New to the site, and a diesel tractor. Changing oil on 50 hr service i over filled dramatically. Some how I got 3.3 gallons stuck in my head instead of 3.3 quarts,until there was oil all over garage floor. Drained out all of the oil, filled to correct level and cranked it to start, not good, sounded funny and eventually would barely turn over. Then I removed glow plugs and cranked it to get oil out of cylinders, which worked,oil went everywhere. Put it all back together and it fired right up. Seams to knock a little louder than before I screwed up and the #1 injector is bubbling at the port.It seams to runs fine although I havenÂ’t put it under a load yet. Did I do internal engine damage?
Over filled oil
- Thread starter Mudman
- Start date
It's possible with that much oil that it may have partially filled a cylinder and could have caused damage. At this point I would make sure there is no oil in the cylinders and then run it. In the future I would turn the flywheel over by hand to eliminate the chance of causing damage.
Did you do internal engine damage? It is possible. The simplest way I can think of to find out would be to run a compression test. If you had oil in the cylinders and the piston tried to compress it you could have possibly bent a rod. I'm not saying you did, I'm in no position to say. It's a possibility.
We have all been there one way or another. That is life.
It is concerning that you got substantial oil coming out of the cylinders after removing the glow plugs, which you did after having cranking issues.
There are many posts about engine damage caused by oil finding its way into cylinders after a tractor is tipped on its side and set back upright, and it is attempted to be started.
If I were a betting man(I am not) I would bet you bent a rod when you turned the engine over with oil in the cylinders.
Hope not! But the odds do not seem to be in your favor.
It is concerning that you got substantial oil coming out of the cylinders after removing the glow plugs, which you did after having cranking issues.
There are many posts about engine damage caused by oil finding its way into cylinders after a tractor is tipped on its side and set back upright, and it is attempted to be started.
If I were a betting man(I am not) I would bet you bent a rod when you turned the engine over with oil in the cylinders.
Hope not! But the odds do not seem to be in your favor.
I would get that leaky injector fixed first and then see if it knocks worse. I wonder if it really knocks worse or you are listening to it more, I know that could happen to me where I would be paranoid about it now. A leak injector could make it run rougher if it was not firing right and that is why I would start there. Good luck.
This is good advice. I know my vehicles always seem to run better after I change the oil and filter.
If I thought I might have damaged something I think the converse would be true as well.
Definitely listening to it more, a little depressed I may have damaged something that is supposed to make my life easier. I blew out around the injectors this morning with air gun, got it all real clean and fired it up, watched closely and there wasn't any bubbling around #1 injector, weird. Then cut 3+ acres and moved a couple yards of dirt and checked again, still very clean and no sign of leaking. Didnt seam to have any loss of power, I guess I really won't know till I start digging trenches with subsoiler next week. Ive ordered seals for all 3 injectors, i'll certainly be watching closely. Thank you all for your replies!
It happens to everyone in one way or another, don't sweat it.
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I've done just the opposite a couple of times. Put oil in, and find it on the ground because I did not install the plug!
If the tractor is running fine, I'd suggest not using those newly purchased seals just now. Store them for a later date. If they're not leaking, leave them alone.
If the tractor is running fine, I'd suggest not using those newly purchased seals just now. Store them for a later date. If they're not leaking, leave them alone.
I wouldn't expect the bubbling at the injector/head seal to continue once the cylinders were clear of oil, but that doesn't mean the copper seal is not still leaking. Once the copper seal leaks, it is not going to repair itself.
A simple test is to apply water or similar liquid around each injector while the engine is cool, start up and watch the suspect area. It will be very evident if there is injector leakage when the water gets blown away.
A compression or leak down test would go a long way in easing your mind if they prove to be within spec.
Wish you the best of luck with this situation.
Don't believe I've ever replaced a copper sealing washer on anything that used them unless it was really buggered up.
I anneal them and reuse them. Just like reloading cartridge brass and annealing the case mouths but in the case of the washers, I lay them on my wife's electric stove element, turn it on, let the element get red (and the washers) and then turn it off and let it cool. The washers are annealed and soft again.
I anneal them and reuse them. Just like reloading cartridge brass and annealing the case mouths but in the case of the washers, I lay them on my wife's electric stove element, turn it on, let the element get red (and the washers) and then turn it off and let it cool. The washers are annealed and soft again.
