Rebuilding My Tree Damaged Kubota BX24

[B737]

Good freakin job Shelby. Man I would have had a shit fit when that bolt snapped. Nice recovery. You are really on the home stretch now.

While you have everything apart, I removed all the control rods, like the throttle, joystick, cruise control, sanded them, primed then painted them Kubota gray. Not sure how OCD you are

Nice work looking forward to whats ahead

 

[Shelby04861]

Good freakin job Shelby. Man I would have had a shit fit when that bolt snapped. Nice recovery. You are really on the home stretch now.



While you have everything apart, I removed all the control rods, like the throttle, joystick, cruise control, sanded them, primed then painted them Kubota gray. Not sure how OCD you are



Nice work looking forward to the home stretch here

I still have the floor pan, left and right center column, front tie rod, hst linkage tie rod, backhoe hose, and the list goes on. I will be painting some of the stuff like the front loader control arm. I have a lot of new knobs, decals for the lefts, new throttle lever and knob, etc. Plenty to keep me busy. I should mention that this is my very first tractor, but I am no stranger to turning a wrench.

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[B737]

Exact same for me too. And in that respect I almost find working on the tractor to be more therapeutic and enjoyable, cause it feels like “no pressure” kind of work. Unlike working on a classic car you don’t want to screw up lol

 

[D2Cat]

Based on your last picture, you're a competent young man!

My bit of advise would be, whenever working outside on machinery always begin with a large piece of cardboard underneath the project.

 

[Shelby04861]

Based on your last picture, you're a competent young man!



My bit of advise would be, whenever working outside on machinery always begin with a large piece of cardboard underneath the project.

Thanks! The little guy likes to help here and there to earn himself a bit of extra money for legos and stuff. I really should have had the cardboard honestly, and not just for the oil change. I plan to run the wiring for the ROPS tonight. Not sure if I want to run the wiring inside the ROPS bar, or zip tied to the outside. I also need to invest in some new drill bits to drill thr holes for mounting. It comes with 10ft of wiring, so hopefully that will be enough. Then I will be able to put the floor pan down. Had anyone here replaces their floor pan yet? I ask because the old one looks like the new one, but they also gave me one that they told me goes underneath the painted one??? I do t see that part in the diagrams at all. I'll take good photos later. I still need to see if one will fit right over the other.

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[jetattblue]

That's good work! I'm always amazed at how much trouble replacing such a simple plastic fan is. I replaced mine - as well as the boots, etc. - and it took me quite a long time.

 

[B737]

I plan to run the wiring for the ROPS tonight. Not sure if I want to run the wiring inside the ROPS bar, or zip tied to the outside.

Shelby, for rops lights, I installed a square weather proof electric box to the traffic triangle mount tab, installed the switches inside that, used weather glands, and ran the power up the bar on the outside, didnt want to drill such big holes into the bar, its ends up being a bit of wires if you start adding lights. The lights themselves i tapped hardware into the bar, they are only M6 bolts.

I powered the box from the AUX wiring that is tucked into the wiring loom on the back of your tractor, you'll find two unused bullet connectors. I plugged into those as the feed, they are switched to the ignition and on a 20amp circuit. If the rops ever has to come off, just unplug and all the wiring goes with it.

you can see the box in this photo. The water proof toggle switches are installed on its side. Reach behind to turn them on and off. I used 3m adhesive zip tie anchors for the wire loom.

 

[Shelby04861]

Shelby, for rops lights, I installed a square weather proof electric box to the traffic triangle mount tab, installed the switches inside that, used weather glands, and ran the power up the bar on the outside, didnt want to drill such big holes into the bar, its ends up being a bit of wires if you start adding lights. The lights themselves i tapped hardware into the bar, they are only M6 bolts.

I powered the box from the AUX wiring that is tucked into the wiring loom on the back of your tractor, you'll find two unused bullet connectors. I plugged into those as the feed, they are switched to the ignition and on a 20amp circuit. If the rops ever has to come off, just unplug and all the wiring goes with it.

you can see the box in this photo. The water proof toggle switches are installed on its side. Reach behind to turn them on and off. I used 3m adhesive zip tie anchors for the wire loom.

