Going to motorize my snowblower chute

[ctfjr]

Although I wanted a blower with hydraulic chute rotation and deflection like my last one, beggars can't be choosers. I found this Blizzard on Craigslist in 'like new' condition at a great price. It's now mounted and ready to go.
The more I looked at the manual rotation mechanism the more it looked like an easy conversion to an electric drive.
On ebay there was a motor that looked like it fit the bill:

1/17hp, reversible and 12v.

So I did a quick sketch of what I think is a plan:

The black plate will go on the underside of where it is shown and will be bent so the motor shaft and my extension (white) line up. With any luck I won't need a universal joint. The existing manual shaft is secured by a screw (between the universal joint and clamp).

The wiring is pretty trivial. I have a 6 fuse block under the fender and a dpdt momentary switch on the way.

Am I missing something? The motor shaft is just under 50rpm. Should I use the universal joint anyway? flexible coupler?

 

[bird dogger]

As long as your motor shaft lines up perfectly with the chute rotaion shaft you shouldn't need a flex coupler. Adding shims where needed to your motor mount brackets should get things lined up. But if a small flex coupler is handy too, ......then why not?

I have a dc motor for chute rotaion on my blower. But the motor and the rotation screw are all mounted on the same plate so lining things up was really simple. That could be another option for you.

 

[DustyRusty]

Just keep in mind, that when the chute gets to the end of the gear teeth, that if you go past that point, it will break the heavy wire turning mechanism. You could avoid this by cutting additional teeth in the bottom plate, so they go all the way around. Better to have a face full of snow, than to break an expensive part. I speak from experience, having done this project almost 20 years ago.

 

[bird dogger]

I should have mentioned the extra "teeth" issue as well. My chute's ring gear has teeth all the way around. I know I'm asleep at the helm when the snow is pounding the rear window of the cab!

 

[torch]

Make sure the DPDT is center-off.

50 rpm might be a bit slow -- certainly slower than a hydraulic motor. I would guess about 30 seconds or so from left to right. I imagine that the motor actually spins much faster but has a gear reduction mechanism, which should boost the torque considerably. You will need the torque -- those darn chutes tend to freeze in place under the right (wrong?) weather conditions.

You don't need a flexible coupling if you get the angle right. But it wouldn't hurt, just in case you don't.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Use the coupling as there's no way you'll get the 2 shafts 100% inline. File a flat on the shaft so the setscrew bind tight. Use a 'sleeve of bicycle tube and 2 tyraps to make a booty for the coupling,squirt some thick Rustcheck in to oil and protect it.
Be sure the gearmotor and mounting plate are secure ! There's a wee bit of vibration when running a snowblower.
Unlike inearactuators, that gearmotor won't have 'end stop shutoff', so use a resettable circuit breaker to feed power to it. If you use regualr fuses, you'll blow them when the chute gets full left or right ,as current draw goes sky high then.

 

[ctfjr]

Thanks for everyone's replies and suggestions. I hadn't really given much thought to the rotation end point - I didn't think it had one, it does. Looks like ~280-290 degrees of rotation. For now I'll have to be careful.
I will probably check the stall current and build an electronic foldback 'fuse'. That will have to be later though. With the temps where they have been I am really surprised we haven't had a real snowfall yet.
The bicycle tube 'sock' is a great idea. I will certainly adapt something like that over the universal joint.
The motor comes with a U joint so I may as well use it. Will keep a photo record of my progress n post when done.
Thanks again!

 

[Thunder chicken]

Looks like a fun project! I’m sure it’s turn into a rats nest of wiring, but it should be possible to have a limit switch for each direction, a micro switch won’t hold up but a magnetic proximity switch may work with some creativity?

 

[ctfjr]

An update. . .
Of course the motor didn't come with he Lovejoy coupler. It was just in the picture for display purposes. No problem. I have a couple on order that should be here in 2 days.
The wiring is complete. Several steps to it. First I had to replace the cord/plug that came with it.

Then test it to make sure I didn't fubar it completely.

And on the tractor side install waterproof plug on the angle going between the rops

Install new lighted dpdt (center off) switch in the unused draft control slot

Wired it all to the fuse block I had previously installed in the left fender. Plug it in and test it.

It works! Unfortunately my friend who welded up the mounting plate got the angle backwards. Instead of a 75deg angle he made it 105 degrees. When he dropped it off I really felt badly telling him. You can see the angle is about 15deg on the shaft with the worm gear. The mating face should be 'leaned in' that 15 degrees.
He really did a great welding job and after looking at the piece I realize 1/4" steel is waaaay overkill especially since he put two gussets on it. He should have a new one to me in a day or so. btw he is the gentleman I sold my L3400 to a few years ago (10 yrs old, 130 hours). He has as much wax on it now as I have grease on my current machine.

 

[torch]

Nice job.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks for everyone's replies and suggestions. I hadn't really given much thought to the rotation end point - I didn't think it had one, it does. Looks like ~280-290 degrees of rotation. For now I'll have to be careful.
I will probably check the stall current and build an electronic foldback 'fuse'. That will have to be later though. With the temps where they have been I am really surprised we haven't had a real snowfall yet.
The bicycle tube 'sock' is a great idea. I will certainly adapt something like that over the universal joint.
The motor comes with a U joint so I may as well use it. Will keep a photo record of my progress n post when done.
Thanks again!

