BX2380 50 Hour, Lessons Learned

[Kevin1]

I just completed my first 50 hour service on my BX2380 and thought I would pass on a few things I have learned.

1. Oil and filter, really straight forward, very quick and easy process (replaced with Shell T5).

2. Transmission fluid and filter. Had to remove the BX Under Armor, only takes a couple of seconds but remember to rotate the dial to lower the mower hitch you have to have the 3 point hitch raised all the way. I don't have a mower deck so I had not messed with it since I had installed the Under Armor right after the tractor was delivered.

Fluid and filter very easy to access and change. Once all fluid drained I replaced the filter. I then removed the micro screen. A you will see in the picture there was quite a bit of contaminants, no metal, all gummy substance probably sealant. This was right at 50 hours so make sure you are checking this screen. Replaced fluid with super UDT2.

3. Fuel filters. Not required at 50 hour but changed anyway. The filter on the side of the engine was quick and easy and looked clean. The filter underneath next to the HST fan was a pain and took me the longest to do. The filter looked dirty (this is the first filter the fuel goes through coming off the tank).

4.Air Filter. Not required but replaced anyway. really quick and easy.

5. Greased tractor. Easy, remember the FEL gets greased every 10 hours not 50 like the tractor.

6. Tire pressure and bolt torque. I should have been checking tire pressure all along. I have had the tractor for 2 months and got it brand new from the dealer who also loaded my rear tires for me. The tires all looked normal by sight but were way off. Fronts were showing 5 PSI and should be at 22 PSI. Rear tires were showing about 32 PSI and should be at 17 PSI. Don't neglect this. All bolts were good.

The process took me about 4 hours (took my time). Now that I have broken the code the next time should be about half that. Hope this helps anyone about to go through the process.

 

[SLIMSHADIE]

Kevin good write up. I replaced all fluids too. Hst screen was pretty clean but the fluid looked like it had very fine flakes in it, worth the change in my opinion. I didnt change the air or fuel filter but soon learned I needed to install a shutoff on the first fuel filter. I ordered a metal 5/16” inline petcock off ebay for $11. I think I cut the hose, installed shutoff, used the excess to pump. Easy peasy to change it now. I have a buddy that rotates his fuel filters to save a buck. He throws the first filter to pump away, takes 2nd filter and installs it to the first. Installs new filter at 2nd location. In a pinch I may do this but I change both and always having all filters on hand too. One more thing, I did drain my front axle and refilled with Sudt2. Was it needed, probably not. Some use 80/90w oil but I snow plow with mine and still wanted some thin oil for that. It hasnt leaked in 5 years but if it started, I would switch to the heavier 80/90w oil.

 

[Scottsjeeprolet]

I'm looking for a list of the filter p/n's.
This would be great for buying individual filters and not spending a fortune at the Kubota dealer.

 

[jonmad]

I just completed my first 50 hour service on my BX2380 and thought I would pass on a few things I have learned.

1. Oil and filter, really straight forward, very quick and easy process (replaced with Shell T5).

2. Transmission fluid and filter. Had to remove the BX Under Armor, only takes a couple of seconds but remember to rotate the dial to lower the mower hitch you have to have the 3 point hitch raised all the way. I don't have a mower deck so I had not messed with it since I had installed the Under Armor right after the tractor was delivered.

Fluid and filter very easy to access and change. Once all fluid drained I replaced the filter. I then removed the micro screen. A you will see in the picture there was quite a bit of contaminants, no metal, all gummy substance probably sealant. This was right at 50 hours so make sure you are checking this screen. Replaced fluid with super UDT2.

3. Fuel filters. Not required at 50 hour but changed anyway. The filter on the side of the engine was quick and easy and looked clean. The filter underneath next to the HST fan was a pain and took me the longest to do. The filter looked dirty (this is the first filter the fuel goes through coming off the tank).

4.Air Filter. Not required but replaced anyway. really quick and easy.

5. Greased tractor. Easy, remember the FEL gets greased every 10 hours not 50 like the tractor.

6. Tire pressure and bolt torque. I should have been checking tire pressure all along. I have had the tractor for 2 months and got it brand new from the dealer who also loaded my rear tires for me. The tires all looked normal by sight but were way off. Fronts were showing 5 PSI and should be at 22 PSI. Rear tires were showing about 32 PSI and should be at 17 PSI. Don't neglect this. All bolts were good.

The process took me about 4 hours (took my time). Now that I have broken the code the next time should be about half that. Hope this helps anyone about to go through the process.

