Need advice how to disable non-functional "safety" sensors

David M

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BX2660, FEL, MMM, rear blade, box blade, post hole digger (PHD.), 3 pt hitch hel
Jan 10, 2010
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north Alabama
2009 BX2660. For a couple years now, she's been getting more and more cantankerous about the so-called "safety switches." Now, I can't even crank her, most likely due to the lawn mower (cutting deck) engage lever. I understand there is a point on the starter (or solenoid?) where I can ground all the "safety" switches but I don't know where to attach the ground wire or which wire to reroute to that point. Can someone please help me with this? I can't afford to let her sit this season while someone else mows my small yard. If you can show me a picture as well, that would sure help! Thanks.
 

Steve Neul

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B5200
Jun 3, 2017
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A lot of those switches are just contact switches. Often if you just bypass the switch you disable the device. I was nearly killed onetime because of a safety switch. I was driving the tractor next to my pond which had a 10' drop on that side and the front wheel dropped off into a hole some animal made and the tractor nearly rolled in. I was able to lean far enough over to stop the roll but because of the switch in the seat it turned the tractor off so I was unable to back out of it. I just unplugged the wire from the seat and run a U-shaped wire from one wire to the other in the plug to disable it.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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1st step.. get a good,readable correct wiring diagram for your tractor !!!
2nd, find the switch of interest and see HOW it needs to be wired for 'running' mode, Rewire as required. Some switches are simple 'on-off' 2 connections, others get 'tricky' BOTH NO and NC switches in one package. Others (some rider seat switches) 'should' be 'unplug to go' BUT there's ANOTHER set of contacts in the harness end of the connector that 'magically' failsafe so no start.....

It was a LOT simpler in the good old dayze.....
 

Henro

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There have been a number of threads here and at TBN where people had similar issues and solved them by using a relay between the safety circuit contacts and the starter solenoid. If you do a search, you my find one of them.

BUT this solution is for times that the solenoid will click, but not close enough for the starter to turn over.

If your situation is actually a failed safety switch, the interposing relay would be of no help to you. In that case you probably should replace the bad switch. OR, if it is a switch of debatable usefulness, then maybe eliminate it. At your own risk, naturally.

Just a thought...
 

David M

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BX2660, FEL, MMM, rear blade, box blade, post hole digger (PHD.), 3 pt hitch hel
Jan 10, 2010
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north Alabama
Simple, but not possible. Not enough money for that. Eliminating some of the switches is actually preferable. However, apparently, some of them are normally open and some normally closed. Worse still, most are buried in the guts of the tractor and are a BEAR to even get to. That's what made me think of the common ground and simply eliminate all of them at the same time.
Btw, one of the schematics shows a horn circuit for a BX2660. I didn't know I had a horn; I see no place for one.
So, first looking for an easy, simple fix if there is one.
 

Henro

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Simple, but not possible. Not enough money for that. Eliminating some of the switches is actually preferable. However, apparently, some of them are normally open and some normally closed. Worse still, most are buried in the guts of the tractor and are a BEAR to even get to. That's what made me think of the common ground and simply eliminate all of them at the same time.
Btw, one of the schematics shows a horn circuit for a BX2660. I didn't know I had a horn; I see no place for one.
So, first looking for an easy, simple fix if there is one.
OK, I understand that...but I am not familiar with your tractors electrical setup.

So as mentioned above, you need to get a schematic diagram and see how the circuit is actually wired. If it is simply a number of single pole switches, you can simply eliminate whatever you want by shorting them out. I mean removing the wires and connecting them together. Some safety switches have two sides, so what to do to eliminate them requires more thought. It sounds like this my be your case.

Eliminating all the safety switches is certainly possible, but doing so may require more knowledge/experience than you have currently. AND is risky, and no one would recommend you do that, but what you do on your own is up to you.

It all boils down to knowing what you actually have, which a proper electrical diagram should tell you.

Unfortunately, if you are not comfortable with examining and understanding the electrical diagram, the answer will likely not be that simple.
 

GeoHorn

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Unplug all of them. Test each one. If it’s a normally open (NO) switch when you’re not on the tractor.... them jumper across it. If it’s a normally closed switch when you’re not on the tractor, leave it unplugged.
 
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ruger1980

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Quite honestly I don't think I would post on an internet forum how to delete a safety device
 
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Outdrz

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I would not disable them, but knowledge is power. Here is what you need to test them or otherwise:
That was an amazing answer! Pictures and all.... What document did that come from?

I think I need to find one covering an L3901
 

GeoHorn

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Quite honestly I don't think I would post on an internet forum how to delete a safety device
Really? Then I guess it’d be risky to post how to disassemble and reassemble brakes..... because if done improperly then someone might get hurt or sued for explaining the process...heh?

I guess it’s improper to tell how to perform CPR online also.... they might get it wrong and ..... Oh No! Woe is me! I told someone how it works and...it must be MY FAULT someone died! Or an owner chose to do something to their own property!

It’s not knowledge that’s risky..... it’s what you DO with it. Doh.
 
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whitetiger

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That was an amazing answer! Pictures and all.... What document did that come from?

I think I need to find one covering an L3901
That is from a Kubota Work Shop Manual
 

BobInSD

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Unplug all of them. Test each one. If it’s a normally open (NO) switch when you’re not on the tractor.... them jumper across it. If it’s a normally closed switch when you’re not on the tractor, leave it unplugged.
I've seen (road) vehicles where there is a resistance that is detected to stop such reverse engineering. I had to solder some resistors in to bypass one on my Dodge. Hopefully Kubota isn't there yet!
 

David M

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BX2660, FEL, MMM, rear blade, box blade, post hole digger (PHD.), 3 pt hitch hel
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north Alabama
I've seen (road) vehicles where there is a resistance that is detected to stop such reverse engineering. I had to solder some resistors in to bypass one on my Dodge. Hopefully Kubota isn't there yet!
Unfortunately, nearly all are buried so deep in the frame that you just can't get to them.
 

GreensvilleJay

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According to the wiring diagram from the manual....
...run a wire fromt the 'ST' terminal of the ign sw. to the 'S' terminal of the starter.
That will bypass both the PTO and HST safety switches and should allow starter to spin.
Providing you've got easy access to 'stuff', this could be a 10 minute-up and running deal.
certanly quicker than me typing how to do it...
 

DustyRusty

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I am a retired EMT, and a obsese person that I had to perform CPR on received a few broken ribs as a result. I mentioned this to the ER doctor, and the wife of the patient was close enough to hear this. She immediately commented that if he had broken ribs, that she was going to sue. The doctor turned to her and said "your husband is alive because what this medic had done, and should he experiance another episode requiring CPR, that under her threat of sueing, that he wouldn't perform CPR". She immediately started walking back her words. Never heard another word about it.