Greasing All the points on a BX - what do you use?

JeepinMaxx

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BX2660, LA243 FEL, RCK54P-23BX MMM, BX2751 QH Subframe, BX2750D 50" Blower
Mar 27, 2018
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Columbia, CT
After seeing this post here

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40106

I greased all the fittings I could find today (had the tractor for almost a year now and 100+ hours now! I know I'm a bad owner...)

All I had around was the Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease I use on my Jeep



I used it because I had it on hand and the red color let me know when all the old stuff was pushed out. Going forward - is there something better for tractor use?

BTW - my new 10,000 PSI grease gun with the Lock-n-Lube fitting worked like a boss!

 

GeoHorn

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Any grease is better than no grease.... just don't mix greases!

Bearings and chassis normally work well with lithium or with synthetic general purpose. Pins, bushings, and other sliding things work best with grease which contains molybdenum disulfide (usually abbreviated as "Moly").

Moly is very low friction and adheres well to sliding surfaces and is especially well suited for highly-loaded surfaces like FEL pins, etc.

I use Moly grease on my FEL pins and PTO shafts but lithium chassis grease on almost everything else using zerks (grease fittings).
 

Muzzy

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I use the Kubota High-Performance Polyurea Multi-Purpose Grease, does the job, unfortunately it's not orange..
 

85Hokie

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Used that Red-n-tacky by Lucas for years - recently switched to amsoil - Synthetic Polymeric Off-Road Grease, NLGI #2. Both do a great job.

As for switching between - not a problem in the world - matter fact, it is nice to see another type ooze out to see if the old is being pushed out.:p

My problem is a probably waste too much! I can't wait till warmer weather so I can power wash most of my excess off!:eek:
 

thedevilyoulove

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L3901 HST with LA525 FEL, Land Pride RCF2572, pallet forks, 3 pt carry all
Jan 27, 2016
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What is the best way to grease the zerks on a PTO shaft? It is a real pain to grease the shaft on my rotary cutter. I am tempted to try the lock n lube but it is stupid expensive (like everything else tractor related :rolleyes:)
 

85Hokie

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What is the best way to grease the zerks on a PTO shaft? It is a real pain to grease the shaft on my rotary cutter. I am tempted to try the lock n lube but it is stupid expensive (like everything else tractor related :rolleyes:)
you'll find that the lock-n-lube is worth the price ......trust me, gonna go out on a limb....no one that has one will say it WAS NOT worth the money.:p:)

The time it takes to grease 30+ zerks on a BX25d.....can be done in 1/5 the time with the LNL
 

thedevilyoulove

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you'll find that the lock-n-lube is worth the price ......trust me, gonna go out on a limb....no one that has one will say it WAS NOT worth the money.:p:)

The time it takes to grease 30+ zerks on a BX25d.....can be done in 1/5 the time with the LNL
Well that is quite an endorsement. I guess I have to give a LNL a whirl, now!
 

85Hokie

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Well that is quite an endorsement. I guess I have to give a LNL a whirl, now!
Get cha a powered luber while spending that cash!:p

Like a battery operated or pneumatic operated one - those toys are expensive too, but dayum - it makes greasing almost fun!:p
 

shiraz627

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I bought a lock n lube, not real crazy about it. Sometime I find it hard to get it on some of the fittings. Just my 2 cents.
 
Last edited:

SidecarFlip

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Get cha a powered luber while spending that cash!:p

Like a battery operated or pneumatic operated one - those toys are expensive too, but dayum - it makes greasing almost fun!:p
My powerluber has a 100 foot hose and sits on a 150 pound drum of Lubrication Engineers teflon based synthetic grease. Last time I bought a drum it was just shy of 1500 bucks. 150 pounds usually lasts me about 5 years or so.
 

Russell King

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What is the best way to grease the zerks on a PTO shaft? It is a real pain to grease the shaft on my rotary cutter. I am tempted to try the lock n lube but it is stupid expensive (like everything else tractor related :rolleyes:)

Generally speaking it is easier to lube the joints if the shaft is off the implement or at least the implement is not on the tractor.

Then figure out how to loosen the plastic shield from the pto shaft so you can pull it toward the middle of the shaft and out of the way. Then locate the zerk and rotate the shaft so it is in a convenient location. Repeat at other end. Sometimes it helps to angle the pto joint by moving the shaft over to one side.

Also some of the plastic shields have a large hole to grease through. And it may help to install 45 degree zerk or 90 degree zerk in place of straight ones.


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JeepinMaxx

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BX2660, LA243 FEL, RCK54P-23BX MMM, BX2751 QH Subframe, BX2750D 50" Blower
Mar 27, 2018
296
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Columbia, CT
Thanks for all the input! Looks like I should have used a grease with Molyebdenum Disulfide in it. I'll blow out the Mobil 1 with the proper moly lube next weekend (should only have a couple hours of snow removal until then)
 

lugbolt

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Lock-n-lube is nice, but only when it fits in where you're trying to get it into. It's quite a bit bigger than a standard coupler, and for me, it only works about 60% of the time, then spend 5 minutes swapping the coupler to do the rest of them. No bueno. It sits in the tool box most of the time, and a standard short coupler usually stays on the gun.

For the gun, I use a Husky pnuematic, drilled the exhaust hole out to 1/4". Shoots the grease into the fittings QUICK. Makes greasing an excavator from a 30 minute ordeal to a 5 min ordeal. Really nice. Lincoln has one that's MUCH better than the Husky, but also about $70 more (at least when I bought mine, about 15 years go).

Grease? There's different kinds of grease for different applications. Deck bearings? They take bearing grease. Unfortunately, I have to keep 2 grease guns on hand and full at all times. Mower deck bearings last a LONG time with the proper bearing grease. Multi-purpose grease isn't quite the right stuff, although better than no grease at all. It becomes really important on the decks that have the gearbox mounted directly to the center spindle assembly. Only one bearing supporting that long shaft, and when that bearing dies...usually the gearbox is right behind it, and it's entirely possible to have to fork out up to $2000 if you have to pay someone to install it. That reminds me, I need to go get the deck off of my G1900 and service it out for the upcoming mowing season.
 

eserv

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May 27, 2009
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When you are lubing up that BX don't forget to grease the HST pedal pivot. It is under a little flap in the floormat. The only grease fitting on the tractor itself and pretty important.
 

Kubota BX 1860

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Jun 23, 2011
82
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Type of grease is nowhere near as important as frequency. I have LNL and agree with others, works slick when it can get on the fitting...others, such as u/joints are a little more problematic. I keep it on my air grease gun, do the tough ones w/hand gun.
 

rokhunter

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BX23S TLB
Dec 28, 2018
90
2
6
Baker, Florida, United States
I've got a BX23S that I just greased for the first time too, but had ONE fitting (center pivot point for the backhoe) that refused to take grease. Pulled the zerk fitting out and replaced it with a new one, with the exact same results. Anyone have an idea of what to try next?

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shootem604

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Pivot the backhoe to a couple different positions, and try to grease in those positions?
 

rokhunter

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BX23S TLB
Dec 28, 2018
90
2
6
Baker, Florida, United States
Pivot the backhoe to a couple different positions, and try to grease in those positions?
Tried that. Fully extended through fully stowed. My next plan is to remove the zerk and try to remove every drop of grease from the opening to see if it's somehow clogged, but failing that it'll be a call to the dealer if there's not an idea from this group!

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