M9000 trouble. A whole lot deeper then I ever thought.
- Thread starter AngleBlade1cc11
- Start date
AB, I’d like to just mention that searching for “cheaper” parts can come back to bite you... If you take your eggs to the restaurant and ask them to fry them for you, and they break the yolks... whose eggs are broken?
If the machine shop buys parts and provides labor and that engine breaks during warranty... the parts AND labor is THEIR problem. But if YOUR parts cause the problem you’ll be paying for everything twice-again.
Personally, unless that machine shop is someone you really know-and-trust, I’d exchange that engine with a rebuilder who has experience with Kubota engines and will warranty both parts and labor. Putting your engine back together for exchange-purposes isn’t a high-tech skill-set and shouldn’t cost an arm-and-a-leg. In fact, you are in a good bargaining position with them as they’ll get paid for labor without any further obligation on their part for ongoing risks. (I’ll bet the exchange-shop can offer guidance on how much “re-assembly” is NOT needed... as they will have to disassemble again for incoming-inspection.)
Don’t let this get you down. It’ll be a great tractor for you with a new engine for your due diligence. Keep us updated. (‘Cause unlike Flip, most of us LOVE our tractors.). :
If the machine shop buys parts and provides labor and that engine breaks during warranty... the parts AND labor is THEIR problem. But if YOUR parts cause the problem you’ll be paying for everything twice-again.
Personally, unless that machine shop is someone you really know-and-trust, I’d exchange that engine with a rebuilder who has experience with Kubota engines and will warranty both parts and labor. Putting your engine back together for exchange-purposes isn’t a high-tech skill-set and shouldn’t cost an arm-and-a-leg. In fact, you are in a good bargaining position with them as they’ll get paid for labor without any further obligation on their part for ongoing risks. (I’ll bet the exchange-shop can offer guidance on how much “re-assembly” is NOT needed... as they will have to disassemble again for incoming-inspection.)
Don’t let this get you down. It’ll be a great tractor for you with a new engine for your due diligence. Keep us updated. (‘Cause unlike Flip, most of us LOVE our tractors.). :
Wanted to reference another forum post that may be of value to the OP. Figured it might be against some rule or upset other members for doing so.
Come on George.... That is wonky.Machines don't return affection. Your wife your dog, maybe you cat can.... Your Kubota, no way...AB, I’d like to just mention that searching for “cheaper” parts can come back to bite you... If you take your eggs to the restaurant and ask them to fry them for you, and they break the yolks... whose eggs are broken?
If the machine shop buys parts and provides labor and that engine breaks during warranty... the parts AND labor is THEIR problem. But if YOUR parts cause the problem you’ll be paying for everything twice-again.
Personally, unless that machine shop is someone you really know-and-trust, I’d exchange that engine with a rebuilder who has experience with Kubota engines and will warranty both parts and labor. Putting your engine back together for exchange-purposes isn’t a high-tech skill-set and shouldn’t cost an arm-and-a-leg. In fact, you are in a good bargaining position with them as they’ll get paid for labor without any further obligation on their part for ongoing risks. (I’ll bet the exchange-shop can offer guidance on how much “re-assembly” is NOT needed... as they will have to disassemble again for incoming-inspection.)
Don’t let this get you down. It’ll be a great tractor for you with a new engine for your due diligence. Keep us updated. (‘Cause unlike Flip, most of us LOVE our tractors.). :
I’ve had dogs, cats, and a former wife who ran away/off with someone else. My Kubota is ALWAYS patiently/reliably waiting on me. If THAT’S not LOVE ....Come on George.... That is wonky.Machines don't return affection. Your wife your dog, maybe you cat can.... Your Kubota, no way...
I finally got my engine back from getting rebuilt. The motor itself looks great and even the pallet it showed up on was impressive. Very high quality. Engine is back in tractor and almost ready to start up. I have a few questions before I do so. The paperwork that came back with engine stats to use 10w-30 oil or what owners manual says to use which also says to use 10w-30. We have always used Rotelle 15w-40 in all of our equipment and trucks. Should I go with the 10w-30 or can I use 15w-40? I would like to stick with all the same oil for all equipment. Also what kind of filters are you guys running? Are you guys using OEM? I just seen a video on kubota filters vs NAPA filters and it was pretty shocking to see the difference. NAPA was about half the filter that kubota was. Has anyone used CAT filters on there kubota? If so do you have the cross number for filters? I can get CAT filters pretty easy from work.
You will want to use the recommended oil, Not T 5 or 6 because the break in oil must not be synthetic or semi synthetic because you want the rings and all bearing surfaces to 'seat in' on initial run it. Run it 50 hours or so and change all the filters and then go to the synthetic oil and use Kubota filters only. I never deviate from OEM filters. For one, the cost difference is inconsequential and Kubota filters are made to their specifications and they know best.