Thanks Kevin. Just did my 50 hour service as well. I used 80w 90w in the front axle at my dealers suggestion. I also found all lug nuts loose and had to torque to spec. My HST screen was clear but for a few metal flecks near the machined end. I did not change the fuel filter yet but I am only at 40 hours. I did adjust my neutral return spring as the tractor didn’t stop as quickly as my 2230 did. Now it does. Thanks again for sharing your experience.

 

[Lycomech96]

That hydraulic screen is very disturbing. I would show that photo to the service manager at the dealership. If that is sealant, somebody at the factory has some issues.
If you want to send it directly to corporate, here is the address:
Kubota Tractor Corporation
Customer Satisfaction Dept.
3401 Del Amo Blvd
Torrance, CA 90503

 

[skeets]

Its good to see guys doing this themselves and not listening to some dealer saying that if you do it yourself you will void the warranty. It aint so !!! And besides you get to learn a bit about your machine

 

[85Hokie]

That hydraulic screen is very disturbing. I would show that photo to the service manager at the dealership. If that is sealant, somebody at the factory has some issues.
If you want to send it directly to corporate, here is the address:
Kubota Tractor Corporation
Customer Satisfaction Dept.
3401 Del Amo Blvd
Torrance, CA 90503

Apparently that sealant is more prevalent that it was a while ago.....most people on the BX series had a little "stuff" on the screen at 50 hours - mine was almost scary clean......
the newer ones seem to have a lot of that "sealant" on them.

Does seem like someone has their finger on the trigger a little too long when applying the sealant Then again - it might be perfectly normal.

 

[jonmad]

Its good to see guys doing this themselves and not listening to some dealer saying that if you do it yourself you will void the warranty. It aint so !!! And besides you get to learn a bit about your machine

Agreed and you can save about half. 50 hour service is around $400.00 give or take. I paid around $200.00 for all filters and fluids. That was air filter, two fuel filters, oil filter and HST filter and fluids to change everything including front axle and MMM gearbox. Have a gallon of HST fluid left for next time. It’s not hard to do. So much to be learned on this forum and YouTube.

 

[RCW]

I'm looking for a list of the filter p/n's.
This would be great for buying individual filters and not spending a fortune at the Kubota dealer.

Try here - agree to terms, then model #. "Frequently Used Items" has a listing of many P/N's for filters, bulbs, fuses, etc.

https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/

Also, Messicks or Colemans has similar listings by model #.

 

[mattwithcats]

For that inline filter, try a Wix 33033 or Fram G15...

Metal can, 15 micron, 3/8 fitting, $2 - $4...

This and fuses can be found on RockAuto, under “Tools and Univesal Parts”...

https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/

I just bought some fuses, 75 cents, store price was $4-$5...
Just watch the shipping costs...

 

[dalola]

Apparently that sealant is more prevalent that it was a while ago.....most people on the BX series had a little "stuff" on the screen at 50 hours - mine was almost scary clean......
the newer ones seem to have a lot of that "sealant" on them.

Does seem like someone has their finger on the trigger a little too long when applying the sealant Then again - it might be perfectly normal.

When I did my 50 hr service a couple months ago, I was pleased to find the screen nearly spotless. I would expect a clean screen to be "normal".... if mine came out looking like the OP's, I would be in somebody's ear at Kubota Corp.

 

[GBJeffOH]

I have a L3540. Does it even have a micro screen?

 

[RCW]

I have a L3540. Does it even have a micro screen?

Go to the Kubota illustrated parts diagram link l posted earlier. If there is one, you will find it and learn some things about your tractor.

Sent from my QTASUN1 using Tapatalk

 

[RCW]

Go to the Kubota illustrated parts diagram link l posted earlier. If there is one, you will find it and learn some things about your tractor.

Sent from my QTASUN1 using Tapatalk

GBJeff - didn't mean that to sound snotty... I used the same site tonight to look at some parts for my own tractor I've had 5 years.
Always learn something there.
Also, get a workshop manual (WSM). Great resource.

Sent from my QTASUN1 using Tapatalk

 

[Kevin1]

I'm looking for a list of the filter p/n's.
This would be great for buying individual filters and not spending a fortune at the Kubota dealer.

Here you go, I think I got the kit on ebay.

 

[GeoHorn]

I'm looking for a list of the filter p/n's.
This would be great for buying individual filters and not spending a fortune at the Kubota dealer.

