Damn 830 hours!! I thought I had a lot on my 2017 with 584 hours lol. Great machines though!830 hours on my 3301 no problem with regen, happens 20 -30 hrs all depends on your operating rpms, higher rpms less it regens.
Damn 830 hours!! I thought I had a lot on my 2017 with 584 hours lol. Great machines though!830 hours on my 3301 no problem with regen, happens 20 -30 hrs all depends on your operating rpms, higher rpms less it regens.
I've got 71 hours on my 3901DT and it's only done one regen so far. Took about 10 minutes. That was at 38 hours, so I expect another one anytime now. I use mine about half the time to bush hog a 10 acre field and run it around 2300-2400 rpm. Other uses are general loading and scraping at a bit lower rpm. I guess the field work keeps the DPF burned off pretty good.830 hours on my 3301 no problem with regen, happens 20 -30 hrs all depends on your operating rpms, higher rpms less it regens.
Just wondering how much loader/bucket creep down you all have on your 3301/3901 tractors? My loader when sitting drops at least an 1” per hour. I know there is an allowable creep down spec but I’m not sure what it is ..
Does everyone with the 2501,3301,3901 la525 loader have the same creep issue on their loaders/buckets? Just asking one more time. Thx.Just wondering how much loader/bucket creep down you all have on your 3301/3901 tractors? My loader when sitting drops at least an 1” per hour. I know there is an allowable creep down spec but I’m not sure what it is ..
No. I have an L2501 with the LA525 loader. If I leave the loader about 4 feet off the ground and shut the machine down, it might have dropped 4 inches 24 hours later. Seriously. Now granted, it is only 6 months old at this point.Does everyone with the 2501,3301,3901 la525 loader have the same creep issue on their loaders/buckets? Just asking one more time. Thx.
I'm 20 hours in on a new L3901 and am looking at probably doing the 50 hour maintenance in a month or so. Just wondering if anybody has any advice going into this. I've done all of the respective filters on other tractors and am comfortable with these, but am wondering if there is anything I should be aware of...who has L3901 and L3301 out there like to see if we can have a go to for.issues and topics concerning this series of tractors.
We've (dealer) Sold probably 200 L3301 and probably 150 L3901's. Of those, 2 have been in for DPF cleanings due to hired hands ignoring the lights and beepers and derating of the horsepower. I don't know how; but they did. Rest are all hood replacements and PM. Oh and two wire harnesses and one flywheel (that one was a doozie!)
Finally got one that failed. Of course at first, we know nothing of it's history. Hood up diagmaster and find 6 codes all pertaining to the fuel system, high rail pressure and low rail pressure among other things. Tractor won't start (turns over fine, just won't kick off) so we're suspecting a delivery issue. Checked tank and fuel quality, looks good. Checked electric pump output-good. Removed line from supply pump and WATER comes out, pure water. Weellllll....I think we have a problem. I had the service manager call the customer & explain what we found, and in the meantime I got in touch with folks who know these things better than I. It was explained to me that the old style mechanical injection is somewhat tolerant of water but INtolerant of air. Well common rail system is opposite. They're a little more tolerant of air, INtolerant of water. Turns out that the suction control valve is STUCK open, thus it won't build any pressure to start the engine. Pressure should be really high on these (a LOT higher than mechanical injection, up to 10x higher). Customer calls back & says that they got a bad batch of diesel. More like they got a bad batch of water from the diesel station and the water tank was topped off with a little diesel. Said they removed all the "fuel" from tank and replaced the filter with one they sourced from NAPA.
That pump is about $3000 or so and since the bore of the SCV was likely damaged, it's the best and only option. That $3500 is not counting labor.
replacing it is not fun, but not impossible. Remove hood, dash, meter panel, fuel tank, fuel tank support, sub tank, bracketry, hoses, lines, throttle valve assembly, fuel rail, EGR valve, intake manifold, then lift the pump out of the block. Took me about 6 hours, I think I can do it in half that now that I've done one. Basically like a newer diesel pickup. If you have to work on it, you simply start removing stuff until you get to the part that needs attention-and there's a lot to remove to gain access to a supply pump on an L01.
