Hydraulic cylinder leak repair, unknown make

[motionclone]

Got what appears to be an oddball sized cylinder on an oddball, unknown maker backhoe attachment (was told Woods but not so sure)

One outrigger leaks real bad, leaves a puddle so I want to fix it for cheap. The backhoe itself is not in great shape so dont want to spend much on the unit

How do I buy a seal kit for unknown maker? Take it apart and take measurements?

Cant find a replacement cylinder even close to the specs I need. 17-3/4 closed, 29 1/2" open, pin to pin centers. pins and rod diam are different than whats availible too.

Whats my options?

 

[Yooper]

A friend with a lathe can shorten a longer cylinder with some basic machining. If you do not have such a friend, a machine shop or hydraulic shop can do it. Look for a cylinder that matches up with the old one as far as diameter and mounting type. Also pay attention to the rod diameter. Just make sure it is long enough to cut down to the size you want.

Surplus Center is where I would begin my search. They have a good selection to choose from and the prices are reasonable.

 

[D2Cat]

Take the cylinder apart and take to a hyd. repair shop. They can measure and get the correct components. They can even assemble them on your ram for you, if you like.

 

[motionclone]

Take the cylinder apart and take to a hyd. repair shop. They can measure and get the correct components. They can even assemble them on your ram for you, if you like.

See I called 1 local shop and they said, nah not interested so i went to look on the internet for a replacement cylinder but mine had some odd specs , all would require fab work to make work. So I thought a rebuild kit or new seals inside would fix the problem.

Is there an online source for seals that are sold by their dimension? like I take mine apart and measure the seals.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Think you need to call more than one shop...You won't be able to cabbage up any kit and not have it leak.

 

[D2Cat]

Motionclone, You're correct a rebuilt kit, or new seals with fix the problem. You just have to get the correct components. I agree with Flip, go to a different hyd. shop and try again!!!

 

[sagor]

See I called 1 local shop and they said, nah not interested so i went to look on the internet for a replacement cylinder but mine had some odd specs , all would require fab work to make work. So I thought a rebuild kit or new seals inside would fix the problem.

When I had to re-pack a leaky cylinder, I went to a couple of hydraulic shops who were not too interested in a "small job". However, I asked them if they knew anyone who did this work. Found one shop where a guy would do it in his spare time, between big jobs. Sure, it cost a bit more than doing it myself (well, 2 hours labor cost...), but I know it was done professionally and pressure tested up to 3000psi. Had to wait 2 weeks for it to get done as well...
No more leaks. Overall, it cost less than 1/2 the price of a new cylinder from Kubota.

Just keep asking around to find someone who will do it. Cash is best....

 

[motionclone]

So I called around and found no hydraulic shops, within 50 miles anyway, that wanted to bother with my repair. But I did find a company that said I could measure my bore, rod diam and bring in the seals and they should be able to find or order some based on that. So I guess ill take it apart and go that route.

 

[SidecarFlip]

That works too. Better make sure the bore isn't scored or it will leak anyway and the end packing (in the gland nut) is tight as well.

 

[motionclone]

That works too. Better make sure the bore isn't scored or it will leak anyway and the end packing (in the gland nut) is tight as well.

Ive worked on and rebuilt lots of things but I havent been into a hydraulic cylinder before . Ill have to take a pic of it so I can get some advice on disassembly because mine has a little tab on top where the rod goes in and I havent seen one on the internet like it before. Check back an Ill hopefully be able to post a pic tomorrow.

 

[D2Cat]

Here's a picture of one method used to secure the end cap. It has two holes and you need to unthread that end. I made a tool to easily turn. Some would use a pipe wrench. Some use a punch to get it to turn. It's easiest to get the end cap off with the other end of the cylinder still attached to the tractor so it doesn't move.

 

[Lil Foot]

mine has a little tab on top where the rod goes in

Like the pic? If so, you have a circular retainer type- the wire (clip) is pulled out while you rotate the end cap to assist you. The vid shows the general procedure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubpt4ihNGGQ

 

[Lil Foot]

While we are on the subject, here is a wrench I made for the end caps for the cylinders on my B670 Backhoe.

 

[motionclone]

This is what im dealing with, its got some holes on the face of the cap and one of those holes has a small bolt holding a tab. Other cylinders on this rig are the same.

Also if anyone knows what make this backhoe is would be great to fill me in. It has an extendable dipper.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Far as removing gland nuts and end caps, an adjustable pin spanner (from MSC) is one tool fits all. I think Harbor Freight has them as well.

Someone welded in the fitting on the cylinder and did a horrible job as well. I wonder what that is all about.

Gotta love backyard cobble jobs...lol

 

[D2Cat]

Motionclone, I'm not familiar with that cylinder cap, but I'd guess the bolt holding the metal angle piece is a lock to keep the cap from turning. When the metal bracket is removed you may find two hole opposite each other. Those would be where you insert the spanner wrench and turn counter clockwise to unthread the cap.

 

[motionclone]

Motionclone, I'm not familiar with that cylinder cap, but I'd guess the bolt holding the metal angle piece is a lock to keep the cap from turning. When the metal bracket is removed you may find two hole opposite each other. Those would be where you insert the spanner wrench and turn counter clockwise to unthread the cap.

OK, Yeah im going to tear into it sometime this weekend hopefully and ill update

 

[motionclone]

Far as removing gland nuts and end caps, an adjustable pin spanner (from MSC) is one tool fits all. I think Harbor Freight has them as well.

Someone welded in the fitting on the cylinder and did a horrible job as well. I wonder what that is all about.

Gotta love backyard cobble jobs...lol

This whole rig is cobbled up. I drove 4hrs to get it and when i got there I discovered all these undisclosed issues like super loose pins on bucket, lots of welding around pin bosses, slightly bend rams, 2 leaks, one major... I would have gone home if I didnt already have time and fuel invested in it so I lowballed him and took it home for cheap. It does dig and move rocks though and thats what i wanted it for.

 

[SidecarFlip]

This whole rig is cobbled up. I drove 4hrs to get it and when i got there I discovered all these undisclosed issues like super loose pins on bucket, lots of welding around pin bosses, slightly bend rams, 2 leaks, one major... I would have gone home if I didnt already have time and fuel invested in it so I lowballed him and took it home for cheap. It does dig and move rocks though and thats what i wanted it for.

Loose pins are easy (so long as they aren't frozen (which requires heat and beating them out. A bar of 660CA oil impregnated bronze and some simple turning, boring and sawing will eliminate any and all slop.

I've done a few hoes before but mostly big ones. Getting the big ones apart is a chore.

 

[Lil Foot]

Never seen that little 'L" clip before- I'm guessing the end cap screws out with a pin spanner and the clip is just there as a lock to keep the cap from unscrewing?