Box blade advice

[Ridelght]

Guys,
I need advice on redoing my gravel driveway the right way with my box blade. 1st time I tried to grade remove grass it looked terrible and more ruts and piles of gravel at the ends of each pull. I am doing something wrong. Watched videos but they just fly through and brag about grass gone and how nice it looks.
thanks for any advice and help.

 

[mikester]

Practice. Gauge wheels and a hydraulic top link on a blade will give you fine grade control.

 

[johnjk]

I almost dread hooking up my box blade. Lots of stuff to remember. If you have a flat surface to start on that helps. Lower links. They make the box level. I start my initial blading with it level side to side. Top link is tilt or bite of the box. Standing by the rear tire, if the inner edge of the box is tilted up, that cutting edge on the rear will want to bite in and scoop more material. If the inner range is level or tilted down, it will not be as aggressive and tend to lift a hit and allow material to flow under the back. If you have rippers and they are down, they will pull the box down as well. Now for the dance. I do probably 8-12 passes with the rippers down and focus on my holes to break them up. Not looking to move material, just break that surface and a few inches below those holes up. After this I raise the rippers up and start to pull material. Front edge raised and not too aggressive. The box will fill but should empty too. If it digs in and bogs you down, stop and adjust. Probably another 6-8 passes to redistribute material. For the last few passes, I’ll tilt one side of the box up with the lower links and attempt to put a crown on the drive.
My big issue is I had mixers on my drive right after it was installed and they pushed a ton of big rocks up to the surface. I need to get a few loads of smaller rock and top dress the entire drive after I rip and grade it. I am also thinking about renting a small ride on roller to compact all the stone once I get the holes out. Hope this helps

 

[OntheRidge]

This was a great help to me when I first got my BB.

 

[Trustable]

Im new to anything tractor related compared to most on here (3 Weeks) but the first thing I did when I recieved the tractor was scrape and scar my driveway to bring up old gravel. It took a while to get the hang of it, but the first thing I did was put it in float with the scarifies up and go over the driveway probably 10 times. Initially this filled up the box very fast, but was distributing it as well, the more I went over it, it slowed the fill time. If i noticed it not dumping I would feather the blade between float and the 1st height setting, this let just enough out to not create a mound, but still empty the box. Next, I lowered the scarifiers to the lowest positition and went over the driveway another 10 times. This brought what gravel I had to the surface. After that, I put scarifiers up, adjusted the angle with the top link and side link (I dont think thats the correct name), and went over the sides of the driveway to put a crown on it. After I was happy with the angle of the sides, I leveled the box blade and went over the center. Once that was done, I used the bucket to back drag the driveway. This helped to fill in any small dips and compact it a little. I tried to drive over it with the tractor to compact it, but with AG tires there was only the small sections making contact. I ended up driving my truck over it probably 30 times back and forth to comapct it. It really did not look great until it all settled and a day of rain, as I don't have any roller or something heavy enough to really compact it. But now, its more than usable compared to what it used to be. It just took a lot of experimentation, especially since I had no experience with operating a machine. Ideally, I need to have probably quite a bit of gravel delivered, but I really do not want to spend the money. Assuming you dont have brand new gravel, I would just experiment with it, you most likely wont be hurting anything. The biggest thing that helped me was feathering the elevation of the box blade. Hope this helps!

 

[Ridelght]

I almost dread hooking up my box blade. Lots of stuff to remember. If you have a flat surface to start on that helps. Lower links. They make the box level. I start my initial blading with it level side to side. Top link is tilt or bite of the box. Standing by the rear tire, if the inner edge of the box is tilted up, that cutting edge on the rear will want to bite in and scoop more material. If the inner range is level or tilted down, it will not be as aggressive and tend to lift a hit and allow material to flow under the back. If you have rippers and they are down, they will pull the box down as well. Now for the dance. I do probably 8-12 passes with the rippers down and focus on my holes to break them up. Not looking to move material, just break that surface and a few inches below those holes up. After this I raise the rippers up and start to pull material. Front edge raised and not too aggressive. The box will fill but should empty too. If it digs in and bogs you down, stop and adjust. Probably another 6-8 passes to redistribute material. For the last few passes, I’ll tilt one side of the box up with the lower links and attempt to put a crown on the drive.
My big issue is I had mixers on my drive right after it was installed and they pushed a ton of big rocks up to the surface. I need to get a few loads of smaller rock and top dress the entire drive after I rip and grade it. I am also thinking about renting a small ride on roller to compact all the stone once I get the holes out. Hope this helps

Thanks

 

[ctfjr]

I've used my box blade to regrade the driveway a few times. This spring I wanted to regrade the lower section that looked like this to start:

First I ripped it with the box blade using the top n tilt to angle the dig slightly and pull the box forward so the scarifers really dug in.