Kubota does not endorse any other filter other than their own and if it came down to doing a scan on the fuel, if they find dirt particles in the pump/lines post-filter and find that an aftermarket filter is installed, they can (and will) deny the repair. They haven't done this yet, but the dealers have been warned that it will start happening. They're already doing oil and coolant analyses. It's not that they're trying to find ways to not pay up, it's that they're trying to find out why things fail-and the analyses point them in a better direction, which helps them build better equipment. Likewise, as a dealer tech, we're the same way but we have to answer to Kubota just the same, ultimately they make the decisions.
I have a SCV bad on my 3901. Will it still take about 6 hours to replace only the SCV or can you leave the the EGR, Fuel rail, intake manifold and pump installed and still get the SCV replaced?We've (dealer) Sold probably 200 L3301 and probably 150 L3901's. Of those, 2 have been in for DPF cleanings due to hired hands ignoring the lights and beepers and derating of the horsepower. I don't know how; but they did. Rest are all hood replacements and PM. Oh and two wire harnesses and one flywheel (that one was a doozie!)
Finally got one that failed. Of course at first, we know nothing of it's history. Hood up diagmaster and find 6 codes all pertaining to the fuel system, high rail pressure and low rail pressure among other things. Tractor won't start (turns over fine, just won't kick off) so we're suspecting a delivery issue. Checked tank and fuel quality, looks good. Checked electric pump output-good. Removed line from supply pump and WATER comes out, pure water. Weellllll....I think we have a problem. I had the service manager call the customer & explain what we found, and in the meantime I got in touch with folks who know these things better than I. It was explained to me that the old style mechanical injection is somewhat tolerant of water but INtolerant of air. Well common rail system is opposite. They're a little more tolerant of air, INtolerant of water. Turns out that the suction control valve is STUCK open, thus it won't build any pressure to start the engine. Pressure should be really high on these (a LOT higher than mechanical injection, up to 10x higher). Customer calls back & says that they got a bad batch of diesel. More like they got a bad batch of water from the diesel station and the water tank was topped off with a little diesel. Said they removed all the "fuel" from tank and replaced the filter with one they sourced from NAPA.
That pump is about $3000 or so and since the bore of the SCV was likely damaged, it's the best and only option. That $3500 is not counting labor.
replacing it is not fun, but not impossible. Remove hood, dash, meter panel, fuel tank, fuel tank support, sub tank, bracketry, hoses, lines, throttle valve assembly, fuel rail, EGR valve, intake manifold, then lift the pump out of the block. Took me about 6 hours, I think I can do it in half that now that I've done one. Basically like a newer diesel pickup. If you have to work on it, you simply start removing stuff until you get to the part that needs attention-and there's a lot to remove to gain access to a supply pump on an L01.
Kubota does not endorse any other filter other than their own and if it came down to doing a scan on the fuel, if they find dirt particles in the pump/lines post-filter and find that an aftermarket filter is installed, they can (and will) deny the repair. They haven't done this yet, but the dealers have been warned that it will start happening. They're already doing oil and coolant analyses. It's not that they're trying to find ways to not pay up, it's that they're trying to find out why things fail-and the analyses point them in a better direction, which helps them build better equipment. Likewise, as a dealer tech, we're the same way but we have to answer to Kubota just the same, ultimately they make the decisions.
My new MX has a rubber floor mat.The Kubota's with the rubber floor mat are the Grand L series, that's an upgrade with the series along with the larger platform and lots of other stuff.
Or MXGo with the Grand L series next time, bigger footprint and hence more stable.... just a thought.
Wow, 33 regins with 444 hours. Seems a lot to me but I know nothing about how or what you do with your 3901. I have a 3301 HST and it has only regened eight to ten times with 435 hours. However mine is used mostly for brush hogging and moved a lot of dirt and gravel while preparing a build site. I do operate at quite high rpm also.I have a K3901DT with 444 hours on it. It has regen-ed 33 times so far without any problems.
I'm very happy with the tractor, it has done everything I have asked of it.
The only thing that I would like is the seat safety switch to be in the middle of the seat so you can lean to the right without it causing the engine to shut down.
I use it mostly for firewood (mostly during the winter) and maintaining our driveway and private road. So the only time I get passive regen is on the road work.Wow, 33 regins with 444 hours. Seems a lot to me but I know nothing about how or what you do with your 3901. I have a 3301 HST and it has only regened eight to ten times with 435 hours. However mine is used mostly for brush hogging and moved a lot of dirt and gravel while preparing a build site. I do operate at quite high rpm also.
Only gripe about my 3301 is the crummy cable thing that operates the pto.
