Time for greasing everything

jyoutz

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MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
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Worth their weight in gold!

I first bought one for work, county employees don't like to grease anything! Really helped in muscling old grease through for new to get in. Since then, have bought 3 more for the crews and 2 for myself.
I have a pneumatic grease gun that my air compressor powers. I’m thinking that it is similar to these electric guns.
 

GeoHorn

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Ha Ha…. I”m thinking of the guys (not the ones in THIS thread, of course) who worry themselves to death about how much money they have to spend on grease and the cost of different types they may have to keep on-hand (2)… but will pony-up quickly to buy a $200 electric/pnuematic grease gun because they’re unwilling to pump a lever…. :ROFLMAO:
 
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Old_Paint

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I keep my loader grease (Red 'n Tacky) in my pneumatic gun. I still have an old hand pumper that I fill with GP grease for my mower spindles, trailer axles, and stuff like that. Those things tend to need less grease maintenance than a loader or things that don't spin. They normally have a seal running on the shaft to keep the grease and dirt in their respective appropriate places. If it spins at high speed, the grease shouldn't be too thick. If it doesn't spin, the thicker the better to maintain lubrication under severe pressure. Molybdenum isn't recommended for roller/ball bearings.

But, as so many have said, OFTEN is the best grease, especially on pinned joints like hydraulic cylinder connections and even tie rod ends (if they're serviceable). Unless you've removed your stickers, your loader will have a label on it that says grease every 10 hours. Get LOTS of rags, you're gonna make a mess if you grease as often as you need to. I usually clean the old grease off first, then put a couple shots on each pin, and look for it coming out at the cylinder/pivot joints, then leave that until next time. If it's oozing out too much and falling on the floor, then just back off one shot next time. Ya want a little ooze, just to make sure you're pushing dirt out of the joint and making a seal to keep some of it out until next time.

Speaking of which, I need to go get some GP. I'm out.
 
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Jon2288

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bx2380 - FEL, quick hitch, PF, DO MMM
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When I had the dealer tech. out I asked the question about grease recommendations, he said that you want to use something high heat safe for the mower deck (because of fast spinning motion) and for loader/other joints should be ok with general purpose grease. Obviously, based on what the manuals say is different (specifically for the loader). I've had no problems using the same grease on both, though time may tell.
 

Pau7220

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L3650 GST, Landpride TL250 FEL w/ Piranha, 6' King Kutter, GM1084R Finish
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I keep hearing this....
Molybdenum isn't recommended for roller/ball bearings.
Then there's this.....
At one point required by Ford for any vehicle with disc brakes and serviceable wheel bearings. I'd still be using it if it had a tack additive. It just seems to wipe/wash away easily.


 
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Nicksacco

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I have a manual and a Ryobi grease gun with an extension and the Lock & Lube tip.
Works fabulous.
Something I do too is to cap all the Zerk fittings whether they be on my truck, tractor, motorcycle or whatever. The fitting is then always clean.
The caps can be found most anywhere (ebay, amazon) but I've had the best performance from the YELLOW style in the pics below. They are larger and attach more securely.

I think it was a Neal Messick video on grease where he says he'd rather see a greasy tractor come in than a pristine one! It shows the owner was fastidious and ensured all points were lubricated. I got a chuckle out of that.

Here's a couple of grease-related vids. Lots of information for sure.


 

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RichardAaronlx2610

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Lx2610 Cab, Fel, Backhoe, Grapple, Box Grader, Forks
Aug 3, 2021
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I keep hearing this....

Then there's this.....
At one point required by Ford for any vehicle with disc brakes and serviceable wheel bearings. I'd still be using it if it had a tack additive. It just seems to wipe/wash away easily.


If you spray a little bit of wd40 onto grease that’s on your machine, it makes it really easy to clean off
 

GeoHorn

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I keep hearing this....

Then there's this.....
At one point required by Ford for any vehicle with disc brakes and serviceable wheel bearings. I'd still be using it if it had a tack additive. It just seems to wipe/wash away easily.


That is an excellent illustration as to why merchandizing/advertisment statements by mfr’s are unreliable. Mil-spec, MSDS and (especially) ASTM standards of engineering are not influenced by mfr’s desires to sell their product.
 

PaulR

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BX 23S -- 100 hours seat time so far
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damn you guys for costing me more money.
I didn't know I needed that Milwaukee 18V gun until I saw it.
Now I must have it!
 

GeoHorn

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I have 4 grease-guns…all are manual …(3 lever and one pistol type…each loaded with a different type of grease for convenience)…. They are ALL more than ten years old…one of them 20+…and they NEVER FAIL. I think the most I’ve ever paid for any of them was $18.

This is like back in the early 60’s and electric can-openers came out. We all laughed at the thought ..FIRST that a household relied so much on CANNED FOOD (as opposed to fresh/scratch-made) that they needed a can-opener solution more complicated than the ones everyone already-owned.(pliers with a turn-key)….
…Secondly, that the minimal effort necessary to open a can would need anything “automatic” To accomplish such a simple task.

A decade later…. It would be impossible to locate a manual can opener in our house. :LOL:

Now, FOUR decades later, …our family relies upon a plastic-handled, key-turned opener that unseals the can instead of cutting it open…. IF… IF..we use a canned product at all. (well…I guess dog food counts…but THAT comes in a “zip-top” lid anyway.)

I still refuse to buy an electric or pneumatic or nuclear powered grease gun. :rolleyes: YOu guys are lazy, spoiled, and must be rich.:p

I wonder if anyone will ever invent a universal battery system for tools so I don’t have to invest another $500 to keep my lithium-battery screwdrivers, impact-drivers, recip-saws, rotary/”Skil” saws, and work-lights powered-up….. :ROFLMAO:
 
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nbryan

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B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
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All I use is Lucas X-tra HD grease for everything.
It's compatible with pretty much all other common greases.
It flows nicely in the cold, stays in pace in the heat, doesn't wash out, is great for high speed bearings AND loader/backhoe pins etc..
I highly recommend it.
 

