Mower Decisions

[Clover13]

Ok, so I'm on my final evaluation before buying a mower for the upcoming season...I've been debating this for way too long. I have 5 acres of land, for which I bought the B2650 ROPS to do the work and it's been excellent from gravel driveway maintenance to woods clearing...shame we didn't get enough snow to have some fun with it then too!

I only have 3/4 acre of actual lawn to manage and it's very flat with few tree obstacles. The previous owner was a professional landscaper, so it is a very well kept lawn with full irrigation. I've had landscapers cut it since I bought the place, but want to take it over because they're NASCAR drivers on their ZTs and tear up the lawn every time they turn.

The question is: Do I go with the B2650 72" MMM or do I go with a separate riding mower or ZT (maybe smaller)?

The main concern is the weight of the B2650 of weekly cutting (even with the FEL removed). If I pull the trigger on the 72" MMM and find it's too heavy or does too much damage then I'm kinda stuck. Maybe dealer would take a trade in but I'd probably be taking a bath? The 72" also feels a bit overkill for 3/4 acre, it'll be quick for sure though. I've already checked all the tree distances and and no obstacles at 72". The only consideration would be overlap with the gravel driveway and narrower sections of grass where I'll be half on grass and half on gravel but since it's flat, should be OK.

I do plan on using the B2650 to FEL some mulch to beds, maybe aerate, etc once a year and did take a spin on the lawn with the FEL (empty) and a box blade (475lbs or so) as a test run. The only impressions I saw were in a mulch bed when I was reaching over one to remove a small pine tree with the Piranha toothbar. However, the lawn is pretty firm and dry from late winter. Come late spring through summer with daily irrigation it'll likely be quite a bit softer. I could simply schedule the irrigation though so I can cut after a day of drying to let it firm up a bit.

My gut is telling me the 72" MMM is overkill for 3/4, and of course has the downside of having to remove the MMM any time I want to do woods work, but really I could save the woods work for the off season (late fall - early spring). The plus side is the 72" MMM will work with the B2650 and be REALLY fast but at a $3200+ cost. The huge risk/downside is, if I pull the trigger and it jacks up the lawn then I'm stuck with repairing the lawn, selling the MMM, and buying a different mower. The "safe" bet feels like getting a smaller/lighter mower and keeping my B2650 work limited on the lawn.

I do know a number of members here are cutting their lawns with the B2650 + MMM. And many are cutting with their BX + MMM, which is probably around 400-500lbs lighter combo (without FEL attached)? Maybe I'm overthinking it a bit (again)?

 

[Sparky73]

I may regret writing this but I was in exactly the same situation and I decided to go with a dedicated lawn machine. My lawn does have a sloped section so I decided against a ZT mower and picked up a JD X350 with a 48" mulching deck. I love it and it does an amazing job on our lawn. Never have to worry about it being too wet and I definitely use it at times when my B2650 with R4's would tear up the lawn.

 

[Alderman]

While it’s not landscape quality, I mow my lawn with a lawn tractor and 48” deck. Just last week I got a BX 1870 that came with a 48” mmm. I’ve got ag tires on the 1870 and I can see where they chew things up pretty good in the wood lot. I don’t think turf tires would work well in the woodlot so I’m going to stick with the lawn tractor for mowing, at least when it’s still damp.
Personally I would rather take a little more time with a smaller deck that would fit everywhere than a wider one.
You can probably find a decent used lawn tractor for the price of a larger mower deck.


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[Dunbar]

We were shopping tractors at the same time and I got a rotary cutter with my L2501 on R4's but the conventional wisdom was to wait and buy used on a finish mower. Lots of folks buy a finish mower then wind up getting a zero turn mower and sell their finish mower. I picked up my Land Pride FDR1660 for $600 and spent $250 fixing it like new. Brand new it cost more than my RCR1860 rotary cutter.

I would see if driving your tractor on the lawn in all conditions would damage it with your current set up. If you can drive around when its moist but need mowing without tearing it up, go ahead and get a mower deck or 3pt mower second hand for much less money than new.

 

[PaulL]

The ground compression of a B isn't much different than a BX - yes a heavier tractor, but also much bigger footprint - larger diameter tyres, particularly if you run them low pressure.

The bigger question is what sort of tyres you have. Ag tyres will make a mess on a damp lawn. If R4, then maybe. If turf then the B should be fine. Given you're doing woods work, I very much doubt you have turfs, and I doubt you want to buy a separate set of rims and tyres to swap them over for mowing.

I'm a big fan of one machine to do everything, and in particular being able to put more hours on my Kubota tractor, which I love driving. But I think it would be too much hassle to set the machine up for both woods and mowing, and realistically that'd make you less happy, not happier, because of all the hassle switching back and forth. Get a standalone.