Fortune? What Fortune? I would agree.... usually... But in the case of Kubota... I'd simply buy the genuine article! Kubota filters really are better quality than the usual assortment available at discounts, and I've learned that the Kubota Genuine filters only cost 10% more or so than the cheap, poorly-constructed filters. That difference becomes real apparent when you cut them open and discover the insides are smaller, cheaper, less-well constructed despite the outward appearances of the spin-on "can". Even the "can" is different in many cases, the cheap ones being thinner and more easily dented by brush, etc. out in the field. Once that can is damaged, the innards such as the by-pass valve can be upset and the filter then NO LONGER FILTERS but by-passes all the new junk as well as all the previously-captured junk. While NAPA Gold, Baldwin, Wix, Donelson, etc are clearly better than Fram, STP, SuperTech, Puro, etc., .. they are not the same high quality as the genuine article. Not worth it to me on an item that stands between me and the reliability/health of my expensive tractor.
If you want to spend a "Fortune"... try using a cheap filter that kills your tractor hydraulics or engine. IMO

 

[losttrail61]

Hello. New to the Orange tractor world. Grew up in MT on JD, IH, Ford, MF, Case. Much bigger tractors of our own and ran really big stuff for neighbors.

Today we just ordered BX23S plus 54" mower deck. Will be ordering a pine needle rake soon. Will be delivered next Wednesday morning.

On the topic of changing fluids, dad taught us to always change more often than less.

On my new personal vehicles, car, truck, motorcycle, they always get a full change under 1,000 miles, generally closer to 500. Used vehicles have always been changed within 100 miles of taking possession.

Paranoid? Maybe, but just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you. Better safe than sorry.

Looking forward to learning a lot here.

 

[mattdavisbr]

Thanks for this. I'm on the verge of purchasing a BX2380. How do you feel about yours after a couple more years?

Can you please give me a ballpark cost on your annual maintenance? Thanks!

 

[JSL]

I just completed my first 50 hour service on my BX2380 and thought I would pass on a few things I have learned.

1. Oil and filter, really straight forward, very quick and easy process (replaced with Shell T5).

2. Transmission fluid and filter. Had to remove the BX Under Armor, only takes a couple of seconds but remember to rotate the dial to lower the mower hitch you have to have the 3 point hitch raised all the way. I don't have a mower deck so I had not messed with it since I had installed the Under Armor right after the tractor was delivered.

Fluid and filter very easy to access and change. Once all fluid drained I replaced the filter. I then removed the micro screen. A you will see in the picture there was quite a bit of contaminants, no metal, all gummy substance probably sealant. This was right at 50 hours so make sure you are checking this screen. Replaced fluid with super UDT2.

3. Fuel filters. Not required at 50 hour but changed anyway. The filter on the side of the engine was quick and easy and looked clean. The filter underneath next to the HST fan was a pain and took me the longest to do. The filter looked dirty (this is the first filter the fuel goes through coming off the tank).

4.Air Filter. Not required but replaced anyway. really quick and easy.

5. Greased tractor. Easy, remember the FEL gets greased every 10 hours not 50 like the tractor.

6. Tire pressure and bolt torque. I should have been checking tire pressure all along. I have had the tractor for 2 months and got it brand new from the dealer who also loaded my rear tires for me. The tires all looked normal by sight but were way off. Fronts were showing 5 PSI and should be at 22 PSI. Rear tires were showing about 32 PSI and should be at 17 PSI. Don't neglect this. All bolts were good.

The process took me about 4 hours (took my time). Now that I have broken the code the next time should be about half that. Hope this helps anyone about to go through the process.

I just got my first tractor and am not yet at the 50 hr mark yet, but reading you excellent walkthrough I am wondering how to check pressure on my tires which are filled with fluid to help with ballast.

 

[DustyRusty]

I just got my first tractor and am not yet at the 50 hr mark yet, but reading you excellent walkthrough I am wondering how to check pressure on my tires which are filled with fluid to help with ballast.

With the tire valve at the 12 o'clock position. I would also like to point out that filled tires will sometimes spin on the rim when the tire pressure is low, so I keep mine at 30 PSI. Another thing to consider is that the rubber tire valve stems that the tractors come from the factory with will deteriorate with age, and if at any time you are going to have the "filled" tires off of the car, you should consider changing the valve stems to metal stems.
I borrowed a tire bead breaker from a neighbor and with the tire and rim flat on the ground, stem pointed up, I was able to break the bead and push the tire down enough to get the metal tire valve into the hole. I just cut the rubber valve off and didn't worry about the part that fell inside the tire. I was more concerned about saving the solution that the dealer-installed. I consider metal valve stem replacement a necessary maintenance item to do early in the life of the tractor, and not having to think about it ever again.