The top link was then extended all the way so when it was lowered and dragged the blade on the back smoothed out the spoils. I also used my back blade in the end to make sure I had a pitch to the side.

You really need some process material (I use 3/4") on top to finish everything. I still need to bring in a triaxle to trim the whole driveway with. It packs down well just driving over it if its damp.


It isn't so hard, after all I can do it. Just takes some practice - you won't break anything!

 

[Ridelght]

I've used my box blade to regrade the driveway a few times. This spring I wanted to regrade the lower section that looked like this to start:
View attachment 84003

First I ripped it with the box blade using the top n tilt to angle the dig slightly and pull the box forward so the scarifers really dug in.
View attachment 84004

The top link was then extended all the way so when it was lowered and dragged the blade on the back smoothed out the spoils. I also used my back blade in the end to make sure I had a pitch to the side.
View attachment 84005

You really need some process material (I use 3/4") on top to finish everything. I still need to bring in a triaxle to trim the whole driveway with. It packs down well just driving over it if its damp.


It isn't so hard, after all I can do it. Just takes some practice - you won't break anything!

Thanks...Yeah I guess you cant break gravel. I have plenty of gravel but get grass and weeds along with ruts. Wife told me to call someone, 1500.00 and said would use a Kubota and 4 foot box blade. I need to figure this out myself, I have a much bigger tractor and 72" blade. Need concrete but like your driveway, way way too long for that. Easier to move..lol
Thanks again

 

[Evad]

I bought my first tractor last year for the primary purpose of grading gravel roads that we live on. The one thing I learned is the importance of ripping. I tried just grading to smooth things out, but in the end I just rip the heck out of the road first, then grade it with the box blade like ctfir did such a great job of showing you. I have also learned how to tip the box to one side to help crown the roads. It just takes practice, but the good news is that if you don't like it you can rip and start over. I don't even buy gravel to fill potholes anymore. I rip a section of road 20' before and after the pothole, regrade, and its gone. After doing this for 9 months I am finding the road needs less and less maintenance so I must be grading it correctly. Have fun with it, I find it very therapeutic for some reason

 

[MOOTS]

Box blade can do the job, but a land plane IS the tool for the job.

Box blade just takes some finesse and readjusting.

 

[Ridelght]

I bought my first tractor last year for the primary purpose of grading gravel roads that we live on. The one thing I learned is the importance of ripping. I tried just grading to smooth things out, but in the end I just rip the heck out of the road first, then grade it with the box blade like ctfir did such a great job of showing you. I have also learned how to tip the box to one side to help crown the roads. It just takes practice, but the good news is that if you don't like it you can rip and start over. I don't even buy gravel to fill potholes anymore. I rip a section of road 20' before and after the pothole, regrade, and its gone. After doing this for 9 months I am finding the road needs less and less maintenance so I must be grading it correctly. Have fun with it, I find it very therapeutic for some reason

I worked it some today. I have a lot of weeds growing on surface as well. I did not use rippers yet. Played with using front blade to dig and the accumulation going out the back some. Biggest problem so far is my drive of 500 feet, has no level areas. Its up hill downhill, curves etc. So if do long passes, wind up with a pile of gravel to scoop.and grade back out. Hard to find right lowering for each area.
I bought my tactor for multitude of chores bit this was definitely 1 of them. Local place will do drive for 1200.00 bucks but id rather figure out how to do it on mu own with advice from you guy's
Appreciate all the insight guys. Thanks for the help.

 

[Evad]

I worked it some today. I have a lot of weeds growing on surface as well. I did not use rippers yet. Played with using front blade to dig and the accumulation going out the back some. Biggest problem so far is my drive of 500 feet, has no level areas. Its up hill downhill, curves etc. So if do long passes, wind up with a pile of gravel to scoop.and grade back out. Hard to find right lowering for each area.
I bought my tactor for multitude of chores bit this was definitely 1 of them. Local place will do drive for 1200.00 bucks but id rather figure out how to do it on mu own with advice from you guy's
Appreciate all the insight guys. Thanks for the help.

I hear you. My driveway is 300+ feet long and 13% grade. Then my "street" to the main paved road is another 1,100 feet with curves. For the street I ended up just doing sections at a time that were fairly straight/level. I eventually worked all the sections together. Its a continuous work in progress....

 

[trueg50]

Best piece of advice my first time on a tractor: Your first time you WILL screw it up, it WILL be ugly, BUT you have in your hands all the tools you need to fix it and make it right! Take your time, you won't fix the road in 2 passes it takes time and a number of passes/work.

Just as the others said, break up the potholes and pull up the gravel first. After that you can either work with what you have or bring in/move material if needed. Only thing I can add is think about how your water will drain off the road. You might want to remove material from the shoulder first and then re-grade and crown.