 

[dirtydeed]

ZTR (50-60 inch). You'd be finished mowing in 30 mins. You'll be kicking yourself if you add a deck to the B2650 for 3/4 acres of grass.

 

[SRG]

I've got a 72" ZT on 5 acres and I mow about 3-1/2 of it. 3/4 acre with a 72" deck, i'd be done in about 20 minutes, and only have to fuel up every 8-10 cuts. I'd probably opt for a 54"-60/61" zero turn. If the yard is as nice as you say it is, I don't think I'd be driving my B2650 on it very often, atleast not as often as it would take to cut it, and keep it looking that good.

A 72" deck is absolutely awesome for large flat runs of grass. If you have hills and ridges you mow over, like cresting a ditch or hill, or uneven terrain, you will be more prone to scalping, then if you had a 54" or 60/61". I deal with this every time I mow, but it doesn't bother me much. I don't keep a 'Better Homes & Gardens' type lawn, I just keep it cut.

If I did opt for a deck for my tractor, I'd go for a rear mount finish mower, simply for the ease of removal and installation. Plus they can be found pretty cheap used, and there's usually a handful of 60" and 72" RFM's on Craigslist.

 

[groomerbuck]

I have an extremely nice lawn as well which is not exactly flat. I mow with my b2650 once or twice a week with zero issues with turf damage. And to be completely honest, my cut quality is as good if not better then a zero turn. I do only have a 60” mmm and turf tires for the b2650, but could not be happier. The only thing a zero turn would do for me is shave some time off.

 

[Clover13]

Great feedback all! I can't edit my original post, but I wanted to add I do have turf tires on my B2650. I am in sandy soil, and most of the dirt/woods work is sand and pines. And for snow, they say the turf tires perform better. And there was the goal of using the B2650 to mow with, hence the turf tires for the lawn (which is still applicable for doing mulch, etc).

I see there are varying opinions, which makes sense. Everyone has a preference. So I guess this boils down to cost and time.

Time is one reason I've avoided the simpler riding mower, because I don't want to be there cutting for 1-2 hours a week. So it seems like it's between the MMM and a ZT. Both the MMM and ZT would fly through the property and I'd be done cutting quickly. Maybe 45 min to an hour total with trimming. And as groomerbuck experiences, many have said the B2650 MMMs finish cut very nicely, which is what had me leaning that way for quite some time. I was leaning towards the 72" over the 60" mainly to extend past the wheels and reach out more.

B2650 MMM Pros:

• Same machine for everything
• Costs less than a ZT

B2650 MMM Cons:

• Heavier machine, potential lawn damage, unknown until I actually try it (which requires purchasing the MMM)
• Resale of MMM is likely low or trader dealer in for a significant loss if I find I can't use it
• Small hassle of having to remove the MMM to do non-lawn work, and the FEL+BB/rear implement to do lawn work. This would likely lead to just leaving the MMM on for cutting season and avoiding doing other work unless necessary. FEL and rear implements are quick attach/hitch, so it's pretty quick. And removing the mower should only take a few minutes.

ZT Pros:

• Lighter machine, know it won't damage the lawn
• Faster cutting than the MMM (or at least certainly not slower)

ZT Cons:

• A separate machine to maintain
• Costs more than the MMM

With all that highlighted, what ZT mowers do you guys like for 3/4 acre to cut as fast or faster than the B2650 with 72" MMM? Figure I can start researching them and pricing and see how much more of an investment it is.

 

[dirtydeed]

I'm confident that you can find a reasonably priced ZT for about the same cost as the Kubota mower deck. For 3/4 acres of grass, you won't need a commercial quality mower.

I have two ZT mowers. One is a little 50 inch cub cadet (RZT) as in residential version. It was left here when I purchased the property. Cuts fast, is very light weight and has been bulletproof. I have wet ground here that is quite bumpy with tree roots etc. that sometime I get ZT's stuck.

I also have a 60" bad boy (Tractor supply version) that I got for under 5K. Very heavy gauge deck with lots of power. It's a much more comfortable ride than the little cub.

Anyway, the point I was trying to make was that I used to mow my older place (2 acres of very nice grass) with a BX23. I had a 60 inch deck on it. It provided a great cut, but dropping the loader and slapping the deck on got old. Since I was using the machine for a part time landscaping business at the time, the deck swap was 2x/week and a waste of time. Remember, you'll be storing a mower deck anyway.

Best of luck.

 

[dalola]

Spend a little more, get a mid-size commercial ZTR, and thank me later!

Even a smaller deck ZTR will mow circles around your CUT/MMM, and do a much better quality job.