Old_Paint

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LX2610SU, LA535 FEL w/54" bucket, LandPride BB1248, Woodland Mills WC-68
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I have 4 grease-guns…all are manual …(3 lever and one pistol type…each loaded with a different type of grease for convenience)…. They are ALL more than ten years old…one of them 20+…and they NEVER FAIL. I think the most I’ve ever paid for any of them was $18.

This is like back in the early 60’s and electric can-openers came out. We all laughed at the thought ..FIRST that a household relied so much on CANNED FOOD (as opposed to fresh/scratch-made) that they needed a can-opener solution more complicated than the ones everyone already-owned.(pliers with a turn-key)….
…Secondly, that the minimal effort necessary to open a can would need anything “automatic” To accomplish such a simple task.

A decade later…. It would be impossible to locate a manual can opener in our house. :LOL:

Now, FOUR decades later, …our family relies upon a plastic-handled, key-turned opener that unseals the can instead of cutting it open…. IF… IF..we use a canned product at all. (well…I guess dog food counts…but THAT comes in a “zip-top” lid anyway.)

I still refuse to buy an electric or pneumatic or nuclear powered grease gun. :rolleyes: YOu guys are lazy, spoiled, and must be rich.:p

I wonder if anyone will ever invent a universal battery system for tools so I don’t have to invest another $500 to keep my lithium-battery screwdrivers, impact-drivers, recip-saws, rotary/”Skil” saws, and work-lights powered-up….. :ROFLMAO:
I giggled all the way through this one, Geo.

Our electric can opener, because we DID cook from scratch, was a CAT food opener because that was all still in STEEL cans back then. As you say, it's all in plastic now.

The beauty of a grease gun is that it's self lubricating. Hard to make it fail, unless you get trash in it.

As for being lazy, a pneumatic gun will put a lot more hydraulic pressure on the grease than the manual one will, and sometimes clear a blocked zerk. Not the most ideal thing to do to push whatever had it blocked into the sleeve and pin surfaces, but better than taking the FEL apart because of a zerk. I have to accept that pins and sleeves are normal wear items on something I constantly stick in the dirt. I can only try to minimize it by constantly pushing the old grease out with new grease. So far, it's working for me.

Lazy, no, arthritic, yes. Rich, absolutely not. I'm stingy and cheap. But, even when I had one arm in an immobilizing sling from rotator cuff surgery, and the other was only 4 months recovered from the same, I could grease my tractor with the squeeze of a trigger. Ain't no way I could operate a pump type. I bought a cheap pneumatic one from Harbor Freight. All it needs is a better tip for the zerks, which at the moment, I"m too stingy to buy. Maybe when I get really tired of getting the stuff off my hands .... I use it for the grease I use the most of. Makes sense to do that. The other, yep, it's a hand pump that I've had for the better part of 40 years. Got it to grease my vehicles when they still put zerks on the suspension joints, etc. That design went the way of the dodo bird. Use it for driveshaft u-joints now (2 shots each joint every time I use them). A tube of lithium grease in that lasts a LONG time.

Afterthought popped in. As for the name brand of grease or which gimmicky advert now, I get a decent quality grease for the least amount of money possible, especially for the FEL and high pressure needs. It's just going to fall/sling off anyway, tacky or not. I use a highly tacky (aka highly smearing) grease on those points, and a good quality but inexpensive lithium grease on the rotating stuff with bearings. The point is, I grease, and I grease often. I don't have worn parts. If you can grease something without getting it on you, you're probably not using enough.
 
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kubotafreak

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All I use is Lucas X-tra HD grease for everything.
It's compatible with pretty much all other common greases.
It flows nicely in the cold, stays in pace in the heat, doesn't wash out, is great for high speed bearings AND loader/backhoe pins etc..
I highly recommend it.
Have you found a store that carries it in the tubes? Ive got a tub of it, and I agree its some good multi use stuff. Green in color.
 
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nbryan

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B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
Jan 3, 2019
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Hadashville, Manitoba, Canada
Have you found a store that carries it in the tubes? Ive got a tub of it, and I agree its some good multi use stuff. Green in color.
I can get Lucas Xtra HD grease tubes here in Canada at Canadian Tire and other auto stores, but in my case I ended up buying a 10-pack case of tubes online, https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07J1WV5SG, for a much better price per tube than CTire.
 
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RCW

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Have you found a store that carries it in the tubes? Ive got a tub of it, and I agree its some good multi use stuff. Green in color.
I think I've seen it in Lowes.
 
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Pau7220

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L3650 GST, Landpride TL250 FEL w/ Piranha, 6' King Kutter, GM1084R Finish
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That is an excellent illustration as to why merchandizing/advertisment statements by mfr’s are unreliable. Mil-spec, MSDS and (especially) ASTM standards of engineering are not influenced by mfr’s desires to sell their product.
You could always call Ashland oil engineers and notify them how wrong they are.
But, Ford (and Mack) set the spec... Valvoline made the product to meet it. It's on the PI sheet. Same product has been around for 40+ years.
 
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Pau7220

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L3650 GST, Landpride TL250 FEL w/ Piranha, 6' King Kutter, GM1084R Finish
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Scranton, PA
Sheesh... this site hates iPads!
 
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DDCD

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I watched the Kubota field tech do a full initial buy checklist on my tractor. He used the same grease/gun for the tractor. I do the same.