The instructions taught in aviation tech-schools is to heat them then drop them into cool water immediately. Allowing them to cool slowly allows them to harden again. (Aircraft spark plugs use flat copper sealing washers which are required to be either annealed or replaced with each inspection, typically every 100 hrs. Since my little single-engine airplane has 6 cyls, it’s got 12 plugs/washers.
I hang them onto a piece of wire and heat them with a torch, then tip the wire and let them slide off into a bucket of water.
This might seem counterintuitive but copper behaves differently than iron or steel in that regard. Quenching steel hardens it.... but copper work-hardens in use, then heating/quenching returns it to a soft condition.
Hope this helps.
I hang them onto a piece of wire and heat them with a torch, then tip the wire and let them slide off into a bucket of water.
This might seem counterintuitive but copper behaves differently than iron or steel in that regard. Quenching steel hardens it.... but copper work-hardens in use, then heating/quenching returns it to a soft condition.
Hope this helps.
Never knew spark plugs had copper washers, must be an airplane thing. I bet you have a few rolls of safety wire and one of those twist tools too...
Out of caution - I would do a compression test. If you have never done this before, it's a good opportunity to learn more about motors and your tractor. The tool shouldn't be that expensive (you don't need a pro-caliber Snap On version).
This type of thing happens to everyone. I remember when I was in high school I was changing the oil on my Ford Ranger and had a few mistakes. After putting the new oil filter on and filling it up with oil, I started it to find oil shooting out of the oil filter. I checked, and the old oil filter seal was still on the block! Lesson learned - always wipe the machined face of the block with a clean rag and brake cleaner before the new filter goes on to insure a clean gasket surface. Had I done that, then I would have found the old seal stuck on there.
To compound the issue, seeing the big puddle on the drive way, I added a bunch more oil - over filling the motor by a couple of quarts.
No one starts off as a master mechanic - you get there through mistakes and learning.
Keep us up to date - I'm sure you'll be OK.
This type of thing happens to everyone. I remember when I was in high school I was changing the oil on my Ford Ranger and had a few mistakes. After putting the new oil filter on and filling it up with oil, I started it to find oil shooting out of the oil filter. I checked, and the old oil filter seal was still on the block! Lesson learned - always wipe the machined face of the block with a clean rag and brake cleaner before the new filter goes on to insure a clean gasket surface. Had I done that, then I would have found the old seal stuck on there.
To compound the issue, seeing the big puddle on the drive way, I added a bunch more oil - over filling the motor by a couple of quarts.
No one starts off as a master mechanic - you get there through mistakes and learning.
Keep us up to date - I'm sure you'll be OK.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/championgasket07-03425.php
At $76 a box... you learn to ANNEAL !
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I know it sucks but it happens sometimes. The only oil related issue I have had happened when I was in my early 20's. I changed oil on a 766 International tractor and was in a rush to go fishing. I went out to cut hay right after changing oil and mowed for about a half hour when the tractor started bogging down bad, I looked the gauges over and no oil pressure so I shut it off at that point. I trailed the oil back and determine I had ran it for 2 minutes with no oil, I even found the drain plug. We got lucky and just had to drop the pan and replace rod/main bearings and ran it for years with no issues before we got rid of it.
I know with this pandemic everyone is upset but hard time are great teachers, my lesson learned was to put the wrench with the drain plug so I don't forget and your lesson learned is check the oil before you start it which I am thinking you didn't as you would have had oil coming out the dipstick tube.
I know with this pandemic everyone is upset but hard time are great teachers, my lesson learned was to put the wrench with the drain plug so I don't forget and your lesson learned is check the oil before you start it which I am thinking you didn't as you would have had oil coming out the dipstick tube.
You guys are great! Thanks for the advice, going for a compression tester later today. Couldn't find the specs what psi it should be, just 24:1 ratio, not quite sure what that means. Planning on removing everything in my way, air filter etc., pulling fuel line before it gets to pump, the fuel rail and then all 3 injectors/ nozzle holders, and screwing tester into the head. Crank and record results.
Im I missing anything? Never have done this before.
Im I missing anything? Never have done this before.
BigG
Well-known member
Equipment
l2501, FEL, BB, Rotary cutter, rake,spreader, roller, etc. New Holland TL80 A
I have not done this on a diesel but you do not need to do all that. You can use the opening for the glow plug. I am sure that some one will give you better help than me. I just did not want you to go thru the extra work of undoing the injectors etc.