Limit switches are cheap and easy to wire in.

Dan

 

[ctfjr]

I'm not seeing how a simple limit would help Dan. This is a 2 wire motor. Reversing the polarity reverses the rotational direction. If I break the circuit with a limit I'm dead in the water and can't move the motor in either direction. . .

 

[torch]

I'm not seeing how a simple limit would help Dan. This is a 2 wire motor. Reversing the polarity reverses the rotational direction. If I break the circuit with a limit I'm dead in the water and can't move the motor in either direction. . .

Use a pair of relays. NC terminal of each relay to ground, NO terminal of each relay to power, common terminal of one relay to motor +, common terminal of second relay to motor. Control switch poles actuate one relay coil each, through the limit switches.

In operation, when rotated to the limit, the limit switch opens, interrupting power to the respective relay coil, killing power (IE: relay turns off). But now that motor lead is connected through it's relay to ground, so when you move the control switch the opposite way, applying power to the other relay and energizing the other lead, the motor can operate in the opposite direction -- until the other limit switch is actuated.

 

[ctfjr]

Thanks Torch! an elegant way to do it.

When I get to that point I think I'm going to a 'smart' solution, an Arduino. With a simple current sensor that the Arduino can convert to a readable voltage, it can then do an almost unlimited response. For example it can kill the supply voltage, issue an audible or visual alarm and restore the power after a set time or require a switch actuation to restore power. The responses are limited by my imagination.

I am learning about Arduinos and this would be a simple and useful project to apply one. As a bonus once I have the Arduino installed on the tractor there are other monitoring metrics I can do with it - oil temp & pressure, water temp, battery charging current and voltage. . .

I just need the time

 

[torch]

I have played with Arduinos a bit myself. One can program them to perform a wide variety of tasks and there are a multitude of sensors and shields available. For example, I have one in my boathouse that monitors air and water temperature, barometric pressure, lake water level and humidity, sending all the results to a database by wifi. I have another controlling an egg incubator, maintaining, adjusting and displaying the temperature and humidity levels as required. I have even used them in parallel for more advanced robotics endeavours.

I'm just not sure they are robust enough to survive my tractor. Standard 12v automotive relays can take a pounding.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I'm not seeing how a simple limit would help Dan. This is a 2 wire motor. Reversing the polarity reverses the rotational direction. If I break the circuit with a limit I'm dead in the water and can't move the motor in either direction. . .

Two parallel supplies (four conductors) to the motor fed by your DPDT switch. Limit switch in each supply. When one is open the other is closed allowing you to reverse the motor.

Dan

 

[ctfjr]

And its finished - just some touch up to do.

Demo of electric chute

I want to wrap that U joint with some kind of grease tube per GreensvilleJay's suggestion. Also have to come to terms with some kind of limit switches

Here is a closeup of the motor / mount assembly. I didn't realize the U joint came without set screws. I had to tap them. A new learning experience.

I had original calculated that the angle should be 72 degs for the mounting plate. Then I just assumed the worm gear was at 15degs and my calcs were off. So I had the bracket made at 75degs. If I had gone with my measurements the alignment would have been much closer.

 

[bird dogger]

And its finished - just some touch up to do.

Demo of electric chute

I want to wrap that U joint with some kind of grease tube per GreensvilleJay's suggestion. Also have to come to terms with some kind of limit switches

Here is a closeup of the motor / mount assembly. I didn't realize the U joint came without set screws. I had to tap them. A new learning experience.

View attachment 71536

I had original calculated that the angle should be 72 degs for the mounting plate. Then I just assumed the worm gear was at 15degs and my calcs were off. So I had the bracket made at 75degs. If I had gone with my measurements the alignment would have been much closer.

That works nice! Not real fast but not slow either. You may not need to fab up some limit switches.

 

[RCW]

And its finished - just some touch up to do.

Demo of electric chute

I want to wrap that U joint with some kind of grease tube per GreensvilleJay's suggestion. Also have to come to terms with some kind of limit switches

Here is a closeup of the motor / mount assembly. I didn't realize the U joint came without set screws. I had to tap them. A new learning experience.

View attachment 71536

I had original calculated that the angle should be 72 degs for the mounting plate. Then I just assumed the worm gear was at 15degs and my calcs were off. So I had the bracket made at 75degs. If I had gone with my measurements the alignment would have been much closer.

I've stuck with manual rotation for my front-mount BX2750D. I don't do it any faster.

I think you're golden.

I have the OEM rotation kit still in the box. Heard it was problematic before I put it on.

Your install looks much better. Job well done!

Never saw a need for chute elevation....I almost always throw for distance.

 

[torch]

How many seconds from stop to stop? From the video it appears slightly faster than my earlier guestimate of 30 seconds.

BTW: Looks like the Blizzard is made by Radtech, the same people who actually make the Kubota B2789. What is the cutting width on yours?