You just paid the big bucks for the rebuild, don't cheap out on filters and run what they recommend initially. They (whomever rebuilt it) know better than you do.
I made that mistake with another engine (new) in another piece of power equipment, thought I'd drain the initial fill right away and go synthetic and that engine has used oil since I did that.
You just paid the big bucks for the rebuild, don't cheap out on filters and run what they recommend initially. They (whomever rebuilt it) know better than you do.
I made that mistake with another engine (new) in another piece of power equipment, thought I'd drain the initial fill right away and go synthetic and that engine has used oil since I did that.
Hey guys my muffler is also cracked and looks to be full of soot. If I shake it things also rattle around inside. Should I put a new exhaust system on with the newly rebuilt engine? Messicks wants $800+ for the system. $500 for just the muffler. That’s freaking crazy. There is nothing to it. Anyone know of a replacement muffler? Maybe get a universal muffler and take to muffler shop and fabricate? I could always have a muffler shop bend me a piece of pipe to get me out of the hood and then put a muffler above hood. I don’t really want to do that but an option to save $100’s.
Answered you elsewhere and I don't want to type it again. I'm a terrible 2 finger typist .....
Not really but of it blows your dress up, all good with me.I’ve had dogs, cats, and a former wife who ran away/off with someone else. My Kubota is ALWAYS patiently/reliably waiting on me. If THAT’S not LOVE ....
Filters and fluid finally arrived. $650 later. Lol. Engine is in and seems to be running good. ***128077;***127995; Thanks everybody for the help.
Ok so she’s almost back together. I’m replacing a few hoses. I noticed the one radiator hose coming out of the bottom of radiator on drivers side that goes into the side of the block has a plug inside the hose and not allowing any coolant to flow through. Its a short piece of hose about 5” coming out of radiator and connecting to the hose that comes out of block. And in between the 2 hoses there is a plug? Why is this there? Should the coolant be circulating through this hose? Should I remove plug? Should I plug nipple coming out of block? I know when I got the engine back from rebuild they had a plug in the side of the block. I just assumed they had to plug it up so coolant didn’t come out during transport. So I had to order the nipple and stick it in.
So this hose I just asked about is possible Just a drain? And with that plug in between hoses gives you the option to drain either the block or radiator?
Don't think it's supposed to be plugged. I looked on Messicks parts for an M9000 and it shows a short hose from the block to an oil cooler under the oil filter and a single hose from the oil filter to the radiator. Suggest you use your exact model number and go to the parts list.
My L35 doesn't have an oil cooler and has a one piece hose from the block to the radiator. Excellent way to drain the cooling system.
My L35 doesn't have an oil cooler and has a one piece hose from the block to the radiator. Excellent way to drain the cooling system.
Didn't reply after reading your question because I have a question about your question and that is.. What is the drivers side? You sit in the middle of the tractor so what side are you referring to? If you meant the pump side right side, that hose is for the oil cooler base which on your engine sits proud of the block and the spin on oil filter mounts to it. I presume that is what you meant?
Ok my mistake, it’s the passenger side. Lol. Think outside the box. As your sitting in the tractor like a car, left side is driver and right side passenger. But I should have said pump side. Sorry The hose comes right out of the block left of the oil filter and runs to the bottom of radiator. If you look at Messicks under the A42000 WATER PIPE I’m referring to #080(joint,drain). In the picture it looks like it’s straight through but I assure you it’s a plug in the tractor. I’m thinking it’s a drain.
I have to disagree with you. Although wet(hyd) clutches normally have a longer life than dry clutches the wet clutch can & have been know to wear out/fail.
Not at 1700 hours unless there was intentional abuse. Both are extremely bulletproof but both will fail if continually abused.
Why I always run an over running external clutch on the PTO if the implement I'm running don't have one (example, bat wing chopper or rotary rake.
Kubota's are noted for weak internal PTO brakes. Especially M series. In fact Kubota has an upgrade kit available however it entails splitting the tractor to install and far as I know, none of the units would be under warranty. Easiest solution is an external over running clutch, which I use on both my M's.
The key is of course making sure the modulating valve is supplying sufficient lock up pressure and it's externally adjustable but you need the appropriate fitting and pressure gauge to set it. That value (lockup pressure) is listed in the WSM.
torch
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
Don't use thicker oil than is recommended -- especially in a turbo!
And personally, I wouldn't use aftermarket filters based solely on a cross-reference. I'd want the filter manufacturer to certify that their filter will work properly in that specific application. Kubota filters aren't that expensive anyway.