Front Axel Oil Change on HST

[barncat]

I took my tractor in for the 200 hour maintenance but decided to do it myself for the 400. I read and reread the manual and being an engineer it is a good document, except it covers many variations of models and options and does not clarify between them clearly...I like a document to just state the obvious.

I took my shopping list of materials for filters, oil, lube, flush, and coolant to the local Kubota dealer and asked the parts guy for guidance. He seemed a little confused at first by making statements then changing his opinion. I figure it was so many models and he was just following the computer guidelines when he corrected himself. So, I drilled down on one question and did not get that comfortable feeling that he knew what he was saying.

The question is the front axel oil. He first said it needed to be replaced as a separate item then came back and said that it was part of the HST oil and would not need to be changed separately. It looks like a separate system to me.

On the L3200 HST 4WD do I change the front axel oil or is it part of the hydraulic oil change?

 

[GeoHorn]

Where there are no oxen, the manger is empty, but from the strength of an ox come abundant harvests.
Proverbs 14:3-5

What does this mean to you?

 

[barncat]

Ha. A clean barn is accomplishing nothing...there is a lot more to this but that is the basics.

 

[Cathy Liebchen]

It’s “axle”, it is separate from the HST system. We use gear oil but you can also use hydraulic fluid

 

[D2Cat]

What Cathy Liebchen said! The parts man may have gotten confused by the fact you can use the same HST oil in the front axle. So maybe he though they were interconnected. They are not the same cavity.

 

[Cglaza]

Yes, what they said. There are three drain points on your front axle. In the middle where your drive shaft comes in from the transmission and towards the bottom of the portals on each end of your axle. When you go to fill it up with the oil of your choosing, remove the vent plugs at the top of your portals in each side so that you can fill the axle properly, otherwise you could airlock them and the dipstick could read wrong. I also spin them when filling to help the air escape. Have fun.

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[Tornado]

I just did my 50 hour maintenace on my L2501 HST, which is very very similar to your L3200. As part of the maintenance I did the front axle as well, even though it wasnt called for yet.

The axle is 100% its own, separate system. Oil capacity is likely 4.8 quarts, much as my L2501. The confusion was likely, as others have said that you can use Kubota Super UDT2 hydraulic fluid as the oil. The other option is 80-90 gear oil. I spent a lot of time going back and forth on what oil to use, and could find no clear winner in all my reading between sudt2 or 80w-90 gear oild. They are very similar viscosity. I did read that SUDT2 works better in cold weather where freezing could be an issue. SUDT2 aparantely handles freeze/water issues better than gear oil. I ended up just using SUDT2 oil in my front axle, because I already had it on hand from doing the other maintenance items. All of kubota's Standard L series come with SUDT2 oil in the front axle from the factory. Im not sure if this was the case with the slightly older L3200 but I wouldnt be surprised.

recheck the front axle after you fill it and drive it around a little. the fluid level will drop a little as it works back into the gears and nook and crannies, so you'll probbaly have to top it up just a bit more after use. Its a super easy change to perform. It will take a while to drain the front axle though so be prepared to wait a good 30 or 40 minutes and just let it drip/drain. Use tin foil to help funnel the oil - it worked well for me and didnt get the oil all over the place. Good luck!

 

[barncat]

Thank you everyone, that is what I thought. I had to go back to the dealership to get a missing tiny o-ring for the fuel filter. I stoped by the maintenance department for a chat first thing. The mechanic I spoke with recommended I not change the front axle oil until 2000 hours, said it was not necessary in his opinion. I am under the impression that you guys like to follow the manufacturers recommendations. I did check the level and the oil is very clean and it is full. Any thoughts?

I noticed that my L3200 did not have the dual air filter as stated in the manual. The mechanic said that the L3200 only came with one. Again, that is very different from the manual.

Proud to say I have completed all the maintenance items except the front axle gear oil change and it was not difficult. Going to clean it up next and we are ready for another year.

 

[Tornado]

Thank you everyone, that is what I thought. I had to go back to the dealership to get a missing tiny o-ring for the fuel filter. I stoped by the maintenance department for a chat first thing. The mechanic I spoke with recommended I not change the front axle oil until 2000 hours, said it was not necessary in his opinion. I am under the impression that you guys like to follow the manufacturers recommendations. I did check the level and the oil is very clean and it is full. Any thoughts?

I noticed that my L3200 did not have the dual air filter as stated in the manual. The mechanic said that the L3200 only came with one. Again, that is very different from the manual.

Proud to say I have completed all the maintenance items except the front axle gear oil change and it was not difficult. Going to clean it up next and we are ready for another year.

The recommendation in the manual for my L2501 was to change front axle at like 800 hours. It is true that change the front axle oil as early as I did (50 hours) was completely uncalled for. I did it because I already had the oil on hand from doing my other maintenance and filter changes, and the oil was just going to sit in my garage and get old. I also did it because there is zero negative impact, and only a potential positive that can come from just doing it. The ONLY negative to changing front axle before its due is one of cost/money. If you are someone who is really tight right now, dont have a lot of money, then I would 100% skip the front axle and save the money. If you arent scraping for change to live however Id just do it. Especially at 200/400 hours if its never been done.