 

[Ridelght]

I hear you. My driveway is 300+ feet long and 13% grade. Then my "street" to the main paved road is another 1,100 feet with curves. For the street I ended up just doing sections at a time that were fairly straight/level. I eventually worked all the sections together. Its a continuous work in progress....

Wow....thats a long lot. Even at 500 feet plus the pad by garage i figured out i will move before pay the ungodly cost of concrete. Youd need a local township levy to do yours. quote i had 2 years ago was over 70 grand. Concrete cost i used calculator and was 13000.00 was told do in 3 days. 57000.00 for 24 hours labor is outrageous. Said my base was fine.

 

[fried1765]

Wow....thats a long lot. Even at 500 feet plus the pad by garage i figured out i will move before pay the ungodly cost of concrete. Youd need a local township levy to do yours. quote i had 2 years ago was over 70 grand. Concrete cost i used calculator and was 13000.00 was told do in 3 days. 57000.00 for 24 hours labor is outrageous. Said my base was fine.

If you live in a cold climate, concrete is a bad idea, unless you have a very well drained base.
Base should be at least 12" thick, but 18" would be better.
No trucks allowed when frost is coming out of ground (usually early March to early May).

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Every gravel driveway and parking lot NEEDS to be regularly 'maintained'. I think people get into trouble by leaving them for 'later' , and 'later' becomes, well, um, ah, 5-10 years LATER !
Late farmer across the street used to drag a beam and chains up and down his very long driveway every Sunday, after church, before brunch. It was a driveway to be proud. Clean,flat, level.....
Now the guy who bought the property did NOTHING for ,yup, +-5-7 years ,and it showed. Ruts, wavy, yuck.
I used to drag a mini bar and chain, behind a garden tractor to 'tidy up' the parking lot, about 1/4ac. about once a month. That made a HUGE difference.

 

[Ridelght]

If you live in a cold climate, concrete is a bad idea, unless you have a very well drained base.
Base should be at least 12" thick, but 18" would be better.
No trucks allowed when frost is coming out of ground (usually early March to early May).

Thanks, yeah Ohio gets cold in winter. Id guess this base is deep. I lived here 10 years, put gravel in 3 times myself. House built in 1961 so i assume a lit of base. Septic dudes have no issue. Gravel is fine except weeds. I hate spraying weed killers.
Question , do drag Harrows work for dressing away weeds ? I dont really have ruts or pot holes. Think because i use a blade on my Polaris to push snow. I dont want to make a mess going to deep with scarficers and if i do id think the drag would help it look nice after leveling. Bit im niew to this stuff.

 

[Ridelght]

Best piece of advice my first time on a tractor: Your first time you WILL screw it up, it WILL be ugly, BUT you have in your hands all the tools you need to fix it and make it right! Take your time, you won't fix the road in 2 passes it takes time and a number of passes/work.

Just as the others said, break up the potholes and pull up the gravel first. After that you can either work with what you have or bring in/move material if needed. Only thing I can add is think about how your water will drain off the road. You might want to remove material from the shoulder first and then re-grade and crown.

Thanks, the road water no issue. My property is at the crest of a hill. Water runs down the hill for the road. Down the drive it drains to one side and over another slope.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

Back in the 70's and 80's I did a bunch of commercial light grading work for new homes. Back then we did something we called "spinning" to level out the front and back yards of these homes. You set the box blade with the rear blade about an inch lower than the front blade. Then, you put in in high range, going forward, 3 point on float, and go like hell. Going in circles heading for the high spots. Round and round and round.
Worked awesome. 10 minutes and you're done and go to the next yard.

My point is, it takes a lot of repetitive passes.

I now have a narrow 1/2 mile driveway. I'm about to grade out the high spots... I'm not looking forward to it.

 

[OrangeKrush]

Thanks, yeah Ohio gets cold in winter. Id guess this base is deep. I lived here 10 years, put gravel in 3 times myself. House built in 1961 so i assume a lit of base. Septic dudes have no issue. Gravel is fine except weeds. I hate spraying weed killers.
Question , do drag Harrows work for dressing away weeds ? I dont really have ruts or pot holes. Think because i use a blade on my Polaris to push snow. I dont want to make a mess going to deep with scarficers and if i do id think the drag would help it look nice after leveling. Bit im niew to this stuff.

I'm new to it but I now know that by putting the scarifers down a couple inches it takes out the weeds great, followed by leveling it out. My driveway to my garage was getting out of hand since my shoulder replacement. I've done it like 4 times so far and I just got it late last summer. Even better now that I got the correct top link! Now it's actually waveless.

I took measurements of top link when box is level front to back and when it's tilted for rear blade to just drag. Yea I could just eyeball it but it works great at those settings and depending on grade I'm setting on at that time it's just easier.

I just wish the BX had the 3pt settings stops, sometimes I feel like I'm over working the 3pt hydraulics.