If you're skeptical, have a few dealers come out and demo this spring on your lawn. That otta seal the deal.

Exmark, Hustler, & Ferris are all quality brands with good commercial machines, along with your usual players Kubota, JD, etc..

 

[PaulL]

With turfs I'd totally go with the B2650.

The way I'd make this decision (and you can do these in any order):

1. Try taking the deck on and off - maybe in the shop, or if you know somebody with one. It's a drive over deck, the only thing I find hard about taking the deck on and off my BX is pulling out the deck - driveover fixes that. But you need to know whether you find it hard/annoying, not some random guy on the internet.

2. Drive your B2650 around on the lawn when it's damp, and see if it's chewing it up in a way that annoys you. If it's not, it won't with the deck on either, it's not that much more weight.

3. Take the loader on and off a couple times, make sure that's not too annoying for you

4. Buy the deck. One machine is much better than two.

On my BX I take the loader off when I mow. It really doesn't take long, and I probably only put the loader back on one week in three or four, if I'm doing something that needs it. I also only take the mower off if I need clearance, so I probably take it off once every 2 months in summer. It's really not that big a deal. One machine to store, one machine to maintain. And I like driving my tractor, if I had a mowing machine the tractor would get driven one week in three or four, and I'd feel less happy about how much I was using it.

The deck on the 2650 is very solidly made, it'll last 20 years. It's a good investment.

 

[Clover13]

With turfs I'd totally go with the B2650.

The way I'd make this decision (and you can do these in any order):

1. Try taking the deck on and off - maybe in the shop, or if you know somebody with one. It's a drive over deck, the only thing I find hard about taking the deck on and off my BX is pulling out the deck - driveover fixes that. But you need to know whether you find it hard/annoying, not some random guy on the internet.

2. Drive your B2650 around on the lawn when it's damp, and see if it's chewing it up in a way that annoys you. If it's not, it won't with the deck on either, it's not that much more weight.

3. Take the loader on and off a couple times, make sure that's not too annoying for you

4. Buy the deck. One machine is much better than two.

On my BX I take the loader off when I mow. It really doesn't take long, and I probably only put the loader back on one week in three or four, if I'm doing something that needs it. I also only take the mower off if I need clearance, so I probably take it off once every 2 months in summer. It's really not that big a deal. One machine to store, one machine to maintain. And I like driving my tractor, if I had a mowing machine the tractor would get driven one week in three or four, and I'd feel less happy about how much I was using it.

The deck on the 2650 is very solidly made, it'll last 20 years. It's a good investment.

All very good points. I'm thinking about doing my mulching in the next couple weeks to just see how the lawn handles driving the tractor around. It'll be significantly more weight as I'll have the FEL + 60" bucket + mulch and I'm guessing if I'm doing FEL work I should leave my box blade on for counterweight (475 lbs or so). If the lawn takes all that weight without much issue, then removing all that and adding a mower is probably a good 600lbs+ lighter (box blade and 72MMM are about an even swap) and it takes the weight off the front narrower tires which are certainly going to be the main issue if there is one.

I'm going to wait for a post rain event to give the tractor a test run on the wet lawn to see how it reacts as you had mentioned. I do feel like the rear tires will distribute the weight pretty well, so it's just about keeping the weight off the front which is doable by removing the FEL for mowing but obviously an issue when moving mulch around (adding even more weight up front). So I'll have to try to time that in early spring before I fire up the irrigation and take advantage of drier/firmer conditions.

I definitely agree on the feeling of not getting enough use out of the B2650 if I go the ZT direction. A big part of why I chose it over the L was to be lighter and more nimble for lawn/landscape work.

I'll see how things shake out the next couple weeks. Thanks again for the feedback all!

 

[Missouribound]

You can find a lawn tractor at WaMart that will cut that 3/4 acre just fine......
for $1000.
A zero turn would be fun but it's overkill.
And if your tractor doesn't have turf tires it would destroy that finely manicured lawn. A dedicated machine would be the way to go, in my opinion. I actually have a Cub Cadet with a 50" deck for my 3-3.5 acre lawn.
I have considered a zero-turn but my yard is too bumpy and zero-turns tend to be a little rough unless the yard is in nice shape, like yours.
If you have other chores to do, such as pulling a small lawn cart, a conventional tractor may be better than a zero-turn. I use the Cub and the cart a lot in the spring and fall for cleanup. Between fallen branches, leaves and trimming it works just fine. HOWEVER I do have a 60" 3 point mower for my Kubota. But unless the ground is absolutely dry it tends to tear up the yard so I use the Cub in the spring until the ground has dried out.
You won't need much to cut a 3/4 acre.