I like how you installed your lights for sure, but you have a lot more going on that I do. There is a 2nd set of plugs on my harness if I ever add rear lights. Well, last night I started putting the grab handles and decals on the fender pan. The nut inserts came out of the plastic and wont stay in on the one handle I didnt replace yet. Any thoughts on the best way to fix this, before buying a new one. I was thinking abouttl trying to find some new inserts somewhere 1st. I also ran the wiring to the back at this time as suggested. I will have my simple rocker switch on the dash. I mocked up where the lights will be, but I need to buy a new drill bit to match my tap to bolt it on. I am still torn on whether to run the wire inside or outside. I think the inside will provide for a cleaner install. I went with a simple rocker switch that would look like it came on the dash factory. I also zip tied a bunch of wires back from after pulling the engine. Managed to lay the new double floor pan setup down. It is really starting to look like a tractor again! Also, I included a photo of the 2 piece floor pan. I just put them both down because the dealer said so. Doesnt mean they are right, but it will be stronger at least.

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[B737]

awesome.

i didnt know the double layer deck was a thing, maybe just for backhoe version? that looks really solid.

when i removed my plastic grab handles the nuts set into the plastic spun on each set as well. I ended up cutting them off and just replacing, i think they are around $30. Its frustrating when they cast hardware into plastic like that. When i reinstalled I used some anti-seize in hopes they come out easier in the future.

the dash switch set up will look very clean and nice.

 

[Shelby04861]

awesome.

i didnt know the double layer deck was a thing, maybe just for backhoe version? that looks really solid.

when i removed my plastic grab handles the nuts set into the plastic spun on each set as well. I ended up cutting them off and just replacing, i think they are around $30. Its frustrating when they cast hardware into plastic like that. When i reinstalled I used some anti-seize in hopes they come out easier in the future.

the dash switch set up will look very clean and nice.

I am thinking I might fill both holes of the grab handle in with plastic weld and drill a new hole. Then I can use a good screw and washer to hold it in place. It is mostly for show as I dont see myself using them too often. If the handle breaks again, then I will replace it. Most if the time I figure my hands will be on the wheel or on controls. More to come on this part I guess.

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[Pepsiboy]

Shelby0461,

Nice job on the rebuild. I only have 1 question for you about it if you know the answer. Will the METAL fender pan for your BX24 fit on my BX2350D ? If it will, just being nosey, what was the cost?

Dave

 

[Shelby04861]

Shelby0461,



Nice job on the rebuild. I only have 1 question for you about it if you know the answer. Will the METAL fender pan for your BX24 fit on my BX2350D ? If it will, just being nosey, what was the cost?

edit: it appears the part numbers are the same

Dave

I will check the parts website tonight for the part number. Either way, it was 94 bucks I think for the two piece setup.

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[Shelby04861]

Didnt have a lot of time tonight to work on the tractor, but I was able to drill and tap threads for the bolts in the ROPS. I didnt like the idea of straps, and since I had the right tap to a couple bolts, it made sense.I also put the new air filter screen and frame in place to hide all of the mess. ,

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[Shelby04861]

A few more items checked off the list. Bolted the floor pan dow and the floor mat. Put a few more parts back on the center console area until the new left and right cast pieces arrive. Only have a handful more parts left to install like the backhoe line, the hst link tied rod, and the passenger side front tie rod as well. Also, I dont want anyone to be jealous, so all you haters can move on. I FIGURED OUT HOW TO ROTATE THE SEAT MYSELF!!!! It was stuck, but a little force made it move. I guess this is not an obvious thing to do

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[B737]

its getting more shiny!

 

[michigander]

Bottom picture above

More than excellent job for your age figured adult was doing this project

Digging in sandbox yes that might be overkill

 

[Shelby04861]

Bottom picture above

More than excellent job for your age figured adult was doing this project

Digging in sandbox yes that might be overkill

They both seem to enjoy using the backhoe actually. We had to dig some rocks out of the yard that the mower hit. They tend to steal my shovel and dig big holes way out in the back hard for all the tonka type digging toys.

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[Shelby04861]

its getting more shiny!

It is a lot cleaner than before! I was thinking of picking up this stuff called Dakota Shine, or a similar product, to bring back the original color on the front bucket and the backhoe. I know that it would be dinged, but the sun fade wouldn't be as bad is all

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[Pepsiboy]

I will check the parts website tonight for the part number. Either way, it was 94 bucks I think for the two piece setup.

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Shelby0461,

I think you may have misunderstood my request. I was asking about the FENDER pan, not the 2 piece floor pan.

Thanks, again.

Dave

 

[Shelby04861]

Shelby0461,



I think you may have misunderstood my request. I was asking about the FENDER pan, not the 2 piece floor pan.



Thanks, again.



Dave

I did misunderstand you. Sorry about that. That was a replacement for my plastic one. Because of the number of complaints, they went with metal, and all decals are included. That ran me $493 from the dealer. You cab get them online for a about $486 I think, but the shipping is about $130. When checking part numbers, I dont think they are the same unfortunately.

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