Agree. But when there is so much grease oozing out that it's dripping on floor pads, fenders, mounts, getting all over everything, you have to watch where you put your hands, feet, butt, knees, elbows, etc., that's beyond "lubed"."Now back to your regular scheduled programs....." That is a humorous comment there....
Reminded me of when I got the M9 new back in 2004. Paid top buck because it was special order with special options. Had to come from Japan so I waited almost 4 months for it and it gets delivered and almost immediately I pop the seal on a lift cylinder plus one of the saddle tanks has a bad weld and the bung is drizzling diesel fuel on the ground and it won't develop adequate oil pressure so it shuts down all by itself. Call my dealer (not upset just want just want it right fr 50 grand).
Came out and got it the next day, brought a loaner unit along. New front cover on the engine (the oil pump and spool valves for controlling engine oil pressure are in the front cover), new fuel tank on the right side (bad weld on the bung) and a new lift cylinder. had the tractor 3 weeks. at my dealer who by the way also farms.
Never been an issue since then as far as any failure related to faulty components. Tractors, big or little are complex machines assembled by humans (for the most part) so things happen. When I look at a tractor (just bought another used M9), I look for grease oozing from greaseable joints. Tells me the previous owner actually maintained it.
In reality, the cheapest consumable item you'll ever consume on any tractor or implement is grease.
BX23s and dealer - Underwhelming
- Thread starter losttrail61
- Start date
I'm glad to hear everything got worked out. Can't wait to see some pictures of you using your new toy. Also hopefully you don't think we're a bunch of critics!
All is well. We all have our own opinions and standards that we expect to be met. I have pretty thick skin.
Grew up with standards of how to care for equipment, Army taught me a few things on how a crew should care for 70 ton tracked beasts and how to not fail an inspection.
We all have pretty much the same goals, just follow some different paths to get there.
shiraz627
Member
Equipment
BX23S Piranha toothbar, Underarmor, PFL1242 pallet forks, BXpanded thumb, ripper
I made a mistake last week of trying to power wash off all the excess from last year. Made a bigger mess than before. Better to just wipe the excess by hand.
I know that story well. Good grease don't power wash off, it smears and makes a bigger mess. How you tell if the grease is good. If it washes off, it's junk.
Now Skeets you're late to the party. The OP expressed his frustration, got enough flack, explained his timing and other problems occurring, got back with the dealer....and all if fine. No need to provoke any further negative comments.
Just tell Losttrail you appreciate his service and let it be.
Just tell Losttrail you appreciate his service and let it be.
Ironic.. When I bought my used M9 last Thursday it was from a green dealer and interestingly, he had quite a few orange tractors on the lot. None I was interested in but the M9 however. They were all very late model tractors.
I guess you missed the part about the FEL manifold leaking fluid all over the driveway after only having 2.4 hours of run time. I believe new tractors are not supposed to do that. Maybe not even old tractors. Just my opinion though.
I looked at and test a little Green, 1025R to be exact. Let's just say that IMHO, little Greens are not the same build quality as big Greens.
I get my joy of running big Greens in the summer when I head up to one of my brothers' ranch outside Billings and we put up hay. We're talking thousands of acres of hay, both his own and other ranchers he contracts with. The big 1,500# round bales.
If I were in the market for a big tractor, chances are good it would be Green, but I was not impressed with my experience on a little Green.
Thanks for the input and have a great week.
Honestly I agree. I grew up working on a dairy farm and the big greens are just at a different level. The dealers also don't seem to be very friendly if you're not spending 100k.
shootem604
Member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L245DT with Kubota (Arps Model 22) FEL and Kubota B/L4520B (Woods 650) BH
I had to use a degreaser spray before power washing. I needed to repaint my FEL arms properly after the repairs I did last year; at the time I primered just the exposed metal to keep it from rusting, but now I am doing the whole works with 'old' Kubota orange.I know that story well. Good grease don't power wash off, it smears and makes a bigger mess. How you tell if the grease is good. If it washes off, it's junk.
I live in "Realville" so I expected I would need some touch up paint when I took delivery of the B2601 last December. I saw the young guy at the dealership working on assembling it on the concrete floor when I went to pay for it. It comes in an open sided crate all knocked down. They installed the backhoe and FEL and I knew those heavy parts would be grinding on the floor. The wheels/tires, ROPS go on and the rotating seat base was installed in place of the straight forward one. The delivery man asked me if I wanted to go through the check list and operating instructions, but it was 20 something that cold morning so I declined and told him "I'll figure it out."