Never checked the fuel usage but that sounds about right for bush hogging.I use it mostly for firewood (mostly during the winter) and maintaining our driveway and private road. So the only time I get passive regen is on the road work.
40+ hour between regens is pretty good. The most I have gone between regens is 16 hours.
I have gotten an ave of 2.2 hour per gallon, do you have any idea what you are getting?
Since I have a L3901DT, I don't have the problem with the PTO cable.
Can you burn? I want a chipper, but burning is much cheaper. I also have a bunch of wood that's been on the ground and wouldn't be good for a chipper.L3301 HST backhoe with 25hr. It did regen at 15 hrs, oddly right after I added fuel. It was an awkward time for the light to come on (was just moving tractor to storage) then was blinking and I wasn't sure exactly what to do, but sticker on fender tells you... basically just throttle up. Took about 15 min for light to come off.
I think fuel consumption is about 1.5 gallons per hour running it mostly PTO RPM or wide open throttle. I find the tractor HST whines too much and is weak unless throttle is high, but not too high...sounds and hydraulics more smooth at PTO RPM (rather than wide open) and the extra little RPM above that I save for situations where 'just need a little more power.'
Got lots of steep hills on trails and it handles fine (power and stability). Definitely need to switch to L as it feels like M is struggling. If it's flat, you can use M to move quicker when moving material, but for any digging you want to be in L. I kinda like just using L as M can be too fast and jerky with a full bucket + hills. H lets go you fast on roads, but useless for anything else.
Keep thinking if I should have gotten a L3901, though L3301 is identical engine just detuned (less fuel injection). I wanted to, but it wasn't available and backlogged due to shortages, but a dealer had a L3301 that just arrived + backhoe in stock (zero available in NC area and backlogged 2-6 months atm). Every time I use it, I don't find power to be a limiting factor, but rather weight. Even with backhoe, loader, and loaded R4 tires, the tractor is a good ~4500 LB, yet the backhoe can still overpower it and I want more weight for loader ground engagement. Have construction attachments tooth bar on the bucket and bxpanded backhoe mechanical thumb, ripper, trencher, and 16 inch bucket. It's a beast and does what I ask, but has me wondering what if I had that extra weight and power of the L47...it's still 'light' for ground engagement work IMO. I'm doing mostly loader and backhoe work atm, but in the spring will bush hog and wood chip, so will see how that goes.
I got land pride 42 inch/ 3000 LB pallet forks. Tractor can lift and move 1000 LB comfortably. That is 1000 LB of material on top of a pallet and including forks. I added 200 more LB and it handled it fine too...I didn't get around to finding the limit, but 1200 LB of material could be lifted yet curl was stuck (+350 for forks + probably 50 for pallet) or 1600LB total is a probably all that it can do (just moving and probably wont lift high enough to unload from a truck). Might be able to get up a 1000 LB skid unloaded which I plan to test (sack of aggregate). It's hard to see and position the pallet forks when they're on the ground...I have to stand up. With a light weight grapple and that weight closer to the loader arms, I think it could get a 2k log off the ground. I would like 3500LB of the ground weight and think L47 or MX would be more appropriate for that, but 2k is definitely workable.
I got the third function and 2 remotes installed when I got it. The land pride third function front male coupler has a tiny leak near the bucket. Also some leaks around joystick connections...not too happy about that and been meaning to call dealer I got it from, but problem is they are 2 hrs away (I have another local dealer that's 20 min, but they didn't install the third party/ land pride kit). Will be using grapple to clean areas and move logs for sawmill later. The remotes (1 float, 1 detent) I mainly got for an offset flail mower, but after research, probably wont do that and instead use top and tilt for rotary cutter and box blade.
I got some nice floor mats from a member here, some addons from zookswelding (loader chainsaw holder, bucket chain hooks), a really custom sleek ROPS LED setup (lights up everything around like daylight), lown performance front guard, and a custom right loader arm tool box for chain.
Overall I'm happy. I got it 0% down 84 month financing (ended up putting down 1k to keep payment at exactly budget). After all the hydraulic stuff I added, taxes, kobuta insurance, backhoe, it was about 40k. The cost of the mods and attachments is the killer part atm because I still need grapple, chipper, rotary cutter, box blade, tiller, and more. Those are back ordered 3-12 months and cost ~20% more than last year. Hope to get them bundled into another financing deal in the next 6 months when hopefully inventory situation settles maybe...after research, I think land pride makes good stuff compared to the others.