 

[rkidd]

I have an extremely nice lawn as well which is not exactly flat. I mow with my b2650 once or twice a week with zero issues with turf damage. And to be completely honest, my cut quality is as good if not better then a zero turn. I do only have a 60” mmm and turf tires for the b2650, but could not be happier. The only thing a zero turn would do for me is shave some time off.

I have the same experience as groomerbuck. I have a really nice flat yard that I mow with my B2650 and 60"mmm. It mows extremely well, golf course quality for sure. I have turfs also and doesnt mark the yard even in the wet spring. I can have the loader or mmm off or on in a couple minutes no problem to do whatever chores I need to do. Very happy with my choice. I also like having one machine to do everything I need. I enjoy running my tractor!!

 

[Muzzy]

If you do not have a lot of trees I suggest a 60" RFM.
Easy On, Easy Off, Easier Service, Cleaning and Maintaining.
Also, Less dust when cutting, can back into areas and can be used with other tractors.

 

[Clover13]

You can find a lawn tractor at WaMart that will cut that 3/4 acre just fine......
for $1000.
A zero turn would be fun but it's overkill.
And if your tractor doesn't have turf tires it would destroy that finely manicured lawn. A dedicated machine would be the way to go, in my opinion. I actually have a Cub Cadet with a 50" deck for my 3-3.5 acre lawn.
I have considered a zero-turn but my yard is too bumpy and zero-turns tend to be a little rough unless the yard is in nice shape, like yours.
If you have other chores to do, such as pulling a small lawn cart, a conventional tractor may be better than a zero-turn. I use the Cub and the cart a lot in the spring and fall for cleanup. Between fallen branches, leaves and trimming it works just fine. HOWEVER I do have a 60" 3 point mower for my Kubota. But unless the ground is absolutely dry it tends to tear up the yard so I use the Cub in the spring until the ground has dried out.
You won't need much to cut a 3/4 acre.

I do have turfs, so that's a plus. Agree I don't need much for the 3/4 acres but I also don't want to spend much time doing it

One point you brought up is towing a cart. I get a barrage of small sticks, leaves, and acorns from the oaks in my yard, so I was planning on getting a lawn sweeper. The B2650 drawbar is low enough to tote one of those around, so that would work fine I think.

For sure though, I could go cheaper and get a small lawn tractor, used even, and give it a try this season. If it is just too slow then I can sell it and upgrade, certainly an option.

 

[Clover13]

I have the same experience as groomerbuck. I have a really nice flat yard that I mow with my B2650 and 60"mmm. It mows extremely well, golf course quality for sure. I have turfs also and doesnt mark the yard even in the wet spring. I can have the loader or mmm off or on in a couple minutes no problem to do whatever chores I need to do. Very happy with my choice. I also like having one machine to do everything I need. I enjoy running my tractor!! View attachment 41658

View attachment 41659

Dang, that IS golf course quality! Where's the pin at?
Very nice!

Were you the guy who leveled his lawn with a grader? That is pancake flat. Mine has some lower spots, not much but enough that I see them haha. I'm trying to figure out how to level it back out. Maybe regular top dressing of topsoil/sand mix? Any suggestions?

Also any reason you went 60 over the 72?

 

[Clover13]

If you do not have a lot of trees I suggest a 60" RFM.
Easy On, Easy Off, Easier Service, Cleaning and Maintaining.
Also, Less dust when cutting, can back into areas and can be used with other tractors.

The RFM is tempting because of that ease of use. Easy to connect/disconnect like you said. My trees are big oaks and some taller pines in the yard with mulchbeds, so no need to "get under" anything. Just open lawn, edges of mulch beds, and edges of a deck. I'll watch some more videos on the RFM but the last one I saw on Messicks had me lean towards the MMM since it's easier to watch along side versus behind you when going alongside things.

 

[Missouribound]

towards the MMM since it's easier to watch along side versus behind you when going alongside things.

That is true. When I can I use my 3 point for the majority of the acreage. I have a 3 step plan I use which obviously isn't for everyone.
Step 1. I load up the weed eater into the cart and go around the yard and home trimming. I used to walk it but let's face it I'm not getting any younger.
Step 2. After trimming I use the Cub to get around obstacles and buildings and some of the ledge rock. (I'm in the Ozarks)
Step 3. After all the trimming is done I use the 3 point to finish. I can move quite fast in the open areas.

Again I can't really use the tractor until the ground is dry. A few inches of top soil over ledge rock doesn't want to stay in place with a 1500# tractor turning on it unless conditions are good.

Honestly, if my yard was smooth as yours I wouldn't have bought the 3 point mower. I would have just kept using the Cub. The larger turf tires on my B2320 makes the cutting much easier on my back.