I backed it in the workshop and closed the over head door. Checked all the fluid levels, perfect. I looked at all the silly "don't do this, don't do that" stickers all over it and got out my heat gun to peel them off. Then I got greased whenever I walked by it so I got the paper towels and Q tips on it and by the time I finished that, more than half a day was gone. I spent the rest of that day and about all of the next one touching up paint chips, gouges and scratches. I also sprayed under the floor where there was no orange paint, only primer.
I will be selling this after I get all the projects done around my place and can't justify owning it any more, so I want to preserve all the metal I can to keep it from rusting. It will be kept indoors. I wanted to buy a used one but when I saw the resale value I decided to bite the bullet and get a new one after waiting for it for six weeks.
The only issue I found was a hydraulic line needed tightened on the backhoe swing cylinder, after 7 hours and I lost about 1.5 quarts of fluid. Other than that, no drips so far. And there is one grease nipple I can't get the gun on under the right FEL arm. I'll have to move the line a little bit.
I don't have anything bad to say about my local dealer (22 miles away). They have been around for quite a few years and have three locations within 100 miles.
I backed it in the workshop and closed the over head door. Checked all the fluid levels, perfect. I looked at all the silly "don't do this, don't do that" stickers all over it and got out my heat gun to peel them off. Then I got greased whenever I walked by it so I got the paper towels and Q tips on it and by the time I finished that, more than half a day was gone. I spent the rest of that day and about all of the next one touching up paint chips, gouges and scratches. I also sprayed under the floor where there was no orange paint, only primer.
I will be selling this after I get all the projects done around my place and can't justify owning it any more, so I want to preserve all the metal I can to keep it from rusting. It will be kept indoors. I wanted to buy a used one but when I saw the resale value I decided to bite the bullet and get a new one after waiting for it for six weeks.
The only issue I found was a hydraulic line needed tightened on the backhoe swing cylinder, after 7 hours and I lost about 1.5 quarts of fluid. Other than that, no drips so far. And there is one grease nipple I can't get the gun on under the right FEL arm. I'll have to move the line a little bit.
I don't have anything bad to say about my local dealer (22 miles away). They have been around for quite a few years and have three locations within 100 miles.
Left this alone for a few days but feel it's fair to update on the status.
Just received BX23S back from dealer. They picked it up Monday afternoon about 5:30pm.
They cleaned it up very nicely. Black oil/dirt grime is gone from top side of mower deck spindles and all hydraulic lines I can see. They were all covered in grime. Black, caked on grease in BH pin zerks is gone. Big globs, streaks, drippings of grease are now gone from all the FEL and BH pivots. I can actually see the zerk on the bottom pivot pin now, it's not buried under 1/2" of grime. No more piles of gravel on top of the mower deck.
They were not able to find the FEL manifold leak. They thought maybe I had not released the pressure before disconnecting the FEL manifold. Problem with that theory is that I NEVER disconnected the FEL or manifold. Once I explained that, they replaced the QA base on the tractor. That's what looked like it was leaking to me anyway.
So far, all is well, looking forward to doing some digging this weekend!
Just received BX23S back from dealer. They picked it up Monday afternoon about 5:30pm.
They cleaned it up very nicely. Black oil/dirt grime is gone from top side of mower deck spindles and all hydraulic lines I can see. They were all covered in grime. Black, caked on grease in BH pin zerks is gone. Big globs, streaks, drippings of grease are now gone from all the FEL and BH pivots. I can actually see the zerk on the bottom pivot pin now, it's not buried under 1/2" of grime. No more piles of gravel on top of the mower deck.
They were not able to find the FEL manifold leak. They thought maybe I had not released the pressure before disconnecting the FEL manifold. Problem with that theory is that I NEVER disconnected the FEL or manifold. Once I explained that, they replaced the QA base on the tractor. That's what looked like it was leaking to me anyway.
So far, all is well, looking forward to doing some digging this weekend!
Yep. You’ll go crazy worrying about grease blobs. Even when I take Paul Short’s advice and go light on the grease, it still oozes out when using the machine. I did put lock’n’lube caps on my zerks in an attempt to spend less time cleaning the fittings when it comes time to grease again... and it’s probably time again. On that note, I told my buddy that grew up farming that greasing is due every 10 hours. He laughed and said Kubota is out of their mind. He would have been greasing every...single...day.
