Got an old beater 7 x 14 twin axle single brake from a friend, not knowing yet what size tractor I was gonna buy. Sanded and ground on it and removed some deteriorated plywood sides his dad put on it, painted it black with rattle cans, and got it looking half way decent by the time I beat the dents out of the fenders. I didn't go quite as far as Andrew Camarata did. Started out looking at the BX's, but talked myself into the LX2610SU. The trailer has 1-1/2" angle rails, but at 7'wide (6'9" inside the rails), that shouldn't be an issue. His dad used to haul a bigger M series on it, as well as an old Ford 8N, and he's hauled his Grand L on it, so I know it'll handle the weight of the LX. I only gave $600 for it, so can't really expect it to be a show piece. I was looking for function, not pretty.
It has fold-down ramps (that I haven't sanded and painted yet), but no stabilizers on the ramps, meaning I'm a little concerned if I have to load the tractor on a slope. I'd like to add ramp stabilizers to keep it from lifting the back of my F-150 4x4 when loading, at least enough to keep all 4 feet on the truck firmly on the ground. What would be my best idea for getting measurements for the height of the stabilizers? Here's my plan, and if anyone can shoot holes in it, please do.
- Park the truck and trailer on my 'level' concrete driveway. (Rollaway risk mitigated)
- Chock wheels, obviously.
- Load the tractor on the trailer.
- Measure height of the ramp hinge pins from ground (concrete) level.
- Subtract 2" from that measurement to allow for trailer bounce, but not get stuck on the ramp stabilizers after loading.
- Cut angle and weld to ramps.
I've got to move two of the bosses for the ramp hinge pins in the rear because I think the ramps are going to be too far apart for the LX. I need to be able to slide the ramps in closer, but they have to come back out to the outside edges for the latches to hold them up. I have to replace one piece of angle that is twisted when I do that. His dad had a home-made single stabilizer in the middle, and forgot to raise it up one time. Didn't take long to realize the omission, but long enough to bend a 3" angle. He's had some pretty heavy equipment on this trailer.
I won't be hauling it very far or very often, but I prefer the trailer and anything on it be a unit when it starts rolling. I want it just as secure on my old beater trailer as it would be on a brand new one. I don't like moving bits on a trailer. That's guaranteed instability, even at low speeds. I won't be getting over 40 between here and the dealer, and cannot see myself getting out on the interstate with it for a very long time. Hoping to have a bigger/better trailer by then, and enough business to make that all pay for itself. Also hoping that it still fits if I change my mind again and add the BH77. Pretty sure I'll have to back it on because of departure angle if I add the hoe.
Anything I'm missing? Need to do this soon because I'm probably going to deliver the tractor to the dealer for it's 50H warranty service. I'm just under 40H now, and the weather is improving slightly. We didn't have a flood today. Time to get some real work done. Seems smarter to let the dealer do that service than wrestle with painted on filters, etc. Will probably remove the FEL for transporting for service, but need to also figure out loading technique with loader and my longest 3PH attachment as well. 14' is not a lot of trailer for the LX. I'm a little worried that the loaded rear wheels are gonna be a bit far back and cause tongue weight problems if I load it forward facing. I can probably put the front bucket up on the frame in front, though, and add some more hooks up there for binding it, which will let the tractor go forward a bit more.. Just have to be careful not to get close enough for the bucket to get my truck. Pretty sure that the front bucket has to be tied down separately in Alabama, especially if is SSQA. Will probably use ratchet straps for that, but already looking for bolt-on hooks for the frame. Does anyone use the draw-bar to chain the rear of the tractor
Still need to weld on some D-rings or hooks for chains/binders, too. The deck is pretty old, so I intend to go to the frame for my tie-downs. I'm figuring 5/16 - grade 80 chain and ratchet binders should be more than sufficient to hold the LX. AND I need to get a brake module for the truck. Fortunately it's already wired with a 7 pin connector and I have a plug-in harness for the in-cab wiring. All I need is the module. Any recommendations on that would be welcome as well. Doesn't have to be snazzy, just needs to help slow down the trailer.
www.harborfreight.com
www.orangetractortalks.com
