an ISO oil which is what prompted my comment.

Actual viscosity data for Traveller Premium UTTO
Source - Lubrizol Corporation​

KV40 = 59 cSt
KV100 = 9.5 cSt
VI = 143
Pour Point = -39C

That KV40 puts it just over the high limit for ISO 46 (50.6). But still welL short of ISO 68.
Label/marketing hype not with standing at -44F (-42C) its an unpumpable solid but with pour point of -39C still well within acceptable range.

I use it in my B7200DT and at 0F it can be slow to start pumping.

Dan

 

[Flintknapper]

Traveller Premium is a UTTO specifically formulated for common sump tractors and has a viscosity profile very similar to standard UDT. Its usually described as a SAE 10W30 grade oil rather than an ISO oil which is what prompted my comment.

Actual viscosity data for Traveller Premium UTTO
Source - Lubrizol Corporation​

KV40 = 59 cSt
KV100 = 9.5 cSt
VI = 143
Pour Point = -39C

That KV40 puts it just over the high limit for ISO 46 (50.6). But still welL short of ISO 68.
Label/marketing hype not with standing at -44F (-42C) its an unpumpable solid but still well within acceptable range

I use it in my B7200DT and at 0F it can be slow to start pumping.

Dan

Thanks for the additional info. Learned something.

Agree with the marketing 'hype' comment and I can tell you for certain, even if true....Old Flint isn't going to be out there in any weather that is below 0°F . So viscosity at that juncture is a moot point to me.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks for the additional info. Learned something.

Agree with the marketing 'hype' comment and I can tell you for certain, even if true....Old Flint isn't going to be out there in any weather that is below 0°F . So viscosity at that juncture is a moot point to me.

I just had to deal with single digit temps for three consecutive days which is extremely rare here. None of my machines were even started. The fireplace, TV, Internet and coffee maker were my most used creature comforts.

If I think I am going to need a tractor when its that cold I keep it inside where temps dont go below freezing. If I screw up and get caught with them outside I "preheat" with a big ole forced air torpedo heater. ....

Dan