When I drained my oil it was 100% clean. I only saw a few little specks of debri come out, which looked like tiny paint chips to the naked eye. My front axle was a tad low however I learned. I have read this is common in new kubota's that the oil in the front axle will be a little low. If nothing else, I ensured that it is at the proper level now, and with fresh new oil. I also did this because it was the only fluid left on the tractor I hadnt got a chance to SEE. I spent a lot of money on this tractor. I wanted to do all these fluid changes and see the fluid, make sure it all looks good. What if for example I had done the front axle and saw lots of fragments come out and realized I had a problem. Very unlikely but- at least now i know, and all it cost me was a little time and a gallon of fluid. It was so painless I may change my front axle every time I service the tractor. I will already have the sudt2 fluid on hand, so why not? Its worth it to me to keep eyes on these fluids coming out of the tractor on regular intervals so yo uspot any problems, and if not, oh well, atleast you know its still good, and that it has properly filled clean oil.

 

[Jim L.]

The Operator's Manual for the L3200 is TC420-1971-2.

I noticed that my L3200 did not have the dual air filter as stated in the manual. The mechanic said that the L3200 only came with one. Again, that is very different from the manual.

I'm looking right at it and it is a dual air filter. They are mounted coaxially. The outer filter is the only one that should need cleaning or replacing.

As to front axle 4WD, Kubota says to replace case oil every 400 hours, 4.8 quarts. I'm sure there are many tractors that have never had this serviced. But on engineered systems things are calculated to meet warranty costs paid for by the manufacturer or warranty backer. Also safe to assume that the manufacturer also knows the shear forces and additive properties of the lubes.

As others have already pointed out, there is a choice of lube - either SUDT-2 or SAE80-90 gear oil. Subjectively the SUDT-2 is quieter.

Because I depend on my tractor, it gets front axle oil changes at 400 hours with SUDT-2. And I've learned the hard way to double-check everything from the counter-person before I leave their shop.

 

[SidecarFlip]

The Kubota factory fill is the latest version of UDT in the front axle but most people (including me use 80-90 gear oil. In fact Kubota calls that out as a suitable substitute.

FYI, I have 6drain points on each of my M9 front axles and 5 fill points.

 

[old and tired]

I've seen too many front axles leaking and I don't want to replace those seals!!! So I've changed that oil more than a few times. BTW, My manual said to change it at 50 hours!!! Mine was 2 quarts low, too. I would NOT let that go past 50 hours!!

80-90 is the only thing I will use.... FWIW

All the "standard" L's can use the 2nd air filter (they don't come with it). I've been changing the air filter often enough that I don't worry about it.

 

[barncat]

Great advice and you guy are right again. I went back to the shop for a new Hydraulic filter, the one they sold me had the magnet broken into 5 pieces. While there I questioned their air filter advice again and the owner confirmed he thinks the L3200 only came with one. However, they looked it for me and discovered that it was supposed two! I now have two installed.

 

[barncat]

The hydraulic level indictor has not changed from when it was drained until I charged the system with all 7 gallons...which is about a quart more than the manual calls for. I have no idea what to do about this or even if I'm looking at this indicator correctly.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I've seen too many front axles leaking and I don't want to replace those seals!!! So I've changed that oil more than a few times. BTW, My manual said to change it at 50 hours!!! Mine was 2 quarts low, too. I would NOT let that go past 50 hours!!

80-90 is the only thing I will use.... FWIW

All the "standard" L's can use the 2nd air filter (they don't come with it). I've been changing the air filter often enough that I don't worry about it.

I believe all later model Kubota's take 2 filters, the outer one and the blue inner one.

Don't know about your sight glass, I have dipsticks.

 

[Russell King]

Looks overfilled to me. Should be seeing the fluid line at the center. Drive it some, park on level ground and check again.


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[D2Cat]

Like Russell said, it looks overfilled. Should see some lighter color in the top half or so.

 

[old and tired]

So, the original version (my tractor) of the standard "L" had over-riding CAMS. Yes, a poor design and noisy when it kicks in. Kubota made a dip-stick conversion that added extra hydraulic fluid to submerge those CAMS in oil, a couple gallons (not really sure) just to submerge them into oil.

Point is, since kubota's recommendation to over fill the hydraulic reserve to "quite" the CAMS... going over (not seeing the air bubble) should not be a major problem. (just don't fill it completely!!!)

I've had mine over the sight glass for 9 years with no problem...

Suddenly, I feel the need to zip up my Flame Retardant suit.

 

[GeoHorn]

.....mechanic I spoke with recommended I not change the front axle oil until 2000 hours, said it was not necessary in his opinion.

ASk him to put that in writing...and see what he says.

I suggest you foolow the mfr’s recommendations.

 

[SidecarFlip]

"Originally Posted by barncat View Post
.....mechanic I spoke with recommended I not change the front axle oil until 2000 hours, said it was not necessary in his opinion.

You are a grown man (I presume) so you should know about opinions....

Follow your owners manual for the change interval.