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Just FYI, The “factory black stuff” is what is specified as “new grease”. It’s Kubota Moly-Lithium and it’s very black. I’m actually confused by what appears to be some red grease in those joints. Kubota grease used to be orange, but hasn’t been for at least 3 years. Maybe some left over in the dealer’s shop, but I kind of doubt it...
Oh, and all my grease joints look like your pics. I found it makes a bigger mess to wipe it off. And I’m worried about spraying degreaser around an area that’s supposed to be greased.
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Appreciate your input, but I didn't post all the pics here. I grew up on a ranch, greasing equipment nearly every day due to use. I understand that the black is factory and red is what dealers are using.
But when it's greased to the point that the black is a glob that has dropped off onto another part of the tractor and the red is getting ready to, there are smears on fenders, floor board, dash, steering wheel, seat, tires, hoses, sprayed out from under the spindle covers on the MMM so that grease splatters are all over the TOP of the MMM, it's excessive.
When the DEALER sees the pics and says, "Oh wow, that should have never left our lot looking like that. Our policy is to have all the major grease gone and have it washed.", there is an issue.
When a new tractor, with less than 3 hours, is delivered with a hydraulic leak that is caked with the typical dirt/fluid grime on all the lines of the FEL manifold, there is a problem. When I park a new tractor, with less than 3 hours, on our concrete driveway, come back in 2 hours and there is a puddle beneath the FEL manifold 6"8" in diameter, there is a problem. Park it in a new spot, let it sit overnight and there is a spot under the FEL manifold 10"-12" in diameter, there is a problem.
I understand this is a working piece of equipment and it's going to get dirty, scuffed, scratched, maybe even dented over time.
My point was, the DEALER specified a company policy, the OWNER of the company made a point on the very first day I even contemplated buying a tractor, about their delivery policy, how they differentiated themselves from their competitors around here by their attention to detail and service, then that fell through.
I also admitted that I overreacted due to a bunch of other issues going on at the time and this being the proverbial last straw. I apologized to the dealer, expressed my regret for how I handled it initially. They have stepped up, made it right and apparently have a BH thumb on order at no charge as a gesture of good will.
Sorry I posted anything differing from the apparent norm and accepted view. I have learned a valuable lesson about this forum. Thank you.
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dirtydeed
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
That's what I was getting at. Both of my kubota purchases (from 2 different dealers) required me to go over their checklist with them at their shop prior to delivery. They usually take that time to go over any equipment questions as well. All of your issues would have been handled then and there. I just assumed that every Kubota dealer did that as well.
Anyway, get out and use it. It'll put that smile back on your face.
I know this sounds gross but what I do is when I get a wad of grease built up around a joint like on the loader, I take my finger and run it around the joint and gather the excess grease (like snot on my finger) and then flip it off in the grass......
I rarely greas every 10 hours because I farm (hay) so I'm out there working the tractors and implements. They might get greased every few days but that is it. Every once in a while, I'll relieve the load on the loader pins and slide them to make sure they move freely, that tells me the joints aren't dry.
I use Lubrication Engineers Teflon based Hi-Tack grease. It's red and costs $1500 bucks for a 150 pound open head drum. 150 pounds usually lasts me about 4 years greasing everything including the pickup truck and cars.
I rarely greas every 10 hours because I farm (hay) so I'm out there working the tractors and implements. They might get greased every few days but that is it. Every once in a while, I'll relieve the load on the loader pins and slide them to make sure they move freely, that tells me the joints aren't dry.
I use Lubrication Engineers Teflon based Hi-Tack grease. It's red and costs $1500 bucks for a 150 pound open head drum. 150 pounds usually lasts me about 4 years greasing everything including the pickup truck and cars.
Most construction companies and the farm I grew up working on down the street greases the machines every morning. The construction company my buddy owns requires his employees to grease his equipment every morning. He also pays workers an extra half hour if they power wash the machine every day after a job completion. Having decently clean machinery improves their image. Both the farm and my buddy's construction company realizes that greasing every day drastically improves the longevity of their equipment.
85Hokie
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
I did the same exact thing......I did get a lot of grease off....but I did make a mess too. The high pressure water hits a glob and that glob breaks into 5 other globs and now it is everywhere! Even if I aim to make it go somewhere else
I need to easy off the trigger....